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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
Vincent Bert
Intermediate climber
Solana Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2002 - 01:58pm PT
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Just looking for any info on the classic south face on Charlotte Dome, thanx
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BR
Novice climber
The LBC
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Jul 23, 2002 - 05:12pm PT
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All I can tell you from personal knowledge is: nasty approach, beautiful rock, tough route-finding.
The route's in Moynier's book, in the 50 classics book, I assume that it's in Croft's new book, and I expect that it may well be in Chris Mac's supertopo pack that's supposed to come out sometime this summer. I haven't climbed it, though, so I can't vouch for how helpful any of those sources are.
Oh, and check out http://www.naclassics.com/climbs/charlott/beta.htm
A little beta, a couple of TRs (Brutus's is humbling but very entertaining), some pics.
br
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chris
Novice climber
sf bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2002 - 08:01pm PT
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the approach from Bubb's Creek is tempting if you are on the west side. I did it, but it is very important to pick the right way to the base. We didn't and it cost us much time and effort. That said, if I recall correctly, you end up right at the base of the climb.
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Vincent
Novice climber
Solana Beach, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2002 - 01:43am PT
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Actually, I am approaching from the east which I expect will be steep until Kearsarge Pass. Planning a full day plus for the 10 mile journey. I guess I was actually wanting gear info. Big Rack? Small rack? In between, big pro, whatever. Being mostly a big wall aid climber, I feel comfortable with a huge pig rack, but if i dont have to carry it 10 miles, I dont want to. I have have heard this is one of the best climbs in the high Sierra so I have to do it. Oh yeah, I am soloing it, free of course, roped solo with an old rock exotica soloist device, and yes i do plan to bivy but with very light gear that fits in a day pack. i am just trying to strip down to all but the essentials as i find that my pack is getting pretty pigish for free climbing. thanx again for any info, Vince
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lambone
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2002 - 02:41am PT
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Vince,
You plan to rope solo it free, with a pin rack?? Wow, old school!
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Vincent
Novice climber
Solana Beach
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2002 - 10:17am PT
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No, no pins, all clean gear of course. Didnt mean to say pin rack, thought I typed pig, as in big heavy pig full of gear. I like to take everything when I solo aid, but free i waant to keep it down to the necessities. I dont want to take any heavy wide crack pro if I dont need it, sorry for the confusion.
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lambone
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2002 - 04:40pm PT
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wait, now it says pig rack...i must have been seeing things. oh well, just hopin there were still some Fred Beckey/warren Harding type hardmen out there.
Anyway, good luck, looks like a great climb!
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DEE
Advanced climber
Orange Cty
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2002 - 05:26pm PT
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Hey, All you need is a "standard rack" of nuts and cams, nothing bigger than a #3 Camelot. Some people comment on the route finding but, it is only because the route does not have an obvious line. Get a photo of the face and GO!Most people encounter some run-outs on 5.7-5.9.
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DEE
Advanced climber
Orange Cty
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2002 - 05:26pm PT
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Hey, All you need is a "standard rack" of nuts and cams, nothing bigger than a #3 Camelot. Some people comment on the route finding but, it is only because the route does not have an obvious line. Get a photo of the face and GO!Most people encounter some run-outs on 5.7-5.9.
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Vincent
Novice climber
Solana Beach
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2002 - 04:18am PT
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Thanx Dee. I will go VERY light. I hate shivering at bivys, but if i cant finish it solo in a day, i will just suffer. However, remember the old addage, "if you bring bivy gear, you will bivy" but, thats OK with me.
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Adrian
Advanced climber
Truckee
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2002 - 07:07pm PT
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The climb is really fun, and except for one pitch it is easy, about half of the pitches are no more than class 4/5.2 or so. You will mostly find yourself just free soloing on great secure holds. A very light rack is plenty sufficient, one each wire from small (not micro) to about 3/4 inch size, a couple of hexes for anchors and good trad vibes, one each cam to about 2 inch, tiny TCUs not needed. Take extra shoulder length slings. Tricams (the passive ones) are extremely good for this type of Sierra rock, definitely take the pink (#0.5) and red ones (#1), even 2 pink ones. The only tricky route finding is on the wandery face pitch (max 5.7 if you follow the easiest line up, wander right, then up some more). There is a great tiny little camp spot right next to the drainage (walk a ways up away from the drainageway for any nasty business...), directly below the face.
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Vincent
Novice climber
SoCal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2002 - 12:18pm PT
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Just finished the south face on Charlotte Dome, great climb, great setting, a bit run out, nebulous route finding. I think the Charlottels Web route would be a better choice, easier routefinding, better pro, and only a bit more difficult. One thing, the pic of the south face route in "High Sierra, peaks, passes, and trails" is wrong. It shows the start of the climb about 200 ft. to the left of where it actually is. If you follow the picture, the first 3 pitches are VERY runout 5.6 to 5.7 not 4th class.
Also, I probably shouldnt be telling this but heres some approach beta that will save about 3 hours of bushwacking. Follow the trail past charlotte lake. The trail becomes faint but is well marked with cairns, and also is depicted on the quad topo. follow the cairns along the south facing slope, then all the way down into the east/west drainage that originates from the lake. Once the cairns lead you along the bottom of the drainage, follow it all the way to the north/south running drainage that comes down on the east side of the dome. When you reach this drainage, cross it and then you want to head directly uphill (there are some cairns) until you are even with low angle slabs of the dome. To get to the climb, go across the slabs toward a stand of trees you will see on the far side of the slabs, and from there you will see the start of the route. The slab crossing looks rather daunting but is only a class 2 walk in sections and i dont think it would even be possible to fall down them. This approach requires a little routefinding but has the benefit of minimum bushwhacking. Do not approach the start of the climb directly from the drainage below, if you do it will be a very steep bushwhack. I learned this the hard way and was trashed by the time I got to the base of the climb. once on the route, plan a full day for the climb unless you are moving pretty fast. I would rate the climb a Grade IV rather than III. Hope this Beta helps out without spoiling the adventure.
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