Old mystery pro

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AE

climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2017 - 05:41pm PT
As a sidebar to these many varied designs, I'd love to read about anyone who actually used, and was successfully caught by, some of the most bizarre, obtuse, curious, and peculiar pieces of protection. Way too many ex: the rubber treaded Trangos and inscrutable polygonal rotating, sliding wedge affairs look so frightening, unstable, and impractical as to be useful only as collectibles. Carabiners were originally used by firemen way before climbers discovered them, so large odd ones are not unique, just not what we are used to seeing.
MOAC was one of my first, and favorite nuts, and carried it on 1" sling big enough to go around my neck, a method that seems blatantly deadly now. I carried the one-hole Troll nuts two or three to a single over-the-shoulder runner for years, and rappelled off one that we had to bash into a shallow groove, spit on, and hope it froze in before committing to it. Always wondered if I'd find it at the base in the summer. Titons 4 and 5 also could be carried that way, after I stopped using them on the rack; the narrow head could slot into the back of right angled cracks where otherwise much smaller insecure nuts had to be used.
I also had a habit of falling on the first placement of each new item; #2 Friend, 50 footer, no problem; #1 RP, 8 footer, just fine; 6 footer onto a blind Rock N'Roller placement, also caught me; small TCU on Crankenstein at Vedauwoo, popped right out into my face with George Hurley's 1/4" bolt keeping me off the ground. Never fell on it, but placed a Dolt spoon piton several times, nearly impossible to remove due to the reverse flair shape, but it still looks pristine, a little CroMo jewel. Dave Rearick osage orange nut pulled out of Umph Slot is another display-only item. An early mentor had one of those coathanger ice screws catch his team on a slope in the Alps, after one or two more modern tubular screws failed. Whew.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 3, 2017 - 05:52pm PT
Hey AE,
I just sent you an email throught the Supertopo mail.Please let me know if it came through to you.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Dec 15, 2017 - 07:33pm PT

Steve - I tried contacting many people through ST email and never got a response. The email system has been down for many months. Merry Holidays!




This lot of Forrest Titons was recently listed on ebay. The #6 Titon has the FM stamp with no tree outline.
ebay Titon lot
ebay Titon lot
Credit: karabin museum
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 20, 2017 - 09:39am PT

Cool old Leeper nut tool...

Nut tool - Leeper
Nut tool - Leeper

No mystery...
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Dec 20, 2017 - 11:09am PT
Back to those Boreal Fires. The photos are comparing very different ages of shoes. The Wild Country tag was a common way to bring something into your product line when you were the exclusive distributor within a country or region.

The Boreal logo is still clearly visible on the ankle bone circular patch. These are some of the older ones with the brass lace eyelets. The second photo shows Fires from near the end of their reign, probably in the early 1990's. From that point, I believe they morphed into the Ballet.

K
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Dec 21, 2017 - 01:49am PT

Marlow - You are showing a Leeper Jiggle-O nut tool but I have not seen that Jiggle-O style before. If you ever find another, I know of this museum in Arizona that is looking for one. Wow it is beautiful! The regular Jiggle-O nut tool has 7 holes but yours has 8 and the hook is completely different.

The generations are identified by the end of the nut tool. First generation has three cuts on the end. So the nut tool you show Marlow may be the first batch of Jiggle-Os made. Second generation has two cuts on the end and tiny hole added at hook, third generation has one cut (flat) on the end.

Looks like a mystery to me!

Leeper Jiggle-O nut tool, second generation
Leeper Jiggle-O nut tool, second generation
Credit: karabin museum
Leeper nut tools showing Jiggle-O first and third generation.
Leeper nut tools showing Jiggle-O first and third generation.
Credit: karabin museum




karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Dec 27, 2017 - 09:06am PT


Does anybody know who produced these nuts? Are they early Wild Country Stones?

Credit: karabin museum

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 27, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
Yes on Wild Country. They might have been called Microrocks if I recall correctly.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Dec 27, 2017 - 09:12pm PT


Steve - awesome, Thanks!


 Next question: Are these Wild Country Stones? Hmmmmmm.....


Credit: karabin museum
Credit: karabin museum





WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
Dec 27, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
WC Microrocks? (0-2)
WC Microrocks? &#40;0-2&#41;
WC Microrocks? (0-2)
Credit: WyoRockMan

WC Stones (1 & 4)
WC Stones &#40;1, 4&#41;
WC Stones (1, 4)
Credit: WyoRockMan

These have less rounded edges than yours Marty, different groove in the casting as well.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Dec 28, 2017 - 12:08am PT
WILD COUNTRY Micro Rocks (1983) #0 to #6
WILD COUNTRY Stones (1991) #0 to #6
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Dec 28, 2017 - 06:42pm PT




So on my display it looks like I have WC pretending to be HB.......I can fix that!


WyoRockMan - Your Stones are really cool! The ones I have don't have the stars on them and are completely unmarked. I wonder if the Stones you have are first generation, or the ones I have predate yours? Also yours have a channel on the front face and mine have a scoop..........Hmmmmmmm



nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Dec 29, 2017 - 12:34am PT
Marty, Hughie Banner made the Micro Rocks for Wild Country before he set up his own business, HB Climbing Equipment.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Jan 2, 2018 - 09:10pm PT
Credit: thebravecowboy

?
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Jan 3, 2018 - 08:11am PT
Just keep driving it deeper as the rock erodes away.
Roots

Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
Jan 4, 2018 - 12:35pm PT
Or pull it and sell to me... : )
xCon

Social climber
909
Jan 4, 2018 - 04:05pm PT
that stone polishes up real nice where the slings get at it...
ClimbingOn

Trad climber
NY
Jan 5, 2018 - 03:42pm PT
These Coca Cola logo pins showed up on eBay. Were these officially sanctioned? I've never seen them before and am curious as to if there is a story behind them.



Link to auction: https://tinyurl.com/colapitons

If someone here buys them, I'd like to purchase just one from you.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Jan 5, 2018 - 03:54pm PT



I have not found any connection between Chouinard and Coke in any advertisement way, but this is the third time these same pitons have been posted on ebay.



thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Jan 5, 2018 - 08:39pm PT
they're done now, and it certainly coulna be some tape eh boys?
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