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MattF
Trad climber
Bend, Or
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Feb 24, 2008 - 02:08pm PT
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Wow Russ. Sick photo of Imaginary Voyage. I did that climb this past Thanksgiving and my partner and I were looking up at that crack with our mouths gaping open... Do you happen to know if the guy in the photo got the whole thing using just the offwidth?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 24, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
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The new list starts with Gristle
and Centurion
Russ cheating the reaper
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 24, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
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Jay,
That last shot is cool.
Walt and I found a 40' 5-6" crack he returned to later and named it "Wounded Knee". Maybe somewhere along the way to the Hyperion end of things.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 24, 2008 - 03:20pm PT
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Cool thanks Tar I will suggest the advance crew sleuth it out! -You guys get that?
Russ'n'Scuff discussing offwidth drive and motivation.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Feb 25, 2008 - 12:56am PT
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MattF writes: Do you happen to know if the guy in the photo got the whole thing using just the offwidth?
Naw....the guy in the offwidth declared it contrived since it was possible to touch the side walls. Not pure enough. That and he was "flat not good enough"... and I probably never will be.... that was like 26 years and 26 pounds ago.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Feb 25, 2008 - 01:00am PT
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I'll vote against Flared Bear (or was it Flared Bare?). I got cruxed just belaying the thing. Leaning, flaring, exfoliating, and according to the old guidebook you're supposed to rap of a horn (remember the exfoliating part, great rock quality...).
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Feb 25, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Do Flared Buffalo. Great route. The 5.8 flare is probably 5.10.... then you do the finish of Great White Buffalo, up and over a small roofy thing to some bolt protected face, then chains.
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adventureboy
Trad climber
Bellingham,wa
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Feb 25, 2008 - 01:59am PT
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imaginary voyage
surrealistic pillar
dolphin
the thing to the right of run for your life??? never done it but looks spicy
hobbit hole offwidth
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Feb 25, 2008 - 02:31am PT
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"surrealistic pillar" - offwidth? Not really. Although, VERY good and doesn't get the attention or traffic it deserves.
"the thing to the right of run for your life??? never done it but looks spicy" - That's Tumbling Rainbow. Also, VERY good and looks more ow (and difficult) than it really is.
Two for one sale... vote for good moderates and at the moment easily falling into the top 5.
*Six Pack Crack
*Jumar of Flesh
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john bald
climber
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Feb 27, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
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Not top five, but worthy non the less.
Innervisions
Ali Shuffle
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 27, 2008 - 04:50pm PT
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How was Ali Shuffle? We checked it out while we were out at Equinox... We deemed it "not worth the trouble" while we were out there. Looked really dirty and chossy. Rocky Marciano, on the other hand, looked like the shit!
"*Comfortably Numb" I'd say "no" on this one. Rated .10a but, I'd say 5.8 - face holds all over, super easy. Seems like the OW's in Josh are either heinous hard or rated harder than they actually are. I lead Apocalypse Now, next to Heart of Darkness. Great climb, but no where near .10b.... Too short too!
edit: Doh! Nevermind... Thinking of Championship Wrestling, rather than Comfortably Numb. Too many OW's, not enough time!=)
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BigNick
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Feb 27, 2008 - 05:13pm PT
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A few more moderate OW's or at least with OW sections.
Grit roof (turning the lip)
Between a rock and a hard place (pretty pukey for the grade)
Jumping jack crack (start)
OW (short but pretty full on)
Championship wrestling (soft---too many face holds)
Tumbling rainbow ("bump and grind" through the middle)
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Feb 27, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
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How about some wide for the noobs like me?
Hex marks the poot!
Bat Crack!
Damn Jam!
Others?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Feb 27, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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skinny dip 5.7
Secovar 5.4
Eye 5.4
Drawstring 5.7
Ranger Jan Dick 5.6
upper right ski track 5.3
Mikes Books 5.6
West Chimney 5.6
bat crack 5.5
northwest chimney 5.2
double start 5.7
the other northwest chimney 5.4
n00b paradise
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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jonesing about JT wide... a month to go...
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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Dolphin?
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:33am PT
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I only count OW's I can do, so yeah...
Drawstring is my new favorite 5.7 wide
Bat Crack is a great grovel. Winded at the tip, but no hard moves.
Championship wrestling just puts you in a great mood (birthing noises...)
Hex Mark's the Poot! Long approach, but darn fun.
Damn Jam, chimney and not OW, but just so worth dragging a sport climber up :)
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