Wide Wednesday - crack size evilution

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Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 6, 2009 - 02:05am PT
Here's one for ya;...hasn't been climbed either....yet......and you can go climb it one Wednesday;.....(Hope I haven't gotten to it on Tuesday.....)

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Apr 21, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
5.14 Guy meets Ahab:

http://www.patagonia.com/usa/patagonia.go?assetid=40838

Ahab, Yosemite

by Nicolas Favresse
Spring 2009 - Classic Climbs

The weight of the obstacle ahead of me was almost unbearable. Wide and open, the crack was about to throw itself down on top of me. I shook a few minutes at the last resting position, reminding myself what brought me here: On expedition in Patagonia I was once told, “No Euro can onsight Ahab.” Considering its relatively low grade (5.10b), this claim struck me with curiosity and I was sparked to explore the challenge. Later, what I read in the guidebook fueled me more: “Ahab is a tough offwidth/flare ... Ninetynine out of a hundred 5.13 gym climbers will be completely shut down by this climb.”

I took a last breath then charged. After 15 minutes of desperately squeezing myself up the hold-free smooth open walls of Ahab, I had the impression of good progress. Suddenly, I slipped only a few inches and realized all my gain was lost. I tested a few different positions, but all of them felt hopeless. As I groveled back up, I was tempted to give up. The only thing that fueled my determination was my progress, measured by the minuscule crystals in the granite that scraped at my bare knees and elbows. The intense effort put me into a kind of a trance.

Every inch was a battle. Early in the climb I was pacing myself, now I was just giving it everything I had. After an hour of fighting, the sight of the anchor brought me out of my trance. I had never been in the red zone for so long. I clipped myself in, high from the adrenaline, and looked up. All I could see was the infinite ocean of perfect granite of El Capitan. In comparison, Ahab below me looked so insignificant. A few minutes later, my stomach rolled over emptying all there was left in me. Ahab cleansed me. It reminded me that each rock is unique and so is its challenge.

dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Apr 21, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
Hey, Guy's

DR wrote me about The Wide Machine said it was so hard he just KBed and drank beer! (is this the one?)

Wow, it does look pretty hard I like the Xmas lights, nice touch.

Bruce
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 21, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
Prarie dog village, we missed you in Josh last week, how's things?
We ran into, both, the Colonel, and Larry Scrithfield, on the same day. Did
you know Larry, biitd?

Extended Shanti interaction, as well, you shoulda been there!
scuffy b

climber
Frigate Matilda
Apr 21, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
Hey dogtown, I'd say Yeah, this is the one.
But...what's KBed?
I know he drank beer.
Then we talked about beardnetting trout in the Hinterlands,
and I got some really bad hiccups.

How's the weather?
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Apr 21, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
Yeah, Scuff

KB= kick back

DR was funny I LOL.

The weather is great! I was at the crag today lots of snow on the ground but melting fast!

Hey, Jaybro

Yeah, I wish I was out in josh last week it snow for three days out here. (shit)

No I don't know Larry.

I'm planning on heading up to the tower to see the Colonel soon though.

DR said he is going to make it out to Vedauwoo this year in August when you guy's come out.
That would be cool I like Doug.

Bruce.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Apr 21, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
Hey dogtown,
DR has it right! That's what I do to. Flail a few times and then pop a beer and KB. I have actually made it to the top, but not often. Good conversation though!
Zander
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 21, 2009 - 11:20pm PT
Say hi to that Colonel guy for us!

And i thought KB was *Kale Boy


seen here with The Colonel, in Riverside, last Wednesday KB-ing.








* Mike Friedrichs.
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Apr 21, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
I will Guy's

I'm going to be climbing fulltime after May 11 so I'll be seeing him a bunch. (I hope he's OK with that.) I guess I'm just a lucky Dog eh?

Bah ha ha ha .

Bruce

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 22, 2011 - 12:31am PT
The more wyde that comes, the more it gives
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 17, 2014 - 01:07am PT

For those of you who have climbed the narrows simulator at Wide/Wyde Wednesdays AND climbed the Steck Salathe: did the simulator help?

I'm guessing yes, but I've done neither.
Messages 41 - 51 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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