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Messages 1840 - 1859 of total 2779 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 28, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
Yo wrote
"yap

yap

yap

wankwankwank"

Yeah, why do people post on the internet anyway? This would be a lot better forum if people would quit their damn typing eh?

which of your 1872 supertopo postings do you consider most worthy?

Peace

Karl
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:04pm PT
I'd have to say #785 was a real highpoint.






(wank)
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
"As we approach the 2000th post, a lot of folks are going to be jockeying for the coveted
number 2000. However, I feel that this milestone should be reached in good style.
Posting a bunch of consecutive Bullshít Filler Posts™ is a far worse violation (rape?)
of this thread than posting something substantive that happens to land at the lucky
spot at precisely the right time, IMKSHO (In My Knott So Humble Opinion)...
"




that right there is a total bullshit filler post!
=)
rectorsquid

climber
Lake Tahoe
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:17pm PT
I feel so darned ignorant on the subject at hand. If I'm climbing a route and come across a bolt, what do I do to identify it as a bolt that was placed from a stance, a bol that was placed while hanging on aid gear, or a bolt placed from a top rope?

Also, when I'm climbing a long runout section of a climb, what do I do to determine if the FA was a serious and talented climber who didn't notice the runout, if the FA was a cheap bastard and just didn't want to spend the money or had run out of money and was saving the next bolt for later, or if the FA was an arrogant jerk who wanted to create a death-route and only placed one or two bolts to keep anyone else from ever adding any more (since doing it free-solo would mean that there would be no proof of the FA and anyone else could bolt how they pleased)?

Maybe I should take up a different sport like football or even golf where there are less rules.

Dave
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
Yo wrote:

"I'd have to say #785 was a real highpoint.

(wank)"

Even better than when you posted the picture of your pecker in Feb?

Nothing like wanking on a thread about wishing your pecker was bigger

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=531804&msg=531825#msg531825

l-)

Karl
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
People keep thinking guys who climb at a high level and run it out are doing it maybe on purpose to create a so called death route, stupid ass speculation.

Bachar, climbing with a hook, decided to run it out big time on the BY. I am sure I could go up there and find hook placements that, if used to drill from, would reduce the large run-outs.

I'm sure Bachar was feeling great when he put up the BY. But the fact is, he contrived the run outs. Surely not a "death" route, folks have taken the whipper without tragedy, but what we hold near and dear as a bad-ass standard is actually a contrived "test piece." I say he ran it out on purpose to create the so-called death route.
Loomis

climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
k-man: I disagree, Bachar has put up some great routes, knott™ all of them " Death routes "
Go to Czech republic, where they have had laws governing how a route is established
sice the late 30's.
Some of those make the BY look tame.

k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:32pm PT
Loomis, I'm not sure what you are disagreeing with. Bachar has put up some classics (I only wish I had the shoes to climb them!), and certainly the BY is one of them. I was just countering Werner's point--sometimes folks do purposely put up dangerous routes.
nutjob

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:48pm PT
Haven't carved out the discretionary time to be fully informed on this thread, but feeling left out anyways so had to add some drivel.

There must be a spectrum of reasons for long run-outs on climbs:
1) Climber in the zone, not paying attention to pro
2) Climber in desperation, doesn't dare stop for fear of falling
3) Insecure: "look at how cool I am"
4) Vindictive and righteous: "my way is the right way, try to violate my ethics on this!"

this could probably be it's own thread, but I won't start it
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:48pm PT
K-man. I think a lot of people in this thread (and in this forum in general) talk about absolutes and that hampers having a decent discussion.

I remember when Verne Clevenger put up Hoppy's Favorite on GPA. He intentionally did not put any bolts on the first pitch (5.8) just to keep the 'riff raff' off. So, yes, there are times when people create 'articificial' runouts.

Last year Clint and I replaced the bolts on a route I put up in Tuolumne Meadows(Myopia AKA UFR on Pennyroyal Arches). It is 5.10 and has three protection bolts per pitch. The reason it is so runout is because there were very few places for us to stop and drill. In fact, my partner took a pretty big whipper trying to put in the bolt which would ultimately protect the crux and the long runout above.

I don't think you can make a blanket statement about runout routes. It would be nice to hear from Bachar about his motives on BY.

Bruce
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
kman
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
that
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
is a
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
waste of
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
bandwidth!
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Apr 28, 2008 - 02:59pm PT
BASE jumping to 2000 feet, anyone?
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Apr 28, 2008 - 03:21pm PT
Karl - I loaded this whole thread and copied to the clipboard (2 Ghz iMac G5 w/ 2 GB RAM,
and it tool just over 5 minutes. Also loaded in to MacBook with 3 GB RAM, just over 4 minutes.
However, when I pasted into MS Word 2008, the beach-ball spun, and is in fact still spinning on
both machines over an hour later. I'm gonna look for another app to try this with...
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 28, 2008 - 03:25pm PT
I don't think you can make a blanket statement about runout routes.

Bruce, I totally agree with you here, and nutjob did a good quick run-down of some of the reasons we see runs.

It is interesting to ponder how routes that we consider to be done in the best style (bottom-up) can still have holes in them (no pun intended). I mentioned the BY specifically because it's a route that's held in high esteem. How dare I call it contrived! Yet, look at the fact.

Perhaps Bachar or Yerian will say "We did the route with the fewest possible holes, yet left a route that can be safely climbed."

It's a game we play, and we all bend the rules so that what we do fits into our own idea of what is acceptable. I know staunch stylists who will stand on a bolt to drill rather go back down. The rules bend just enough to allow your version of vision.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Apr 28, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
Update: (actually, a Bullshít Filler Post™ disguised as an update)...

Just pasted all posts up to 1958 into Apple's Pages app, and it took a mere 55 sec on the iMac.

Hang on to yer seats - well over a quarter of a million words!!



Loomis

climber
Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66
Apr 28, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
Wow, this is better than a movie

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