Heaven (the route)

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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic
AllezAllez510

Trad climber
PDX, OR
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 6, 2007 - 12:31am PT
How many people have done this route? I think if I ever did this thing I would walk into the ocean and be done with it. How do you top something like that?

Wow, just realized there are more than a jillion routes named 'heaven'. I'm talking about the 12d valley route on top of the apron.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 6, 2007 - 12:55am PT
Potter soloed it

http://video.aol.com/video-detail/dean-potter-free-solos-40-foot-overhanging-crack-heaven-512d13a-yosemite/2839453761

I eyeballed it a few times from Galactic Hitchhiker. Kinda like Separate Reality, it's a short overhanging crag like route but it's situated high above the valley floor that you approach from above

peace

Karl
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Feb 12, 2014 - 06:56pm PT
bump!

I bumped this because I want to find directions to it, not that I can climb it free but sure would be cool to check it out on a rest day and perhaps aid it... any info on how to find it... I assume you drop in from top of apron...
this is the climb I am talking about
this is the climb I am talking about
Credit: whitemeat

PS: I searched pretty good before posting.

enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
Feb 12, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
How many people have done this route?

54 people to my knowledge
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Feb 12, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 12, 2014 - 08:08pm PT
I think Honnold flashed it sans rope with a beta spraydown.


Cool looking route, that potter vid is wild!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
Feb 12, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
Mickey let's go find it! I hiked around a little bit last time I was up there, and didn't see it.
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Feb 12, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
briham:

hell ya!!!! perhaps no one should even post beta for approach so we can have a more hard man adventure :)!!!!!!!!!

on the other hand... we aint no hard man and would appriciate all the beta possible
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 12, 2014 - 11:30pm PT
If you number the purple dots, starting with the highest one,
I believe Heaven is above dot 5, and about level with dots 2-3.
I haven't actually been to that spot, but the photo matches up pretty well with the still photos and video.
Check with Mikey, Karl, etc. to be sure.
Or go for an adventure with this photo assist.

Purple dots are the routes Goodrich Pinnacle Right Side, Goodrich to Oasis, Sacherer-Cochrane Direct, and Galactic Hitchhiker.
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Feb 12, 2014 - 11:36pm PT
wow, thanks clint. that picture is all we needed!!! just fallow the edge till it gets sketchy then rap!!!!! this will be rad briham!!!!!!!!!!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 13, 2014 - 12:11am PT
P.S. Mickey,
There are other 5.12 roofs which are a lot easier to access than that long drive up to Glacier Point:
 Separate Reality
 Bishop's Balcony (undercling version)
 Free Clinic (5.11b, 25' roof crack)
 Overdrive (5.11)
 A Dog's Woof
 Rostrum Roof
 Elephant's Eliminate
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 13, 2014 - 12:21am PT
I spied what is now Heaven with binos from the Vernal Falls Trail. I was hiking up to belay Kauk on Magic Line. I also saw a far more spectacular looking splitter cleaving a 20 to 30 ft roof in the center of a 200 ft arch.

I was serious about shooting climbing photos, was doing a little writing, and had an idea to do a Valley Rim climbing story with photos. I was visualizing a shot out the roof wit HD, Tenaya Canyon, and Little Yosemite for background.

Went for a hike up there with Chappy to check things out. Didn't bring a rope, but saw some cool stuff and got oriented as to how to descend to the big arch. On our way back up to the car, I talked Chappy into walking over to the other crack I had seen. As soon as I saw it I knew it was a slam dunk cover shot or poster shot.

Things didn't work out so well for me though. A few weeks later, the entire arch with the splitter collapsed and decimated Happy Isles - I never got a close look at it. Before I could return to shoot what's now Heaven, Mark scooped me and took Ron over there for a photo shoot.


It's a spectacular route and minutes from the car.

A photographer's dream...
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Feb 13, 2014 - 12:37am PT
I just walked down like any tourist, right to the lip.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 13, 2014 - 12:49am PT
It ain't much harder to traverse to the base and put your hands in it.

A little airier though...
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
Feb 13, 2014 - 02:17am PT
Let's do it!


When the snow melts haha

Plus everything on Clint's list!!!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 13, 2014 - 06:54pm PT

Heaven, Happy home above,
Heaven, Land of peace and love,
How it makes me feel so all alone
Heaven, eternal,
Heaven, supernal,
I'm so glad it's me. . .


A gud old bluegrass song!!!
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Nov 18, 2014 - 07:49pm PT
What is "Free Clinic 11b 25' roof crack"? is it as good as it sounds?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 18, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
What is "Free Clinic 11b 25' roof crack"?
It's a climb at the Apathy Buttress - in Tenaya Canyon a little bit upstream from Mirror Lake.
It's in the 1994 Reid guidebook, and in 1987 Meyers and Reid.

Free Clinic does involve several approach pitches, so it would be
one on that list which is harder to approach than Heaven.

I haven't tried it, but given the roof length and somewhat moderate rating, it could be fun to check out.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Nov 18, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
Heavens to Betsy Pinnacle!

I've just realized how far above Heaven is in comparison to Lucifer's Ledge.

Cosmic, weird, wild stuff.

Clint, that's a remarkable photo!
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