TR - Tangerine Trip, El Cap - 12/07


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David Nelson

San Francisco
Dec 31, 2007 - 06:59pm PT
Great TR, nice to read while I was warm!

Now that you have warmed up a bit, can you give us more detail about the technical aspects of the winter ascent?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2008 - 01:58pm PT
Nice alpine gusto guys!! And way to pull out that camera. Thanks for posting up.

Hoooo Man JB, I didn't know that you did many of those big tapping routes. I did the fifth ascent with Mason Frichette from Boulder just after Eric Weinstein and Glenn Randall in 1977.

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 1, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
We didn't have a camera...
mark miller

Social climber
Jan 1, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
Thanks for the inspirational TR SWeeeet and congrats.

Social climber
No Ut
Jan 1, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
Great job on the climb, and great TR. You guys are ready for Alaska or Baffin, now.

Dave Tapes

Trad climber
Silverado CA
Jan 1, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
Jeff, I seem to remember wearing mountain boots on the climb and taking a pair of crampons and a ice axe. We didn't have to use the ice gear but I recall leading some kind of 5.6 slabs in the pouring rain, in mountain boots! We topped out late in the day and spent a cold wet night on top. By the time we got down we were soaked to the bone.


ps Jeff when are we going rideing!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2008 - 09:55pm PT
Here's my old green Meyer's guide topo annotated by Eric Weinstein. The 'scarry' [sic] note written in wiggly letters next to the headwall pitch is my favorite notation. When I did that pitch, no placement on the entire headwall was capable of holding a hard fall. Things are a bit different these days.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 1, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
Thank you, Steve. In reply, here's a photo of Eric, taken by Dave Nicol in 1975 or 1976.

Edit: I'm fairly sure that Eric was first to free one of the pitches on the Trip, but don't know which one. An undercling or layback?

Sport climber
Jan 2, 2008 - 06:05pm PT

You effin' badass. Let me buy you a celabratory beer next Tuesday, when the beer is cheap...


Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 9, 2008 - 01:49am PT
Wow, this thread refuses to die for how many posts it has. So, if jb did the third in 197? and Steve Grossman did the fifth in 1977, I wonder where my ascent fell in the numbers? My buds and I did it in Feb. of 82 or 83. I can't quite remember. Does anyone even keep track past five ascents and does anyone even care. Being a lesser climber that doesn't get out much and is reliving any past glory, however insignificant, I'm somewhat curious. Flail away boys, My ego can take it.
Messages 41 - 50 of total 50 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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