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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Mike Waugh, hand-drilling a quarter-inch hole on the FA of Dark Ages, West Farthing Wall, Tuolumne, 9/2012.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Sep 30, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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Drilling quarter inchers in Tuolumne in 2012? I hope that bolt is now 3/8".
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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Nice picture of Mike Waugh!
Here's a video about how to equip a route.
Nice hammer dude.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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All that yappin in that video just to place a bolt. ^^^^^^
Cripes !!!!!!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
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stance bolting
Whatareyoudinosaurs?
[ Todd, that pic above looks like you're practicing up for a run at Karma... ]
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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^^"rapbolting".com what a loser
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Just what that rock always needed - a bolt or two four feet off the ground so we could make a video for groundbolting.com...
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
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I knew you guys would love that video!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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There is 11c friction climb just to the left of serenity crack. I wonder how the hell did FAtionists drilled from stances. No clue!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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groundbolting!
safety first!
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bob
climber
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Nov 27, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Vitaliy, when I've done some FA's of 11+ no holds I just start to drill, drop drill try to stay on, pick up drill, tap two or three times then whip. I then repeat the process until the drill bit is in far enough and I think I'm about to whip and it holds. (daisy w biner around bit) Its a bit scary and I only do this if I can take the fall. Otherwise I just have to believe and keep believing.
Bob Jensen
edit: unless I can get a hook!!
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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I figure a hook is a stance....
Note: The special K. Solem hook... it will hold where NOTHING else will.
This is a 12C....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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That's the spirit Bob!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Nov 27, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
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A hook is totally a legit stance in my book. I'd rather drill from a shitty stance than from a suspect hook any day. At least that way you'll know when you're about to take the ride.
Vitaliy;
Creativity is the key, I drilled a bolt hanging from my nut tool last weekend. It was a wildly flexing flake, but supported enough weight where I could milk a horrible stance enough to free my hands to drill. No way I could have done it without that hook. The bolt before that one was drilled where there was no real stance. Only a left and right facing flake about five feet apart where I found I could do the splits and use my lack of flexibility to free my hands.
Sometimes, like what Bob said, you gotta go with the tap,tap,tumble method. I've spent hours trying to get a drill bit deep enough to where I could hang from it.
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MisterE
climber
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Mar 10, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
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Bump!
Stance-drilled a sketchy 1/4" in soft rock with a questionable hanger and topped it all off with a weird tie-off...
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Mar 10, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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Way to put that old Leeper to good use.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 10, 2014 - 05:07pm PT
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like!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 10, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
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Pretty darn sketchy- if you ask me.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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since March?
Really?
No posts?
For fuk sake.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Here you go Munge......
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