A Charlie Porter Apparition


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Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 30, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
I was a bit too young to hang with Charlie but I saw him often in the C4 lot. You could just smell the success on that man! A god? No, of course not but a man with a HUGE set!

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 7, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 7, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
This is from back in 2005, but it's worth reading to know what necessary day-to-day hassles folks deal with working with Charlie's foundation.


Feb 16, 2015 - 08:22pm PT

Great thread............thanks for sharing.

Under Achiever

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Feb 16, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
Yikes, couch. From dickhead to good thread within a span of minutes. I started this thread as O.D. long ago, then switched to DosXX. Then, I couldn't remember how to log in as DosXX, so I re-registered as the Under guy. No offense taken on the dickhead thing; it's just another day on the Taco. You'll be delighted to know that my actual name is Dick :-)
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Feb 17, 2015 - 06:06am PT
What are the climbs Charlie Porter did on other formations in the Valley? There is Keel Haul by Ribbon Falls and Nashville Skyline on Quarter Dome. Any others?

Feb 17, 2015 - 06:23am PT

I apologize for that comment Dick. Will go find and change that post to better reflect my thoughts.


Social climber
boulder co
Jul 2, 2016 - 11:36am PT
Climbed the Shield in June and was once again blown away by one of Charile's routes!! The headwall pitches were absolutely mind blowing and I kept putting myself in his shoes withe the gear they had at the time. Just looking up past the roof onto the headwall was so intense. To cast off into the unknown must have felt so incredible! My hat is off to one of the all time best climbers in yoemite history!!


Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Jul 2, 2016 - 02:21pm PT

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jul 3, 2016 - 11:59pm PT

Porter on Excalibur, third pitch from the top


Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Jul 4, 2016 - 02:53am PT
Splendid photograh Blakey!

Trad climber
LA LA Land
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2016 - 06:35am PT
That photo is a real treasure, Blakey. Thanks for posting it on this thread!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
May 29, 2017 - 06:54pm PT
that bump

Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
Jun 1, 2017 - 08:14pm PT

Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
Jun 1, 2017 - 08:16pm PT
I wonder how many axes he made. I only saw one other.

right here, right now
May 16, 2019 - 09:05am PT
life is a bivouac

Trad climber
May 16, 2019 - 05:59pm PT
Charlie made a batch of 10 I believe in 1975 for some extra bucks. The shafts were stock from a metal supplier in Salt Lake, as was the chrome-moly for the picks... I recall he had a lot of trouble with the heat treating, warping the blades due to the treatment facility guys not fully understanding the use and importance of a straight blade; some of the blades had lazy curves...

I bought two off of him, the "best and the worst". Subsequently I sold one of them to a climbing buddy, Ken Klis... I think he still owns it and I have mine.

MacInnes' designs were what Porter was emulating... The weight should be in the shaft and one pulls down in the swing stroke for a more secure placement.

We were beating up the ice in Little Cottonwood Canyon with Chouinard's axes and Terrordactyls and later the Lowe Hummingbirds. Our efforts expanded into Provo Canyon where I learned a lot about Ice...

I hope that answers some of your questions.

Social climber
joshua tree
May 16, 2019 - 06:05pm PT
Man Iím gunna miss ST for this stuff is life🙏

Trad climber
LA LA Land
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2019 - 03:42pm PT
I'm with ya there @BLUEBLOCR

It's kind of funny, this thread. I enjoy writing but I'm almost always disappointed when I go back and read stuff I've written -- it's mostly a bunch of crap. But not this post. I re-read it sometimes just for encouragement.
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