top 5 Jtree climbs

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say-no-to-rap-bolting!

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 11, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
My top 5 are:
-illusion dweller
-equinox
-figures on a landscape
-father figure
-o kelley's crack
in no special order
what do you think?
afterwards we can see which routes get most mentioned...

°°go climb a rock°°
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Mar 11, 2008 - 09:19pm PT
Oh gosh, hard to pick just five.

Routes that come to mind immediately are:

Black Diamond, Equinox, O'Kelley's Crack, Survivor, Coarse and Buggy, Vector, Bloodline, Figures on a Landscape...

Curious to see what people throw out there on this topic. There's a lot of variety in Joshua Tree (style of climbing and rock quality), with enough standouts here and there to allow most to tailor make a tick list of routes that would be classics anywhere.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 11, 2008 - 09:44pm PT
Figures
Manly Dike
Coarse and Buggy
Black President
Dos Chichis


Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Mar 11, 2008 - 10:11pm PT
I have no idea what the names of the climbs are, but the only climbs I've been on in JTree have made me cry like a baby.. So I can't say that I have a favorite...

Well, that one little crack I did with some friends was cool... And that one crack way out there by that one place, that one was cool too! That one was way better too. I almost did the whole climb in one go, off the couch. I failed this climb, but had a great time goin' for it anyway!

Those face climbs are impossible.

And overhanging stuff I've been on all caused severe hemorrhaging, so I can't say I've had that great of an experience on those.


Then there was that one that Chris and Will put me on. Some crack that went around a corner, exposed as hell, to a head-wall traverse. SUPER EXPOSED!!! I'm not even sure I was able to finish this one... fear of death!

How's that for the list?
climbrunride

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Mar 11, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
Double Cross
Illusion Dweller
Poodles Are People Too
Walk On The Wild Side
Run For Your Life
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Mar 11, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
Forgot about Manly Dike.

It definitely deserves a nod.
WBraun

climber
Mar 11, 2008 - 11:40pm PT
o kelley's crack

Leave it to Beaver

Spiderline

More Monkey than Funky

And that thin thing way out there forgot the name.
Crimpergirl

Social climber
So on my way outta St. Looney!!!
Mar 11, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
I feel like I've hardly climbed enough in J-tree to provide five. I will say that 'Poodles Are People Too' and 'Run For Your Life' were *superb!* Papa Woosley and the Northwest Overhang (heck, especially the NW overhang) made me whimper, whine, cry and shiver like an infant. Never again!
A_PALOMINE

climber
Mar 11, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
I can only think of two i like enough for a list.

 hello kitten, hello kitten (#2)

 Airgun smoke


Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 12, 2008 - 12:22am PT
eye
eye
eye
eye
eye

Monkey roof
Wangerbanger
Centurion
Spiderline
Equinox
Castaways
e-Rescue
c-numb
Morongo man
Grit roof
and others,
get the honorable mention
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Mar 12, 2008 - 12:31am PT
I'll have to think about this one.

But some of my favorites to start with:

Bendix Claws
Middle Age Crazy
Perpetual Motion
Stand and Deliver
Trespassers Will Be Violated
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Mar 12, 2008 - 03:25am PT
illusion dweller
clean and jerk
more monkey
coarse and buggy
gunsmoke (according to the rating, it's a route too!)
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Mar 12, 2008 - 03:32am PT
I only climbed there once or twice but I remember they had a couple cracks that were fun...The Bong...Stingray...Oh and that Equinox one was a fun onsight...
say-no-to-rap-bolting!

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2008 - 06:25am PT
thanks for your input...
this gives some good ideas for the next adventures.

interseting to see how many different climbd are mentioned...

have fun
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Mar 12, 2008 - 07:17am PT
Zig Zag
Eye
Overhang Bypass
Damper
Duchess Right
Riotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
Mar 12, 2008 - 08:47am PT
1. Figures on a Landscape
2. Imaginary Voyage (totally unique, fun, & challenging)
3. Pigpen (boulder prob)
4. EBGBs
5. Course & Buggy

Tough call . . .
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Mar 12, 2008 - 10:11am PT
South Of Heaven ~ one of the best aretes anywhere
Survivor ~ the best route nobody knows about in JTree - on Queen Mtn, Louie's best FA?
Equinox
Figures On A Landscape
Imaginary Voyage ~ very unique, wild & classic
jtcrip

Gym climber
joshua tree, ca
Mar 12, 2008 - 10:30am PT
*** THIS LIST LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK.

1
2
3
4
5

JTCRIP

JT IS LOVELY FOR PICNICING, BUT UGLY FOR CLIMBING.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 12, 2008 - 10:46am PT
Some that stand out in the memory of a very occasional visitor --

[url="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=473535&tn=0"]Figures on a Landscape[/url]
I Can't Believe It's a Girdle
Diamondback
Solid Gold
Illusion Dweller
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Mar 12, 2008 - 12:04pm PT
From actual experience?

Lickety Split
Walk On the Wild Side
The Chief -- best 5.5 in the park
Route 66 -- best 5.4 in the park
Catch a Falling Star

worst:
Not Worth Your Pile
Carolyn's Rump
Gargoyle
Route 1326
That 5.0 trough thing on the far left side of Echo Rock
drc

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 12, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
My favorites in no particular order:

Bird on a Wire
Illusion Dweller
Heart n Sole
Aguile de Joshua Tree
Chasm of Doom
Hootervillian

climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
Mar 12, 2008 - 02:48pm PT
Routes-
Touch and Go
Solid Gold
The Eye (must be done every evening)
Mental Physics
Big Moe

BPs-
Stem Gem
Fry Problem
Slashface
White Rastafarian
All Washed Up
atchafalaya

climber
Babylon
Mar 12, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
Bird of Fire
Coarse and Buggy
Clean and Jerk
Big Moe
Illusion Dweller
klk

Trad climber
cali
Mar 12, 2008 - 02:59pm PT
figures
beaver
equinox
clean+jerk
caveman
stem gem
rasta
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 12, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
Rubicon
Bird of Fire
Clean and Jerk
Run For Your Life
Touch and Go

My faves of the ones I have done...
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Mar 12, 2008 - 08:39pm PT
Totally forgot about South of Heaven.

It was made famous by Epi's photo, but deserves the fame just as much for the climbing.

Most definitely worth the walk.
rbob

climber
Mar 12, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
no one has mentioned Hot Rocks?

That climb is pretty spectacular...
Anastasia

Trad climber
Califlower/Utahlah
Mar 12, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
My favorite are...

Double Cross
Illusion Dweller
South of Heaven
Crimping Lessons
... and something "poodle."




le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Mar 12, 2008 - 10:51pm PT
Bird on a Wire, good call great route
Chasm of Doom, another good call, best top out in full moon
Orange Flake
Illusion Dweller
Right Ski Track to top at sunset

Coarse and Buggy, Bird of Fire, Exorcist, Mental Physics all runners up. Dog Leg is better than Double Cross but doesn't make the list.

Hobbit Hole is a fun boulder problem
Anastasia

Trad climber
Califlower/Utahlah
Mar 12, 2008 - 10:52pm PT
Hobbit Hole!
Love that one...

Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
Apple Valley, California
Mar 12, 2008 - 10:56pm PT
Illusion Dweller,
Course and Buggy,
Run for your life,
Figures on a Landscape,
Solid Gold.



Cosmic
Mike.

climber
Mar 12, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
C&J
Swept Away
RfYL
FoaL
WotWS



Not that I've done many.


Hey Dwain, wassup!
x15x15

climber
Mar 12, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
i like:

'right on' (gots to be one of the best)
'hot rocks' is spectacular (but not really)
'heaven can wait' is one of the best
'yardy hoo and away" too
and...
and...
and...
and...
wait a minute, compared to everywhere else this place only offers choss...

dont get yer hopes up too high.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
Mar 13, 2008 - 12:55am PT
Middle Age Crazy
Split Personality
Black President
Natural Selection
Count Dracula

In no order, plus a ton of others...
say-no-to-rap-bolting!

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
ok...
here's a first result:
1.figures on a landscape (mentioned 9 times)
2.illusion dweller / coarse and buggy (7)
4.run for your life/clean and jerk (5)
6.equinox (4)

post your favorites so the list gets a little representive!;)


go climb a rock
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Mar 13, 2008 - 03:48pm PT
yeah, i was gonna say, why dontchya lend me 5 bucks?
CAC

Gym climber
Clairemont
Mar 13, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
Figures on a Landscape
Crack Queen
Imaginary Voyage
Rubicon
Episcopalian Toothpick

Can't believe it's a Girdle is classic in a "never again" kind of way...
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Apr 8, 2008 - 04:00pm PT
Figures
O Kelleys
Rubicon
The Reverend Dick Shook ("hardest 5.7 and worst rock in the Mon,"Eppie)
Librarian Lust
After Beckey
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
Apr 8, 2008 - 07:25pm PT
resisted responding to this when it first went up because there are too many and my top 5 changes with every trip. with that said, off the top:

I Can't Believe It's a Girdle
White Rain
Swept Away
Firewater Chimney
Grain Surgery

Honorable mention:
sidewinder
and dozens more
Wheatus

Social climber
CA
Apr 8, 2008 - 07:54pm PT
My two cents:
Illusion Dweller
Touch & Go
Exorist
Solid Gold


I liked Equinox too....except it was C1 not 5.12d. Nice clean aid practice when it is 30 degrees in JT.

Man, I tried to pull a few free moves on Equinox but that crack is a meat grinder. I guess some people love pain.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 8, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
Wow,
With the exception of several frequent nominees, lots of variety. Mine:

Figures
O'Kelley's
Mental Physics
Sidewinder
Equinox

Lots of other nominees--Coarse and Buggy, Run for Your Life, Hot Rock, Illusion Dweller--are awesome climbs, but these lists are so subjective.

Thought Black President was OK, but not top 5, same with Imaginary Voyage. I think Wangerbanger is a far better climb than both.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 8, 2008 - 09:38pm PT
I think Top 40 to Middle Toilet holds in my heart the position of being the worst.

My top 5:
1) Wonderland
2) Real Hidden Valley
3) Saddle Rocks
4) Echo Rock and surrounding areas
5) Pinto Valley

(shucks, I guess I had to leave out the Ranger Station and areas...)


PS. From the Bong to Stingray, I get it ;-)
fletch lives

Social climber
south lake tahoe
Apr 8, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
leave it to beaver
bikini whale
the eye
figures
big moe
fletch f. fletch
jack splat

climber
Apr 8, 2008 - 10:16pm PT
Rubicon
Father Figure
Split Personality
Leave it to Beaver
Heart of Darkness
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Apr 8, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
Illusion Dweller
Right on (right on!)
Loose Lady
Boussionier (spelling???)
False Hueco
lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 8, 2008 - 10:37pm PT
Colorado Crack
Walk On The Wild Side
Mental Physics
Dappled Mare
Lost In The Wonderland
Leavittator

climber
san diego, ca.
Apr 9, 2008 - 12:36am PT
Acid Crack
Equinox
Leave It To Beaver
Book Of Brilliant Things
Dihedron
onyourleft

Social climber
SmogAngeles
Apr 9, 2008 - 01:39am PT
I'm surprised this one hasn't made an appearance in the thread:

Moosedog Tower - Direct South Face

3 Pitches - 5.9 roof crux - freehanging rap finish.
Big T

Trad climber
Running Springs, CA
Apr 9, 2008 - 02:02am PT
Illusion Dweller
Figures
Hot Rocks
Clean and Jerk
O'Kelley's
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Apr 9, 2008 - 02:53am PT
Jingy writes...."Then there was that one that Chris and Will put me on. Some crack that went around a corner, exposed as hell, to a head-wall traverse. SUPER EXPOSED!!! I'm not even sure I was able to finish this one... fear of death!"

That was "Around the World" at the Zebra Cliffs. How could you forget?




Oakley

Trad climber
CA
Apr 9, 2008 - 04:47am PT
Wait, no one's mentioned 'Bat Crack'?

The first pitch is a shredding chimney (which is any chimney in Jtree). The second pitch is a never-ending, ankle bloody-ing, awkwardly low-low-angle crack which introduces you intimately to Quartz Monzonite.

The top of the first pitch ends in a literal bat cave, where hundreds of large mice carcasses line the floor next to the Guano.
I can't understand why no one ever does it.

It's so rotten, it's great!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Apr 9, 2008 - 10:18am PT
say-no-to-rap-bolting,

Will you be checking to make sure that your tick list has no rap bolted climbs on it?
SteveW

Trad climber
State of confusion
Apr 9, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
Crimpie
Love that name "Poodles are people too".
Reminds me of blueswoman Marcia Ball's "Let me play with your
poodle" album!
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Apr 11, 2008 - 01:07am PT
Sooze - Let's just say I put it in the same place as all the rest of my childhood traumas!
Grant Meisenholder

Trad climber
CA
Apr 11, 2008 - 10:55am PT
I'm surprised Brutus didn't mention Nereltne (next to Hot Rocks)

The problem with JTree is that few of the climbs are pure from the ground up. Most have a few really great moves and the rest is just getting there.

My vote for best routes are

Perpetual Motion
Heart & Sole
Dangling Wu Li Masters
Loose Lucy
Hot Rocks
Illusion Dweller
say-no-to-rap-bolting!

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
survival.
no. this is about what climbs you liked best not if they had a first ascent or a first rappel.
I've not the least problem with the fact that some people like rap-bolted climbs, especially if the climbing is enjoyable. Some people just don't care. Although, for me those routes mostly don't have the same spirit...

cheers

bl
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Nov 17, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
Tis the season bump.

Wangerbanger - Perfect rock, overhanging crack of all sizes
Imaginary Voyage - Beyond memorable. Outstanding position.
Heart of Darkness - Fingers to thinhands, overhanging clean rock
Throbbing Gristle - Clean double overhanging 7", best OW in JT?
Equinox - amazing splitter in tranquil place, super painful.

The beaver probably deserves a spot in there, but I've never been on it. You can tell I'm not a big fan of the face/slab routes from this list.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 17, 2008 - 03:02pm PT
I'll try for five good one's which have not been mentioned here yet (unless I missed it.)

Space Mountain
Count Dracula
Yellow Brick Road
Snake Book
Raging Bull Dike
Jay Hack

Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
Nov 17, 2008 - 03:12pm PT
Coarse and Buggy
Illusion Dweller
Imaginary Voyage
Run for your Life
Rubicon

and, well, really the sw corner of the Headstone is just that much fun!
Chris2

Trad climber
Nov 17, 2008 - 03:15pm PT
Geronimo has to be about the most unique 5.7 pretty much anywhere. Think about it:

Upside down 5.7 crack.
Amazing exposure.
Short but so fun.
Stones throw from the campground.
Great protection.
Fun place to hangout.

I first met Peter Croft after he had been doing laps on that climb. As he described it to me, his passion for this short, sweet route really gave me a look into this good mans soul.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 17, 2008 - 03:21pm PT
Touch and Go
Rubicon
Roadside Attraction
Wangerbanger
Heart of Darkness

Top 5 that I've not done, but would probably make the list if I had (ahem...could have) done them 'cause they look amazing...

Imaginary Voyage
Course and Buggy
Tumbling Rainbow
Equinox
Mental Physics

Bottom 5

Traversing slab climbs.
Any slab climb.
Cracks that are actually grooves that climb and protect like slabs.
5 star climbs with hour-long approaches that end up only being 20 feet tall.
The climb next to the person trying to kill themself and/or their partner.

junior

Trad climber
Modesto. CA
Nov 17, 2008 - 03:33pm PT
1. leave it to beaver
2. big moe
3. swept away
4. illusion dweller
5. more monkey than funky
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 17, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
Good list, Melissa, though I've never done Mental physics or Roadside attraction, but the rest are very cool. Everrbody else, too.

As a select few will concur, Throbbing Gristle, even with it's approach, is one of the best routes in the Park, at least the short distance up it I have been. Like all first rate Offwidths, it gets no stars in the guidebook.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Nov 17, 2008 - 04:10pm PT
"5 star climbs with hour-long approaches that end up only being 20 feet tall."

LOL. That descriptor has gotta be Room to Shroom.
Sluggo

Big Wall climber
zanadu
Nov 17, 2008 - 04:28pm PT
Melissa - when you embrace the cerebral qualities of slab climbing Josh will be a worthwhile destination.

* note offwidth thugs - Throbbing Gristle is a toprope - please lead this (jaybro)!
Chris2

Trad climber
Nov 17, 2008 - 04:32pm PT
Melissa may be remembering her early days on that 5.6 slab climb over at Echo.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 17, 2008 - 05:30pm PT
Despite efforts to punish myself into enjoying it, most of my slab climbing is remembered unfondly.

Chris...how do you know about my ugly beginnings at Echo...or is that just a lucky guess?

If you guys do WideFest this year, I'd like to try TRing the famous Gristle. It's been built up to mythic proportions. Jaybro, what climb in the gym do you recommend to train for it? }:-)
Chris2

Trad climber
Nov 17, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
Only because you asked...

I saw you crying and was worried about you.

I was over on Touch and Go.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 17, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
I was a pretty big ass on that climb. And after it too. Thanks for your concern, but I was really just being an idiot, unfortunately. I guess my memories of that trip have been mostly replaced by the fun stuff. I miss my old partner, Justin Shields (where is he?), now that I'm thinking about it!

I don't know too many climbing Chrisses and knew fewer then. Which one are you?
Nate Ricklin

climber
San Diego
Nov 17, 2008 - 06:42pm PT
Left Ski Track
Hot Rocks
Poodles are People Too
Imaginary Voyage
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 17, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
My "rude post" for the day:

Anyone who can seriously propose Heart of Darkness for a top 5 Josh list has obviously never climbed at The Needles. Talk about the miniature golf of climbing. Jeez...

OK, I'm feeling better now...

Cheers.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 17, 2008 - 08:20pm PT
I've climbed at the Needles. Which Joshua Tree climbs should the Needles have made me like more? I should probably go try them.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 17, 2008 - 08:28pm PT
Sluggo, age, (and beauty, come to think of it) before... whatever; Scuffy will be leading the Gristle way before me. It would be easy to pro, especially if you had a Rack Caddy™.

Melissa can't go with us, cause she'd run up it on sight, and wonder what the fuss was about.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 17, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
" Which Joshua Tree climbs should the Needles have made me like more? "

A great question in response to my silly rant...

How about:

Rock Candy (It's not a continuous crack, but it is kind of Needles like in a way, and very high quality and a bit sustained for it's grade.)

Snake Book (Short, but still long enough to be out of the "miniature golf" category. Very nice clean corner with good but tiny pro like you often have to use at The Needles, plus you have to walk a distance to get to it.)

Black President (Again, the combo of an actual approach, a bolt protected face move to finger locks and gear...)

Such a Savage and Middle Age Crazy offer up Josh's version of the longish pitches of exposed face climbing one finds at The Needles. Of course the hike is too short.

Insomnia. Oh wait. That's not in Josh. Nevermind.

Cheers.

Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Nov 17, 2008 - 08:51pm PT
So many cool climbs to choose from...

Bird of Fire
Colorado Crack
Bird on a Wire
Feltonian Physics
Cake Walk
matisse

climber
Nov 17, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
coarse and buggy
29 palms
popular mechanics(can you tell I like dihedrals?)
heart of darkness (must be a girl thang,cuz I've climbed at the Needles too)
SW Corner

edited to say can I have one more
poodles are people too
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Nov 30, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
The official "Big Five" are:

Rubicon
Perpetual Motion
Coarse and Buggy
O'Kellys Crack
Clean and Jerk

A super fun day is to go climb 'em all, preferably where each climber leads all five. A delightful tour of Josh!
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Nov 30, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
equinox
illusion
cryptic
saddle rock....I really like that 5.5 or whatever it is. has a sense of adventure
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Nov 30, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
ahhh...

"Tumbling Rainbow"...

an ALL TIME FAVORITE of mine...

especially the "TUMBLING" part of the climb...

that IS what you're SUPPOSED to do isn't it???...
10b4me

climber
the gray bands
Nov 30, 2008 - 03:06pm PT
saddle rock....I really like that 5.5 or whatever it is. has a sense of adventure

Right On
10b4me

climber
the gray bands
Nov 30, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
there are way more than five, but some of my fun ones are:
Tip Toe
Touch and Go-definitely
WOTWS
Black Tide
Sail Away
Honorable mention-Split Personality, Rock Candy
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Dec 1, 2008 - 01:58am PT

Gotta plug Orange Flake again since Sheep has come up. If you're looking for something different, it's way better than Right On imo, and there won't be anyone else on it.

Always wondered if Space Mountain was good, now it's definitely on the radar.

Another one to file under "hour approach for 20 ft of climbing" would be Hex Marks the Poot out on one of the Astros. Great climb though and there is a second pitch.

Fisticuffs taught me to fist jam but it could use another 60 ft or so.

Sweet, sweet bivy on top of Mental Physics/Lenticular if you want to sleep somewhere remote, windswept, and starlit with your partner.

Every time I drive past Hemmingway I remember the times I saw M Reardon climbing the hell out of it: up Overseer, down Feltonian; up Scary Poodles, down White Lightning...

Misa

Trad climber
SJ
Dec 1, 2008 - 03:03am PT
Can't argue with anyone's picks. They are all why we go back for more abrasion year after year. This is kind of off topic, but does anyone know the name and rating of a newish bolted route next to Cherry Bomb? Misa (the woefully ignorant as usual)
pud

climber
Sportbikeville
Dec 1, 2008 - 11:01am PT
Because they all offer different qualities, I can't say I have "favorites" but I do repeat these routes the most : )
* Lady Fingers
* Chalk up another one
* Bird on a wire
* Heart and sole
* Toxic avenger
tinker b

climber
your local park
Dec 1, 2008 - 11:15am PT
1. illusion dweller
2. dog leg
3. heart of darkness (partialy for the location and the view...it is a bit short)
4. hot rocks
5. caught outside on a large set

honorable mentions
skinny dip
double cross
toe jam
the flake
wanger banger
o'kelley's
those ones up at the white cliffs of dover
gun smoke
run for your life
knight in shining armor
hercules
light saber
uncle so and so's deep sea fish market
rock work orange
equinox
touch and go
ebgbs
figures on a landscape
the creeping jew
and i love walking a long way to get to a climb, i love being out in the desert with noone else around, i love it when the descent is more difficult then the climb, i love my friends who come back every year, i love lying in the sun in the rocks...that is why i love jtree and obviosly we all climb for different reasons and are different people, so of course we would like different things. joshua tree is about loving it for what it is and not comparing it to something else.
if you didn't look through the crack of heart of darkness and see what it framed, and instead just saw how short it was, well then yeah i guess you would be disapointed. indian creek has nice long crack, yosemite is so huge and unbeleivable, but there is magic in jtree that makes us return, and i guess it is how you look at things.
PRRose

climber
Boulder
Dec 1, 2008 - 11:51am PT
Top five

Figures on a Landscape
EBGBs
Swept Away
Solid Gold
Hot Rocks

Second top five

Such a Savage
Big Moe
Touch and Go
Clean and Jerk
Ionic Strength
BanDecho

climber
Oakland
Dec 1, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
I can't believe nobody has mentioned Swept Away, by far and away one of the best climbs in J-Tree. It is hard to keep it to just five but here it goes.

Swept Away
Wanger Banger
Figures in a Landscape
EBGB's
Street Car
Walk on the Wild Side
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Dec 1, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
There are too many routes in Josh to narrow a list of favorites to only 5. But the above stated sentiment of long hikes, remote locations, solitude and great scenery (and good routes) being top criteria echo my feelings too. It is the entire experience.

Some favorites include:
Mohave Queen
White Rain
Black Diamond
Spirited Away
Firewater Chimney
Such A Savage
Figures on a Landscape
Black President
The Poodle Smasher
Coarse and Buggy
Leave It To Beaver
Illusion Dweller
Hidden Arch
Catapult
Natural Selection
Where Have All the Cowboys Gone

Rudder

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Dec 1, 2008 - 03:17pm PT
If you've climbed it... you gotta put Figures as #1.

Figures on a Landscape
Illusion Dweller
Solid Gold
Run for your Life
Sail Away

Sidewinder
Headstone Rock (SW corner)
Loose Lady
Such a Savage
Rollerball
Hobbit Roof
Double Cross
Dogleg
Northwest Overhang
Touch and Go
Pope's Crack
Heart and Soul
Walk on the Wild Side
Cheap way to Die
Direct South Face Moosedog
Mental Physics
Gem
Invisibilty Lessons

And so many more... JT, just a magic place.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 1, 2008 - 03:21pm PT
There is only one climb in Josh,
like all the best it gets no stars.



tinker b

climber
your local park
Dec 1, 2008 - 03:24pm PT
what is that jaybro?
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Dec 1, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
Find a climb with a few stars and at the hairy edge of your onsight limit and it will become the best climb in JTree for you.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 1, 2008 - 04:20pm PT
Throbbing Gristle, .12ow, Scuffyb on a strong attempt Sunday.
tinker b

climber
your local park
Dec 1, 2008 - 04:39pm PT
and what part of the park? it's on my tick list now, allthough it must be a lot harder then centerion and that was scary i thought.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 1, 2008 - 04:47pm PT
Way harder, it's in the Vogel '92 page 471 in hte Loveland area, we take the road approach ~1hr.
Bill Becher

Trad climber
Westlake Village, CA
Dec 2, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
For moderates:

Sail Away - classic crack
Mental Physics (worth the walk)
Walk on the Wild Side (classic slab)
Headstone SW corner(lots of adrenaline for a 5.6 and a great view at the top)
Dappled Mare - not many long climbs at One Pitch Wonderland, this is another superclassic

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 2, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
Throbbing Gristle beta page:
http://www.widefetish.com/routes/throbbing/throbbing_gristle.html
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 2, 2008 - 03:23pm PT
I really liked Grit Roof

I heard the heelhook flake has broken off since the 90s, though?
10b4me

climber
the gray bands
Dec 2, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
I forgot to add Mental Physics- a can't miss for the grade(imo)
Lickety Splits is a fun, runout route. you gotta lead it to experience the fun.
Phil Winterson

Trad climber
Manhattan Beach, CA
Dec 4, 2008 - 01:24am PT
Figures on a Landscape
Bird on Fire
Illusion Dweller
Solid Gold
Exorcist

Worst climb - Orange Flake
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Dec 4, 2008 - 03:56am PT
Told the girl, you do the splits, and I'll do the ....lickity?

Can I say that?
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 6, 2008 - 07:55pm PT
A few more....
Cryptic
Icon
Fisticuffs
Double Cross
Slippery When Wet
Treasure of the Sierra Madre
Blackjack
Nightmare on Angione Street
Dos Chichis
Yasmine Bleath
King of Jesters, Jester to Kings
NML81

Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
Dec 6, 2008 - 08:15pm PT
The last 5 that I climbed.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 6, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
Nightmare on Angione Street......CLASSIC....a real sleeper....and right in the campground too......a must do for any local hopeful...............(snicker, snicker...wink, wink...)
RtM

Boulder climber
DHS
Dec 9, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
this thread has been burning in my mind since I first read it 2 week ago, can't stand it anymore!!

heres my 2cents

1. Figures on a Landscape
2. Leave it to Beaver
3. Bird of Fire
4. Equinox
5. White Rain

then my backup

6. Black Diamond
7. Dangling Woo Li Master
8. South of Heaven ('cept for that 1 little thing!)
9. Wangerbanger
10. Ocean of Doubt (most amazing location of any route in JTree)

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Dec 9, 2008 - 01:32pm PT
My list is pretty hackneyed but my favorites so far are:

-Taxman
-Rubicon
-Bird of Fire
-Illusion Dweller
-Alf's Arete

Now, if I only get on Alf's on lead next time...

The most overhyped is certainly 2XCross, but that is not a new thought. I thought Dogleg was much better. The Flake on IR seems somewhat like an overlooked climb as well.
Peener

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Dec 10, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
Figures on a Landscape
Coarse and Buggy
Bee Bog Tango
O Kelly's Crack
Illusion Dweller
Clean and Jerk
Run For your Life
EBGB's
Rubicon
Bird Of Fire
Alfs Arete
Pat Adams Dihedral
Dos Chi Chis
Lesbian Lust
Imaginary Voyage
Bish
Walk on The Wild Side
Space Mountain
Touch and Go
Perfect Fingers
Solid Gold
there way too many bad ass climbs to choose from
these are all really good though
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 10, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
For a place with only 60 good routes and really only one real one, worth putting your soul into, at least for now, there's some good sheit to do there.
Gnat

climber
Smell A
Dec 10, 2008 - 11:12pm PT
Handren Tried It
scuffy b

climber
On the dock in the dark
Dec 11, 2008 - 11:21am PT
Right on, Jaybro, some really nice consolation prizes.
sethsquatch76

Trad climber
Joshua tree ca
Sep 22, 2011 - 06:57am PT
Imaginary Voyage
Skinny Dip
Totally Tubular
Meres Tail
The Eye

Seth Zaharias
http://www.cliffhangerguides.com
lucander

Trad climber
New England
Sep 23, 2011 - 12:05am PT
I've only done a hundred or so, but here's my 2 pennies

Figures on a Landscape
Sidewinder
Rubicon
Official Route of the 1984 Olympics
Solid Gold

hon. mention to Coarse & Buggy

D. L.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Sep 23, 2011 - 12:06am PT
One.

Out of the last five I've done.



That seems to be about the correct ratio.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 23, 2011 - 12:31am PT
Figures on a Landscape
Rubicon
Space Mountain
Illusion Dweller
Icon
Black Diamond
Bloodline

and a crap load I haven't done yet
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 23, 2011 - 11:16am PT
Double Cross
Dogleg
Dandelion
Deviate
Orphan


[I don't like to walk far.]


But then again, I did think Jamaican Bobsled was a full on giggle.
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