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nature
climber
Santa Fe, NM
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
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... and it just got better and better from there.
P. Envy and MisterE arrived at the site late Thursday night. By the time myself, Papajoto and eKat landed we were already having our escape route covered by Santa Fe S.W.A.T. Dudes were all dressed in camo and doing some sort of exercise. Their Sergeant came over and greeted us and told us what they were doing. Excellent way to start the madness.
Some time Later in the day a BLM LEO came into camp. After a chat he wandered over to me and said, "I heard you're serving up raw and endangered fish to these people". I said, "yeah, I went down to the Rio Grand and caught some fish for my friends". He laughed and left. Last thing he said was something like "Well I'm glad it's you guys and not the locals". He didn't understand.
We also had a visit from a Deputy Sheriff from Colorado.
Luckily nobody got arrested or died. SushiFest Santa Fe is over (though there are leftovers at my place). Good times. More picts soon.
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Apr 20, 2008 - 11:07pm PT
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What a great time. As always, the food was great. The crags were excellent. And the people rocked. It was great meeting lots of new, cool people.
Here are some pics:
Cool local dude whose name I forgot, on Grape Ape (and perhaps MisterE in the background, on some really hard looking thing).
Steve's first climb...
on Elysian Fields (I think).
Pennsylenvy on the Dead Squirrel Problem, notice the dead squirrel under him. His first attempt, Friday, ended with his bare foot landing on (in) the mushy, oozy corpse.
SteveW on the Dead Squirrel problem.
Saturday sunset.
The next bunch are all MisterE leading and Pennsylenvy belaying on KSR (Ken's Shitty Route) this morning:
PS. eKat, I made it to the highway in 20 minutes this morning! WooHoo!
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John Moosie
climber
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Apr 21, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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Hey nature,
I haven't gotten to read much of these threads on the santa fe sushifest because my ibook is losing another logic board, dang pieces of crap. but anyway, I wanted to know if you got to climb more this fest. I hope so. :-)
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Apr 21, 2008 - 11:58am PT
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Once we found the place, it was awesome! PE Tigger and I were first on site, arriving Friday morning to perfect temperatures in an amazing canyon. We found "the spot" after consulting briefly with Nature and staked ourselves out for the long weekend.
Excited to climb, we quickly packed our gear and headed into the canyon. We had no idea what any of the routes were rated, so we found a couple of short sport climbs on the clean basalt that looked pretty good. Tim lead the first one, thinking it was the "classic" 5.10a in the area. After a couple of hangs, he got up it. I pulled the rope and flashed it, thinking more like .10c. I then sent the climb next to it, and it felt like .11b.
Tim on lead:
Looking up, we noticed that the climbing continued another 2-3 pitches above on excellent looking rock.
Not knowing the grades, we decided to pass for the time being and check out some other stuff (We found out later the two climbs we did were .10d and .11c respectively. Whew! Not as out-of-shape as I thought!).
We found some moderate trad climbs in the 5.4 - 5.6 range and did all three of them. They were excellent, and we were really liking the quality of the rock. Tendon-friendly, excellent friction, and cerebral movement. Tim leading one of the trad lines:
It was warming up in the canyon, and we deciced to call it a day. After all, we had 3 days of climbng and didn't want to get used up the first day! We got back to camp to find Nature setting up for the event. Being from the environmentally-friendly Santa Fe now, he had some new-fangled methane-conversion set-up shown here (I never did figure out how it worked):
Even Tigger was like, "What the...?"
Pretty soon folks started showing up, and the sushifest began properly. Nature, PapaJoto, Isabella, SteveW and EKat:
Big Eye, Blue Marlin and Tasmanian Salmon were some of the first to come out. The Salmon was super fatty and amazingly delish:
Sunset Friday night:
Nature flying his colors:
Saturday found us doing the heinous 10-minute-hike-approach to the Wall of Long Climbs. There are 5-6 climbs, all 105 to 140 feet long. We warmed up on a 5.9 with 20 clips, and then I onsighted one of the best .11+ climbs I have been on. Ever. 105 feet long and several cruxes makes "Paleface" full value. The climbing here is very good.
I decided to take a break while the rest of the crew climbed the .10a and .10c in the area. I heard Papajoto was going to try and get the second ascent of "Airbus", a 5.11 offwidth, so I hiked up with my camera to get some pictures. Aaron belayed me up to the start just as PJ was getting started, and I got some nice footage:
He got it with one hang. I tell you, this thing looks horrendous! I passed n the offer to follow...
Marty and I headed into the grotto in the afternoon and did a couple more excellent climbs. The basalt is really good and really varied in this canyon. Very impressive!
That evening, more sushi, more folks showed up, and Tigger made a strong show cruising around camp with 3 dogs, letting them know not to mess! He was a big hit with the kids.
Tim and I climbed in the grotto again on Sunday, then headed back to Flagstaff.
It as a good sized group, plenty of fish for everyone, and a really great camping/feasting/climbing experience!
Thanks to everyone! Nature for the awesome food, the Locals for hospitality and great work on the routes in Diablo Canyon, Tim for sharing the ride/gas with me, Marty, Rich, Amy for partnerships in climbing. It was good to see folks again: my good friends Ekat and PMB, and great to meet new folks as well:
Steve from Buffalo, PapaJoto and family, SteveW, Mare and others whose names elude my fish-fattened brain...
Good times! Erik
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Apr 21, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
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"Cool local dude whose name I forgot" in the 1st pic looks to be my boy aaron miller
that's his lovely wife amy's back in the pic of nature sporting '04 blasphemy
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nature
climber
Santa Fe, NM
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2008 - 12:35pm PT
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Where is my McCain shirt?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Apr 21, 2008 - 12:52pm PT
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I'm pissed I missed it....I don't think I can leave the state right now anyways......
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:29pm PT
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Schweeet!
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SteveW
Trad climber
State of confusion
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Apr 21, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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Nature
What a great party!!!!! Woooo Hoooo! You know how to do it
right! It was great meeting everyone there, all those
folks I've only known through the taco. MisterE--what a great
cat Tigger is--he sure livened up the weekend.
Marty, thanks for taking me up a couple of routes--ha ha, I can
still climb! Wish you'd had a picture of Tim hittin' that
squirrel! I'll get some pix posted shortly.
Thanks again Nature, and it was great meeting everyone!
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Amy
Sport climber
Santa Fe, NM
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Apr 21, 2008 - 10:22pm PT
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Nature, thanks for all the fish! And thanks to those nice guys who'd just barely met me (paganmonkeyboy and Steve from Buffalo) but helped me transport a couch from a rummage sale to my house!!
Aaron and I went for a really neat full moon hike down Diablo Canyon to the Rio Grande at 2:30 am...that was really awesome, to see those familiar walls all aglow in the moonlight. The hike is about 7 miles roundtrip from where we were camped, and we were tipsy from the sake when we left and really thirsty from dehydration when we returned. No one was awake when we got back.
You guys are all welcome back anytime!!
Amy
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Apr 22, 2008 - 07:41am PT
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FUN.
PROD.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Apr 22, 2008 - 09:39am PT
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sweet pics ! and that is steve's first climb *ever* on a rope, ladies and gentlemen, though we used to climb buildings and billboards way back in the day. it was great seeing all you people, meeting new friends, seeing more of the planet...and santa fe is definitely an interesting town ;-)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 22, 2008 - 11:37am PT
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Good times as always!!!
That OW route looks gnarly.
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