Stance Drilling

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Messages 221 - 240 of total 246 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 1, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Aug 1, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
DMT, I loved getting to that perfect stance! hahaha Then John took it way up and over with gear to put in that last one. Probably won't repeat that one. lol




Love Todd's Dummy Dome goodness!



mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 2, 2012 - 07:47am PT
Somebody ain't in very good drilling shape!

GET some!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Aug 8, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
LOL, classic. Be sure to tell John that, cuz I was ready to drill like 5 more bolts.

:)
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Aug 18, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
So stoked, just did put in my first bolts on lead and did them from stances. There was a route missing the 2nd bolt and 3rd bolt, so it wasn't crazy bad ass, but still pretty legit.

I had to drill a new hole cuz that one still had part of the sleeve and the cone in it.
New Bolt
New Bolt
Credit: Tfish
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Aug 20, 2012 - 01:52am PT
We even drill ground up, often from free stances, right here in France, the capital of rap bolting. We have no wilderness regulations regarding power drills, consequently power drills are used in almost all cases. And although hand drilling is rare now, it was certainly the way Piola put up a great number of his earlier routes.

Bolting the 2nd pitch &#40;6b+&#41; of A Bigger Bang, on the Perrons.
Bolting the 2nd pitch (6b+) of A Bigger Bang, on the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan

A project on the Perrons.
A project on the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan

This is a major SE facing gneiss/granite cliff, close to Chamonix. It's about 350m, (8 > 11 pitches) at its highest point and has about 20 routes from 6a+ > 7b. Most are fully bolted though a couple are hard trad/mixed. The summit is at 2600m. Walk in - in approach shoes - no snow/glaciers etc. You might just see another couple of parties up there if you're unlucky.

The 350m SE Face of the Perrons.
The 350m SE Face of the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan

The first pitch &#40;6a&#41; of A Bigger Bang, on the Perrons.
The first pitch (6a) of A Bigger Bang, on the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan


Pitch 5 &#40;7a&#41; of A Bigger Bang, the Perrons.
Pitch 5 (7a) of A Bigger Bang, the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan

... and a view to die for:

The Droites &#40;L&#41; and the Verte from the Perrons.
The Droites (L) and the Verte from the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan

The Chardonnet from the Perrons.
The Chardonnet from the Perrons.
Credit: jaaan
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Sep 3, 2012 - 06:22am PT


Use a pin,....save your skin.......(use a chock...save the rock)...

T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Sep 3, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
bump
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2012 - 12:01pm PT



Mike Waugh, hand-drilling a quarter-inch hole on the FA of Dark Ages, West Farthing Wall, Tuolumne, 9/2012.

bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Sep 30, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
Drilling quarter inchers in Tuolumne in 2012? I hope that bolt is now 3/8".
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:12am PT
Nice picture of Mike Waugh!

Here's a video about how to equip a route.

Nice hammer dude.

WBraun

climber
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:19am PT
All that yappin in that video just to place a bolt. ^^^^^^

Cripes !!!!!!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:22am PT
stance bolting

Whatareyoudinosaurs?

[ Todd, that pic above looks like you're practicing up for a run at Karma... ]
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:23am PT
^^"rapbolting".com what a loser
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:26am PT
Just what that rock always needed - a bolt or two four feet off the ground so we could make a video for groundbolting.com...
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:34am PT
I knew you guys would love that video!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:41am PT
There is 11c friction climb just to the left of serenity crack. I wonder how the hell did FAtionists drilled from stances. No clue!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Nov 27, 2012 - 11:42am PT
groundbolting!

safety first!
bob

climber
Nov 27, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
Vitaliy, when I've done some FA's of 11+ no holds I just start to drill, drop drill try to stay on, pick up drill, tap two or three times then whip. I then repeat the process until the drill bit is in far enough and I think I'm about to whip and it holds. (daisy w biner around bit) Its a bit scary and I only do this if I can take the fall. Otherwise I just have to believe and keep believing.

Bob Jensen

edit: unless I can get a hook!!
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 27, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Hanging on the Tiny Hook and hammering like mad.
Hanging on the Tiny Hook and hammering like mad.
Credit: guyman

I figure a hook is a stance....

Note: The special K. Solem hook... it will hold where NOTHING else will.

This is a 12C....
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