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Messages 101 - 120 of total 147 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Rokjox

Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
Apr 17, 2011 - 11:20am PT
I tried a couple times and couldn't find my way beyond about 3 pitches above the Oasis. No bolts that I could find, and nothing with a big enough dimple to hang anything else, even taking 130 plus foot runouts. I can take runouts, but believe belays should have at least ONE anchor ...
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 17, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Tom

You might have missed this as I posted it on the Sacherer Thread a while back. Maybe this will jolt your memory cells? Appears here, you were going to climb the established route from Coonyard to the Oasis and up?

"Funny, how several pages from the old Coonyard Register can tie-in a list of personalities, eras, sagas and tales.

We have Cochrane's epic with Sacherer, Chela as part of his early climbing career and Boo who was rejected by Frank for an early Apron ascent. Good to see Qamar, Raymond, Kamps, Rowell and frequent Coonyard aficionado Beck in the picture to boot.

Register courtesy of the Mountain Record Collection of the Bancroft Library UC Berkeley."
Coonyard Register-courtesy Bancroft Library Mountain Record Section, U...
Coonyard Register-courtesy Bancroft Library Mountain Record Section, UC Berkeley
Credit: guido
LongAgo

Trad climber
Apr 17, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
Guido, If you look at my verbal description of the Hinterland and compare it to the topo, the two seem pretty close. However, your topo seems to imply going DOWN from a fixed pin before a big traversing area. Did I read that right? I don't recall fixed pro or down climbing to get on with the traverse leading to the pitch to the bowl. Maybe I forgot, but I do remember the traverse was pretty hard and pretty out there. Hmm, maybe I was off route..

Karl, There was loose rock on the climb when we did it, and dirt and lots of growth of one sort or another. Dangerous? Probably not very if careful.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo

guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 17, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
Here is my orignal write-up on the Hinterland, maybe it will clarify things a bit?
Credit: guido
Hinterland
Hinterland
Credit: guido






guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 17, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
This might be more readable?
Hinterland
Hinterland
Credit: guido
LongAgo

Trad climber
Apr 18, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
Guido,
Very interesting. Seems you did an aid pendulum on the FA of Hinterland which Bob followed free, with a fixed piton up high to protect the traverse, which you then pulled the rope through after the traverse. Interesting how the history of routes gets deeper and more exact with delving. Brings to mind another climb Bob followed free where leader used a bit of aid, if I read your description right. Same thing happened on Fairview Dome regular route, where Mort Hemple used a point of aid and Bob followed free, the first all free ascent of the route though the record books show Roper and Powell doing the first free in 1962, presumably because both did all moves free.

At any rate, the traverse is coming back to me. I found no fixed pin, but do remember climbing down some (didn't seem 30 feet but maybe) then left across tricky face wondering about falling and swinging back. The second following this area also has to wonder about swinging. High protection and pull through probably would be a good idea, but I don't think we did so because we left nothing behind. So there's a point for others to ponder if they don't find a fixed piton - maybe bring something to leave.


Tom Higgins
LongAgo
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 18, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
Cool, Tom-makes sense after all these years, (yikes almost 50), have to go with the written history. I remember writing this while sitting thru a mechanical draw class lecture in high school. Teacher was an avid sailor and got me interested in sailing for the first time. C'est la vie.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Apr 18, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
Thanks very much, Guido; I did see that Coonyard summit log when you posted it earlier, and was very surprised to see it. I would not have guessed that there was any evidence left of our climb other than my memories of line itself with no bolts or fixed pins.

Sacherer told me we were doing an entirely new route once we got above Coonyard; something other than the Coonyard to Oasis route or Hinterland. Our route seriously needed some bolts, at least for belays. We were run out to the max for about three pitches with no real pro, and we didn't carry a bolt kit.

High up, I led a pitch with no pro except a very sketchy belay; Sacherer led the next to a death stance with no viable anchor; and I led the next with no pro to a well protected belay on an area of broken ledges that I'm guessing was well to the left of the Oasis.

I'd never go back there without knowing there were bolts or a way to place them. I would have felt a lot more comfortable with Kamps and/or Higgins and a bolt kit.

I don't recall ever going to something like the Oasis. I'd still like to go back up there with someone who knows all the routes, and try to figure out where Frank and I went. I clearly remember some of the pitches. Last summer I did find the starting pitches that we did that day, but my partner was not up for going higher.

Edit: Possibly Frank had intended to follow the previously established lines; but he indicated otherwise to me at the time; and it was all news to me. I was not familiar with those routes then or now; just the one line we took that day. I do find it hard to believe that what we were climbing above Coonyard had been done before; if only because of the lack of protection; not even a bolt for a belay stance. Does someone know whether the previously climbed Coonyard to Oasis and Hinterland routes had any bolts at the time?
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 18, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
"Sea of Friction"-prior to GPS, we all had to rely on dead reckoning.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 18, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
The other route that goes to the rim is Galactic Hitchhiker.

A fine route (could use an extra bolt or two that the FA Party admitted they meant to go back and place but didn't get around to it on pitch 18, 19 and 20 of the topo, otherwise well protected) Almost all the fixed angles of the route have fallen out by now too and some belay pins too!

Topo is here

http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/Galactic_HitchhikerTopo.html

Trip report here

http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/Galactic_Hitchhiker.html

This route would have been controversial too but nobody gave a crap about Apron heroics by the time they did it

peace

karl
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 18, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
So my big confusion about the Hinterland is where it traverses out from the overhang above the oasis. Anybody want to guess where the hinterland traverse is compared to where GH climbs a slab to a ledge to a corner and over the corner on pitch 17 and 18 below?

LongAgo

Trad climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 11:04pm PT
Karl,

How fantastic to have such a fine route not traveled much, and right there in busy Yosemite climbing center with short approach and shuttle or car down. Always have loved doing routes with scanty info or lost in history, only there for those digging a bit deep. I once wrote a tribute to so called beta-mins. It's on my website:

http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=20

Wow, can't guess the answer to your question about where Hinterland goes off left. I'm thinking one way to get a grip might be to work from a good hi res picture of the general area in the right glancing light, then use Guido topo on this thread and work backwards from the prominent bowl by both features and feet in the topo. Then "map" that over your detailed topo and distances and features of GH. The result might be wrong but enough to get you up there on an exploration mission.

So fun to go by hook or crook versus detailed and correct info and strings of bolts like a path, seems to me. Who knows, you might even find the old Kamps/McKeown piton worth a million history bucks to some of us, but of course worthless to the world at large. Be sure to report back!

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Apr 19, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
I'm in. Tell me when we go.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Apr 19, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
Early summer, lets go.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 20, 2011 - 12:01am PT
I'm in.

Hinterland it is.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 12:50am PT
Here's my best guess from about 1 year ago:
Glacier Point Apron - Left, from east of Happy Isles. <br/>
Oasis, The Hin...
Glacier Point Apron - Left, from east of Happy Isles.
Oasis, The Hinterland, Galactic Hitchhiker. U = U-shaped bowl
(exact line of Hinterland traverse is a guess; it may be slightly higher)
Credit: Clint Cummins
And above the U, guido's topo shows it going up the right line, not the left line.

Glacier Point Apron, Oasis, Hinterland, Galactic Hitchhiker, <br/>
xRez vi...
Glacier Point Apron, Oasis, Hinterland, Galactic Hitchhiker,
xRez view from top of Half Dome
Credit: xRez/CC
Here's a second guess, with the traverse at a slightly higher level.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:06am PT
Great Job Clint!

The thing that confuses me is where the Hinterland traverses left where Galactic goes up. When GH crosses the big corner left onto the face, there's a poorly protected 5.10 traverse over to a loose block and up and back to the belay. Alternately, you could climb poor pro 5.10 even harder straight up the face. I could never seem to see an easier way that would get you off to the left (but had somewhat tunnel vision cause i hate walk-the-plank face pitches where you got not much to hang onto with your hands

Peace

Karl

Edit: Sorta doubt your second Guess as it ascend territory right of GH that has lots of 5.10 and stuff off the the right is not obvious and not likely 5.9 or easier. The lowest horizontal band might be the most likely weak spot for traversing
LongAgo

Trad climber
Apr 21, 2011 - 10:23pm PT

For what my memory is worth, I vote for pic 1 not 2 for the traverse, across what looks like a ledge systems, but then there is the drop down (still don't think it is 30' but will defer to the old scrawled Guido topo looking like a Pirate's map) and hard traverse and mysterous lost piton and ... adventure to come for a party.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Rokjox

Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
Apr 21, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
I remember twice ending up whay the hell out there somewhere, no pro at all for 140 feet, ending up in a steepening bowl. And then having to downclimb the entire friction pitch.

I had no idea I was needing to traverse left, it may have been before topos, and we didn't have a description. And I don't remember being able to see the corner from where I was. Or I would have been trying to reach it. Just knowing to go left may be enough. Find ANY place to go left and you are likely back on the route. Its not like there are a ton of alternatives up there.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:04pm PT
There is a Hinterland topo in the 1974 Nichol, Livesey and Nannery topo guide, too.
Full guidebook on Ed's site:
http://home.comcast.net/%7Ee.hartouni/climbing/RCiY/RCiY.html
http://home.comcast.net/%7Ee.hartouni/climbing/RCiY/page_34.pdf "Apron to Rim"
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