Hey Coz, Sure would like to hear the story of Southern Belle

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The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 22, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
All the elements come together here to make one of the most classic free climbs in the world, if not THE most classic, it seems to me. Line - direct, position - dead center, rock quality - good as it gets, boldness - well... , location, location, location. Since I'll never climb enough to be confident to swap leads up it, I'd love to toprope it, but that'll never happen either. The route looks incredible!

The route will never be popular, that is, it won't often be climbed, at least not in my most extreme imaginings of the future of our game. But it stands as a silent and solitary tribute to the essence of climbing in possibly the most amazing climbing area in the world. So it will be popular in the imagination of climbers, a rock hard example of what is possible, and imagination is what fuels the fire.

So congratulations, Coz. With Southern Belle, you and Dave have inspired generations of climbers to push it beyond the line. Some of them might even do so on the same wall by a different route.

I don't see that Growing Up diminishes Southern Belle in any fashion. Quite the opposite - one emphasizes the magnitude of the other. It will be interesting to see the turns climbing takes in our lifetimes, but a route like Southern Belle will never be outdone - equaled possibly, but never outdone.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 22, 2009 - 10:45pm PT
Fair enough Coz,
A thoughtful reflection and elucidation of your internal contours.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Mar 22, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
Good Words Tarbuster and Warbler. Some on ST criticize the fact that not more post to these climbing threads. The fact is some of the threads, like this one, can overwhelm.

This Thread of incredible climbing history is something no one wants to reply to with some trite, lame response. I spent years with a fairly good climber and his friends so understand a little bit about what's involved. It has been beyond special to view and enjoy this thread. Lynne

drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Mar 22, 2009 - 10:51pm PT
I hope this doesn't sound trite, or lame but
WOW....wow.

{{{gratitude}}}

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 22, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
Coz- Truly fantastic account and, as I had hoped, a tale of power.

Chouinard and Frost once wrote that "but every climb is not for every climber; the ultimate climbs are not democratic. The fortunate climbs protect themselves by being unprotectable and remain a challenge that can be solved only by boldness and commitment backed solidly by technique."

You and Dave took a little stroll through a magic place. Other than maintaining the quality of the anchors, please leave your accomplishment as it stands and be at peace with the exclusivity and grace with which you solved the problem left by Walt and Dave in the first place.

You never find out what have until you have to use it and use it all! Makes me want to jump around and howl at the thought because I've had many a taste!

A selfish thing wouldn't inspire your peers as it does. A pure and proud effort does it every time. Don't go changin' a thing.

WBraun

climber
Mar 22, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
Coz

Cashner? hahaha what irony. I just had breakfast with Rick today and yesterday in the cafe. If I would have known I would have asked him about it.

Next time I see him I will ......
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Mar 23, 2009 - 12:26am PT
Coz wrote

"I never set out to be a great climber, but the Belle threw me into another realm of self, an enlighten being if only for a moment. The run outs and the danger slipped me into a gap, I can not and do not want to find again.

I for whatever reason held that face as holy, beautiful and divine, the rap route (Growing Up), killed me inside, and Dave for that matter. It was if some one spray painted the Mona Lisa. But I know the same could be said for drilling period.

The Buddha said," you can not perceive what you can not understand," I do not understand why I climb, so I can not perceive an answer. I am just a climber, who loved climbing, I know not what I do or why. Do any of us? Really? Maybe that sounds simple, but trying to answer question with no answer, is a waste of time and thought.

As far as the future having value and morals, then yes, I am sad, when the last great places are tarnished what then do we do, what then do we value. I am no saint, I have my sins, if others feel different great. I still say we should leave the face alone from rap-bolting, so others one day, can swim with the red serpents in the golden desert of the South Face."

We've had our differences about this whole question but I want to acknowledge this fine post.

Peace

Karl

Edit for Warbler, I edited my post after Coz edited the quote. They match now.
Anastasia

climber
Not here
Mar 23, 2009 - 12:33am PT
Big happy "BUMP!"
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 23, 2009 - 12:42am PT
Karl

I also appreciate what coz wrote, but it was a bit different, and it's an important distinction -


A part of the quote - "But I know the same could be said for drilling on stance." in your appreciative post was actually "But I know the same could be said for drilling period."

I think the subtle difference shows he has an even broader understanding of the significance of bolting in the realm of climbing ethics.

Ethically speaking, bolting on rappel is to stance bolting as bolting on stance is to not bolting at all.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Mar 23, 2009 - 01:26am PT
"A huge leapfrog past what was the cutting edge."

Beautifully said Peter!
Fletcher

Trad climber
here to eternity
Mar 23, 2009 - 04:14am PT
Wow... I'm at a loss for words other than I am truly appreciative of the magnitude of that ascent and thank you for sharing its tale.

Eric
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Mar 23, 2009 - 11:14am PT
where the threshold of friction meets the threshold of gravity,
stout men and women dance.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 23, 2009 - 11:20am PT
Again, Mr. Grossman is right on the money.

Southern Belle is not a democratic climb.

A tribute to those who did it. Unbelievable.

Visionary
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Mar 23, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
Kevin - never say never....a single push, ground up,stance drilled (no bolt/bathook ladder)free first ascent is feasible and would certainly eclipse SB. Hint - just right of Cataclysmic*
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 23, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
Go Al Go!
It cud' be called "Cataclysmic Megasmear"
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Mar 23, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
Megasmear....good one roy! Maybe you could give it a go - not much crimpin - lots - o - palmin *
Colt

climber
Midpines
Mar 23, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
Contender for one of the best ST treads ever! Props to all of the contributors.

Thank you!...bump!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 23, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
Hopefully it would be shoes and not climbers doing the megasmearing.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 23, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
'Best aim for the stratosmear...

Hey Coz,
Can we get a lil' story about that N Face route on Higher Rock sometime?
Should I start a thread asking after it... that seemed to work well for The Belle.
Walleye

climber
regnaD kciN's office
Mar 23, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
"Should I start a thread asking after it... that seemed to work well for The Belle."

Tar, he only acquiesced after I threatened to pummel him. Let me know if you need help with your new request.
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