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Jacko
Trad climber
Grass Valley Ca.
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Feb 22, 2008 - 10:26pm PT
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Thank's Zander,TR's are the reason I tune in and you have put out some great one's...Jacko
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Feb 23, 2008 - 02:52am PT
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Damn, this just grows my hard-on for a route in the ribbon falls area and in the bridalveil area. Best perspective I've seen on the ribbon falls area (except maybe some low aerial ones). Nice job Zander. I explored the Gunsight in December from bottom almost to the top, and that would be darn dicey while wet... multiple rap spots in wet conditions.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 23, 2008 - 06:49pm PT
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thanks Zander, and those views of Chockstone Chimney almost make me want to go do it again!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Feb 23, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
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Did this climb once (onsight solo) after living in Yosemite forever and finally thinking (this climb keeps getting recommended in books and guidebooks, but I never hear of anybody doing it)
I thought the approach sucked, and the descent and stuff is long compared to the actual climbing. The actual climbing isn't too good either.
Still, it gets overall points for being a trad adventure, having a real summit, and old school bonus points to boot.
Wonder what else is around there that's undiscovered?
Peace
Karl
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 23, 2008 - 09:12pm PT
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Overhang Bypass? What a pile.
I always just went Overhang Overpass ....
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 28, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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just sayin
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2008 - 09:01pm PT
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Hey Wade,
Just sayin' what? ;-)
Werner,
I'm the master of climbing pile.
Of course with my ability that's about all I can climb.
Zander
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Feb 28, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
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do it for the swimming holes at the top
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 28, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
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Few pics from when we did the route in June '93 as part of a fun bachelor climbing weekend for a buddy of mine. Looking at the pics again after all these years, it's surprising how ledged out and brushy the route looks. So I included the pics that make it look more rock-worthy!
Da Loobsta headed up the first pitch.
My buddy Tim leading the 2nd pitch, "Hog Trough"
Tim cleaning the crux 4th pitch.
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Feb 28, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
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great reminder of YV select improbable gems. Good candidate for the next Yose topo book: "Gold Diggers Guide To Yosemite" . . ."for those about to thrutch"
thanks for the photos zan.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Mar 12, 2011 - 04:20am PT
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Did this climb once (onsight solo) Rad. I wish I could solo it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 17, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Zander-
I did this route back in June, 1965 on my first-ever trip to the Valley. It had a good rep BITD. The hog trough is kinda fun, and there's a couple other redeeming pitches, too. The approach is kinda' sucky, though.
Another highly-regarded climb then was Arches Terrace, another of my ascents that trip.
Rodger
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 18, 2011 - 12:04am PT
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I have a question for folks who've done this route. Did you go straight up the clean slabby dihedral that is the specific formation I think they call the "hog trough"? Or did you traverse left a ways past a bolt and do a little spooky mantel or couple of steepish face moves and then traverse back right on easier less steep ground, meeting the top of the hog trough?
In any case, I loved this route, missed the Zander adventure approach, but found our own adventure approach. I recall some "you will die if you fall on this" moves in hiking boots while off-route on approach via bushes and blocks to the left of Bridalveil Fall (maybe in the same vicinity of Zander's start, but tough to say). Somewhere there's a TR for the day that started with an attempt on Bridalveil East & Midget Chimney.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 18, 2011 - 12:11am PT
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We climbed the nice clean dihedral; Roper's guidebook used it as the definition pitch for 5.6 BITD. Of course it's going on 46 years now, and maybe senility is setting in?
There's a nice lieback crack in the dihedral; never seemed very hard at the time, but I've been in no hurry to go back because of the approach and descent. Triple YUK!
Added as a P.S. in Edit: I climbed the route with Peter Williamson (RIP) who drowned in Bridalveil Creek after completing a climb of the Leaning Tower in ~ 1975.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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Brokendownclimber,
I'm sorry about your friend. We all have to be so careful out there. It isn't the climbing that will necessarily get you.
Nutjob,
The approach is pretty easy now that I know. When you are looking up at the route go to the right of the buttress to approach just like it says in the book! Who knew? Look up at the roof you are going to "bypass". Move straight up to it and then just below it move left into the Hog Trough. Climb the route to the top. It is actually pretty simple if you don't decide to wing it without the guide book. He he.
Zander
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 18, 2011 - 10:32am PT
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from the 1964 Roper red guidebook:
This is probably the most popular route on the South side of the Valley
The famous Hog Trough pitch was rated at 5.5, and the 5.6 moves on the climb were about a lead or so higher. I recall that Pete led the Hog Trough, and he was really pissed that I got to lead the crux a pitch later. We did the godawful Gunsight descent. Another reason to avoid this "popular" (BITD) climb! Yuk!
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