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Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
Peewee
Trad climber
Quebec
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 1, 2005 - 12:46pm PT
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I'm looking for beta on Elephant's Eleminate. Any body has photos of the route?
I'm also looking for beta/photos on Hang dog flyer and Phoenix.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Thank's Clint, I didn't want to get into that one again.
PeeWee email me if you want but just go for it. Invert, sittup, armbar. Take it from me, though I couldn't do it the time I tried.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Wear a long sleeved shirt for the Owl--you gotta reach way up into the roof crack for rattler fists, then swim over the lip, legs first. A world class thrasher.
Phoenix--practice 1 inch jams for a decade or make fifty laps without stopping on Cramming and Vanishing Point.
Never done EE. I remember Yabo saying he lybacked the thing. Might be true. Might not . . .
JL
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WBraun
climber
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"I remember Yabo saying he lybacked the thing. Might be true. Might not . . . "
Never
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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My bad, Warner. I was confusing Elephant's Eliminate with Sky, which is on Elephant Rock.
Elephant Eliminate--Mark Chapman and I rapped that route and slugged in a bong at the lip and never went back to even try it. Ray J. did, and apparently got it, though you never quite knew what "got it" actually meant with Ray, though I'm sure he did the thing. Ain't nobody lybacking that one. But I gotta believe if it were over by Swan Slab it would have been done stacks of times by now.
JL
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WBraun
climber
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John
Uhmmmm....wow, .... ok, good.
So that finally explains that mysterious bong at the lip. I always thought Ray placed it.
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Leroy
climber
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Bad memory Jay.Piggot told me he thought it was impossible.Wolfie too.Maybe piggot went back.When are we going back?I think itll go.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Hey where is this route??????
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Elroy, we'll go back when I get fit again, whew, dodged a bullet.
Seriously, it will definetly go. But it's harder than it looks, I'm still trying tp remember the rack that Peewee asked about.
.... Can't be sure but I thought Rick went back and did it (that's what cilley told me, so it must be true =) ); my training plan is to keep my present weight, but grow a half a foot taller so I can do it like he, may, have.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 22, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
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Lemme see if I still have a pic from afar, hold on a sec. Forgive the quickie photoshop, I gots no skillz.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Feb 22, 2011 - 10:16pm PT
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 22, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
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Sweet photos you all . . . tell us more.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 22, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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thanks Bullwinkle!
I've heard that Dean gone went and done it... sweet to see an image, very nice accomplishment...
any other of you lurker monkeys been up there? obviously no one's going to say... but good on all of you!
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 22, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
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Me, coz and Wolfgang went there.
Wolfy took one look at it and ran away. LOL
Wolfy thought it was going to be off-width. LOL again.
I got to that fuking lip twice and went limp.
Wolfy should have tried since he's superman.
Coz fuked it up by not going out feet first when you get to thin part.
So much for this thing sitting around up there.
Ya all need to get your asses in gear and send this thing.
Dean did it because he's god .....
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:14am PT
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So Werner, what you are saying is, Elephants Eliminate needs a mortal ascent.
It looks quite a bit more appropriate to truly get risky and climb at your maximum compared to Owl. Higgins and I on Owl in 1971---we thought it was really marginal as far as being an actual climb what with the 45 degree apron right underneath: if you fall, it's right onto the low angle slab upside down and even at the lip, the apron is only about ten feet below you. More reminiscent of a building climb or some boulder problems, actually.
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nature
climber
Hampi Karnataka India
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:16am PT
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perhaps she can help?
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:16am PT
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Elcapinyoazz, i think that thing is calling to you.
Z
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:23am PT
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Mortal ascent?
Maybe not. Dean told me he rested out at the lip by the invert method.
I was so stupid I hung out by my arms out there and it didn't occur to me to invert and work my legs and feet up first.
Still the the thing is a real bad boy especially when you get to the lip.
But all these modern climbing supermen now a days, should all be able to cruise it?
No?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 23, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
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Cool post. We were just talking about this climb tonight.
Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 24, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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I can see it now, the Willeminate ascent!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 24, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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Jaybro,
You Gonna make the Grugfest?
Prod.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Guessing this nearby erratic sees little traffic too.
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Aaron Stireman
climber
Siege tactics
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Hey everyone,
I like to do more reading than posting on this site, but this is a route that I don't see mentioned too often, if at all. And I've been working on it for some time. I would really like to work on this route with someone else that is as psyched on it as I am. I train for wide climbing 6 days a week and have all the new toys, 6s, bros, vgs, chockstones, you name it. Valley is about a 4 hour drive for me, Ill make it a priority.
thanks
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aaron,
This climb doesn't involve any special gear -
it's a hand and fist crack through a roof.
Ray Jardine probably didn't use anything larger than a #4 Friend
when he did it in 1978.
You can probably train for it at home -
just build a model of the lip out of wood and train on it,
until you can do the "situp from hell".
There's an old tradition of training on models of climbs,
like when Henry Barber built a model of Foops in his basement.
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