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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Dec 21, 2007 - 12:48am PT
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Just saw your answer to my question, Clint. Thanks very much for your very detailed report! I can't wait to get up there sometime. Thanks again!
Michael Smith
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Dec 21, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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Nice Clint. Shows the character of the route. Bold endeavor for the season. It is a classic and one of my favorites and have done it more than any other longer route. Hard to get a photo on the knobs of the 5.7 semi-crux section of the Headwall pitch, what a pitch! Good job.
Thanks,
Ken
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Dec 21, 2007 - 07:45am PT
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Nice TR with great pics.
It's got me thinking. Some day...
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 21, 2007 - 11:14am PT
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Super fun route and your pictures do it justice.
As with le bruce (with whom I did the route) your pics make clear that off-fingers/liebacking that slanting 5.9 is a good way to up the grade and make placing pro difficult..
Another novel insight from your TR...have the leader take pics instead of having a bunch of butt shots you actually get to see the climber and the climb!
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Dec 21, 2007 - 12:29pm PT
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want
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 22, 2007 - 10:58pm PT
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Great pics... really capture the leader's perspective while en route. This just might motivate me to update my earlier trip report with pics from my silly 2-night epic on the route earlier this summer!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 23, 2007 - 12:54am PT
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Nice Clint, and all. We (Lynn, 'Wheels' Wheeler (RIP) and myself)did it the way Mal did it; Morbutt, but in more favorable weather, first week of November. For some reason we weren't started on pitch one of the Moratorium until about 9:45. All went somethly and we dallied in the coolest spots; I liked the 5.7 knobby pitches best. We topped out, made it to the spider web, and started rapping just as the sun went below the western horizon (no headlamps). We rapped and ran and made it to the car at the time that could just be called full night darkness.
Days don't get much better than that!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Dec 23, 2007 - 01:03am PT
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My favorite pics:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 24, 2007 - 11:04am PT
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Hey Clint- since you pay attention to the details.....I have heard rumors that a crucial fixed piton has come out of the crux pitch. Any idea what sort of piton it was and if satisfactory pro can be arranged in its absence? If anybody else has noticed this development or has constructive input fire away. Otherwise, great TR and thread.
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 24, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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whats the crux pitch? the 6 feet of 10b on pitch 2? the slanting 5.9 offfingers before the offwidth/face variation 5.9? the face variation 5.9 itself? W
e did the route earlier this fall and didnt feel there was any hard to protect run outs - run outs on easy ground and an overstated (in the ST) mental crux pitch that took far more protection than the topo suggests. My partner led that pitch (so easy for me to say), but I noted that in the one section he did run it out more than 10ft on that pitch he was actually skipping potential small alien placements.
The belay that protects the 10b moves on pitch 2 is solid (pins and back up with cams in two seperate cracks) with fairly easy to get small nuts above the belay to protect those few thin moves.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 25, 2007 - 12:39pm PT
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Wow, really enjoyable TR and nice picts.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2007 - 06:41pm PT
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Steve,
> I have heard rumors that a crucial fixed piton has come out of the crux pitch. Any idea what sort of piton it was and if satisfactory pro can be arranged in its absence?
Kupandamingi answered this quite accurately. The fixed pin at the short crux on p2 came out a few years ago. As it turns out, it was not crucial, because you still get pro above your waist, in the thin crack directly above the belayer (visible in my second photo). The pin was somewhat handy for aiding through the crux, but people have still been aiding through it, by tensioning over to the crack on the right. Even when the pin was there, I think people probably wondered if there would be a nice usable pin scar there if it was removed; as it turns out the pin scar is not very helpful for the crux. At some point, someone placed a bolt left of where the pin was, but it was chopped (and not patched very well).
A leader fall from the crux could swing back and hit the belayer, but I haven't actually heard of that happpening to anyone.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 28, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
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Seems like you could place small nuts over to the left before you venture to pull the short 10b section. As for the bolt, if I recall correctly, Steck gave his blessing for the addition of the bolt after the pin came out and it was still chopped.
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gomer-pyle
Big Wall climber
I am everywhere
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sweet bump...
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 10, 2010 - 01:55am PT
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Regarding the importance of that absent fixed pin... my recollection is it was a missing bolt in the middle of the step-up/across face move, and I took a 12' pendulum from above that to below the belayer twice in a row on my first visit there. Kinda hurt my foot/leg, we called it a day, but it was hot then and I was a wuss.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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we did the climb yesterday and I had a bit of a problem getting across the crux 10b move. I didn't want to do it without pro cause I'm a gumby. I saw the thin crack above the belay but thot my #1 nut was too big. After reading what people posted here, maybe I was wrong. I tensioned across to the crack on the right, after falling a couple times and slaming the cliff face below the delayer. The move sure was much better (IMHO) with the added bolt in place. I suppose if there were an appropriately placed pin that could also be a solution but someone would probably pull the pin, then someone would replace it and then someone would pull it etc (pretty soon you'd have a Serenity Crack). Personally, I'd like to see the bolt reinstalled especially if the first ascensionist gave his approval (as stated in this post)
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Cassidy
Trad climber
Nova Scotia
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Oct 30, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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Took a while, but I finally made it back to Yosemite to try out a couple o routes.
Managed to get up Half Dome and the East Buttress. Awesome.
Thanks for some of that inspiration coming from the super taco!
-Sean
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