Doug Robinson, Sean Jones, rap bolt South face of Half Dome!

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Messages 2821 - 2840 of total 2930 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 22, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
Isn't there video of this route in the last masters of stone?

Edit- thanks Peter I was mis taken.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 22, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
Salamanizer's account, however offhanded, would be EVER SO interesting for us all. His ascent up to the arch must have been well worth a few comments, dontcha thunk? Puleeze grunt out something!?!

No Ryan, not that I know of. This route hasn't had a second ascent, only a second half-ascent, and the original ascent is not available so far. It was actually to be a movie but hasn't made it past raw footage, partly for lack of money and partly for lack of conviction.
Dr. F.

Big Wall climber
SoCal
Mar 22, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
Me and Manxy dude made a late season ascent, the fall colors were nice
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 22, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
would love to hear about the 2nd ascent if it went. Seems like an amazing climb.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 22, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
Vitaliy, Salamanizer's is NOT a second ascent. We understand it is the crack climb up to the arch's end or thereabouts and then retreat begins the slab climbing begins. Over a thousand feet of (rapbolted) rock still remained above this party as they exited.

Furthermore, it is not really the case in the strict sense, that there has been a first ascent yet either, after all there has not been a continuous ascent of the route.

So much would change if we had a few ascents of the thing and people came back and shared their opinions with us.
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 23, 2013 - 07:49am PT
Shawn's pics are fantastic
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Mar 23, 2013 - 10:21am PT
This is one of my favorite threads on supertopo
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 9, 2014 - 11:32am PT
So six years now and the thing still hasn't had a real ascent?

I thought the justification for the rap bolting was to have a route that people would do, as opposed to S Belle?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 9, 2014 - 11:56am PT
I thought the justification for the rap bolting was to have a route that people would do, as opposed to S Belle?

Yeah, but now there's such a stigma attached to it that people capable of doing it are afraid of being labeled sport weenies, or rap bolt lovers, or something; while all the sport weenies who wouldn't care about the label, can't do it.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Jan 9, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
Would somebody mind summarizing this thread, or summarizing the history of the route? Has the route been done? Seems like people would be all over it, falling and trying.......

Now that the Dawn Wall is finished......
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 9, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
Bottom half done, ground up. Tons of hard climbing.
Top half done, top down.
It has all been free climbed, but not in a single ascent.

Big stink up about ethics. Reason was to have a safer route, compared to Southern Belle.

I think that's about the short of it.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 9, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
I thought the justification for the rap bolting was to have a route that people would do, as opposed to S Belle?

It is not a fact that it hasn't seen a second or third ascent. People might have gone to the top but not posted about it anywhere, especially not on this forum. I do not see many climbers who currently climb 5.13 or 5.12 here, even though there are a few...
Basically it is not known if it had a second ascent.

Continuous, partial or wall style, I would love to see some photos of it! If I had the skill to repeat it I would go this weekend. Hell, I would skip work and go tomorrow! Without giving a sh#t about being labeled as a "sport climber," "rap bolt lover," or any other ridiculous put down that some loser on a forum can come up with.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 9, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
^^^ I thought I had heard it getting repeated?

No matter, as the giant monoliths of Half Dizzle and El Capone have seen the majority of drama from cali climbers anyway. Who needs TLC?!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 9, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
V, the word would have gotten out if it had been successfully done. People just can't keep their custard holes shut about something like that.

It took about 5 minutes for us to hear about Honnold and Stanhope doing S Belle.

Heck we hear about every ten minutes taken off the Nose, the first female ascent of this, the fastest ascent of XYZ.

The first continuous ascent of this thing is news, no matter what we might think of the FA style.

I seriously doubt it has been done.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 9, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
Nobody would climb if they couldn't talk about it.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Jan 9, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
Not true. Maybe not risk their lives, but they would climb.....because it's there......because it's awe inspiring and it's beautiful.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jan 9, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
This thread needs more photos.


Growing Up on Half Dome &#40;unless I'm wrong...&#41;
Growing Up on Half Dome (unless I'm wrong...)
Credit: Shawn Reeder
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
U.N. Ambassador, Crackistan
Jan 9, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
I heard Coz free soloed it but then got tooled on top for being a dick. Last seen weeping in cuffs in Mumbai.

DMNT
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Jan 9, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
This thread needs more photos.

Yeah, even if we have to rap down to get them!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 9, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
Heck we hear about every ten minutes taken off the Nose, the first female ascent of this, the fastest ascent of XYZ.

What if Salamizer did not say anything about his attempt when he climbed half of it? No one would know. He climbs more than 99% of people here, is a member here, but posts TRs only once in a blue moon. Most likely because he is not a pro athlete and does not need to be a "first gemale to do X" or "first male with asthma to do X" to keep his sponsors happy. The only reason I post about some of the things I do here is because I started doing that since I started climbing. Reports of other people inspired me to get out and do some of the things that seem interesting, so I wanted to do my share of 'giving back' in a way. But many people don't post. But I guess I do agree with you survival, if this thing had a complete second ascent it would probably be known.
Cultureshock!!! Get stronger! I will go belay you!
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