Elephant's eleminate

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Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic
Peewee

Trad climber
Quebec
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 1, 2005 - 12:46pm PT

I'm looking for beta on Elephant's Eleminate. Any body has photos of the route?

I'm also looking for beta/photos on Hang dog flyer and Phoenix.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 1, 2005 - 08:12pm PT
Not exactly beta, but a brief account of an attempt on Elephant's Eliminate by some good climbers:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=50437#msg51167

This is about midway through a somewhat long thread. To read the entire thread on Owl Roof, see:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=50437
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 1, 2005 - 08:18pm PT
Thank's Clint, I didn't want to get into that one again.
PeeWee email me if you want but just go for it. Invert, sittup, armbar. Take it from me, though I couldn't do it the time I tried.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 1, 2005 - 09:12pm PT
Wear a long sleeved shirt for the Owl--you gotta reach way up into the roof crack for rattler fists, then swim over the lip, legs first. A world class thrasher.

Phoenix--practice 1 inch jams for a decade or make fifty laps without stopping on Cramming and Vanishing Point.

Never done EE. I remember Yabo saying he lybacked the thing. Might be true. Might not . . .

JL
WBraun

climber
Feb 1, 2005 - 09:31pm PT
"I remember Yabo saying he lybacked the thing. Might be true. Might not . . . "

Never
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 1, 2005 - 11:19pm PT
My bad, Warner. I was confusing Elephant's Eliminate with Sky, which is on Elephant Rock.

Elephant Eliminate--Mark Chapman and I rapped that route and slugged in a bong at the lip and never went back to even try it. Ray J. did, and apparently got it, though you never quite knew what "got it" actually meant with Ray, though I'm sure he did the thing. Ain't nobody lybacking that one. But I gotta believe if it were over by Swan Slab it would have been done stacks of times by now.

JL
WBraun

climber
Feb 1, 2005 - 11:26pm PT
John

Uhmmmm....wow, .... ok, good.

So that finally explains that mysterious bong at the lip. I always thought Ray placed it.
Leroy

climber
Mar 2, 2005 - 07:56am PT
Bad memory Jay.Piggot told me he thought it was impossible.Wolfie too.Maybe piggot went back.When are we going back?I think itll go.
clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Mar 2, 2005 - 02:51pm PT
Hey where is this route??????
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 2, 2005 - 05:33pm PT
Elroy, we'll go back when I get fit again, whew, dodged a bullet.
Seriously, it will definetly go. But it's harder than it looks, I'm still trying tp remember the rack that Peewee asked about.
.... Can't be sure but I thought Rick went back and did it (that's what cilley told me, so it must be true =) ); my training plan is to keep my present weight, but grow a half a foot taller so I can do it like he, may, have.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Feb 22, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
from
http://unfinishade.typepad.com/climbing/2011/01/my-dear-friend.html
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 22, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
Lemme see if I still have a pic from afar, hold on a sec. Forgive the quickie photoshop, I gots no skillz.

Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Feb 22, 2011 - 10:16pm PT
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Feb 22, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
Sweet photos you all . . . tell us more.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 22, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
thanks Bullwinkle!
I've heard that Dean gone went and done it... sweet to see an image, very nice accomplishment...

any other of you lurker monkeys been up there? obviously no one's going to say... but good on all of you!
WBraun

climber
Feb 22, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
Me, coz and Wolfgang went there.

Wolfy took one look at it and ran away. LOL

Wolfy thought it was going to be off-width. LOL again.

I got to that fuking lip twice and went limp.

Wolfy should have tried since he's superman.

Coz fuked it up by not going out feet first when you get to thin part.

So much for this thing sitting around up there.

Ya all need to get your asses in gear and send this thing.

Dean did it because he's god .....
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:14am PT
So Werner, what you are saying is, Elephants Eliminate needs a mortal ascent.

It looks quite a bit more appropriate to truly get risky and climb at your maximum compared to Owl. Higgins and I on Owl in 1971---we thought it was really marginal as far as being an actual climb what with the 45 degree apron right underneath: if you fall, it's right onto the low angle slab upside down and even at the lip, the apron is only about ten feet below you. More reminiscent of a building climb or some boulder problems, actually.
nature

climber
Hampi Karnataka India
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:16am PT
perhaps she can help?
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:16am PT
Elcapinyoazz, i think that thing is calling to you.
Z
WBraun

climber
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:23am PT
Mortal ascent?

Maybe not. Dean told me he rested out at the lip by the invert method.

I was so stupid I hung out by my arms out there and it didn't occur to me to invert and work my legs and feet up first.

Still the the thing is a real bad boy especially when you get to the lip.

But all these modern climbing supermen now a days, should all be able to cruise it?

No?
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 23, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
Cool post. We were just talking about this climb tonight.

Prod.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 24, 2011 - 12:33am PT
I can see it now, the Willeminate ascent!
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 24, 2011 - 12:35am PT
Jaybro,

You Gonna make the Grugfest?

Prod.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 5, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
bump
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Nov 6, 2012 - 12:33am PT
Guessing this nearby erratic sees little traffic too.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 30, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
There is a cool photo of it on Ray Jardine's site:
http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/Climbing/index.htm
(see bottom of Page 2)
Aaron Stireman

climber
Siege tactics
Oct 1, 2013 - 01:54am PT
Hey everyone,
I like to do more reading than posting on this site, but this is a route that I don't see mentioned too often, if at all. And I've been working on it for some time. I would really like to work on this route with someone else that is as psyched on it as I am. I train for wide climbing 6 days a week and have all the new toys, 6s, bros, vgs, chockstones, you name it. Valley is about a 4 hour drive for me, Ill make it a priority.

thanks
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 1, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Aaron,
This climb doesn't involve any special gear -
it's a hand and fist crack through a roof.
Ray Jardine probably didn't use anything larger than a #4 Friend
when he did it in 1978.
You can probably train for it at home -
just build a model of the lip out of wood and train on it,
until you can do the "situp from hell".
There's an old tradition of training on models of climbs,
like when Henry Barber built a model of Foops in his basement.
Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic
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