Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 73 of total 73 in this topic |
bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 5, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
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I was just trying to think of some good off widths in JT....
but I can't think of too many.
What am I missing?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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the hobbit hole offwidth by moonlight at 1 a.m. while blazing on fungi with 12 other desert wastels and assorted n'er-do-wells.
git 'er done!
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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My expertise is mainly in looking at the pictures.
Throbbing Gristle wins the beauty contest.
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Owlman
Social climber
Montucky
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Hey John,
Fistacuffs, near Tumbling Rainbow, is very cool.
How about the start to the "Flake", that's real fun...and kinda off width, off body.
Comic Book?
-owlman
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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You guys ain't even close ('cept scuffy). For routes, not boulder probs (note: most pics lifted from WideFetish, where you clowns should be posing this question to begin with: http://www.widefetish.com )
1. Throbbing Gristle 5.12a - Far and away the best wide crack in Josh by a significant margin. 6"-7", overhanging, leaning, slightly flared, sustained. Good rock. No one move circus trick here. Arm bars, super tight wings, high foot inside, heel toe outside, and if you have big mitts some shitty stacks. Good potential for inducing puking.
2. Point of No Return 5.10c - Short, but what ain't in Josh? Hard ass bombay entrance at about 12-14" with bad consequences if you blow it, tapering to 5" at the top. First good cam pro at about half height. Then, a bonus roof exit on stemming and face holds.
3. Kamikaze 5.10c - Short (30' or so), but good wide crack in a corner. Excellent rock on this. Bonus, it's only about 100' away from Throbbing Gristle About 6" to start and about 4" for alot of it. Crux on the entry and another at a 5" pod higher.
4. Maneater 5.10d - Biz starts right away in a roof. More circus than sustained.
5. Six Pack Crack 5.10b - Soft for the grade, and a little grainy, but quality nonetheless. Mostly 4"-6" with plenty of face stuff to exploit in the crux.
There are others in the running and the order is arbitrary except for Throbbing Gristle which is the best wide thing I've seen or been on in Josh.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Done Six Pack Crack on TR... it is a diamond in the rough... more traffic will make it better! Maybe a bit soft on grade, but fun fun fun...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Got Milk?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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is wearing clothes aid?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Off route?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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While on the wide topic, hey JB, I need some JBs. How come there's nowhere close to Josh to grab a pair? My Altias are toast, and weren't stiff enough anyway. Don't really want to roll the dice on sizing without trying some on.
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WBraun
climber
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Cream, stepin-out, twilight zone, crack of despair
The Al-Qaeda thread terrorist strikes
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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That's quite an answer Werner--the best JT offwidths ARE in the Valley.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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good bad ugly: you rang....?
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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Damn! Nice shots everybody. Throbbing Gristle looks great (and hard). Six Pac Crack looks more my speed however...
Elcapinyoaz - Yes I know. Some store owners just don't know how popular offwidth is these days. Desert Rock Sports in Vegas has 'em if you ever go offwidth-ing in the Red Rocks. Otherwise, I'm pretty good at sizing people online....
Cheers and arm bars y'all, jb
What about Centurion?
Edit: Yeah, the Fish's widefetish.com is da' bomb...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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i seemto remember something about the Throbbing Gristle, and the other one, kamaikaze? whatever - maybe these were the ones Alan Nelson took me to?? (he did the FA?) think so, yeah these two were the best OW I did in josh...had fun climbing w/ Alan, man that guy had energy! really fun, very good climber too IMO. maybe i led the other one i can't remeber
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Good list Marty, though I haven't topped out on Inquisiton and have never been on big wedge, so can't say
add in Castaways and maybe the fat banana crack (?)or something (gotta think)
The eye is the best route in the monument though, must be a wide move on it!?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Does the Snatch count as an offwidth? In Echo Cove, left of Touch & Go? I remember at least some offwidth, though not pure. Easy 5.10.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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gristle looks cool! gotta be better than the band.
lots of ugly, funky, flared, shortish stuff at josh, but not much in the way of splitters once you leave equinox.
bob's rocks, but how many folks stack that exit? heel-toe and grab the facehold is my memory.
handful of easier things: one move on orphan; championship wrestling, etc.
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MattF
Trad climber
Bend, Or
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Feb 24, 2008 - 02:08pm PT
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Wow Russ. Sick photo of Imaginary Voyage. I did that climb this past Thanksgiving and my partner and I were looking up at that crack with our mouths gaping open... Do you happen to know if the guy in the photo got the whole thing using just the offwidth?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 24, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
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The new list starts with Gristle
and Centurion
Russ cheating the reaper
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 24, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
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Jay,
That last shot is cool.
Walt and I found a 40' 5-6" crack he returned to later and named it "Wounded Knee". Maybe somewhere along the way to the Hyperion end of things.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 24, 2008 - 03:20pm PT
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Cool thanks Tar I will suggest the advance crew sleuth it out! -You guys get that?
Russ'n'Scuff discussing offwidth drive and motivation.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Feb 25, 2008 - 12:56am PT
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MattF writes: Do you happen to know if the guy in the photo got the whole thing using just the offwidth?
Naw....the guy in the offwidth declared it contrived since it was possible to touch the side walls. Not pure enough. That and he was "flat not good enough"... and I probably never will be.... that was like 26 years and 26 pounds ago.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Feb 25, 2008 - 01:00am PT
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I'll vote against Flared Bear (or was it Flared Bare?). I got cruxed just belaying the thing. Leaning, flaring, exfoliating, and according to the old guidebook you're supposed to rap of a horn (remember the exfoliating part, great rock quality...).
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Feb 25, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Do Flared Buffalo. Great route. The 5.8 flare is probably 5.10.... then you do the finish of Great White Buffalo, up and over a small roofy thing to some bolt protected face, then chains.
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adventureboy
Trad climber
Bellingham,wa
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Feb 25, 2008 - 01:59am PT
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imaginary voyage
surrealistic pillar
dolphin
the thing to the right of run for your life??? never done it but looks spicy
hobbit hole offwidth
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Feb 25, 2008 - 02:31am PT
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"surrealistic pillar" - offwidth? Not really. Although, VERY good and doesn't get the attention or traffic it deserves.
"the thing to the right of run for your life??? never done it but looks spicy" - That's Tumbling Rainbow. Also, VERY good and looks more ow (and difficult) than it really is.
Two for one sale... vote for good moderates and at the moment easily falling into the top 5.
*Six Pack Crack
*Jumar of Flesh
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john bald
climber
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Feb 27, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
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Not top five, but worthy non the less.
Innervisions
Ali Shuffle
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 27, 2008 - 04:50pm PT
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How was Ali Shuffle? We checked it out while we were out at Equinox... We deemed it "not worth the trouble" while we were out there. Looked really dirty and chossy. Rocky Marciano, on the other hand, looked like the shit!
"*Comfortably Numb" I'd say "no" on this one. Rated .10a but, I'd say 5.8 - face holds all over, super easy. Seems like the OW's in Josh are either heinous hard or rated harder than they actually are. I lead Apocalypse Now, next to Heart of Darkness. Great climb, but no where near .10b.... Too short too!
edit: Doh! Nevermind... Thinking of Championship Wrestling, rather than Comfortably Numb. Too many OW's, not enough time!=)
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BigNick
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Feb 27, 2008 - 05:13pm PT
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A few more moderate OW's or at least with OW sections.
Grit roof (turning the lip)
Between a rock and a hard place (pretty pukey for the grade)
Jumping jack crack (start)
OW (short but pretty full on)
Championship wrestling (soft---too many face holds)
Tumbling rainbow ("bump and grind" through the middle)
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Feb 27, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
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How about some wide for the noobs like me?
Hex marks the poot!
Bat Crack!
Damn Jam!
Others?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Feb 27, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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skinny dip 5.7
Secovar 5.4
Eye 5.4
Drawstring 5.7
Ranger Jan Dick 5.6
upper right ski track 5.3
Mikes Books 5.6
West Chimney 5.6
bat crack 5.5
northwest chimney 5.2
double start 5.7
the other northwest chimney 5.4
n00b paradise
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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jonesing about JT wide... a month to go...
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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Dolphin?
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:33am PT
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I only count OW's I can do, so yeah...
Drawstring is my new favorite 5.7 wide
Bat Crack is a great grovel. Winded at the tip, but no hard moves.
Championship wrestling just puts you in a great mood (birthing noises...)
Hex Mark's the Poot! Long approach, but darn fun.
Damn Jam, chimney and not OW, but just so worth dragging a sport climber up :)
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 13, 2009 - 02:06am PT
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Mussy,
Is that a chunk of lumber? I know you did Harbor Freight, but come on now!
VLG
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 13, 2009 - 02:39am PT
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available @ home depot
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2009 - 10:15am PT
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Centurion, a nice climb, crux on overhanging layback entry and then work it to the top... gear? take one more wide piece than Russ, or just suck it up (and suck up the O's) to the top...
blowup...
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bob
climber
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Mar 13, 2009 - 10:41am PT
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What about Emotional Rescue? That roof looks pretty wide. Haven't done, but would love to. Anyone?
Bob J.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Mar 13, 2009 - 11:24am PT
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Emotional Rescue is pretty darn hard.... pinkies to a wide flare in about 12ft of roof. Really good route and full value. No pics though.
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Mar 13, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
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If Looks Could Kill is really good. Easy to find, on the way to
Crime of the Century, visible from some spot in the Echo
parking lot, just off the trail.
4" to 9" or thereabouts.
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Mar 13, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
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I know Mussy and I had the camera on Emotional Rescue but I guess no one wanted to take their hands off the rope.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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So, you gonna climb with us or what, Cilley?
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jul 10, 2009 - 04:01am PT
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Sure, How fast can you get up here.I'm on for Saturday.Oh, By the way,Who's us?
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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Jul 10, 2009 - 07:04am PT
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post bump to a great man, and to get rid of Onyx the A-hole.
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Chief
climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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This is real remote and I'm not suggesting it's a JT top five OW.
Back in the mid 90's sometime Cos and Raker and I checked out this roof crack out in Oz. It's super obvious up on your left as you walk in, the formation is called the Dark Castle and the crack line is even drawn in in Bartlett's guide.
Turned out to be bigger than it looks, burly cupped hands to hand stacks at the lip. "Huge and Choice", somewhere between 10c and 11c. Well worth the hike.
Perry
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 10, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Hey Perry! Glad to see your words on the pages around here.
Best to you!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 10, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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Wha? No Appendectomy Crack?
fail
5.10d QQ
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
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Cilley tomorrow SPH end of the Beardsly road, be there!
er, maybe Chipmunk flat, could be a party!
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Chief
climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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Likewise Russ.
I'm catching up with all kinds of dinosaurs here!
All the best.
Perry
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
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Jaybro check your email...mac account still work?
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona
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Jul 10, 2009 - 09:17pm PT
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Jaws (offwidth chimney?)
Right On (second pitch)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 10, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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yup, it still works, no love from tennessee though. even though I know it's out there, somewhere.
j bro 513 At Mac (me)dot com
kinda
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Jul 10, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
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I used to climb with not one, but two really sick people who liked 'em harder than i could touch, so this is from a narritive only, the worst of all, which for some makes it the best of all: Human Sacrifice,
short, but demanding..
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jul 10, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Wow...No way! Perry Beckham!!! Cheers from Michael Paul!
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jul 11, 2009 - 12:34am PT
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I'm not so keen on off-width - I'll do my best to climb them, I don't seek them out - but I can't think of a more aptly-named climb than "The Good, The Bad, And The Ugly".
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dfrost7
Social climber
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Jul 11, 2009 - 01:35am PT
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Beautiful thread
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Jul 16, 2009 - 04:33am PT
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Mike's Books?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 16, 2009 - 11:07am PT
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interesting links, Pink
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:07pm PT
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bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
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castaways,throbbing gristle, comfortably numb, and two more
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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IPECAC
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
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New top 5:
Throbbing Gristle
Emotional Rescue
Comfortably Numb
One Armed Giant
and wait for it....
The Honey Badger (my new secret project. Don't even ask)
But to add one you can go and do today, Centurion.
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Johnny K.
climber
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
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The Honey Badger (my new secret project. Don't even ask)
Damn secrets!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
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Honey Badger don't give a sh#t...
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Johnny K.
climber
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Dec 22, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
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Jeez Louise
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 06:46pm PT
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best OW in JT hump
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