Top Ten Towers to climb

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rich sims

Trad climber
co
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 4, 2008 - 12:04am PT
So let's see a list of the top ten or twenty must climb towers in Utarado
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho
Mar 4, 2008 - 12:57am PT
I was tryin', but every tower I've been on has been 'The Best Tower in the Desert'. Even the chossy ones, like the Kingfisher. I wanta go back to that land sometime.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Mar 4, 2008 - 01:59am PT
The Moses Tower in Canyonlands has to make the list. Particularly via Primrose Dihedrals.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 4, 2008 - 02:32am PT
Medicine Man, CNM, for a route on a tower, if not the tower itself.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 4, 2008 - 05:41am PT
Spider Rock, Totem Pole, Titan, Cleopatra, Texas Tower, Moses, Castleton, Standing Rock, Ancient Arts, N. Sixshooter....


Ancient Arts


Totem Pole


Titan


Standing rock


Titan




Moses


Titan


Cleopatra


Standing Rock
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Mar 4, 2008 - 08:01am PT
Hey TG,

Where is Texas Tower?

Prod.
rick d

Social climber
tucson, az
Mar 4, 2008 - 08:58am PT
the trilogy, spider rock, cleopatra's needle, and the totem pole but note all are illegal and cleo you might get an ok to do

Mace, sedona

Texas tower (s utah, arch canyon)

the new route on the Pope will clean up real nice

mexican hat

I like Dr Rubo's a lot (sedona)

and some others already said in the moab area
say-no-to-rap-bolting!

Trad climber
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:11am PT
torre trieste italy dolomites
fantastic!
neverseen the desert towers though.
the tre cime (dolomites) are great towers too, probably the most famous in the world. their north faces are amazing classics, and some are still bolt-free.



Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:40am PT
Totem Pole


N. sixshooter

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:42am PT
The Pope

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:43am PT
The Pole


Cleo

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:47am PT
Spider Rock

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:48am PT
Cleo

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:50am PT
N. Six.


Pole

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:55am PT
Spider


paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:58am PT
todd, i must say those are some of the sweetest pics...mmmm towers...
That's Papajoto to you son!!!!!

Social climber
Oatmeal Arizona
Mar 4, 2008 - 10:06am PT
Texas Tower
Images are in reverse. Sorry


pj
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho
Mar 4, 2008 - 10:20am PT
Washer Woman Arch. Me thinks it's the only named arch in a national park where climbing is legal.

You get to face climb her, um, face.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Mar 4, 2008 - 11:53am PT
THE Pole, Moses, Castleton, Priest, N. Sixshooter, The Pope,The Titan, Kingfisher, Echo Tower, Shangri La........
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 4, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
I like Todd's list, although I don't know much about Texas Tower.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/texas_canyon/105717069

Candidates for #11:

 Zeus
 Islet in the Sky

On Moses, Pale Fire looks like better climbing than Primrose Dihedrals. Now, if I could just get there when it's warm enough to climb on that shady side....

I'm 4/10 on Todd's list.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
Bozeman
Mar 4, 2008 - 01:02pm PT
The Priest!!!
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Mar 4, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
Have to add Standing Rock in Monument Basin.

Agree with most others. Also add Pixie Stick in Monument Basin as a real cool, small summit.

Paul
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Mar 4, 2008 - 07:39pm PT






Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Mar 4, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
Great thread bump.

I'm bumping again as soon as I see this hit page 2.

Prod.
Prod

Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
Mar 5, 2008 - 08:00am PT
Bump!
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Mar 5, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
sweet
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Mar 5, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
While all of those are cool and all, I'm gonna have to say this one trumps all of those. Location alone, yo...


Why not another to get people thinking about things off of this continent...

GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Mar 5, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
Great thread, great pics!

How about a variation on the theme - best "date" tower in the Moab area. This means: no likely epics, not too much loose rock, no climbing harder than 5.9, no long and horrible approaches, and any offwidth or squeeze-chimney should be of the quickly-gotten-though variety.

I know it's a lot to ask, but any suggestions might help make a day very very special.

GO
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Mar 5, 2008 - 02:55pm PT
Owl Rock in Arches
from the 25 second approach to the 5.8 vertical face climbing to the free-hanging rap this thing just screams "I am a rock climber! Sleep with me!"
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Mar 5, 2008 - 03:22pm PT
More like fins then towers but the Garden should make the top ten for Colotah.



Your lead Christine!

fgw

Trad climber
portland, or
Mar 5, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
not sandstone but memorable for "adventure" feel:


Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Mar 5, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
Wow! Where's that, fgw?
fgw

Trad climber
portland, or
Mar 5, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
Cascade foothills of Oregon. This is the Turkey Monster.
John Moosie

climber
Mar 5, 2008 - 05:33pm PT
Great thread. Thanks for the pictures everyone.

"Owl Rock in Arches
from the 25 second approach to the 5.8 vertical face climbing to the free-hanging rap this thing just screams "I am a rock climber! Sleep with me!"

hahahaha ...Too funny.
rich sims

Trad climber
co
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2008 - 10:08pm PT
Thank to All

The quest starts the end of the month on my birthday
Rich
L

climber
Malibu, baby....in a Cheetah shirt
Mar 5, 2008 - 11:19pm PT
fgw--That's an amazing photo of the Turkey!
MZiebell

Social climber
Prescott, AZ
Mar 6, 2008 - 08:06am PT
Bump!
72hw

Trad climber
Hollyweird, CA
Mar 6, 2008 - 11:30am PT
Anyone have anything to say about Castleton Tower near Moab? My wife and I think the Kor-Ingalls route and the North Chimney look interesting.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/castle_valley/105717289

fgw

Trad climber
portland, or
Mar 6, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
Thanks L.
Turkey is an amazing tower. If it were around Moab, it would be classic tic for tower baggers. As it is, it's largely invisible and very rarely climbed.
andy@climbingmoab

Big Wall climber
Park City, UT
Mar 7, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
Castleton is great and is most people's first desert tower. It gets pretty crowded, but everyone has to climb it someday. I personally much prefer the North Chimney to Kor-Ingalls, but both routes are good. Do the Priest just down the ridge to up the adventure factor a bit.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 7, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
I made the FA of Owl Rock more than 30 years ago, and as many times as I have climbed it since I have had to resort to alternate aphrodisiacs.

Maybe I'm not screaming it right?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 8, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
My friend called this Airport Tower but I couldn't find it in the Desert Rock book? It's near Moab. we didn't climb it the next morning as Alex had allready done it twice. we did a pretty cool one arround the corner called Waldens Room. It buggs me and I need to get up it someday.....
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 8, 2008 - 03:03pm PT
Airport Towers (AKA Echo Pinnacle and Aeolian Tower).....Desert Rock (Blue One) Wall Street to San Rafael Swell P. 149-151. And Original Desert Rock p.P. 229. I did the Echo Pinnacle (Window Route III5.10+) with Lori Graf in the early 1980's ....it's a good one with climbing through the window at the top of pitch one, and a cool chimney window section on pitch two.......It's called Airport Towers because you can see them from the Moab Airport.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 8, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
Easter Island; Alex Spencer climbing
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Mar 8, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
All the towers mentioned are good. A little known tower that's had just a couple of ascents, is Arch Tower, which is quite close to Texas Tower. It's a beautiful formation, and one of the most difficult of all the desert spires.

-ArchingJello
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 8, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
So Jello says you should drive your 4X4 up Arch Canyon to go do the tower,...




(just kidding, its a touchy subject to some)
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 8, 2008 - 10:41pm PT
Owl Rock showing it's sex apeal April 2003
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 8, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
Looks like a woman wearing a giant stumpy diseased penis for a hat.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 9, 2008 - 07:35am PT
That Was Autum and it was her first or 2nd? tower. There was annother short little thing up on Comb ridge that we brought her up that trip. We had to clean up and mind our manners for a few days but it was kind of nice. We got some nice meals and she even did our dishes though I thought that Bella (the dog) had been doing a fine job of that all allong.
Michael D

Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
Mar 10, 2008 - 05:18am PT
S-N-T-R-Bolting, right-on dude! Climbed on the Tre Cime di Laverado with Jeffie last spring. Hmmm, there was a real soggy belay halfway up, then an awesome chimney that gave a .75 at about 110 ft, with the belay stance 10 feet further up around the chockstone! No bolts, but rusty pins on occasion.

My fav is Meteora, Heileger Geist. Did it with my wife and daughter for chuckles, the rap descent puts you right into a Hermitage site.

Cheers, Michael
fgw

Trad climber
portland, or
Mar 10, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
Steins Pillar in Oregon - again not sandstone but a pretty cool formation nevertheless:
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 21, 2008 - 10:55am PT
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 14, 2014 - 12:50am PT
bump
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
May 29, 2015 - 08:38am PT
Since I've only done five of them I'm probably not qualified to judge the top ten, however four of them have already been mentioned up thread. One that hasn't been mentioned yet and is one of my favorites is The Three Penguins in Arches.



In fact I like it so much I've done it three times. What's not to like? It has convenience, nice views, a killer hand crack, some offwidth all on an undeniably interesting formation.


mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 29, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
I want to play. Vertigo Mini CobraOf Course Devils TowerSteepleEyetoothSpire Two, Spire One and Balcony PointSouth Tower and Spire 4Inner Outlet and the East Summit of Inner OutletEast GruesomeGrandpa, Grandma, the Wicked Picket, Buttonhole, and the rest of the Picket Fence. about 85 other great summits in the Cathedral Spires I am leaving outespecially Kayyam and Rubyatt
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
May 29, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
Hey Mike,

I thought they told you to cut that out on company time, ha, ha. Caught you!

Just kidding.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 29, 2015 - 01:36pm PT
What's up Steve? A little lunch time ST never hurt anyone.
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Oct 8, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
BBST
Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic
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