Recent Ascents on The Streaked

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Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 12, 2007 - 01:05am PT

Warning: Spray Ahead, but newsworthy methinks…

I just wanted to give a shout out and give props and congratulate a few guys that have climbed The Streaked Wall in Zion, lately.

My good buddy Matt Erdmann from Wisconsin climbed the First Solo Ascent of the formation’s face via Tales of the Scorpion. This was a big one for Matt as he bailed off the route once before with a partner, this is a huge undertaking for a single person and a proud accomplishment. Very nice, Matt!! OOUUUAAHHHH!!!

Nate Brown and Matt Meinzer just did a 33.5 hour push on Latitudes, which is only the fourth time the routes have seen “speed” ascent's and second time from the parking lot to the summit, in a single push. Leaving their car at midnight they witnessed two sun rises and 28 hours on the wall proper before topping out on the summit. AWESOME guys!!

Nate also became a member of the “Triple Streaked” club. Yep… it’s small, just two members, haa haa.

Well, I probably shouldn’t mention my friend Kristoffer being up there, he’s solo as well. I can’t congratulate him yet but I know he’s going to make it. Hopefully we’ll get a trip report and pics first hand, after he sends. Sick!!!

Get out and GET IT!!!
marky

climber
Nov 12, 2007 - 01:37am PT
not bad
Kartch

climber
belgrade, mt
Nov 12, 2007 - 09:09am PT
The SUU and George Wythe alumni boards will be so proud.

Nice job my perps.
Mr.T

Big Wall climber
topanga
Nov 12, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
WORD!!!
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Nov 12, 2007 - 11:04pm PT
A proud effort by all, thanks for the news Ammon.

Keep us posted. Just the approach to the streaked wall with gear & water,is a grade IV for most folks.


Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2007 - 11:42pm PT

Not a recent pic but here's a good one taken by Flouride, I think in '05


Edit: I heard Kris, aka: The Zephyr is a couple of pitches up... GO bro!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 13, 2007 - 08:13am PT
So,......

how many ascents before the placements blow out from hammering?




Or doesn't it matter as long as you get to do it?

(We'll see if certain players can engage in a serious discussion, or just resort to derision.)
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
Lanham MD
Nov 13, 2007 - 12:41pm PT
Nice work to the climbers!

In terms of Ron's statement...I guess that push>shove the routes are there to be climbed. Responsibly and as clean as possible, but they are there to be climbed.

I'm going to plead ignorance on the specifics of the Streaked Wall, but I'm guessing that by the nature of Ammon's post, the thing doesn't go easily, and the folks that are on it aren't wall noobs who are going to bash the living hell out of the placements, overdrive pins, etc.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Nov 13, 2007 - 01:40pm PT
There was a great tr last year on the streaked wall with some good close up pics of placements etc...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=287557&msg=307189#msg307189
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 13, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
What a buzz to be proud of; "I got there before it got pinned out."

"There to be climbed" ? Sort of selfish if it means their destruction as well. Even if they don't "bash", repeated hammering causes cumulative damage.
Unfortunately this is not a black and white issue as even nutting causes damage. There are compromises to made. But the Streaked Wall is at the most selfish end of the climbing spectrum.
Its all about "me first" and the proponents care little if at all about a legacy that may include the justification for the rangers to close all the rocks to everyone just to save trouble.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Nov 13, 2007 - 03:57pm PT
yeah ron. they ought to place tons of bolt ladders, carve out nut placements and generally "make" an A1 route up the thing like some other famous zions climbers did on other walls years ago.

then they can bitch about the traffic.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 13, 2007 - 04:03pm PT
Take a number.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
Bozeman
Nov 13, 2007 - 04:44pm PT
Nice!!!

looks like a very impressive wall, thanks for posting up!!!
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Nov 13, 2007 - 05:09pm PT
PR, it must be hell to suffer from short man syndrome....
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
Nov 13, 2007 - 07:25pm PT
flippin sweet.

Orion

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 13, 2007 - 07:50pm PT
Is that Nate Brown from Washington?

I think he's the same guy I hopped around cambodia with back in
2005.

Nice send regardless of if I know these guys!

Sam
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 13, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
Sooooooo,.... I don't like seeing sandstone beat out because I'm short?
What's up with that Hawkeye?

(Like I said, serious discussion or just derision.)
Mimi

climber
Nov 13, 2007 - 08:21pm PT
Blindeye has already made up his mind about unnecessary nailing. He's a boy of manifest destiny. You really show your colors with your comment to Ron, but no surprise.

I almost posted to Ammon as the second post but I held back again because I knew it would be confrontational. Thanks Ron for stepping up and reminding me that we have to continue to remind the masses about the consequences of bad style.

Ron has the stones to pony up and point this issue out AGAIN for you lame asses who don't give a crap and don't have the skill, desire, or patience to aid climb at a higher level. I hope Ammon posts up and reports that we are wrong in our assumptions and that these guys did it in excellent style and are doing their best to steer aid speedclimbing in the right direction by maintaining high regard for protecting the stone.

Continue on, this horse is still kicking.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 13, 2007 - 08:48pm PT
"Ron has the stones to pony up and point this issue out AGAIN for you lame asses who don't give a crap and don't have the skill, desire, or patience to aid climb at a higher level."

What would some examples of aid climbing at a higher level than sending something on the Streaked Wall w/o hauling bivy gear be? Would you mind sharing your own creds on this (since you're calling others out)? I'd be interested in knowing about folks pushing the envelope of clean climbing into the C4+/C5 realm. Breaking new ground while treading as lightly as can be is something that I often find inspiring.

Most of these existing routes yearning to go clean wouldn't 'exist' withoout butt loads of nailing and driling in the first place. The rock doesn't care about your pin scars and with all of the undiscovered routes in Zion, is it really such a crime that the FA experience on such soft stone will always be an ephemeral one?
piquaclimber

Trad climber
Durango
Nov 13, 2007 - 08:50pm PT
Ron and Mimi,

Are you two saying that this route should not be climbed at all unless it can be done without the use of pitons?

If you're not saying this, could you please clarify your position for me? When is it ok to nail on this route?

If yes, are you saying that one should never nail on sandstone?

Brad
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