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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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I think I may have climbed that route you were describing, we camped across the street a couple months ago and wanted to climb new directions but it was too hot and sunny and we found a small crack climb that was shaded by a tree, off to the left in the parking area.
Sounds like you did "Crank start crack"
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/crank-start-crack/107413958
The route Guy is talking about is a 10b called "Unnamed Sources".
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CaliGirlClimber
Trad climber
Bakersfield,, CA
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Oh yeah Rincon. That was the one. I had to give my partner a boost to get past the start. LOL
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Sep 18, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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my route at the valhall is called Where Silent Gods Stand Guard 12b
put up hanging off of hooks ground up and flawless style by myself and Bill Leventhal 200?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Nov 21, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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Kernville!
Flawless granite!
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 21, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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Lots o' memories there!
 ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 21, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
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I was just looking through this and saw Guys post about Valhalla...
These roots are a mystery to me... I think Ron Carson and Herb put em up on RAP ... I maybe wrong... after TRing the SH%T out of them and then making them HARD RUNOUT sport climbs....
Laeger and Carson rap bolting?? Those guys are two of the most skilled and dedicated ground up climbers ever. I don't know where you got that one. Or did I just fall for a troll..?
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 21, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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Kris,
He's just unfamiliar with major ground up skills...especially Carson.
ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 21, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
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Yeah Jan watched Ron stance drill the bolts on Skid Row and he still gets all animated about that if it comes up today. I've seen Herb stance drill with his darned Bosch in places I just could not believe. He's very good at that.
To his credit though, Guy - who is a friend of mine - does have more than just a clue about ground up skills. That's why I'm thinking (hoping) it was a troll, what he said. I know for a fact that there is absolutely no way Carson or Laeger rap bolted anything ever anywhere.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Nov 27, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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There is some good bouldering around Kernville.
These rocks are located below the Kern Slab, right next to the road. Another good bouldering area is at Boulder Gulch campground by the lake, just south of Wofford Heights.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
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These roots are a mystery to me... I think Ron Carson and Herb put em up on RAP ... I maybe wrong... after TRing the SH%T out of them and then making them HARD RUNOUT sport climbs....
OK I withdraw my previous statement....
But the climbs in there are really weird (bolt placements) ...... and they are not the best... IMHO.
The one Erik and Bill did is a good one, I belayed Erik on some of the others and even he said "They are choad"
So does anyone claim to have done the FA of the climbs?
I would love to know.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 27, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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Brian Jonas would know.
I heard that Ron Carson "discovered" the place while hiking somewhere across the river. He looked across and saw the deep slot canyon.
I'm quite sure that Ron did a lot of the routes in there, some with Herb.
I think it was Greg Haverstock who told me that he and Carson hiked up to the "Wake Up Call" expecting to do an FA, and were amazed to find our bolts there.
edit: The 11+ "Ride of The Valkyries" in Valhalla is a mega classic.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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""The 11+ "Ride of The Valkyries" in Valhalla is a mega classic.""
True.
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Greg Haverstock
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 13, 2013 - 03:25am PT
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Kris- You have a great memory. Ron Carson and I hiked a ton of gear, hooks, Bosch, and two ropes up only to find brand new bolts and chalk residue. I would guess that we got the (sadly) third and forth ascents. Great line!
Carson found Valhalla during one of his scouting adventures. He and Jonas established Valkyrie, put one bolt on a project, then Ron took a sabbatical from climbing. Jonas recruited the next generation of trad punks and cleaned up. Ben Laverty, Craig Lamond, and myself were his main posse and established many of the lines. All routes were done ground up, off natural placements, with no artificial breaks in the climbing. I still dream about the fifty-footer I took off the top of Tourag.
I have heard rumor that some "locals" have abandoned the trad standard and are squeezing lines using rap-bolting. Too bad that now the "ends" have more significance than the "means" I sure used a ton of energy trying to work out how to get high enough up those faces so that Jonas would allow me to stop and place a bolt. He would not allow us to haul the drill until we were where he felt the bolt should go. Tackle the run-out 5.8 on top of the main wall and you will understand our mentality. No need for a bolt if you won't hit the ground in the event of a fall.
Good memories...and I haven't even mentioned the week Rikke Ishoy visited. She brought her charm and European views on nudity!
Anybody climb at the Limestone these days?
Cheers
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Jun 13, 2013 - 04:37am PT
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Welcome Greg.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Checked out Valhalla last Saturday. only had enough time to climb one route. A short bolted affair with tricky moves to a big ledge. Started in a shady alcove on the climbers right. Is there any info to be had about the route names and grades, FA, etc?
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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EP
Trad climber
Way Out There
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Bumparoonio!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Greg.... hi, I just saw that you posted. Thanks for filling in the blanks about this place.
Didn't mean to disparage anybody with the rap bolting claim. It just something I was told.
Kern Limestone.... I went and looked for the trail last winter... it appears to be gone/overgrown. I wonder how the bees are doing?
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