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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Tarbuster, you are standing front of Bridalveil. Anymore one does not linger too long in that stop. On multiple occasions I have seen avalanche debris piled 10 feet high. One year a couple of climbers were sleeping in their truck when it all came down. They escaped through the hatch in the camper top. The truck was not seen again until spring. That same avalanche took out part of the tram station. and the bridge. Several others have done in the other buildings.
At this point when the avalanche danger is up it is best o avoid all of the Provo climbs with the exception of Stairway.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2008 - 11:17am PT
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Remember Doug Hall and don't be indulgent for sure!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Remember Doug Hall and don't be indulgent for sure!
I remember that day with clarity. What, 18" of powder the day/night prior, and raining that morning? Ugh.
I always worry when the weather and avy conditions are spooky, and Outdoor Retailer is in town...
Doug was a heckuva nice guy. Heavy sigh...
Watch yer topknots.
-Brian in SLC
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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That wet snow had enough force to snap 1" tubular webbing if I remember correctly. The only such failure that I can recall in 37 years of climbing!
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Wasn't that the avalanche that crossed the highway? Or was that the year before? Something like 10-20 feet of snow across the whole highway.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2008 - 12:34pm PT
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So who was responsible for discovering and developing Santequin Canyon early on?
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jimknight
climber
Orem
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Jan 14, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
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In the late 70's Mark Ward and partner, myself and Randy Lippincott climbed Squash Head before it had a name, or the canyon was known to have more ice and subsequently developed. We didn't name anything, and I'm not sure there were any photos taken. I have none. Kudos to those followed and fleshed-out a great area.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2008 - 10:48am PT
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Lots of good ice tucked away in that place! Squas Head is big fun for sure!
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Jan 15, 2008 - 10:59am PT
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Does anyone know the conditions this season?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Report Bump.
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Scrunch
Trad climber
Provo, Ut
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Jan 22, 2008 - 01:18am PT
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Fat beyond imagining... even shower tower is in (or mostly in) Provo is fat, Rock canyon is fat, Santaquin is fat... it's kinda ridiculous, really. Avi danger not so stable today... Darren almost bit it trying to put up an FA in rock canyon.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2008 - 12:39am PT
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Nice and Fat! Gotta love that report.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2008 - 11:46am PT
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Do any of you old guys remember when the discussion about rating ice routes began? In the old days, a description of the most difficult section was the norm and comparative ratings weren't used.
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jimknight
climber
Orem
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Hi Steve,
I'd credit Jeff Lowe with the rating system, per his book "The Ice Experience" (1979)
pgs 120-122. That's about when things started to make sense. Ask Jeff if he had any earlier discussions relative to ice grades.
best,
Jim
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2008 - 03:47pm PT
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The reason that I asked is to determine how much dialog went on before Jeff codified the system. Perhaps Jello can chime in on that aspect of the ratings evolution.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2008 - 11:44am PT
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Here is a tidbit for you old timers. From MT 54 March/April 1977, this is a Dave Alcock shot of the great Bill March on the FA of Cascade on Stag Rocks in the Cairngorms.
I have a vague recollection that this was the first route on the Isles that involved the use of Piolet Traction or modern germanic frontpointing. Pretty impressive with the gear du jour and no rope in sight! Recollections anyone?!?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
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Tis the season to be frosty and jumpy!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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There's a laddie who's sure, all that glitters is froze.
And he's climbing a Stairway to Heaven.....
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Dec 18, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
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What a "COOL" (pun intended) thread thank you Steve.
I remember the OP article clearly from when it originally appeared. I might even still have that issue. I was getting very serious about ice climbing then and that article was a big stoke. I flashed back this time remembering being momentarily outraged that somebody had the audacity to name another besides the famous Telluride climb "Bridal Veil". Until I read WHO named it. My bad, all's cool.
Joe Brown brain buckets, Whillians "nut buster" harnesses, heavy klunky boots, Super Gators (still have a green and orange pair with the old Chouinard label) 1 long axe, 1 alpine hammer, Salewa or Chouinard cramps, Dachstein mittens and all manner of funky nearly functionless ice protection.
What huge strides were made for us mere mortals when the ice gods brought us Terrodactyls, Hummingbirds, Big Birds, Recurved picks, Footfangs (with fast bindings instead of finger freezing Neoprene lacing) Snargs and Chouinard tubular
screws.
Thank you for eliciting many great memories as well as a few random epic nightmares.
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jimknight
Trad climber
Orem, Utah
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Dec 31, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Nice flashback Steve. i dig the matching ski gloves Bill is wearing. Style!
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