Old mystery pro

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Basilisk

Ice climber
New Hampshire
Oct 29, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
That would explain the less-than-phenomenal threadwork around the blue then. Was it common to add different colored leather to shoes?
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 29, 2008 - 06:34pm PT
Yes, almost universal in some abrasive areas, like vedauwoo and josh.
knieveltech

Social climber
Raleigh NC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
This thread is awesome. I am having a blast drooling over all of the antique pro. Speaking of which I've made a few additions to my collection recently, I'll try to post pictures this evening..
knieveltech

Social climber
Raleigh NC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 06:22pm PT


Clog nuts and hexes



Colorado Nut Company hexes, with a single clog hex that managed to sneak into the group



EB Super Grattons, mint in bag, they're even my size!



Forrest stuff. Unsure what each type of piece is called.



The absolute pride and joy of my active rack, my #3 and #4 Colorado Nut Company I-beam chocks. These things are absolutely magical. So much so I'm in the process of fabricating replacements so I can retire the antiques.



No clue on these guys, any ideas?


Likewise, no idea on this one. No markings on the piece.

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v703/211/39/1055488021/n1055488021_195721_6958.jpg

Campbell saddlewedges




SMC hexes and camlocks



Forrest titons?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 24, 2008 - 06:27pm PT
knievel, could one or both of your "no clue" wired wedges be Forrest Foxheads?
He made something like that, a smaller MOAC shape built around a copperhead.
The single, flexible wire worked well in placements -- I thought they were great.
scuffy b

climber
On the dock in the dark
Nov 24, 2008 - 08:30pm PT
I think the copperhead-inside-the-wedge is the Foxhead,
can't remember the name of the squashed copperheads.
FWIW, the only time I've seen a copperhead placed, it was used
as a nut.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 24, 2008 - 08:35pm PT
can't remember the name of the squashed copperheads.

This just came to me -- weren't they called "arrowheads"?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 24, 2008 - 08:36pm PT
Yes - Arrowheads it is.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 24, 2008 - 09:20pm PT
From the Climber's Sourcebook, by Steven and Anne Schneider, 1976
Forrest Chocks









scuffy b

climber
On the dock in the dark
Nov 24, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
Wouldn't that be Bob & Anne Schneider?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 24, 2008 - 09:34pm PT
Not according to the cover of the book...more correctly, it should be "Steven" Schneider. Apparently of New Hampshire.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 24, 2008 - 09:38pm PT
Clog hexes...looks like a home swag job... check out the size of the cable in that big one (dime for scale).


Clog hex heads...


The whole assortment of Forrest stuff, plus one small Clog hex.


Closer shot of Arrowheads and Foxheads. Showroom fresh!


Arrowheads with Foxhead
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 24, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
FWIW, the only time I've seen a copperhead placed, it was used
as a nut.


I think that was their original purpose -- hammering copperheads in as bashies was a secondary development, though it quickly became their main use.

I carried a set of copperheads for a while just as nuts for free climbing protection -- they seemed to do the job.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 24, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
Check out this Troll nut... it's nearly just a cube shape. Barely any slope to the sides at all.



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 24, 2008 - 10:40pm PT
Bill Forrest, as an accomplished clean aid climber, was the first to offer two cable lengths in his products knowing that three or four extra inches of height can sometimes make or break a reach problem and that the weight savings was also a consideration. He sure made some money on Copperheads until the cheapskates like me discovered the boating supply.
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Nov 25, 2008 - 12:16am PT
A couple of posters have stated that MOACs came in only one size. I have two identical chocks, unstamped, whose top surface is 15/16" by 1&3/8". I believe these are the regular MOACs pictured in this thread. But I also have a chock that is clearly stamped "MOAC 4". The top surface on this one is 1.5" by 1&1/4".

I also have an eiger 7 and an eiger 10, which are early hexcentrics. Anybody know anything about these?
Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Nov 25, 2008 - 03:59pm PT
Regarding the EBs, used and mint.

Towards the end of the 70s EBs went from being the shoe of choice, to somethingh no one would touch. The reason being that they went from a glued on separate sole and rand, to a completely moulded sole and rand unit. These were made of a harder rubber and were nowhere near as useable as their predesessors, which pretty much ruled the roost on both sides of the Atlantic.

This almighty c*#k up with the soles coincided with the arrival of several other shoes (like the early blue Asolos) which presaged in turn the arrival of Fires.

The EBs in the photo are 'late models' I think.

Best,

Steve
Chris2

Trad climber
Nov 25, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
The people I know that have those Colorado Nuts...loves them. Wish I had a metal shop!
knieveltech

Social climber
Raleigh NC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2008 - 05:07pm PT
I happen to have access to a metal shop and have found a source for 6061 T6 aluminum I-beam of the correct dimensions. Once I get the prototype replicas fabricated I'm sending them off to be pull tested. Assuming they perform as expected I'd be willing to make sets for folks.
Chris2

Trad climber
Nov 25, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
Cool...email me direct I will buy some!
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