Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 2141 - 2160 of total 2678 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
poop

Boulder climber
Jun 9, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
and hay wildone.
your and idiot for saying the word idiot
its GEEK!
cheers
ill be bouldering at high tied down at mickeys beach this evening if you wanna rape later.
poop

Boulder climber
Jun 9, 2008 - 06:47pm PT
sorry Buggs
its GEEKS vs GEEKS
denzuki

Trad climber
Plymouth, England
Jun 25, 2008 - 02:50am PT
The first time I visited Yosemite I was captured by its overwhelming atmosphere. Approaching the foot of El Cap I walked for ages along the foot of the monolith just brushing my hand along the mirror smooth (in places)granite. Awesome. But on looking up there they were - someone had deliberately damaged a million years of gentle polishing, by drilling and placing expansion bolts. Why?
denzuki

Trad climber
Plymouth, England
Jun 25, 2008 - 02:55am PT
The first time I visited Yosemite I was captured by its overwhelming atmosphere. Approaching the foot of El Cap I walked for ages along the foot of the monolith just brushing my hand along the mirror smooth (in places)granite. Awesome. But on looking up there they were - someone had deliberately damaged a million years of gentle polishing, by drilling and placing expansion bolts. Why?

'Denzuki and medusa are Idiots.' Really! Wildone - an obvious expert in more than one field.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 25, 2008 - 04:20am PT
It's near the end of June and nobody's noticed if there has been a second ascent (you know what I mean)

I'm wondering if anybody's gone up and sent the thing and just kept quiet about it so they didn't have to deal with the controversy around the route? or WTF?

Seems like a Potter or a Caldwell could just make a happy day out of the thing.

Peace

Karl
couchmaster

climber
Jun 25, 2008 - 10:59am PT
Kurt nailed one of my thoughts when he said: first one to 3000 posts wins a new hilti!!!!

in reality i think most people are upset about the "style and location" more than the bolts.
Bolts are a part of climbing and will always be so. But style and respect for style and the respect for wild places is what is making the waves here....
Half Dome is not Smith Rocks, Red River Gorge or Las Vegas...
Half Dome is steeped in history and adventure, and rap bolting it takes that flavor away from a magical place.

I would rather see them do the route ground up, place a few more holes (can be patched later, and you would never know they were there) and climb it in the style that has dominated FA's for decades, than to open up Hd for sport bolting. Once Pandora's box is opened, you can't close it....
ks


However, if you then wind up with a piss poor route that a dude like Scott there, advocating for chopping this route, can't or won't climb ever again because of extreme fear, what is the point of that? The route gets 3 or 4 ascents and then falls into obscurity.

Pointless and selfish for those who would have liked to have followed.

Which is why different areas have different standards and issues and styles.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 25, 2008 - 11:51am PT
Coz wrote
"Karl, your words are of a happy white man thinking the ends justify the means. Shultz and I will be at the reservation, crying in our hippie tea."

I beg to differ. Southern Belle has bolts too and has made few happy (except for a few who like the "Idea" that it exists. They'll never do it.)

Muir encouraged folks to come to the mountains and get their glad tidings. If some elite climber wants to come dance with death, they have your route to vision quest on, if some semi-elite climber wants to move over beautiful stone and feel happy in mountains, they can do growing up. Seems like a win win to me.

Quit your crying. It's just an idea to you. You'll never see those bolts nor climb either of these routes. Getting worked up over it is just another form of fundamentalism. Future climbers aren't being cheated out of their adventure since the history of second ascents in that area proves that future climbers are either scared or not interested.

It's becoming obvious that nothing has really changed. 95% of actual climbing in the valley consists of weekend warriors and serious climbers doing often repeated routes that get their blood running but only "might" kill them. The other 5% consists of the Elite thinking their routes matter when it's really more like celebrity dramas, everybody pays attention but it doesn't actually affect the rest of us.

Peace

Karl
sawin

climber
So., CA.
Jun 25, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
Coz, Karl
this has been addressed previous within this thread.

Somehow does there need to be a vote or just sovereign
rule? With the later how is it to be enforced without
national forest, park etc. printouts/handouts?

rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Jun 25, 2008 - 01:09pm PT
What a bunch of elitist bullshit that is.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 25, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
I didn't bump this thread back to live but I fed it. Personally, I think it would be better to let it sink back into oblivion until somebody climbs it

Peace

Karl
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 25, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
what is the 'time to live' period for the 'try' by the tradsters?


or if as soon as someone expresses an interest in trying are we to preserve it indefinitely?


sounds good to me.

heh, sorry Karl, just stirring the internet pot.
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Jun 25, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
The west is owned by the doers. Always have been too.

DMT
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jun 25, 2008 - 03:22pm PT
Seems like after darn near 3,000 posts someone would at least go up there and have a look at it?? Be a shame to go to all that work and still have no one climb the damn thing.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Yonder
Jun 25, 2008 - 03:25pm PT
Maybe it got re-bolted in all that time....or there's another one!(gulp)
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jun 25, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
" The west is owned by the doers. Always have been too."
-Almost Stegnerein
Jim E

climber
Mountain Road
Sep 16, 2008 - 04:11pm PT
bump

heeheeheeheeheehee
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 16, 2008 - 04:15pm PT
Wouldn't be surprised of somebody went and climbed it and just didn't want to jump into the fray so they kept it to themselves.

No info on that, just spraying

Peace

Karl
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Sep 16, 2008 - 04:27pm PT
karl, do you want to tell us you sent the rig?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 16, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
No secret story, just can't believe somebody with the skills hasn't just hiked up and sent it. Why not? Come on, How many times do people have the opportunity to do a second ascent of a route like that?

I'd love to say I sent it but instead I'll say i'm not buff enough for it

peace

Karl
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Sep 16, 2008 - 05:02pm PT
Interesting--wasn't this route "put up for the people", as in rap-bolted en masse to provide accessible (free)climbing on the South Face ?

All good plans...
Messages 2141 - 2160 of total 2678 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews