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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
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Roger,
did Phil also do things like constructing human figures out of
cobbles? Like stick figures on the ground?
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
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Ha… great read and funny, thanks!
Roger, you should get that thing framed fast.
Cheers,
Mike Graham
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
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Hey Scuffy,
I don't think that Phil made any other art except cutting stone during that time. The block he had that summer was big--not as big as Sheridan imagined it--and he was very hesitant to let anyone 'help,' lest they crack it.
Hi Mike,
I have two Sheridan cartoons--the other one is a play on Lloyd Price's penchant for bragging and trout fishing. Both were whipped out as jokes. Most of us talked, Sheridan drew. Unfortunately, they are drawn with markers on cheap newsprint and the acid is discoloring them and they are falling apart. I am working with the Cleveland Museum to have them repaired as best as they can be and mounted for long-term conservation, then I will send them to Ken Yager.
Sometimes I will be in the middle of a hard discussion with my colleagues at work and it will get to a point where they all look to me and ask what I want.
Every once in awhile I can say sotto voice: "All I want is a new life and day without fear."
It always gets a laugh and it secretly reminds me of all the great times we used to have, none of which my colleagues know much about. Takes me right back.
Best, Roger
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jan 30, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
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I hear you Roger.
That was a fun day we had up on Phantom Pinnacle, you, me and Bridwell
Great to still be in touch, even if its only on the internet
Mike
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Carolyn C
Trad climber
the long, long trailer
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Jan 30, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
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Ferretlegger-great story and great writing! Hope you will share more of your stories here.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jan 30, 2008 - 08:35pm PT
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I find it interesting that you were using pirate patois back in 1974.This was well before Pirates of the Caribean, (the movies, but maybe even the ride) and predates by decades recent fashions for all things pirate-related. What inspired you, Roger, to be such a trend setter?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 30, 2008 - 10:39pm PT
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Well you know what it's like, Rick (and Mike, Carolyn, Steve, Jeff, Werner, Ed, John, Ryan, Anders, Clint, Crackco, and certainly Michael) .
You are just hanging in the Valley, getting up stuff, falling in and out of love, feeling all that natural high (okay, maybe some was enhanced), and the future just seems so crystalline clear.
Anyway, that's how I remember it.
Buzz
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 30, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
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First rate Valley epic man!
Regarding Graham's motivation to alter the Salathe when he did, a Nov/Dec 1978 Mountain 64 interview by Audrey Salkeld contained the following commenmt.
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Ferretlegger
Trad climber
san Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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Clint and Steve,
Thanks for posting the info on Mike Graham's bolt removal. We must have hit that pitch very soon after the free ascent. I am actually glad to revisit the issue, especially with the passage of many years. At the time we were appalled and very upset at what we felt was astounding, unchecked arrogance. We felt that (at that time) the Salathe was a big wall aid climb and trying to free climb that pitch in RDs with a big wall rack and many pitches to go before we could call it a day was just WRONG! It has kind of bothered me ever since. HOWEVER!!!! If Mike Graham reads this, for what it is worth, I now view it as one of the many evolutionary steps which led climbing from the classical era of aid walls to Lynn Hill's Nose free in a day, and Caldwell, Rodden, Huber, and compatriots breaking all concepts of what the human body can do. Certainly this journey had many controversial moments, and I am sure all of us have done things in our lives we might have done differently if we had the benefit of seeing those actions filtered by many years of history. So after all these years I forgive Mike for his actions (as if he needed it!). It did, after all, provide an hour or two of memorable terror and angst as I wandered desperately from tiny hold to tiny hold across the face, often more sideways than up (I'm a horrible face climber!). If I could have filmed that episode it would have been a popular UTube video, and not because it was pretty! As I recall, the penultimate move was a HUGE pendulum/tension traverse from a bolt I had been forced to place waaaay off to the right of the original route, a LONG way above the last bit of real protection in the "A4" crack. Anyway, that was probably the closest John and I ever came to being part of a real Valley controversy if you don't count being drafted as a deputy marshal during the Stoneman Meadows riot (1970?).
I had gone to the visitor center after falling over a bench at the ChurchBowl in the dark as my partner and I were leaving after doing the "first ascent" of Church Bowl Tree. I think Tom Rohr had been up the crack first, though. Anyway, I was covered in blood from a split face, and went into the bathroom to clean up. While in there, a BIG, MEAN looking Sheriff came in holding a frail looking hippie with long hair, beads, the whole nine yards, stoned out of his head.An obvious menace and danger to society! I asked what was going on, and the Sheriff told us that the hippies were rioting and the fate of Western Civilization was hanging in the balance. I was a little skeptical, but before I knew it we were deputized as assistant marshalls, and were eating donuts and drinking coffee with a bunch of massive redneck cops from Fresno, one of whom confided to me that his greatest desire was to "shoot a hippie" with this horrible looking weapon he was toting. It was the sort of gun that Rambo would have loved. After about 2 dozen donuts and gallons of coffee, we ended up sleeping in the back of a pickup parked in the front of the Visitor center, and never did get to torture anyone.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:15am PT
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Well, that's two (TWO!) fantastic stories from ferretlegger in his first thread. Salathe stories followed by Stoneman shenanigans. Amazing. I wonder what stories he has for us next?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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The most hilarious part of the Graham story is Royal demanding that Mike surrender his hammer at the end of it all in punishment! Check out the Welcome to Kevin Worral thread for more on that topic.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:38pm PT
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Michael its good to hear a first hand account and your true feelings at the time regarding the reduced bolt count. Sounds like the experience was even more memorable, being still fresh in the mind after 30 years.
Over time my ideas haven’t changed much but I think twice about something that could have such an impact. Today I certainly embrace and applaud the thoughtful advance in the human ability.
Good to have you on board, I can’t wait to hear more stories.
Mike
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
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What! You two kissed and made up? In two posts?
Kum Ba Yah, mateys. Kum Ba Yah
Argh. I feel luck coming on.
No WOS runner-up awards for you!
Buzz
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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It must have been that enhanced, natural high that made you so jolly, Roger.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I tried to gently jog RR's memory about the Salathe incident but he claimed to not remember a lot that far back. I didn't pry too hard despite my keen interest in the episode. LOL
Bolts on the Salathe Thread coming right up!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Dec 22, 2009 - 10:53am PT
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In my recent efforts to undersatand the different climbing generations putting up first ascents in the Valley, I was reminded who first said, "Arggh mateys, the luckly ones will be thems that die:" Russ McClean.
Russ climbed in the middle 60s-early 70s in the Valley, putting up some routes wtih Ken Boche and Dennis Hennek.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 22, 2009 - 11:31am PT
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Awesome story!
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Dec 22, 2009 - 11:59am PT
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Yes, I agree. Great story and a fun read.
I missed this interesting thread the first time around.
What an amazing effort you guys put into climbing that wall!
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