Overhang Bypass TR, fall 2006


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Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 22, 2008 - 02:43pm PT
Overhang Bypass Trip Report, Fall 2006
We did this climb during the 2006 Cleanup. We cleaned on Saturday and climbed on Sunday. I was feeling pretty low key. Bob wanted to make a run for Mt. Goode but I was too lazy. We decided on Overhang Bypass. We didn’t have the topo but I had pretty much memorized it. Though as it turned out I hadn’t memorized the approach . Here’s the route.

You turn to the right at the Valley Trail not the left.

Here’s a picture looking back over my shoulder which has nothing to do with this TR but is so pretty. Ed and Gary know what’s over there.

Here’s three nice pics on the alternate approach. 5.6 loose.

Once back on the actual approach route we wandered up until it seems fifth classish. Here’s a pic of P2. We ran one and two together.

Here’s a pic of P3 as you bypass the overhang.

Fun, mellow climbing to the Hog Trough.

P4 is the crux. The one crux move is A1 if you are 5’6”, 5.9 if you're a stubby 5’9” like me and 5.8 or probably easier if you're 5’11”. It was starting to drizzle so Bob swarmed the move on the run. I’d like to say so did I but, oh well.

Here’s a pic looking up above the big ledge.

It was raining now so what would be pretty easy 5.7 while dry was now giving full value.

The next pitch has a cool hand traverse into a nice dihedral. At the top of the dihedral I noticed that Bob had spilled his chalk bag. Until I tried to mantel onto the wet green slime. It was kind of hard to fit my hand and foot onto the little pile of chalk but I made it.

Here’s a pic of the slabs on the second to last pitch. It had stopped raining for a while. I was kind of happy about that.

Here’s a pic at the pools in Bridal Veil Creek. A beautiful place.

Here’s a couple of pics on the descent down the Gunsight. It was raining again.

See y’all.
Mick K

Northern Sierra
Feb 22, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
I am stir crazy and that TR is just what I needed. Great of ribbon falls

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 22, 2008 - 02:51pm PT
Very nice! Looks fun!


Feb 22, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
Thanks Zander! Been meaning to do that one of these days.

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Feb 22, 2008 - 03:04pm PT
Looks like a piece of sh#t route to me. How many stars would you give it?

Patrick Price

Sport climber
Feb 22, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
looks lik a bush wacking good time!

Trad climber
Feb 22, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
geeze, that looks horrible.

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Feb 22, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
Man!, that 2nd pic is one of the most beautiful inviting pictures I've seen lately!

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 22, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
Back in red-guidebook days, that was one of Roper's recommended Grade II's. I always meant to do it, but never quite did. Looks like fun!

Trad climber
Feb 22, 2008 - 03:57pm PT
Nice TR!


That was the very first climb TheReal and I ever did together!


The bleeding heart were in full bloom in the Gunsight. . . they were just beautiful!


Thanks for the wonderful memories! Might wanna go up and do that again this fall when we're there for the FaceLift!


P.S. Ya know. . . I don't think you do that route for the climbing. . . I think you do it for the "WOW" of where you end up and for the joy of rappin' the Gunsight! It's just one of those classic Yosemite highs!

Trad climber
Feb 22, 2008 - 04:29pm PT
Thanks Zander!

Looks like a fine adventure.

You're right about the dizzying signal to noise ratio that has permeated this place lately.


Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 22, 2008 - 04:40pm PT
Did the route in 93 or 94. Recall it as sorta fun.
Views of El Cap from the top are excellent.

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Feb 22, 2008 - 04:42pm PT

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Feb 22, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
Thanks Zander. I was gonna try that last year but did something else instead.

Life is bad crazy right now at work. Twas nice to see shots of you and Bob.

Feb 22, 2008 - 05:33pm PT
The Roper green guide calls this "one of the most popular routes in the Valley." My, how tastes change. I enjoyed it back when it was a II, 5.6. Similar obscure routes that offer fantastic views are the Lower Brother SW Arete routes in the green book. The view both up and down the Valley from the LB are well worth the effort.

The bottom of a bottle of Bear Whiz Beer
Feb 22, 2008 - 05:37pm PT

Got any pics of the spot where the death block fell out and made the route harder. I used to get real scared jammin up the right side of that thing and always knew it was not long before it would fall out..

Social climber
Feb 22, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
Thanks Zander. Looks like you got full value on the approach too!

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Feb 22, 2008 - 05:53pm PT
You mean like this view?


Malibu, baby....in a Cheetah shirt
Feb 22, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
Great photos Zander, and Spyork, that last one made my day. Thanks!

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
Yeah, the rock is at times funky. Three of the pitches have “good” rock, the hog trough, the crux pitch and the traverse/dihedral pitch. I didn’t take pictures of the best rock because I had something else on my mind, I guess. It’s like eKat said, this route is more about getting off the ground having fun in a cool location. A little adventure.
Walleye, I didn’t take a picture of where the death block fell out. The rock is now really clean there. Even from twenty feet away you can see the move. The pro is good, a recent piton down low, an optional out of the way #1 Camalot and a #3 nut right at the move. Good exposure too.
See ya,
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