Tooled at Castle Rock

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Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Sep 7, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
Here's a copy of an email I received on September 6th from Paul Minault of the Access Fund that details the current state of the Summit Rock controversy. As you can read, there is going to be a petition circulated in the local climbing gyms:

All,

This will update you on efforts to open Summit Rock during the non-nesting season.

Bruce Morris and I attended two meetings with officials of Santa Clara County, first with the Recreation Commission and the second with the staff of the Dept. of Parks and Recreation. Without going into details, it became obvious that there was a strong bias on the part of staff and commission members to maintain the year-round closure despite our presentation of information showing that seasonal closures were the standard nationwide. It also appeared that the other obstacles to a seasonal closure were the support of the year-round closure by the raptor expert of the California Dept. of Fish and Game, and Fish and Game's recommendation that re-opening Summit with a seasonal closure would require further environmental studies.

Re-opening Summit will require bringing science to the decision-making process and bringing political pressure on county officials. As to science, I propose to bring Prof. Clayton White of Brigham Young Univ., a nationally-renowned peregrine expert, to see the site and discuss his observations and conclusions with county staff and commissioners. Planet Granite has tentatively offered to fund Prof. White's travel expenses (he has offered to work for free) and is seeking grass-roots climber support for this effort. I had hoped to bring Prof. White out this month, but PG's funding efforts will take longer than this to complete.

As to politics, the AF is circulating a petition to open Summit Rock and posting an action alert on its website asking climbers to write county officials to re-open Summit. To date, the local climbing community has been silent in response to the closure, which I believe has emboldened local officials to conclude they face no political consequences or exposure from maintaining the closure indefinitely.

Two other efforts may be needed to reopen Summit. The first is to secure Summit from continued partying and trashing by youths, and the AF grants program, as well as local climber stewardship efforts, may be able to assist in this effort. The second is to refute the need for further environmental studies with a legal analysis of the requirements of the California Environmental Quality Act. (In response to a letter from the County Counsel, I have already written county officials explaining that there are no legal barriers in federal, state or local law to opening Summit on a seasonal basis.) A further supporting effort is to demonstrate that climbing is a historic use of Summit Rock and that Summit played an important role in the early development of climbing in California, and that this historic use has to be considered in any management program for Summit.

In sum, I expect that it will take a concerted effort, and some time, to open Summit Rock, and that it will not happen without a vocal and persistent political effort by local peninsula climbers.

Please let me know if there are additional climbers who should be added to the list above.

Thanks, Paul

    
Paul Minault
Access Fund Regional Coordinator
for Northern California

Law Offices of Paul Minault
Land Use and Environmental Law
100 Montgomery Street, Suite 2290
San Francisco, CA 94104
(415) 397-6152
(415) 788-5768 (fax)
pminault@earthlink.net

As you can read, Paul notes that the local climbing community has remain silent on the subject of the Summit Rock blanket closure. Therefore, it would be a good idea to go to the Access Fund site and write to local officials asking that Summit be re-opened to climbing on a seasonal basis to allow for raptor nesting. Also, contact Paul about having your name added to the list of local climbers on the Summit Rock Access Fund Committee. Silence, in this case, is definitely not golden. See Access Fund web site:

http://status.accessfund.org/?q=Summit+Rock
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Sep 7, 2011 - 02:36pm PT
I think we're screwed until those birds catch the f-ing plague and go die.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Sep 7, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
One of the big problems is that local climbers have not inundated County Parks, SC Recreation and Parks Commission, and the SC County Board of Supervisors with letters demanding that Summit Rock and environs be re-opened to climbing. Until this year, everyone has been laying down and taking the shaft without one word of complaint. Prof. White is of course a strong ace to play. And a petition drive is about to start sending the politicos the message that voters don't like what's going on. Democracy does take time and patience and is not the easiest way of doing things. Now if I was the great dictator, Summit would be open in a minute. But then again!?
noal elkins

climber
Sep 7, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
A petition is a great idea especially if it can be circulated at Bay Area gyms. Castle Rock and Summit Rock seem to attract many beginner climbers from the gyms who are transitioning to the outdoors. I would venture to say that most of these folks do not follow this forum, have heard of the Access Fund, or have any idea of the closure. If there is a way I can volunteer or help out getting signatures at the gym I would be more than willing to offer my time.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Sep 7, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
Or encourage some of the hunters to , well, um,....

murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Sep 7, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
How about a simple name and email address for us to write to?

Thanks for all your efforts!
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Sep 8, 2011 - 02:15am PT
Think relevant email addresses should be posted on the Access Fund site in the near future. The Re-open Summit Rock petition should be available in the lobbies of Planet Granite Belmont, Sunnyvale and San Francisco soon too.

It's also a good idea to keep in mind that the Audubon Society reads the stuff published on this forum. Talking about shooting birds is not a good way to win over their hearts and minds. Too many climbers, it seems to me, engage in anarchistic-libertarian rants and anti-authoritarian posturing without sitting down and writing a letter to the Santa Clara Board of Supervisors complaining about the Summit Rock closure. Come on gang! Sit down and write a letter of complaint to your elected representatives. They are acutely aware of the ire of potential voters. But if they don't know you're irritated by the actions of SC County Parks, they'll just assume things are hunky-dory up at Summit Rock.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
Im climbing tomorrow or Monday or both! Who's in???

Cal Ridge and Mt Doom will be warm all day.

Fred, Cait, Fatty, Susan (is excused)....I'm heading up with Mishka, let's do it!

Or course, newcomers to the pack are welcome.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 31, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
But can you raise a glass or bottle? If so, you're in good shape for tonight.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 31, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
Those gyms will kill ya, Sully! Daphne flailed me to within an inch of my life in one yesterday.
Here's raising a virtual glass of fizzy water to another 100+ outside day year in '12!
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Dec 31, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
Given the recent trolling…. I'm surprised shmooew is not tooled when visiting the local grocer






VVVVVVVV What act? VVVVVVVVVVV
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
Jingy, you're act is getting really lame, bro....
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Jan 1, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
it's going to be in the high 60's today at castle,i think going climbing at castle is need to bring in the new year, happy new year, happy climbing!

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
This weekend will be ripe. Anybody wanna go? Most of my usuals will be in the Valley, no doubt. Anybody wanna go?

I think the shady spots will even be fair game. It should be a warm and perfect day.
sullly

Trad climber
Feb 2, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
Hey Bluering, I want to try out my arm. If more people come and my arm blows, you'll still have someone else to belay you. Either day works.
dfinnecy

Social climber
'stralia
Feb 2, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
I'm planning on heading to Castle Friday (tomorrow) morning for a bit of bouldering. I'll have a harness if you are looking for someone to hold the rope. Come say hello if you are around Parking Lot rock or CR proper and see a mid 30s guy with no pad and an old pair of Mythos.
-Darren
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
Sully, let me talk to Stacy and see what day works out for her and John. I'll be in touch here.

I'm working tomorrow dFinnecy, but otherwise I'd be game. Me and 'A farewell to arms' got a score to settle. I tried to onsight that rig on lead (on gear), but flailed at the crux. Looks doable but boy is it a sloper-fest at the crux!!!
dfinnecy

Social climber
'stralia
Feb 2, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
Might be able to make Saturday morning as well, I'll update here tomorrow when schedule becomes clear.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
Sully, let's go Saturday. The Superbowl is Sunday and the guys I just talked to are football heads. The CANNOT miss it, an d I wanna see it too.

Anyway I just talked to Jeff (you met at my party) and he seems to be in for Saturday. He's going to try to contact Kenny and Clark (also at the party) to see if they wanna go.

My pregnant neighbor Wendy may also want to go. Let's do it! I'm thinking Mt Doom or the Platypus region. We'll call it on climbing day in the parking lot. Cal Ridge is always cool too.

Woot!

EDIT: Hey D, if you can make it Saturday, let me know what 'morning' means in terms of a time. I can get up there by 9am, but most of my crew is slow outta bed. But We can hook up with them later if you want an early start.

Keep me informed...
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Feb 2, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
My pregnant neighbor Wendy may also want to go.


I'm in.
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