Discussion Topic |
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2008 - 12:48am PT
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Tonight was another Wide Wednesday sesh - with Jaybro, spyork and BoKu as well as Gary Carpenter and myself.
The crack size changes to be more challenging as we master the different widths. There is enough of a biometric difference in hand, fist, knee, foot size as well as thigh length, forearm length, etc so that someone usually has a relatively easy time, and others are just suffering.
Gary enjoys finding the size that maximizes the suffering - "pain is weakness leaving the body" - and so after the last session a few weeks ago he asks for input on the next size.
I suggest "Ahab" sizes... which I remember as a tapering down crack which is just a bit too long for my hand-to-elbow to lock on the lip and too large for an interior heel-toe, and at the top ok with both of those things... something like 14" on the lip and 11" at the back of his 4' deep Wonder Wide Crack Simulator™
So the monster is flared, but not overhanging.
Gary set this up a week or so ago... but he was skeptical of the difficulty:
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 11:34:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Carpenter
Reply-To: Carpenter
To: scuffy_b, Jaybro, Ed Hartouni, spyork, davidji, zander, BoKu, Aaron
Subject: Thursday??
I re-set the crack to Ed's specifications last weekend. 14"x12" flare at the base and
11"x9" at the top. My guess is that it will be pretty easy. May have to add a Scuffy style constriction part way up.
The weather looks iffy for Thursday. If it's not raining and you want to try it out I'll be home Thursday and you can come by. Usual time 6:30.
G
We didn't go out that Thursday 'cause it was cold and raining, something about climbing in the rain that didn't seem appealing.
This evening we had a go. I went first.
I must say that Gary was retreating from his fear that it would be "pretty easy" as he had goofed around in the bottom a little bit on the weekend.
It was sort of the same as Ahab except that the way Ahab leans tells you if your technique is any good instantly, by spitting you out. Gary's crack is vertical so you can hangdog... which I did. Also, the allthread provides a nice obstacle to get around... it is off!..
Eventually I worked out a strenuous sequence and touched the top (referred to sometimes as "biting the cupcake," see Jaybro's OW birthday picks from the summer). Next spyork gave it a shot, then BoKu, Gary got to the top, he was worrying that he ate dinner earlier, a good worry. He hangdogged too, I felt vendicated. Finally Jaybro, our WOW (Wizard of Offwidth™™™) got in and had a great time struggling up the crack.
WE HAD A NICE PROBLEM ON OUR HANDS!
I think this size shut everyone down (Jaybro excluded as he pretty much got up without the rope being too tight, but not in his usual facile manner).
Hopefully Gary will post some pictures...
We'll be working this width for a bit, and maybe test ourselves on Ahab in the not too distant future...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:56am PT
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Ahab flare is pretty dramatic. I had a 6 friend in the back. It's gotta be something like 6" at arms reach inside to 12-14" at the lip. Probably a 9-10" inside to 14" outside flare would be a good simulator.
A good look at Texplorer in there:
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:16am PT
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Left side in seemed easier, tonight, or maybe it was the beers?
ps not "shut" just slowed.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:18am PT
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Well which hand was the beer in?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:22am PT
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Hmm, may have to take better notes next time!
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jan 31, 2008 - 11:13am PT
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The flare on the plywood paradigm might not be as pronounced as the real thing, but I'm not Ed. Ed actually measured Ahab.
All I know was it was freakin hard. I have several new pains in my palms, knees and elbows this morning. And I didn't make it all the way up.
I'll give it an 8 on the difficulto-meter.
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:06pm PT
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OK Steve 5.8 it is!
Here are some photos:
Jaybro the “Wizard of Wide” giving a lesson
Spyork taking his turn
Tryin to work a foot stack
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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Man, that guy has some big boats!
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:48pm PT
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I was really anxious to see the photos. Cool machine!
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Gah. I just couldn't make myself do the drive.
Brother Jim assured me it was too cold for enjoyment.
There's always next time.
sm
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
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Sure would like some info on the construction of that beast.
Prod.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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that is one of the funniest contraptions I have ever seen. You guys are either way intoxicated or just plain sick. Hats off to you, I really can't stop chuckling.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
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scuffy, its a valid problem. You will not be able to resist the temptation for long.
edit: Marty, I usually find that I climb it better after I crack a beer. Perhaps I have a problem...
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
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Is it just me, or is part of the upper section of Midterm a similar size?
Yet to have the pleasure of Ahab.
Way to go lads! Wish I was closer than 1200 miles.
cheers,
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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Well, the upper part of Midterm goes from 3 inches to 3 feet,
so yes, it's kinda like that.
It's the transition that makes Midterm tough.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:21pm PT
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Is there any progress report from Rhodo Router?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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With a little imagination it appears that Mr York is fighting the trashcompactor in Star wars.
Scuffy, official Saab Temp was 34º when I left last night.
There is a little midterm in all of them.
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
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You guys ain't right in the head. I say this with deepest respect and admiration.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 31, 2008 - 03:03pm PT
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The christmas lights sure are a nice touch.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 31, 2008 - 03:05pm PT
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I am really wondering what there wives think!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2008 - 03:19pm PT
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Peggy, Gary's wife who gets to hear what is going on came out last night and said, "I hear a whole lotta moaning out here!" spyork has the best vocalizations...
Peggy has also called us the "offwidth halfwits" I respect here characterization...
...as for my wife Debbie, she just shook her head at Gary's holiday party when we were out there taking a lap... but she also isn't very sympathetic when I come home complaining about shoulders, knees and the like.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 31, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
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I believe that there is space and materiel at TRIUMF in Vancouver to build a very fine OW machine. As Ed may be making more trips here, perhaps he and I can work something out, and get in some training. There are a few nice OWs at Squamish, too, and it should not be necessary to drive 5.10OW all the way here just to attempt them.
TRIUMF = Tri University Meson Facility, which does research and makes medical isotopes. Ed and I will simply say that we're large, slow-moving mesons, and the our OW is a special sort of ultra low speed collider. No one has ever actually seen a meson, so they can't prove it's not true.
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 31, 2008 - 06:12pm PT
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Don't forget the gluons!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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A climbing thread with minimal appeal, limited interest and almost no future... Offwidth!
Last night, the few, the proud, the serene converged on the Soquel version of the crack. Both scuffy and Steve McCabe did four laps.. astounding! I managed a couple of partial ascents, but the point wasn't to shine as these stalwarts did, but rather just to see what kind of body I have. The determination: good to go to the next level. My back problems are resolving and I'm going to save what I have for the ultimate blowout next week in some location with a bunch of other wide aficionados.... a gathering of the tribe such as it is, for a glorious time.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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We'll be fine Ed... I HAVE PILLS!!!!!!1111666
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I'm wearin' my WIDE t-shirt today!!!!
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scuffy b
climber
4 to 8
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My back feels better after the session than it did before.
I think I only did 3, though, notwithstanding the imperfect
appearance of my elbow this morning.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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You guys climb it with Pride!
Wish I coulda, woulda been there!
However, we got quite the thing, simmering for that coming event. My inversion cuffs are getting a stern workout in anticipation.
Is there a season that starts with, 'He is risen' and ends @ Burningman?
at this point I take my motto from the words of the prophet, Jim Carroll;
"It ain't hip to sink that Low,
Unless,
you're gonna pull a resurrection!"
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Edit;
Girlie kneepads, from Boulder, ordered; it is, SO, on!
Good thing it looks like we have a ropegun or two!
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scuffy b
climber
4 to 8
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I have all kinda custom rope lengths now, too!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yo!- the gals in Colorado go nuts for guy's who "go wide." Y'all should plan a road trip.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Ahab with a 6 inch cam! why in the early 70's we.......
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2009 - 05:40pm PT
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donini... tell us a story about [url="http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/climbing/RCiY/page_25.pdf"]Basketcase[/url]
...this is a "holy grail" climb for the Widers...
[ed's a dofus edit] yes scuffy_b... he did
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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with waders...
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scuffy b
climber
4 to 8
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Ed, I think he already did that, in the big monster thread.
TM said it was hands and fingers, they had knifeblades...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Jaybro: Training is not fair. You all are a buncha cheaters.
BAWC = Bay Area Wide CHEATERS.
I don't have any inversion boots (not that I didn't scout E-bay, but $70 is more than I wanna pay, I need like a $25 pair). So at least I have an excuse to fail ("flat not good enough" having been exhausted as an excuse by now.)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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training is aid... unless you count back spasms as Isometrics. If that's the case, I should be in killer shape!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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If you train, it's never on-sight! may have to give my class a quiz and go out for something.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Here's one for ya;...hasn't been climbed either....yet......and you can go climb it one Wednesday;.....(Hope I haven't gotten to it on Tuesday.....)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Apr 21, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
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5.14 Guy meets Ahab:
http://www.patagonia.com/usa/patagonia.go?assetid=40838
Ahab, Yosemite
by Nicolas Favresse
Spring 2009 - Classic Climbs
The weight of the obstacle ahead of me was almost unbearable. Wide and open, the crack was about to throw itself down on top of me. I shook a few minutes at the last resting position, reminding myself what brought me here: On expedition in Patagonia I was once told, “No Euro can onsight Ahab.” Considering its relatively low grade (5.10b), this claim struck me with curiosity and I was sparked to explore the challenge. Later, what I read in the guidebook fueled me more: “Ahab is a tough offwidth/flare ... Ninetynine out of a hundred 5.13 gym climbers will be completely shut down by this climb.”
I took a last breath then charged. After 15 minutes of desperately squeezing myself up the hold-free smooth open walls of Ahab, I had the impression of good progress. Suddenly, I slipped only a few inches and realized all my gain was lost. I tested a few different positions, but all of them felt hopeless. As I groveled back up, I was tempted to give up. The only thing that fueled my determination was my progress, measured by the minuscule crystals in the granite that scraped at my bare knees and elbows. The intense effort put me into a kind of a trance.
Every inch was a battle. Early in the climb I was pacing myself, now I was just giving it everything I had. After an hour of fighting, the sight of the anchor brought me out of my trance. I had never been in the red zone for so long. I clipped myself in, high from the adrenaline, and looked up. All I could see was the infinite ocean of perfect granite of El Capitan. In comparison, Ahab below me looked so insignificant. A few minutes later, my stomach rolled over emptying all there was left in me. Ahab cleansed me. It reminded me that each rock is unique and so is its challenge.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Apr 21, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Hey, Guy's
DR wrote me about The Wide Machine said it was so hard he just KBed and drank beer! (is this the one?)
Wow, it does look pretty hard I like the Xmas lights, nice touch.
Bruce
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 21, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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Prarie dog village, we missed you in Josh last week, how's things?
We ran into, both, the Colonel, and Larry Scrithfield, on the same day. Did
you know Larry, biitd?
Extended Shanti interaction, as well, you shoulda been there!
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scuffy b
climber
Frigate Matilda
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Apr 21, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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Hey dogtown, I'd say Yeah, this is the one.
But...what's KBed?
I know he drank beer.
Then we talked about beardnetting trout in the Hinterlands,
and I got some really bad hiccups.
How's the weather?
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Apr 21, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
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Yeah, Scuff
KB= kick back
DR was funny I LOL.
The weather is great! I was at the crag today lots of snow on the ground but melting fast!
Hey, Jaybro
Yeah, I wish I was out in josh last week it snow for three days out here. (shit)
No I don't know Larry.
I'm planning on heading up to the tower to see the Colonel soon though.
DR said he is going to make it out to Vedauwoo this year in August when you guy's come out.
That would be cool I like Doug.
Bruce.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 21, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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Hey dogtown,
DR has it right! That's what I do to. Flail a few times and then pop a beer and KB. I have actually made it to the top, but not often. Good conversation though!
Zander
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 21, 2009 - 11:20pm PT
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Say hi to that Colonel guy for us!
And i thought KB was *Kale Boy
seen here with The Colonel, in Riverside, last Wednesday KB-ing.
* Mike Friedrichs.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Apr 21, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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I will Guy's
I'm going to be climbing fulltime after May 11 so I'll be seeing him a bunch. (I hope he's OK with that.) I guess I'm just a lucky Dog eh?
Bah ha ha ha .
Bruce
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:31am PT
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The more wyde that comes, the more it gives
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 17, 2014 - 01:07am PT
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For those of you who have climbed the narrows simulator at Wide/Wyde Wednesdays AND climbed the Steck Salathe: did the simulator help?
I'm guessing yes, but I've done neither.
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