A Meteora Rockclimbing Experience

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2007 - 11:32pm PT
s_mestdagh!
How fun that you identified the woman in Dieder Hasse's photo.
Hasse really captures the Meteora Experience and his productivity there would seem unsurpassed.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2007 - 12:08am PT
Kastraki abounds in hospitality and the Taverna (bar) was a popular haunt:




These guys cooked many of our meals, on the right is young Vangelis.
When it came time to go, I left him my rope and I've since heard he became quite the climber:




French guy on the left and one of my partners Martin, from Vienna on the right:



The French guy was, among other things, a freelance tandem para glider pilot.

He had promised Jane a ride up with him so when that day came, Micha and I found ourselves helping him to secure the craft’s “wings” to the ground, by placing golf ball sized pebbles onto the fabric to keep the thing from getting drug away in the winds.

As we were instructed to hurriedly lay out the pebbles, busily trapping the billowing nylon and keeping it from prematurely being drug over a cliff, we glanced sideways at each other, no words needed; we thought this scheme was nuts and we alternately glanced over at Jane, who seemed nonplussed and firmly intent on seeing this thing happen.

The two of them got all strapped in and I don’t know what happened with all the rocks, but they caught the wind and were out of there, over the edge they went and quickly spiraled up over our heads. Seemingly within an instant Frenchie & Jane must have been several hundred feet above, but we could tell she was having the time of her life, transfixed and awestruck; she just hung from the harness like a rag doll, staring down in wonderment.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2007 - 12:17am PT
When guys go out for a day on the cobbles, it’s good if they don’t take themselves too seriously!
(As long as they don’t rattle off the holds from laughing at one another).




On this particular day, we climbed a most enthralling chimney line on Archimedes:




The position was spectacular. In order to start the climb you scramble into the bowels of the rock about half a rope length and then begin making upward progress out towards the sky above a bombay flair:


(photo Dieder Hasse)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2007 - 12:32am PT
For my last climb in Meteora, Jane and I made an ascent of a route called Drop of the Vulture. This was a superb three pitch route. The first pitch was much like a Tuolumne Meadows slab: the rock was flint hard and the cobbles were very small, which makes them more secure.

While the technical crux may have been the slab climbing below, what clings to my memory most is the upper head wall pitch, a dead vertical section of climbing up through a large chute, progressing on football and watermelon size cobbles. These features had to be stemmed and this activity gave a precarious feeling similar to that of ice climbing, because the holds themselves put the body so far out from the rock.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2007 - 12:45am PT
A few more splendid Dieder Hasse images for the road:





Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2007 - 12:48am PT
Jane, Micha, & Roy,
Signing off from Griechenland!
(yes prod, they now live in Boulder with their son Johan)




(photo Dieder Hasse)




Bye Bye.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 6, 2007 - 12:50am PT
Thank you for cobbling together an excellent TR!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
Shameless, narcissistic, self-promoting *bump*
Anyone else been to Metora?
Post up; I'd love to see more climbing shots.

Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 8, 2007 - 04:21pm PT
Couple of quick shots from a trip in April 06...


View from Doupiani


East Ridge of Doupiani


Crux of ER of Doupiani. 5.10a-ish move, but, easily A0-able if need be.

Crazy rock. Reminded me of a more lower angle version of Maple Canyon, with sparse pro bolts but less chossy.

We had a great trip there, somewhat plagued by rain, but, made for great monastery touring. Our trip coincided with Easter. We attended church services the night prior, which was pretty cool, in a super old church nearby our hotel.

Great pictures you've posted!

-Brian in SLC
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 8, 2007 - 04:27pm PT
Never been there, I've nothing to add, except it's been fun following your slides and stories.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2007 - 04:39pm PT
Thanks Chiloe, Anders & everyone -glad you enjoyed the obscure tour.

Hey that's cool Brian!
The rock is sandstone and varies from near dirt to really clean and solid, mostly somewhere in between...
The Doupiani: I haven't read the word for quite some time, cheers & thanks for the shots!

Roy
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Nov 8, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
We'll call this one, "Still Life of Five Boobs".



healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 8, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
Interesting stuff Tar. Always wondered what that rock was like close up - it's not what I expected at all. Looks like it would make for some real cheesegrater falls on the lower angle stuff.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
Yes Healyje, like a coarse limestone embedded with myriad protruding granite river stones.
It could grate on the boobs for sure!
Ezra

Trad climber
WA, NC
Nov 8, 2007 - 08:03pm PT
Great Stories and Pics Tar, Thank you much!
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Nov 8, 2007 - 08:12pm PT
To the gelateria!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2007 - 12:59am PT
bump for Anastasia.
Where you been girl?
Your like totally one of the only Greek types I know of on the forum, yo.
Anastasia

Trad climber
California
Nov 11, 2007 - 01:26am PT
Tarbuster!
Thank you for waking me up, I was hibernating...
This thread is making me homesick!
I will post up some pics tomorrow.
Now I am full of thoughts of Neils and Kit who are as much part of Greece as I am.
(Nase kala!)
AF




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2007 - 01:41am PT
Most excellent Ana!
I look forward to the enjoyment of that which you have to share (pearls).
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Nov 11, 2007 - 09:44am PT
WOW I can't believe I missed this awesome thread.

Thanks Roy for sharing,that went well with my morning coffee.
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