Tribute to Gaston Rebuffat

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 87 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Nilepoc

Big Wall climber
Tx
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Neige et Roc, French climbing instructional book from 1959
Neige et Roc, French climbing instructional book from 1959
Credit: Nilepoc

The spine is exposed unfortunately.
The spine is exposed unfortunately.
Credit: Nilepoc

Title page
Title page
Credit: Nilepoc

He book is inscribed from Ann Bronson feb 5 1961
He book is inscribed from Ann Bronson feb 5 1961
Credit: Nilepoc

Old old school shoes.
Old old school shoes.
Credit: Nilepoc

How to aid
How to aid
Credit: Nilepoc

How to aid a roof
How to aid a roof
Credit: Nilepoc

So this fine book is looking for a new home. I figured someone here would be happy to care for it and maybe get the binding fixed. PM me first and it's yours. All I ask is that you pay postage. I am cleaning out the bookcase and want to find this gem a home. I imagine it isn't worth a whole lot due to the spine damage.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 10, 2013 - 02:42pm PT

Gaston Rebuffat - Entre terre et ciel

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 15, 2015 - 11:51am PT

Face Nord, Barre des Ecrins
Face Nord, Barre des Ecrins
Credit: Marlow
Barre des Ecrins
Barre des Ecrins
Credit: Marlow
Face Sud, Aiguille du Midi
Face Sud, Aiguille du Midi
Credit: Marlow
Aiguille du Plan
Aiguille du Plan
Credit: Marlow
Summit of Mont Blanc
Summit of Mont Blanc
Credit: Marlow
Dent du Geant
Dent du Geant
Credit: Marlow
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 15, 2015 - 11:59am PT
Extremeartiste

Big Wall climber
Las Vegas
Oct 27, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
I spent my summer break climbing and diving in the Calanques, the same heaven for Gaston and Patrick Edlinger, both climbers were climbing for the love of being in connection with the self, not for the quest of records. The simple desire to be in the moment with one self. Both were as close to the rock than the nature close to God. I was the same age as Patrick and we used to free dive by the rocks, today I climb were ever there is a rock, just for the sake of it, invisible of any other climber, just because climbing is were you meet your emotions and learn to deal with them. Gaston was a poet, a man of humanity, a gentle soul, a true free spirit. Climbing gym and people ego for competition has destroy people spirit and replaced it with narcissism which has killed too many climbers. Be true to yourself, be who you are. On and off the rock.
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Oct 27, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
Rebuffat was was my hero and major inspiration at the very first. Classy gentleman, helluva climber.

Gary Hemming liked him too and was inspired to make some of those aiders like his, with aluminum steps, and we tried them on the El Cap Tree. They were horrible! Like climbing with cowbells tied to your feet. But I don't think Gaston had webbing at the time. We quickly reverted to home-tied two-step surplus store webbing aiders.

Never did find a cool sweater like his.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 27, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
Ghastly, je t'aime.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 27, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
Here's a weird one on this old thread. Check out Jaybro's satirical comic on Gaston and Buhl on the second page.

Maybe you older folks knew this, but just noticed that Buhl is selling Pervitin. Were they making fun of him for performance enhancing drugs? Or did they really use Pervitin for climbs?

http://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2013/05/pilots-salt-the-third-reich-kept-its-soldiers-alert-with-meth/276429/
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 28, 2015 - 07:10pm PT
Bump for the comic strip from the past calling Hermann Buhl a tweeker.

Anybody know if these old guys were using performance enhancing drugs, like a meth precursor?
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 29, 2015 - 01:55am PT
Hey Extremeartiste, I used to work in Pierrefeu-du-Var and would take the small Peugeot 104 company car and drive to the Calanques (about an hour away) regularly. Great climbing and swimming, but nowadays I hear that Cassis is overrun by tourists, but it sort of was back then too (1982).
jogill

climber
Colorado
Oct 29, 2015 - 11:26am PT
I did not see a reference to Hermann Buhl in that article. Maybe I missed a link?

edit: OK, I saw the cartoon on page two. Was it speculation or known that Buhl took this stuff? I read his book years ago but can't recall him mentioning drugs, only eating potato skins!
Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
Oct 29, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
Gary Hemming liked him too and was inspired to make some of those aiders like his, with aluminum steps

Possibly one of his aiders is in my collection. I will try and look for it tonight.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2015 - 12:33pm PT
Buhl...to the tune of a Stone song...running to the shelter of the climbers' little helper...ha ha.

http://www.outsideonline.com/1914501/climbings-little-helper

AMPHETAMINES WERE THE FIRST drug of choice in the mountains. In 1953, Austria’s Hermann Buhl took pervitin, the superdrug that Nazi troops took before battle, during his solo first ascent of Pakistan’s Nanga Parbat. Ten years later, during his historic 1963 traverse of Everest, American climber Tom Hornbein gave two teammates, Lute Jerstad and Barry Bishop, dexedrine to aid their descent. “My impression is it didn’t do a damn bit of good,” says Hornbein, who didn’t take the speed himself.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 29, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
The US Air Force and Navy routinely give 'uppers' to single seat fighter
pilots on long redeployment flights. Hey, it's medicinal, and cheap insurance.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 29, 2015 - 06:24pm PT
Cool article about Dex, Brian.

They didn't mention their source on Buhl and the pervitin. Hopefully the source wasn't an old cartoon from supertopo.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
From Buhl's Lonely Challenge:

"I had with me a few tablets of Pudutin, a drug with stimulates the circulation and wards off frostbite, and a few pills of Pervitin for extra strength in case of extreme necessity. We had carried them ever since Base Camp."

"Completely exhausted, I fell down on the snow. Hunger racked me, thirst tortured me, but I knew I had to save the last drop as long as possible. Perhaps Pervitin was the answer? It couldn't be many hours before I got back again and the effects would last that long. Doubtfully, I swallowed two tablets and waited for them to take effect; nothing seemed to happen and I felt no benefit. Or was it that they had already done their work and that without out them I would never have been able to get up again? You never know with tablets!"

His own words.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Oct 29, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
Oxygen or speed?

What's the difference?
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 29, 2015 - 07:02pm PT
Thanks Brian, I guess the old comic had the pervitin part right.

It does appear though that he used them in need, rather than chomping them for the way up?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
Nah...he was on the way up...
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 29, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
So....tweeker?

He seems to have some familiarity with these things, "you never know with tablets."
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