'TASTE THE PAINE' grade VII solo F.A. in Patagonia

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DaveT.

Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2008 - 07:13am PT
wow! so much has happened for me in the last two months. i have fufilled my climbing dream of over six years a few days ago. standing on the top of cerro escudo in the torres del paine region of southern patagonia was anything but sane. i opened a 1,200 meter (4,000ft) overhanging big wall route in some of the worst weather i have ever experienced! i was on the wall for a total of 34 continous days, saying screw fixed ropes and siege style climbing, and went for it in pure alpine style continously moving the camp up as i went. showing up with my one haul line and two 70m lead lines might have been a bit crazy, but thats my way. the how is as important as the what. the climb was very difficult on all aspects, gear got thrashed, ropes got cut, rocks came through the ledge, whippers were logged, screamers blown, and of course the weather, oh the weather! i got absolutly pummeled by the patagonian storms!

I have to give a big thanks to all of the companies and organizations that helped out on this one. the climb was supported by a Lyman Spitzer grant from the AAC and Cascade Designs. As well, much help was given to me by Patagonia clothing, Black Diamond, Bluewater Ropes, Yates, and Erratic Rock expeditions of Puerto Natales. Again, big thanks to all of those who helped make my dream a reality.

there is so much i want to talk about, but first i need to fill my stomach with real food, eat lots of ice cream, and cut this hair! i will be back to fill in a few details.
Strider

Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
Jan 29, 2008 - 07:34am PT
Amazing accomplishment! Well done and congratulations on the ascent!

-n
Crimpergirl

Social climber
St. Looney
Jan 29, 2008 - 08:39am PT
Major congrats. Can't wait to hear the details (and don't forget to fill us in on the real food you are eating - vanilla or chocolate?)
Pierre

Big Wall climber
Sweden
Jan 29, 2008 - 09:21am PT
Outstanding Effort!

I'm blown away...


peace
survival

Big Wall climber
arlington, va
Jan 29, 2008 - 09:43am PT
Well done man! Did you have to haul your bag and your sack separately? You have to go in for gonad reduction surgery now.
Well done.
Where's the pix duuude?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 29, 2008 - 09:56am PT
He told me a few months ago he would climb the wall. And he did.

Congrats, Dave! Way to go, you crazy bastard!

Try not to suffer from too much "dietary indiscretion" and tell us more!
TimN

Trad climber
St. Charles, MO
Jan 29, 2008 - 10:06am PT
That is truly freaking awesome! I'm looking forward to more details.
SteveW

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jan 29, 2008 - 10:08am PT
Congratulations, Dave.
I hope you'll post some pix soon!
Mike.

climber
Jan 29, 2008 - 10:18am PT
Crazy? Hmm, doubt it.

Calculated, driven, accomplished, persistent, systematic, patient--yessir. Nice work, Dave. Way to push it!
piquaclimber

Trad climber
Durango
Jan 29, 2008 - 10:24am PT
Superb effort!!!

anxiously looking forward to the full report,
Brad
MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Jan 29, 2008 - 10:59am PT
Way to go Dave!
Been reading about the progress here and there, congratulations on a stupendous effort!!

Awaiting the full TR, I am sure it will be otherworldly.

Erik
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 29, 2008 - 11:13am PT
Yeah, way to go Dave!

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Jan 29, 2008 - 11:26am PT
Dear David,

Hi, I just heard about your big rock climbing trip. Sounds really cool! I'm nineteen and blonde and really want to learn how to rock climb. Maybe you can show me around when I come to Yosemite Park this summer?

xoxo

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jan 29, 2008 - 11:30am PT
Damn impressive, can't wait for the details and pics.
MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Jan 29, 2008 - 11:34am PT
Funny, Yo.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jan 29, 2008 - 11:43am PT
Wow, amazing story, looking forward to the TR and pics.

Enjoy your extra helpings of ice creame!

Well done Dave.

Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Jan 29, 2008 - 11:52am PT
Badass, Dave!

"rocks came through the ledge,"

My friend who posts as Ben Rumsen on here has a story for you, for sure!
BadInfluence

Mountain climber
Dak side
Jan 29, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
kick ass!
Nohea

Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
Jan 29, 2008 - 12:03pm PT
Bravo Dave! What a hell of an effort Wow what a climb.

Aloha,
wil
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Jan 29, 2008 - 12:48pm PT
Great Job Dave... only you have the experience and patience to do such a route... all those "obscure" routes you did on the Cap have proven to be great preparation for this climb... you are to be congratulated for your vision and determination not to mention your climbing skills... come back safe Dave...
Messages 1 - 20 of total 184 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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