A Charlie Porter Apparition


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Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 30, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
How many first ascents did he make on El Capitan, and has anyone else done more?

ps Not that quantity is any particularly useful measure - just curious.
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 30, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
How many first ascents did he make on El Capitan, and has anyone else done more?

Addressing the first question:

From the 'Obscurities' .PDF here on SuperTopo

Charlie Porter Routes on El Cap (ordered West to East)

1. HORSE CHUTE, with Hugh Burton
2. EXCALIBUR, with Hugh Burton
3. SHIELD, with Gary Bocarde
4. GRAPE RACE, with Bev Johnson
5. NEW DAWN Solo
6. MESCALITO, with Hugh Burton, Steve Sutton, Chris Nelson
7. TANGERINE TRIP, with John-Paul St.Croix
8. ZODIAC Solo

Maybe Werner or deuce4 can help out with the second question?

Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Dec 30, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
It looks as though the size # corresponds to the depth of the "I" section, in inches.
Yes Dos XX, in fact it works like Chouinard Tube Chocks #4, #5 & #6.
A good photograph has often been the very beginning of the dream for me.

Dec 30, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
It's NOT about how many first ascents one has done on El Cap.

It's NOT even about climbing at all.

It's about the man himself ......
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Dec 30, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
^^^ Love how you drill down to the essence with so few words.

Don't ever change.


Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 30, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
I was a bit too young to hang with Charlie but I saw him often in the C4 lot. You could just smell the success on that man! A god? No, of course not but a man with a HUGE set!

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 7, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 7, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
This is from back in 2005, but it's worth reading to know what necessary day-to-day hassles folks deal with working with Charlie's foundation.


Feb 16, 2015 - 08:22pm PT

Great thread............thanks for sharing.

Under Achiever

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Feb 16, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
Yikes, couch. From dickhead to good thread within a span of minutes. I started this thread as O.D. long ago, then switched to DosXX. Then, I couldn't remember how to log in as DosXX, so I re-registered as the Under guy. No offense taken on the dickhead thing; it's just another day on the Taco. You'll be delighted to know that my actual name is Dick :-)
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Feb 17, 2015 - 06:06am PT
What are the climbs Charlie Porter did on other formations in the Valley? There is Keel Haul by Ribbon Falls and Nashville Skyline on Quarter Dome. Any others?

Feb 17, 2015 - 06:23am PT

I apologize for that comment Dick. Will go find and change that post to better reflect my thoughts.

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