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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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WOW...
I haven't looked at this thread in sometime, indeed reminscent of the old supertacos slander fests.
Im a wannabe fan, in 98 I climbed Lost in America a day behind Russ, Eric, and Leo, they climbed it in a day...zammo!
Like I said the next two days we fixed and launched. In the time it took us to top out Russ and Eric climbed both Native Son and the Sheep Ranch in pushes...I was like damn kid, you have to step it up. I spent all of my energies on climbing. Trying so hard, trying so hard... Somewhere all this time Ammon comes along and just starts shredding, I think I was in the Valley the summer he soloed Sea of Dreams, soon he's shredding everything. I am trying hard to climb my best too, why? Becuz nothing is sicker than climbing the big stones fast with a great friend...I had a great friend too. We managed some (impressive to us) pushes of walls here and there, trying stupid sh#t like a push of SMash the State in winter on the Diamond (tried).
Ammon slowly ticked along being rad...I was jealous, motivated, driven, I didn't want to be a fan, I wanted to be a peer...
Just before a trip to the Valley I glanced through one of the mags...AMmon and Brian, PSD in under 24....my world collapsed. That was so fuqing rad I couldn't even register it on my map. An old college buddy did the second ascent with Kevin Thaw way back, and spoke very highly of it (and the surfboard)
The shizer just never stopped coming from either Brian or Ammon, Latitudes, Swiss American, all the el cap stuff, and I'd venture a healthy list none of us are privy too.
So dudes...don't trip, there are us underground types that dig what your upto...fuqing aspire to charge like that, and carry our dimly lit flame the way you carry the Olympic torch.
Sadly, these days I am more of a fan than peer, but I don't give a fuq. I've got broken bones, missing limbs and as many emotional scars as the rest of us from climbing carnage. The second I can tie in you better fuqing believe I'm coming after you and Brian...I'll never get there, but I'm coming in my own little way, because you guys inspire me to charge!
So many great climbers don't get their due in the "media" as if you could call the two rags that...urban climber soon to overcome it all!!!
How many people know the names Rolo, Copp, Cordes, Wharton, DeCapio, Haulenbaugh, or Pennings?
These guys have rewritten how it goes down in the last few years, concurrently with Brian and Ammon... I mention the others only to point out that the unknowns are out there charging too!
The list is endless.
I dig your point about efficiency Ammon, we rarely took watches, we just said try your hardest and keep going up. We were never fast enuff for a watch to matter.
Anyway, just wanted to write my own little love poem and shout out that all the stuff you guys are upto blows my fuqing mind.
A fan,
Brent
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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uhhhh....ditto that last post!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2005 - 12:57am PT
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Thanks for the props Brent. We should hook up and launch a route one of these days. We are ALL peers.... even the 5.6 climbers who started two months ago.
Brian, I wasn't doing any name calling... haa haa haa. I was just pointing out the fact that you are NOT one of the SHEEP. Therefore, some people might not like your frankness.
I’ll never forget the quote you sent me.......
"The price of being a sheep is boredom. The price of being a wolf is loneliness. Choose one or the other with great care." --Unknown Author
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G.D.
Trad climber
Boise, Idaho
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Hay Ammon,
I should mention the sheep dog and his place in life... We (Shannon, the Kids, and I) will be in the valley around the secound week in July. I'll tell you about the sheep dog then if your interested.
Greg
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2005 - 02:32am PT
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Present rules that we follow.... cut and pasted from Hans' website: (speedclimb.com)
If a topo of the route ends, but there is still 100 ft of 5.8 left, you don't stop the clock until you get to where a normal party would walk off the route, even if your team has coiled the rope and begun the solo/walk off.
If your haul bag or rope is stuck 80 or even 20 ft down from the finish of the route, you can't stop your time until all your belongings are at the spot where you would walk off.
Stashing gear, food, water, on a route, with the intention of using it for a future speed ascent is not the "best style". - It should be FULLY noted in your report of the ascent. Lying only cheats you not me.
Just getting psyched!!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 11, 2005 - 02:06pm PT
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I only just stumbled across this. A shame as it was my "not a big fan" comment that apparentlt started it.
I feel its important to mention that the context was talking of clean Zion walls. Ripping nuts out of placements to clean them causes REAL damage.
Trouble is the placements wear out even with careful use. I myself used a technique in a recent video that I now regret in retrospect (body yanking nuts when I lacked the ability to tap them loose).
Ultimately Matt hit the nail on the head when he said 'without screwing up the experience for others'. I think we are quickly approaching a time when route erosion will have a strong adverse effect on our ability to climb.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2005 - 03:30pm PT
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Hey Ron,
Actually, it was not your comment that started this. The ironic thing is that the person who DID make the comment... recently hacked his way up a semi-obscure Zion route, leaving fixed pins and blown placements in his wake.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 30, 2015 - 02:56pm PT
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10 year FlyN'Brian and Ammon bump to the top! Wish Brian was here to talk about his single aider system.
Did I get that right? Single aider?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jul 30, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
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Fly'n Brian
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas
May 30, 2005 - 01:47am PT
hey guys,
i just checked in to see what's happening with this topic. i also just got done reading the golden piton speed climbing award in the mag. i'll say straight up that what started this whole thread was that ammon and i feel sleighted and disrespected by the decision to give the award to the huber's for zodiac. bottom line.
i couldn't believe the slander at the start of the page referring to how sick of time reports the people at climbing mag have recieved over the years and how they won't have to report anymore speed times on el cap because what the huber's did was so impressive.
i'll have to say i've never sent any climbing times on anything to anyone except hans and really don't know who has. if it's so rediculous to have a speed record why is the huber's zodiac time impressive? why was the fod of the nose climbing news? why is the fod of plastic surgery disaster not climbing news?
i like werner's approah and posts. i continually try to get myself back to the place where my personal climbing experience is the most important. that is why i do not pursue media exposure. i want climbing to be a much deeper and fulfilling experience than being showcased in glamour magazine. i've got to say it's a bit difficult when numerous climbers around me are recieving money and support for debatedly comparable climbing endeavors.
Fly'n Brian
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas
May 30, 2005 - 02:22am PT
well i missed a few posts before i wrote the last bit of dribble. who is this dudley guy? thanks to those who tried to set that spraycan straight. i don't want to expose my sensitivity TOO much anymore so i'll just have to tell dudley, (you're quite uninformed and i apologize for dispelling my respected role model status)
see ammon, wasn't that nice! why do you think i'm abrasive?
hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2005 - 11:13am PT
Ok Brian, maybe abbrasive wasn't the right word.
Synonyms are everything from rude to rough, to uncompromising.
How about SALTY? Haa HAAaa haa!!!
Cheers!
Burt
climber
Sin City
May 31, 2005 - 01:15pm PT
Sorry Ammon and Brian, I just have to comment. Who the f*#k does dudley think he is? Brian is the only climber that climbs at the caliber that he does and does not toot his own horn. But I understand his frustrations. He has been passed up for grants, sponsorships, and all of the other benifits that "pro" climbers are getting that can hardly lead without getting the shakes. I mean come on, the Great Trango in a push style ascent, or to climb a f*#king decent gully on the Mooses Tooth and call it the most rad thing in the world? What would you like to read about? I have spent many nights in a ledge, hanging in a harness, or stuck out on lead (for way too long on a push ascent) with Brian and he has nothing but positive and encoucouraging words for me. I have seen some of the most amazing feats done on some of the raddest routes around. (all of his big wall routes are unreapeated until just a few months ago when Ammon just sent Saurons Eye nice send Ammon!) I brought Jim Bridwell home from Mesquite, nv on long night and he had nothing but the upmost respect for Brian. He said that the Bears Tooth went down because Brian was on his team. His first time ever climbing ice was on the sharp end 5000 f*#king thousand feet up the Bears Tooth on one of Alaska's "Last Great Problems" So tell me again dudley, where do you get your info? I could go on forever just about the climbing that we have done together (which is 1% of the climbing that he has done) but I will leave that for my memories. I had bad climbing accident june 23 2004, I broke my back, legs, feet, pelvis, all that good stuff, Brian was by myside everyday for the first 2 weeks that I was in ICU and he was there almost everyday after that. I owe him my unbeliveible recovery, my spirits while being down, I owe him my life. So sorry if this sounds like a gay love poem but you hit a cord with me. So F*#k off dudley you don't know what the f*#k you are talking about.
WBraun
climber
May 31, 2005 - 01:29pm PT
Burt
Have you recovered or are you still rehabilitating your body? Please feel no offense I’m truly interested after such a serious injury.
Burt
climber
Sin City
May 31, 2005 - 01:52pm PT
My recovery was nothing short of a miricle as my doctor put it. They told me that I wouldn't walk until Dec. 25th, 6 months after my surgery. (I broke L1, L2, L3 which are now fused) and I started walking on my 29th day. I went climbing for the first time 3 months after (still tr 5.10!) and did my first lead that same day! I was climbing strong and I really just forgot that it happened then I was t-boned by a lady doing 50 mph which started my recovery all over again. I am doing better but I have lost some fight but I'll get there again. I still have problems with my feet (broke both of them) and my back isn't as strong as it used to be (no more 150 lbs haulbags!) But I am doing good. thanks for asking.
Fly'n Brian
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas
May 30, 2005 - 01:47am PT
hey guys,
i just checked in to see what's happening with this topic. i also just got done reading the golden piton speed climbing award in the mag. i'll say straight up that what started this whole thread was that ammon and i feel sleighted and disrespected by the decision to give the award to the huber's for zodiac. bottom line.
i couldn't believe the slander at the start of the page referring to how sick of time reports the people at climbing mag have recieved over the years and how they won't have to report anymore speed times on el cap because what the huber's did was so impressive.
i'll have to say i've never sent any climbing times on anything to anyone except hans and really don't know who has. if it's so rediculous to have a speed record why is the huber's zodiac time impressive? why was the fod of the nose climbing news? why is the fod of plastic surgery disaster not climbing news?
i like werner's approah and posts. i continually try to get myself back to the place where my personal climbing experience is the most important. that is why i do not pursue media exposure. i want climbing to be a much deeper and fulfilling experience than being showcased in glamour magazine. i've got to say it's a bit difficult when numerous climbers around me are recieving money and support for debatedly comparable climbing endeavors.
Fly'n Brian
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas
May 30, 2005 - 02:22am PT
well i missed a few posts before i wrote the last bit of dribble. who is this dudley guy? thanks to those who tried to set that spraycan straight. i don't want to expose my sensitivity TOO much anymore so i'll just have to tell dudley, (you're quite uninformed and i apologize for dispelling my respected role model status)
see ammon, wasn't that nice! why do you think i'm abrasive?
hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
Ammon
Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2005 - 11:13am PT
Ok Brian, maybe abbrasive wasn't the right word.
Synonyms are everything from rude to rough, to uncompromising.
How .
And bump again for the aim of doing it for the right reason. No one is pure, but try. . .
There is a lot of the best in those few posts.
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overwatch
climber
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Jul 30, 2015 - 05:14pm PT
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yeah some good stuff on here I have never seen this thread before. poignant considering what happened in the future. thanks for the bump.
Fly on Brian
as far as Dudley was concerned there was a clue in the name
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jul 30, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
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Couchmaster, yes Brian used a single aider, custom made by Misty Mountain out of 2" webbing. Though he told me when it got difficult he employed a second aider, about 36" long with several steps made out of stiff 1/2" webbing.
I only saw him doing serious aid once, on a grade V first ascent on "Notgonnasayit Wall" so I can't explain his technique as well as Burt or Ammon could. He definitely moved with efficiency on the stone.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 30, 2015 - 10:55pm PT
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Who the f*#k is that klaus noob
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Jul 30, 2015 - 11:23pm PT
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Whoa! One from the wayback machine!
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 08:07am PT
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Scroll up and read that Brent A post if you haven't already. Great stuff. Great thread!
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