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chossyslab
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 3, 2008 - 02:59pm PT
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Looking for some nice, clean, sustained large dihedrals out in Joshua Tree in the 5.10 and 5.11 range. Any suggestions?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Course and Buggy...Never tried it, but it looks brillian from the road.
Touch and Go (start).
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Darren D.
Social climber
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Course and Buggy...look no further.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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pictures, guys! pictures!
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Hercules looks to be interesting. 11a I think, Lost Horse.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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yeah, coarse & buggy. hyperion is killer. 29 palms is really cool, although it eases off dramatically after the opening steep. scary monsters is an awesome but short dihedral. you could also do banana cracks on the way, although the crux on the right one is not in the open book. pat adams dihedral-- c&b is the easiest of this bunch.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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spiderline...
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HJ
climber
Bozeman, Montana
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rockwork orange
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Yeah, C&B, + Spiderline, others availible, nothing else needed, you Will drive home happy.
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chossyslab
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
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i climbed course and buggy recently so i'm looking for others. A superb climb, one of the best ive done in the monument. if the thin dihedral went for the whole climb it would be absolutely incredible.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Just my opinion...
Hyperion is overrated (in stars). First third is pretty chossy, right up to the crux (had to take a second trip back to pass that, still with a fall, it's a BIG reach). After the arch turns right it improves, but then it's a roof more than a dihedral.
Scary Monsters: too scary for me to lead. Fun toprope.
29 Palms. Nice and clean, but as noted above, it really eases up for the second half.
Coarse and Buggy. Excellent.
Touch and Go. Fun romp.
Hercules. No way in hell that's 11c. Largo admitted as much under cross examination!
Spiderline. Much harder than it looks.
Hidden Arch. Uber-classic and under-appreciated. A must do.
Pat Adams Dihedral. Uber-sandbag. Tough to see your protection as it is mostly a layback. Almost touched the ground on a couple of falls before I sent it.
All I can think of right now.
Brian
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bob
climber
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Hidden Arch is cornerish. Real good. Couple of those 10's on Super Dome are really good. Don't know the names. Natural Selection was awsome. I also remember some 11 corner on Timbuktu Tower that was pretty friggin hard. Polycryogeneticpyrotecnic something or other is the name of the route. Real cool second pitch crack out to an arete.
Bob J.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Is Light Saber a dihedral? Maybe it was "Star Wars"...
We were out on geology tour road, and it was a super cool, somewhat awkward corner. I think it was called light saber..
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Murf
climber
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Naked Reagan ( Sorry DE - Raygun! ), short crux dihedral section.
Rites of Passage (Frontier Wall, QM )- Looks awesome, has *anyone* here done it?
Snake Book
Bridge of Sighs - While I know folks that lead it, probably a better TR.
Poaching Bighorn - My dim recollection is that the bottom is dihedrally?
Greenhorn Dihedral -
Wavecrest
Has anyone here ever tried Warrior Eagle or knows the 411 on how many pins where used on the FA? It is out of the range at a reported.12b, but it looks spectacular.
I personally wouldn't consider Hercules a dihedral.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Yeah, I guess you're probably right there murf.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Disposition Crevice .11b is pretty good,
Coarse and Buggy is fantastic.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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As a lead, Hercules is probably 12a/b unless you have knifeblade hands. And I still say 29 Palms is hard as sh#t if you have thick fingers. I had to stem it and could barely stay on. Hidden Arch is really a good one and I think rarely gets done. I had more trouble on that one than all the rest because I couldn't fit into the slot and had to chimney. Nearly killed me.
Course and Buggy is all time, IMO.
JL
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Good list from Brian.
I had also thought of Scary Monsters, which is good value for being so short. I remember seeing Leavit toprope that not long after busting his leg and watching him pull a move where both hands were on one side of the corner and both feet smearing on the other. Wild. Certainly don't have to climb it that way though.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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hidden arch was hard and weird.
and hyperion used to be easier. i remember a bunch of my b.c. friends coming back to the campground one day carrying what had been that nice handhold from the crux move.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Others not mentioned:
Classic Corner
False Classic Corner
Thrill of Desire
Book of Brilliant Things
Warrier Eagle
Dihedralman
Bighorn Dihedral
Dihedron
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