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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 15, 2018 - 12:45pm PT
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What, I’m sposed to run down to my basement maintenant? 🤨
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nutstory
Trad climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Dec 15, 2018 - 02:02pm PT
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Oui, maintenant! ;-)
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 15, 2018 - 02:07pm PT
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Speaking of old scary ice screws. I bought this Charlet Moser Made in FR screw about 1971 & it shows at top in our gear photo taken in Sept. 1972 in the Bugaboos parking lot.
I never had the confidence to use it, except for opening wine. It worked well on corks.
7.5" long, 5/16" thick.
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nutstory
Trad climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Dec 15, 2018 - 02:21pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Feb 17, 2019 - 07:09pm PT
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One of the ice screws has a mfg sticker on it showing that it is Salewa, but the other ice screw is unmarked. Both ice screw tubes are the same, but the carabiner clip loop is different. Is the unmarked ice screw also a Salewa?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 18, 2019 - 01:05am PT
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Stephane, interesting to see there was an axe to go with those screws. I did exactly one ice climb and it was with those screws. Never touched ice again.
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nutstory
Trad climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Feb 18, 2019 - 03:51am PT
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Joseph, you have done much more than me in your Life. I have never done any ice climb at all ;-)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2019 - 01:50pm PT
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Marty- Your mystery screw looks lik an updated version of the marked Salewa. I suspect that they realized that having a bit more room designed into the eye loop detail made placement with an ice tool easier.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Feb 19, 2019 - 07:21pm PT
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Steve - The two screws were together in a ebay lot.
Here are three more unknown ice screws. Any ideas on the mfg or how old they are?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 19, 2019 - 07:31pm PT
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No idea...I've seen ring screws like the one on the right that are 60s era by my best estimation. Post that shot on the Classic Ice Primer thread.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Feb 20, 2019 - 10:04am PT
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Feb 20, 2019 - 10:08am PT
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Anybody know anything about this steel monster? Markings are hard to make out....looks like 06 with an arrow and 10?
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Feb 20, 2019 - 10:22am PT
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Wow! Steel?
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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Feb 28, 2019 - 09:34pm PT
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I’m in the midst of a gear trade, the six pieces below, plus 4 bongs (no pic yet) will be arriving in a week or so.
I’ve identified three out of six in the pic.
1- Peck Ny-chock
2- ice piton? Never seen anything like it
3- Salewa Warthog - early 70’s?
4- no idea, ice or rock? The ring is pretty sweet though.
5- pretty cool snow/ice stake (or whatever you wanna call it) I might take this bad boy into the alpine, looks light
6- Salewa Tube - early 70’s?
Peace
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Feb 28, 2019 - 11:37pm PT
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#4 is also an ice piton from the way back machine. Cool!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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No new ideas, but the #3 photo Salewa Warthog dates from the mid to late 1970's. Salewa replaced it with a slightly different warthog in the late 70's. After the UIAA tested all available ice screws in the late 70's, a write-up of the test in Mountain Magazine showed warthogs did not have much holding power in ice, as compared to tubular screws.
Here's a Salewa Warthog we placed on the Chouinard Route on Mt. Fay, in the Canadian Rubblies, in 1978.
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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Thanks Bruce and Fritz.
Mt.Fay, sweet. Ya those warthogs look beefy but I wouldn’t want to whip on one!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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grover- Nice score!
#1- Peck Ny-Chock 1970s
#2- may be Stubai. It compares to the orange bent eye ice pitons I have on the display board. My guess it is a Stubai early 1960s. Stubai name starts in 1958/1959.
#3 is a Salewa Spiral piton that Chouinard was selling mentioned in the Chouinard 1969 catalog. In the 1972 Chouinard catalog the name was changed to Salewa Warthog.
#4 is Werk-Fulpmes-Ralling goes back to the 1950s.
#5 ice tube I have not seen yet. Nice piece! The slots on it are similar to two ice pitons I have from Ever New from Japan, 1970s.
#6 Salewa tubular ice screw mid to late 1960s. Chouinard was showing these pitons in the late 1960s Chouinard catalog.
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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Thanks Marty!
I’ll have a look for markings on the mystery ice piton when it arrives.
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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Mar 11, 2019 - 12:41pm PT
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The mystery picket is made by Interalp-Camp
And #2 has no markings besides the previous owners name stamped in it.
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