Top 5 JT Off-Widths?

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bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 5, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
I was just trying to think of some good off widths in JT....

but I can't think of too many.

What am I missing?
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Feb 5, 2008 - 03:25pm PT
Before JayBro beats me to the punch:
*Maneater
*Inquisition
*Marlin Fishing in Baja
*Comfortably Numb
*Big Bob's Big Wedge

Todd Gordon's site also lists a few...for the intrepid few with high, striped athletic socks, no tape, and a steady supply of vitamin I.

http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/offwidth.htm

Mussy's probably got a few as well:
http://www.widefetish.com
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 5, 2008 - 03:31pm PT
the hobbit hole offwidth by moonlight at 1 a.m. while blazing on fungi with 12 other desert wastels and assorted n'er-do-wells.

git 'er done!
scuffy b

climber
Stump with a backrest
Feb 5, 2008 - 03:45pm PT
My expertise is mainly in looking at the pictures.
Throbbing Gristle wins the beauty contest.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 5, 2008 - 03:47pm PT
I don't know top 5, I've done like 4, you should look at the WideFetish site "Route Beta" page, which has mostly JT OW climbs....

http://www.widefetish.com/pages/route_beta.html


Owlman

Social climber
Montucky
Feb 5, 2008 - 03:56pm PT
Hey John,

Fistacuffs, near Tumbling Rainbow, is very cool.
How about the start to the "Flake", that's real fun...and kinda off width, off body.
Comic Book?

-owlman
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 5, 2008 - 04:25pm PT
You guys ain't even close ('cept scuffy). For routes, not boulder probs (note: most pics lifted from WideFetish, where you clowns should be posing this question to begin with: http://www.widefetish.com )

1. Throbbing Gristle 5.12a - Far and away the best wide crack in Josh by a significant margin. 6"-7", overhanging, leaning, slightly flared, sustained. Good rock. No one move circus trick here. Arm bars, super tight wings, high foot inside, heel toe outside, and if you have big mitts some shitty stacks. Good potential for inducing puking.


2. Point of No Return 5.10c - Short, but what ain't in Josh? Hard ass bombay entrance at about 12-14" with bad consequences if you blow it, tapering to 5" at the top. First good cam pro at about half height. Then, a bonus roof exit on stemming and face holds.


3. Kamikaze 5.10c - Short (30' or so), but good wide crack in a corner. Excellent rock on this. Bonus, it's only about 100' away from Throbbing Gristle About 6" to start and about 4" for alot of it. Crux on the entry and another at a 5" pod higher.

4. Maneater 5.10d - Biz starts right away in a roof. More circus than sustained.

5. Six Pack Crack 5.10b - Soft for the grade, and a little grainy, but quality nonetheless. Mostly 4"-6" with plenty of face stuff to exploit in the crux.

There are others in the running and the order is arbitrary except for Throbbing Gristle which is the best wide thing I've seen or been on in Josh.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 5, 2008 - 04:27pm PT
Done Six Pack Crack on TR... it is a diamond in the rough... more traffic will make it better! Maybe a bit soft on grade, but fun fun fun...


Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Feb 5, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
Got Milk?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 5, 2008 - 04:40pm PT
is wearing clothes aid?
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Feb 5, 2008 - 04:40pm PT
Off route?

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 5, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
While on the wide topic, hey JB, I need some JBs. How come there's nowhere close to Josh to grab a pair? My Altias are toast, and weren't stiff enough anyway. Don't really want to roll the dice on sizing without trying some on.
WBraun

climber
Feb 5, 2008 - 04:50pm PT
Cream, stepin-out, twilight zone, crack of despair

The Al-Qaeda thread terrorist strikes
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Feb 5, 2008 - 05:01pm PT
That's quite an answer Werner--the best JT offwidths ARE in the Valley.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Feb 5, 2008 - 05:18pm PT
good bad ugly: you rang....?

bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
Damn! Nice shots everybody. Throbbing Gristle looks great (and hard). Six Pac Crack looks more my speed however...

Elcapinyoaz - Yes I know. Some store owners just don't know how popular offwidth is these days. Desert Rock Sports in Vegas has 'em if you ever go offwidth-ing in the Red Rocks. Otherwise, I'm pretty good at sizing people online....

Cheers and arm bars y'all, jb

What about Centurion?

Edit: Yeah, the Fish's widefetish.com is da' bomb...
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Feb 5, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
i seemto remember something about the Throbbing Gristle, and the other one, kamaikaze? whatever - maybe these were the ones Alan Nelson took me to?? (he did the FA?) think so, yeah these two were the best OW I did in josh...had fun climbing w/ Alan, man that guy had energy! really fun, very good climber too IMO. maybe i led the other one i can't remeber
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 5, 2008 - 07:03pm PT
Good list Marty, though I haven't topped out on Inquisiton and have never been on big wedge, so can't say

add in Castaways and maybe the fat banana crack (?)or something (gotta think)

The eye is the best route in the monument though, must be a wide move on it!?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 5, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
Does the Snatch count as an offwidth? In Echo Cove, left of Touch & Go? I remember at least some offwidth, though not pure. Easy 5.10.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 5, 2008 - 08:48pm PT
gristle looks cool! gotta be better than the band.

lots of ugly, funky, flared, shortish stuff at josh, but not much in the way of splitters once you leave equinox.

bob's rocks, but how many folks stack that exit? heel-toe and grab the facehold is my memory.

handful of easier things: one move on orphan; championship wrestling, etc.
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