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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Marlow - I looked through a pile of Wild Country catalogs and in many of the years Wild Country sold other manufacturers shoes. I see no listing for a Wild Country brand shoe. The shoe in question is definitely a Boreal, that at some time Wild Country was distributing this Boreal shoe under the Wild Country name. I still have more Wild Country research to do for the Mixed Nuts display and maybe the answer will appear in the price lists.
nutstory - What company do you credit for the first created nut tool?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 13, 2018 - 05:54am PT
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Here, once again, I would like to express all my gratitude to Marlow for discovering, buying, and generously giving these amazing home-made spring-loaded camming devices as a present to the Nuts Museum. At present we know very little about these devices. The seller (Hansjörg Struwe) climbed mainly in Western Germany (Pfalz). The designer of the cams Jacques (?) died a few years ago. He was from Viernheim. The region Pfalz is comparable to Eastern Germany called Elbsandstein. They climbed there a lot. Hansjörg Struwe told that the cams are similar to "Friends" which were very popular. His friend, Jacques (?), made the tooling and the calculation of tensile strength and so on. They are approximately 20 years old.
From the historical point of view, it is interesting to notice that Ray Jardine, Kris Walker (Forrest Mountaineering) and Ron Kirk (CMI) worked on a similar passive protection: a double inverted cam. Wild Country even advertized a passive cam nut in 1983, but they did never market it, the Cosmic Cam. These home-made devices are a spring-loaded version of these chocks.
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Ballo
Trad climber
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Jan 13, 2018 - 02:17pm PT
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Nutstory, those look cool and terrifying at the same time
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Ballo
Trad climber
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Jan 13, 2018 - 02:20pm PT
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Your images don't show, but I have a CLOG "nut" shaped like a star and perhaps meant to be used like a small hex. I tried placing that thing over a dozen times before taking it off my rack in frustration. What a POS!
CLOG ascenders were almost as crappy. Not sure if they ever made anything safe or decent (apologies if Mr Clog is reading this).
There were a lot of experimental gear in the 70s which didn't appear to see much time in the lab. Various sliding nuts which were probably trying to replicate the knifeblade-aluminum head combo, steel nuts, and the worst piece of pro I ever tried to place on lead: the SMC camlock. I don't know if anyone ever trusted those things and lived.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jan 13, 2018 - 03:27pm PT
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just picked up a pika nutbuster like the one pictured. also grabbed a titanium nut tool from same guy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2018 - 04:10pm PT
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Those weighted nut tools were designed to allow climbers to lightly test once-plentiful fixed pitons as well as to remove stubborn nuts.
The two camming nut designs shown up thread strike me as being dependent on sitting the point at the bottom of the shape on something in order to have any real holding power much like a Tricam. Otherwise the curvature seems wrong for placement in a parallel-sided crack.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jan 14, 2018 - 02:17am PT
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Ballo, your Clog "nut" shaped like a star is probably a Clog Cog.
"Mr Clog", Denny Moorhouse managed International Safety Components. "Mrs Clog", the lovely Shirley Smith sadly passed away in 1998.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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I received an old mystery ice axe today. It's a Fritsch from the 1930s/40s marked Dick Ullman. If it is what I think it is, it's a cool old item.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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^Marty - what's the mystery?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Four Bonaiti steel carabiners. First one side, then the other. The upper two carabiners are not carrying any firm name. The lower two are carrying Bonaiti (Cassin), which possibly make the two first Bonaiti only carabiners. The upper three are of the same dimensions.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Marlow - For being made of steel those carabiners are in great condition!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 10, 2018 - 11:24am PT
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Marty.
Yes, the carabiners are well kept, and the big ones are very heavy.
Here's a mystery: Two belay devices without a name or logo on them.
Who made these?
The heart shaped one with three holes is possibly made by Hermione Cooper, Wild Country Raptor: http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=33032
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Mar 10, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
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Marlow - Hmmm maybe this is a question for rope device master Dr. Gary Storrick. I have not seen the belay device on the right before and it looks really cool. First thing that comes to mind is maybe Pierre Allain? The left device looks like a WC Raptor.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 11, 2018 - 12:39am PT
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Also I thought of Pierre Allain, but looking at the PA belay devices Nutstory has posted prevously, I didn't find this one. Could still be PA, but maybe a Wild Country experiment?
Some pipe ice pitons, the ones to the right are Swiss as seen from the REI catalog Marty posted previously (see photos below). Who made the two on the left side?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 11, 2018 - 07:42am PT
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I've seen boxes of those slotted tube and ring "ice pitons" at a military surplus shop in the US. They were signed "ice tent pegs" :)
K
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 11, 2018 - 07:44am PT
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Then: Either it is a pipe ice piton with holes like the one in the REI catalog or it is a military tent plug... Or both ^^^^
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Mar 11, 2018 - 08:09am PT
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quiz:
application:
see port a wrap
http://youtu.be/Q5R7q_wCcoc
first item on left, not the same function ... but had me lookin'!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 11, 2018 - 08:14am PT
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Holy moly...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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1973 #6-10 Titons "FM" stamp (no tree) uncolored - #10 2 slots (First Generation)
Let us know!