Hey Coz, Sure would like to hear the story of Southern Belle


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Mar 22, 2009 - 11:18pm PT

Cashner? hahaha what irony. I just had breakfast with Rick today and yesterday in the cafe. If I would have known I would have asked him about it.

Next time I see him I will ......
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Mar 23, 2009 - 12:26am PT
Coz wrote

"I never set out to be a great climber, but the Belle threw me into another realm of self, an enlighten being if only for a moment. The run outs and the danger slipped me into a gap, I can not and do not want to find again.

I for whatever reason held that face as holy, beautiful and divine, the rap route (Growing Up), killed me inside, and Dave for that matter. It was if some one spray painted the Mona Lisa. But I know the same could be said for drilling period.

The Buddha said," you can not perceive what you can not understand," I do not understand why I climb, so I can not perceive an answer. I am just a climber, who loved climbing, I know not what I do or why. Do any of us? Really? Maybe that sounds simple, but trying to answer question with no answer, is a waste of time and thought.

As far as the future having value and morals, then yes, I am sad, when the last great places are tarnished what then do we do, what then do we value. I am no saint, I have my sins, if others feel different great. I still say we should leave the face alone from rap-bolting, so others one day, can swim with the red serpents in the golden desert of the South Face."

We've had our differences about this whole question but I want to acknowledge this fine post.



Edit for Warbler, I edited my post after Coz edited the quote. They match now.

Not here
Mar 23, 2009 - 12:33am PT
Big happy "BUMP!"
The Warbler

the edge of America
Mar 23, 2009 - 12:42am PT

I also appreciate what coz wrote, but it was a bit different, and it's an important distinction -

A part of the quote - "But I know the same could be said for drilling on stance." in your appreciative post was actually "But I know the same could be said for drilling period."

I think the subtle difference shows he has an even broader understanding of the significance of bolting in the realm of climbing ethics.

Ethically speaking, bolting on rappel is to stance bolting as bolting on stance is to not bolting at all.

beneath the valley of ultravegans
Mar 23, 2009 - 01:26am PT
"A huge leapfrog past what was the cutting edge."

Beautifully said Peter!

Trad climber
here to eternity
Mar 23, 2009 - 04:14am PT
Wow... I'm at a loss for words other than I am truly appreciative of the magnitude of that ascent and thank you for sharing its tale.


Trad climber
Placerville, California
Mar 23, 2009 - 11:14am PT
where the threshold of friction meets the threshold of gravity,
stout men and women dance.

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 23, 2009 - 11:20am PT
Again, Mr. Grossman is right on the money.

Southern Belle is not a democratic climb.

A tribute to those who did it. Unbelievable.


Monument Manor
Mar 23, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
Kevin - never say never....a single push, ground up,stance drilled (no bolt/bathook ladder)free first ascent is feasible and would certainly eclipse SB. Hint - just right of Cataclysmic*

right here, right now
Mar 23, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
Go Al Go!
It cud' be called "Cataclysmic Megasmear"

Monument Manor
Mar 23, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
Megasmear....good one roy! Maybe you could give it a go - not much crimpin - lots - o - palmin *

Mar 23, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
Contender for one of the best ST treads ever! Props to all of the contributors.

Thank you!...bump!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 23, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
Hopefully it would be shoes and not climbers doing the megasmearing.

right here, right now
Mar 23, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
'Best aim for the stratosmear...

Hey Coz,
Can we get a lil' story about that N Face route on Higher Rock sometime?
Should I start a thread asking after it... that seemed to work well for The Belle.

regnaD kciN's office
Mar 23, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
"Should I start a thread asking after it... that seemed to work well for The Belle."

Tar, he only acquiesced after I threatened to pummel him. Let me know if you need help with your new request.
scuffy b

4 to 8
Mar 23, 2009 - 08:19pm PT
What a captivating and powerful account. Much of the time, I
fancy myself a climber.

This just points out my folly.

Thanks, Coz.

right here, right now
Mar 24, 2009 - 11:40am PT
Enough of this sissy slab climbing reportage...

Will you be including Coz, next to that Higher Rock story,
Something about Return to the Stone Age & Ribbon Falls Amphitheater???
I've gotta think so.

Here's the deal kids:
Ya'll probably only have an inkling of just how good this guy is on the rock.
So these routes, the MAN's climbs I'm mentioning, CRACK routes, more or less bottom to top, each of them have passages which Cozzy completed that would sear your butt hairs right to your smooth baby bottoms.

Forget about aiding through the tough sections too.
The only way we are going to get a crack at experiencing these bold masterworks is through reading about them...

I'll edit that sucker for you Coz!
I need my big break: you understand I got no résumé.

But you can see, as evidenced by my florid postings here, I will churn that puppy out with concision, brevity, and a particular knack for flow and an eminently digestible regard for proper diction.

I will shape it with no uncertain sense of tension, cast your words in dazzling rhythm and likewise imbue your work with the delectable flavor of the tell befitting man's greatest adventures, such that your readers will page turn that puppy straight from cover leaf to closing, and without fail be importuned to do so in a single push from dawn to dusk.

Or you can go for the slamdunk and ask Peter Haan to do it.

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 24, 2009 - 12:15pm PT
My vote's for Roy the editor. . .

he needs a new 'hat'. . .


Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 24, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
Brilliant thread, not just Scott's core story but Hank's too, and all the other notes.

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
Hey Coz,

Thanks for rekindling this thread.

As for editors, I might also consider this guy, he's even looking for a gig.


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