Tooled at Castle Rock

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bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
Gerg, CRSP is fine. Have fun.

Miles Standish has retired.

It's pretty inexpensive to buy Bruce Morris' "A climber's guide to Skyline Blvd". It's a good guidebook. Buy it. Must have for the area.

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbers-Guide-Skyline-Boulevard/dp/0965023427

I can probably show you around too, if you'd like.
Gerg

Boulder climber
Calgary
Jul 4, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
ooh that is good to hear about buddy's retirement.
We are only visitng bouldering places between all the typical fun San Fran attractions for a boy and his dad...such a wonderful city.
i 'rented' a pad for a week off fellow supertaco member weschrist last year when I was in Cali. but I may contact you closer to ht emiddle of August about getting a tour maybe. Wanna go to Castle, Goat, and place north of the Golden Gate. I have the Bay area bouldering guide.
thanks.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
Gerg, I don't own a pad but I could probably locate one locally for borrowing. The bouldering at CSRP is the main attraction. Don't rule out the Indian Rock and Nature Nazi areas across the street from CRSP. Good stuff for kids over there.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 4, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
That's what I think is especially odd. If the Peregrines are upset so much by the presence of climbers, why in the heck did they move into one of the most popular climbing areas (i.e. Summit Rock) in Santa Clara County? If the climbers were around there all the time that the birds moved in, it seems to me that they didn't have any problem with sharing the rock with climbers on routes to their left or right. So . . . why did they need to be protected by closing down the whole dang cliff?

What County Parks has in effect done by closing Summit Rock to climbing is to eliminate one half of the outdoor recreational climbing resources in Santa Clara County. When you speak to the Santa Clara County Board of Supervisors, Fat Rat, be sure to emphasize that point. The Birders on the Parks and Recreation Commission tried to treat Paul and myself as if we were "lone wolf" individual climbers rather than representatives of a national climbing advocacy group with thousands of members. They used that same insulting argument you hear from the Dean of Boys in High School where they are trying to classify you as someone who is going against or outside the "group". You know the talk: "You've got to understand there are other people besides yourselves in the world." You have to "think of others" (i.e. Birders I suppose). It's just not going to be a simple matter for them to shut down a valuable local crag that been climbed on for 70 years without the climbing community taking some action.

The tone all along has been patronizing and condescending. But the only appropriate way for us to react is by being polite and conciliatory.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
The tone all along has been patronizing and condescending. But the only appropriate way for us to react is by being polite and conciliatory.


Everybody needs to behave rationally. But I ask you when you're dealing with irrational arguments and people, what then?

The rhetoric needs to be ratcheted up. This injustice will not stand. At some point we need to say, "this will not stand". We will not tolerate this.

Maybe I need to get on that board. I wonder how many of those there actually use the parks they govern over?
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 4, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
We just have to have a hard scientific study that lends credence to our arguments for a seasonal closure of Summit. Otherwise, they're going to use the recommendations from State Fish and Wildlife that Summit should be closed indefinitely. You fight their irrational, emotionally driven arguments with facts. Democracy might work too. The Santa Clara County Board of Supervisors are elected officials who have to answer to their constituency, a large group of whom are climbers. Raging and screaming and posturing are a good way of letting off steam, but do nothing to change policy. I do know that Paul Minault was p.o.'ed that they treated all his well-thought out compromise proposals as nothing but the work of truants and anti-social rebels. Wait for the national Access Fund to give us a few pointers about what to do next.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
Raging and screaming and posturing are a good way of letting off steam, but do nothing to change policy. I do know that Paul Minault was p.o.'ed that they treated all his well-thought out compromise proposals as nothing but the work of truants and anti-social rebels. Wait for the national Access Fund to give us a few pointers about what to do next.


Will do.

Do you have any beta on the open seat in the Parks committee? I'm drawing blanks.

This is as far as I got;
http://www.sccvote.org/portal/site/d4/agencychp?path=%2Fv7%2FSupervisor%20Ken%20Yeager%20-%20District%204%20%28BOS%29%2FVolunteer%20Opportunities
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 4, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
Think you might find it buried in here, Blue:

http://www.sccvote.org/portal/site/parks/parkschp?path=%2Fv7%2FParks%20and%20Recreation%2C%20Department%20of%20%28DEP%29%2FGeneral%20Agency%20Information%2FParks%20and%20Recreation%20Commission

I do notice that the Commission's "mission statement" talks about promoting recreation not limiting or eliminating it:

"To act in an advisory capacity to the Board of Supervisors in promoting, aiding, encouraging and conducting public recreation, including the acquisition and development of recreation and park facilities and programs, and in the planning, maintenance, development and operation of all recreational areas and facilities owned, controlled or leased by the County."

Doesn't sound like the Commission ought to be shutting down Summit Rock to climbing, does it?

One thing I do notice at the Sanborn County Parks site is that although fishing, hiking and camping are all listed as official activities in the Park, there is not one mention of rock climbing or bouldering at Summit or Indian Rocks. Of course, County Parks is terribly afraid of liability for a climbing accident and therefore may be reluctant to mention rock climbing on their site for fear of being sued.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 05:26pm PT
Thanks, Bruce, I'll look into it.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jul 4, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
We just have to have a hard scientific study that lends credence to our arguments for a seasonal closure of Summit.

It isn't science that's preventing a seasonal closure at Summit, it's politics - there is no science to support a year-round Peregrine closure.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
healyje, we all know that. It's just moving forth that is in question. What to do?

When facts fail, what do you do?
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jul 4, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
Learn the people and politics - it clearly has nothing to do with Peregrines. Sounds more like a convenient excuse for controlling drunks and partiers to me.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
You are probably correct, helayje.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 4, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
But as I pointed out at the meeting last Thursday, it's the climbers who actually chased the drunks and bottle breakers out of Summit. No one wants to be climbing and have a bottle dropped on their head. Since the closure, there's more broken glass on the ledges and more graffiti on the top of the rock. No one watches that place after hours. It's still a party hang. The Rangers all conceded this point.

I think the political angle comes from the splinter group of the local Audubon Society that has got three seats on the Commission. Also, the Rangers contacted some environmental zealots in State Fish and Wildlife who recommended a year-round closure. Now, County Parks may have found people who would endorse the recommendations they already wanted to implement (i.e. a year-round closure). Dunno. I also noticed that the Chair of Parks and Recreation endorsed bolt-chopping and that the lady Ph.D. regarded climbers as an outlaw, defiant, law-breaker group you can't really trust. Sounds to me like the closure was a product of a multitude of reasons emanating from a number of different groups involved in the issue.

They just didn't believe that climbers were organized enough to fight back and make counter-proposals. They thought they would walk right over us and we would obey like good little boys and girls. When we made legitimate, reasonable proposals of our own (i.e. a seasonal closure and sat-only climbing to give the birds a chance to react), they treated us with condescension if not outright contempt. How dare you contradict your betters! That lady merely said, "I have a Ph.D. in ecology" as if her merit badge settled the point then and there.

The Access Fund thought dealing with the Rangers and the Commissioners was no longer productive. I'm as interested as anyone else as to what the national Access Fund is going to recommend next. All I know is that I want to be awarded the Congressional Medal of Honor for going to that Peregrine working group RSVP meeting the week after oral surgery and a wisdom tooth extraction. Who knows? Maybe being punchy helped?
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jul 4, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
Cheers to you, Bruce, for doing all that!

If you think Ph.D.s and so on are useful to have at meetings, post up before the meetings. There are plenty of degreed climbers. Seems like this is a squeaky-wheel game.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 5, 2011 - 01:55am PT
Just Googled her & discovered that Ann Waltonsmith, a member of the Parks and Recreation Commission & one of our most determined adversaries, is also a current or former mayor of the city of Saratoga, which sits at the bottom of US 9 downhill from Summit Rock. It may be that Saratoga doesn't like the party-ers who congregate at Summit Rock. Rich folks in Saratoga who don't like riff-raff passing back and forth through their town?

Hard to say, but some of the members of the Park and Recreation Commission are appointed by the Santa Clara Board of Supervisors. Seems like County Parks is being pressured by a number of self-interest groups in the area to keep Summit closed. I know that Ann Waltonsmith's political program as mayor was keeping big city problems out of Saratoga by resisting attempts by the city of San Jose to bite off and assimilate into San Jose bits of Saratoga. She also worked to keep lot sizes large in Saratoga to retain the "character" of the city. Sounds like her program is basically, "Let's all work together to keep Saratoga filthy rich". To my tin ears, Ann certainly seemed to have mastered that obnoxious preppy richer-than-thou talk-down-to-you tone I've always found to be the mark of a true hypocrite.

Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 5, 2011 - 06:09pm PT
And by the way, this is the text of the letter the Access Fund placed on the record at the last meeting of the Santa Clara County Park and Recreation Commission. As you can see, Prof. Glen Stewart emphasized the fact that a year-round (as opposed to a seasonal) closure was exceptional and did not conform to standard practice at any other climbing area:

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SANTA CRUZ

BERKELEY
DAVIS
IRVINE
LOS ANGELS
MERCED
RIVERSIDE
SAN DIEGO
SAN FRANCISCO
SANTA CRUZ, CA 95064

PREDATORY BIRD RESEARCH GROUP (SCPBRG)

LONG MARINE LAB
PH. (831) 459-2466 FAX. (831) 459-3115

14 March 29,2011

Metka Valh, Commissioner

Santa Clara County Parks and Recreation Department

298 Garden Hill Drive

Los Gatos, CA 95032

Dear Commissioner Valh,

I write to comment on the management and protection of peregrine falcons at Summit Rock Park.

The UC Santa Cruz Predatory Bird Research Group was founded 36 years ago to help address the population recovery goals identified in the Pacific States Peregrine Falcon Recovery Plan. We managed nests in the wild, hatched thin-shelled eggs at our facility, produced young in our breeding aviaries, fostered young into nests, and staffed release sites in California, Nevada, and Oregon. The population was reduced to two known pairs in California by 1970 and has recovered to an estimated 250 pairs today. The species has been removed from state and federal lists of endangered species.

The peregrine falcon remains fully protected in California, a distinction conferred upon thirteen avian species by the legislature, and is protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. We continue to study the
Bay Area peregrine falcon population by documenting occupancy and productivity at selected nests and by banding a sample of nestlings-something I hope to do at Summit Rock this year.

The peregrine falcon is the most widely distributed bird on the planet occurring as a nesting species on every continent and most major land masses except Antarctica. It is highly migratory over much of its
range, however in much of California they are resident in the vicinity of their nesting territory year around.

Over the years, we have consulted with a number of agencies wishing to protect peregrine falcons in areas where other recreational occur, particularly climbing. Our consistent advice has been that climbing
during the non-nesting season, August Ist through December 31st is not a threat to the nesting birds. We are currently in touch with Jeff Cordes, wildlife biologist for the Hume Lake district of Sequoia National
Forest where peregrine falcons nest at popular climbing sites: Chimney Rock and The Monk. Mr. Cordes has had success closing the area to climbing during the nesting season or until it is confirmed that nesting
is not occurring.

In my experience, the climbing community has been a good partner in the protection of peregrine falcons and very respectful toward peregrine falcon nest sites by avoiding them during the nesting season.

Peregrines respond to the changing photo-period after winter Solstice and initiate courtship and breeding activities. When the young disperse in mid to late July territorial defensiveness completely disappears so that human intrusion into the nesting area is tolerated.

Santa Clara County Parks biologist, Don Rocha, was kind enough to guide me to the Summit Rock site because of my research interest in banding nestlings. He explained the problem with inappropriate behavior in the park and at the site of the peregrine falcon nest. Broken glass was evidence of the activity. I appreciate the enforcement
problem that the presence of the peregrine falcons creates in an area frequented by "partiers" and appreciate the efforts of Parks and Recreation to protect the peregrines. The trail from the parking lot creates a significant problem by leading park visitors directly to the place where they will cause the greatest disturbance in spring-the top of the nest cliff.

Thank you for your work to protect peregrine falcons. Please let me know if I may assist.

Glen Stewart
Director"


bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
Hey Bruce, what's the history of The Motherlode? FA party? What are the ratings? I know Chewy's Lookout is 5.10B, and it's a 'real' .10b! I got worked on it yesterday. My guidebook fell apart and I haven't replaced it yet.

Pearls Before Swine is in good shape too. Those last moves are rough.

Actually ran into 2 other parties out there, which is unusual. A 3rd party of hikers was looking for the 'waterfalls'. It's not running that much right now.

Nice area.

Also watched a dude take a nice whip on a cam out at Waterfall Wall (CRSP) on Saturday. Had a huge rapberry rash from the subsequent slide. He was pretty pumped after his piece held, haha!!! I think he was on Charlie's Solo (Anybody seen Charlie lately??). We suggested he get back on the horse and lead Degeneration, which he did, and was rightfully stoked!!!

Nice guys.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 11, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
The late Bill Waggs did the FA of "Chewy's Lookout" (5.10b) maybe 10 or 12 years ago, naming it after his dog "Chewy". An ex-Marine, Bill worked and worked as a contractor around here to amass a retirement nest egg. When he got the loot, he moved to Arizona and promptly came down with cancer that took him rather quickly. Nice guy. Tragic ending at about 50 y.o.

Bill's friend Eddie Tharp did the FA of "Mother Lode" (5.11b) about the same time that Bill did "Chewy's Lookout" and used to lead it all the time before he moved up to the Gold Country about 10 years ago where he's still putting up routes near Consumes. After Bill passed, Eddie inherited Bill's dog Chewy.

There's also a 5.10d TR to the left of "Mother Lode" that anchors off that big tree on top. Nice at the bottom, sort of dirty finish.

So that's about all I know, Blue. I know that Eddie and those guys hand-drilled all the bolts there without using a Bosch or a Hilti.

Charlie Milligan is still around the Bay working as a tree surgeon. He and his wife have acquired some property up in back of Mariposa with some bouldering rocks scattered around his backyard. I think Josh Fengel works with him sometimes. I see Charlie out at the new Diamond Heights TR area between the Hostess and Last Temptation Cliff.

So there! I wrote you a book on the subject!

PS- I did "Pearls Before Swine" independent of the Mother Lode Gang. Sort of like a Valley face climb with mantles down low.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
Cool, thanks Bruce.
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