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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 3, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
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More aid questions for the wall wizards: Is there a certain way to set the length for sawed off angles or can you just cut them however on a chop saw?
Is a sawed off angle the same thing as a baby angle?
thanks
murf
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Negative Murf,
there are actually 2 sizes of "baby" angle, 5/8" and 1/2".
Partners that can't tell the dif and send the wrong one up the trail drive me up the wall.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Make sure you round off the bottom of the pin after cutting them. They are cut to approximately 1/2 there original length, and it's typically the 3/4" and 1" pins that are sawed off.
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Mimi
climber
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A prized item on some routes. I remember them being a priority, the fun we had making a few up, and being psyched knowing they were in the arsenal. Please try and get something else in first, however, before knocking them in. The goal is not to nail. Right fellas?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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To elaborate on Ron's comment, a true baby angle is 1/2", while the 5/8" variety is often called a "stubby". At least that's what we used to called them up here.
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Cloudraker
Big Wall climber
BC
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I don't know about them angles but this is a stubby where I come from.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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That's a DEFECTIVE stubby - no beer.
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Mimi
climber
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No, just a liberated stubby. I really didn't want to go down the stubby path tonight.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Sometimes, 1/2” and 5/8” sawed-offs work really well in small shallow scars.
You can also create what I call... the secret expando weapon. Take a 1/2” angle and grind off about 1/8” along the entire length of the pin (don’t saw it off first). This leaves you with a 3/8” angle – lighter than the equivalent sized arrow and better holding power (angles flex…). I found that they were key on some freshy expando features.
Just be sure that whenever you are grinding pins or hooks, that you keep the metal cool. Unlike high-speed-steel drill bits, pins and hooks are made of cro-moly steel that has been heat-treated (tempered). If you get a pin or hook too hot while grinding (the metal turns blue and purple colors…) you will destroy the heat-treating and thus, weaken and soften the metal. Keep a bowl of cold water close and continually dip the pin or hook to cool it off as you grind.
Happy nailing!
Edit: The chop-saw might be a candidate for overheating the metal. Be careful.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Hoser has it right - 5/8" are stubbies. Brick used to sell its Waterloo Dark in stubbies a few years ago, but I think they went back to regular bottles which is a darn shame.
For babies and stubbies, I have two sizes of sawed-offs - one where I take of 40% of the blade, and another where I've only taken off 25% [a semi-sawed-off]. I've gone through several sets of these over the years - eventually they get beat out and flattened, and split down the middle.
For 3/4" standards - the one you will use the most - you take off more like 50%, but again I have three different lengths.
For 1" about the same.
On El Cap I hugely prefer regular BD angles, I don't like those little short ones you buy that are "already" sawed-offs. I think they are Euro made, can't remember.
Once your S.O.'s get really beat, they will flatten out a bit, and sometimes these are handy for unusual placements.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Here's a pic of 3/4 and 1" std and sawed offs. I think I cut off roughly 1/3 of the pins.
While the caution about overheating is valid, as you can see a chop saw and angle grinder barely heated up the steel at the tip of the pin. And you'd really have to put alot of effort into heating the pin enough to aneal the whole thing.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
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Thanks you guys. this helps me alot. My partner Barto is too shy to post so he's going to have to buy me a few of those unliberated stubbies
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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May 18, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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this thread is virtually worthless without photos
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 18, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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A different stubby? With chicken and rivet hanger...
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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May 18, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
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i just don't want to know where the other half of those sawed offs went
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splitter
Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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May 19, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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don't waste or toss the tips of the sawed offs. you can weld two together (and drill, file, cut or stamp an eye/best to do is file or cut on each side before you weld) and they sometimes bite/wedge well in shallow, flared cracks. oh yeah, i forgot, now ya got them springy thingy's...never mind!
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Bargainhunter
climber
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May 19, 2013 - 04:06am PT
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I have used the sawed off ends (with a hole drilled in them) as body weight only pieces. They worked fine on the NA wall. The tiny hole was the limiting factor as it was sharp and couldn't take a very thick cord. Perhaps if you Nicopress a wire through it instead of a piece of accessory cord, it will hold better in a fall. I am sure my accessory cord would have blown in a real whipper.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 17, 2014 - 07:50am PT
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Jimmy Newberry tried to sell me on using the sawed off tips with cable loops.
He called them "ravens".
I asked him why and he said, "because you'd have to be a raven lunatic to actually try to use one."
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 17, 2014 - 01:28pm PT
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Toker, Mr Villain, I want to start a Utah appreciation Thread
if you would like to that would seem more fitting
Did you do Astroman in sept '87 ??
get back to me at the new thread
0r right here.
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