DMT, I loved getting to that perfect stance! hahaha Then John took it way up and over with gear to put in that last one. Probably won't repeat that one. lol
So stoked, just did put in my first bolts on lead and did them from stances. There was a route missing the 2nd bolt and 3rd bolt, so it wasn't crazy bad ass, but still pretty legit.
I had to drill a new hole cuz that one still had part of the sleeve and the cone in it.
We even drill ground up, often from free stances, right here in France, the capital of rap bolting. We have no wilderness regulations regarding power drills, consequently power drills are used in almost all cases. And although hand drilling is rare now, it was certainly the way Piola put up a great number of his earlier routes.
Bolting the 2nd pitch (6b+) of A Bigger Bang, on the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan
A project on the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan
This is a major SE facing gneiss/granite cliff, close to Chamonix. It's about 350m, (8 > 11 pitches) at its highest point and has about 20 routes from 6a+ > 7b. Most are fully bolted though a couple are hard trad/mixed. The summit is at 2600m. Walk in - in approach shoes - no snow/glaciers etc. You might just see another couple of parties up there if you're unlucky.
The 350m SE Face of the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan
The first pitch (6a) of A Bigger Bang, on the Perrons.
Vitaliy, when I've done some FA's of 11+ no holds I just start to drill, drop drill try to stay on, pick up drill, tap two or three times then whip. I then repeat the process until the drill bit is in far enough and I think I'm about to whip and it holds. (daisy w biner around bit) Its a bit scary and I only do this if I can take the fall. Otherwise I just have to believe and keep believing.
Bob Jensen
edit: unless I can get a hook!!
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
Let us know!