Goodrich Pinnacle, Right (Glacier Point)

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Messages 21 - 26 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Eddie

Trad climber
San Francisco
Apr 17, 2008 - 09:20pm PT
I've done it twice in the last year. The first time I was sketched on the right variation on pitch 5, but I blamed it on the july heat.

I did it again in October and found that was I even more sketched.

--Both times I went right and then up at about 45 degrees straight to the bolt (the piton just didn't seem like the way to go). your choice of route here makes a big difference.

--Both times I linked the 5th and 6th pitches without a problem.

--Both times I found that the climbing after those 3 bolts was not easy, and just traversed left from the bottom of the bolts (very easy) after clipping one.

--Both times I found the 'psychological crux' (4th pitch) to be trivial.

If you don't mind the runout or can let someone else lead it, I think the climb is awesome.

Pete
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Oct 21, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
Looked up Goodrich Right and found this thread. I penji'd over from our high point and set an anchor one pitch above and started down replacing the first ascent bolts and found many newer bolts not shown on the topo. Two were at an anchor just a few feet above the fifth pitch anchor I was going to replace. It had many slings and rap rings so I just assumed it was a new rap anchor. I had just replaced a bolt a little above this and saw many of this same type bolt/hanger higher up that were not on my topo (my topo was from an old Myers guide) Well now I was going to use this anchor to lower another rope from, and I was curious so I pulled one of the bolts to make sure I could trust it. It was a Petzl hanger with a non-removable type bolt. The bolt had a round head, was 5/16 and around 3/4" long. It was in some kind of a sleeve that I just drove in deeper and patched. I reused the hanger with a new SS 3/8 Five Piece in a new hole. I lowered off this down to the next original anchor and replaced it. A little strange this new ASCA anchor just a few feet below this rap anchor, but I just figured "it is what it is" and went on my way. Now it gets stranger. At the next anchor, the same thing just a couple feet below another original anchor. Now what? Do I replace all the original and leave the newer stuff? Go against my no chopping rule and replace the original and chop? Well that was that really cold day a couple weeks ago and the wind was blowing hard so I took the easy way out and left it for next season. Today I found a topo for "Galactic Hitch-hiker" and it seems like maybe that was what I saw. Did this route kinda walk on the Goodrich Right Side Route by accident or something. I am glad I did nothing more without some clarification. I hope I am not opening an old wound here but I know some of you folks have the answer. Oh yea, what kind of bolts are those, I can't find anything on the Petzl web site.
O.K. new stuff.. The left side was just as the Topo showed. All the bolts were where they were supposed to be, just at the anchors. They were replaced with ASCA double ring hangers and 3/8"SS five-piece bolts. All fixed pins found were reseated except one 3/4 angle. That was pulled by hand, placement cleaned out and accepted bomber yellow alien. I am home now and will get a list out of everything that the team got fixed sometime this winter.
Roger Brown
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 21, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
Hi Roger

Thanks for replacing that left side route. I remember the anchors sucked.

I've done hitchhiker and also Goodrich Right, both before and after Hitchhiker was put up.

The Hitchhiker folks didn't add any pro bolts except on their variation on the Runout 5.9 pitch, which jogs out right and returns left to the anchors below the chimney.

Not sure about which areas you are talking about. There's always been an anchor at the top of the chimney just below the summit block which does have two sets of anchors (one i think is for rappelling off to the left side)

Peace

Karl
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 21, 2008 - 06:32pm PT
Good route, definitely fun and, if you follow the easiest possible way, practically no runouts on 5.9, and totally reasonable on 5.7 to 5.8 (only about 15-20 ft) except on very very easy ground. Clint's edits to Supertopo are EXACTLY correct. You can also get a textbook bomber small wire where both indicate ".75 inch cam." Some of the double bolt belays are, in reality, one new bolt and one unknown quality (probably reset) pin, or sometimes a second bolt that appears worthless. We rapped the right side, not left, and this worked out great. Route is quite popular, there were three or four parties when we did it in Sept. Grack Marginal is also excellent at this grade, and there's something new just right of it, with several bolts. Probably 5.10 but maybe only .9.

Another good one is Monday Morning to Patio to Coonyard, possibly rebolted by Roger (thanks from all of us legions of slab lovers!), but that one may have some runouts on 5.9 to 10a. Safe, though, very smooth rock. Enjoy!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 21, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
"Good route, definitely fun and, if you follow the easiest possible way, practically no runouts on 5.9, and totally reasonable on 5.7 to 5.8 (only about 15-20 ft) except on very very easy ground."

I'd have to disagree on this one. Not sure about that right hand hitchhiker variation, but that last face pitch seems to require 5.6 to 5.7 moves, 60-100 feet led-out and that's if you are properly on route! If you keep a cool head, you probably won't fall but...

Peace

Karl
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Oct 22, 2008 - 09:15am PT
I did the right side early in my career and went straight up from the pin on pitch 5 and found it pretty intimidating. I was too scared to stop climbing because I was afraid that if I stopped, I woundn't want to start up again (and I sure wasn't going to try and downclimb it).

Climbing over to the bolts on the right hand side, I thought was pretty mellow. Free climbing above the third bolt seemed a bit of a sandbag, but from the top bolt you can pendi back toward the main pinnacle and this is also pretty mellow.

So if climbing the right hand variation, I do agree with the supertopo topo that the 5.8 runnout on p 4 is the "psychological crux".

I did the left side [not quit to the top] many years ago also. Interesting, but I remember it as a more adventerous climb.
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