Owl Roof, Yosemite


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Roger Breedlove

Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Sep 28, 2005 - 10:56pm PT
Hi Tom, welcome to ST land. Glad to hear you posting up and hope that you add more.

We talk about you knowing that you are still around but out of sight.

I hope all is going well.

All the best, Roger

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Sep 29, 2005 - 02:01am PT
i HEARD the bulgarian
IVO NINOV did it last year.

la la land
Sep 29, 2005 - 02:38am PT
I don't think Ivo has done it, I know he said he had worked it. Didn't ask him about it at all this year tho.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 12, 2008 - 01:38am PT

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 12, 2008 - 01:58am PT
"my Then, friend Fred" gawd life is an adventure....

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Nov 12, 2008 - 01:59am PT
Great read. How many of these you got in your cache, Ed? LOL!

Social climber
Nov 12, 2008 - 08:43am PT
hey there scary larry.. say, not sure if your're still posting here, as i just read what you posted was 2004.... but say, quite by accident, looking for my brother mark's (chappy) name, i happened to find that aritcle... and the picture... or just the picture of mark on that ledge... man, oh, man, that was some picture:

good thing i was not there to watch... scary stuff, for a down-to-earth-dirt-stones-gal like me....

here is what you posted:
"Bridwell's article includes a good photo of Mark Chapman climbing out to the lip (as well, BTW, as a couple of photos of the recently-departed Rick White on Outer Limits). "

(i did not know rick white, but my sincere condolences to his family---that must have been back in 2004, as well)

i just found this link to an article and a great picture of mark:

say, if you scroll down, there are many more list of names and climbs... lot so info to check out...

*say, is there some other PICTURES, AND EVEN SOME IN COLOR, of some other climbers attempting and doing owl roof?

say, post up, that would very interesting, and i know, kind of scary~~~~ but i would still love to see their adventures..

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Nov 12, 2008 - 08:51am PT
i recall that Dean Potter free soloed this pitch??

on his way to Heaven.

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Nov 12, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
I posted this story almost three years ago to the day. It centered around my only real attempt on the Owl (I did go up once before but it was a farce. Even more so than this one!)

I'll take the liberty of posting it again since it involves both the Owl and dear old Yabo.

The last climb I did with him was the Owl Roof in the valley. Don't even know if it's in the guides anymore, but this is a 90-degree roof with a nasty fist crack. Yabo took the sharp end while I hoped for a few points of pro to protect me from the nightmare of skull against granite. In true John fashion he made it within inches of the lip before lodging a hex. He couldn't turn the roof and lowered off. Now it was my turn. I managed to get horizontal before hearing the shouts of Kauk, Besio, Bard (as I remember) and others on the road below. Unable to duplicate Yabo's lead I relaxed and arced. My climbing may have lacked panache, but at least Yabo's lead gave me a great ride. This guy is smiling because he is still here. He gives each of us that little bit of craziness we need to push harder.

Miss ya, John.

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Nov 12, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
I tried the Owl with Randy Levitt back in the late 70s and neither one of us could get ourselves over the lip. There's some trick sit-up move, possibly requiring getting your feet above you or some such thing. Man, that was a thrutch getting out there and thrashing around at the lip. I think I would have had to have gone back several times (or many times) to figure out what would have worked. The lip was too flared to fist jam, as I remember, so there must have been some kind of very weird and awkward flare move or something. I never felt like I was even close to getting it.


Social climber
Nov 12, 2008 - 06:57pm PT
hey there guys... say, this is really interesting... it would be neat to see a sketch of this and of all the various ways you all have tried to get-up-over... i have never heard anything like this before--though i do know that there are horizontal climbs... i did recently see a freaky picture of folks climbing horizontal (upside down, of course) in one the alpine mags that was sent my way---sadly, you all, i cannot remember the name of it... it is a very long ledge...

you all will know what i mean if you have seen the magzine...

well---back to the ol' drawing board...

some of you guys are so inspired, it would really be neat to see some sketches of this...

will check back and see if it comes to pass... very, very interesting, i do say---again...

you guys sure have a lot of "guts" and "stamina"... i admire you all...

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 13, 2008 - 02:21am PT
The Owl in the morning light...
how hard could that be?

Social climber
Nov 13, 2008 - 08:35am PT
hey there ed... WOW.. say, thanks for the morning "wake-up"---well, for me, over.... i just got up...

say, that really STANDS out... i did not know it would look that easy to view from a distance... thought it was more hidden, or blened-in colorwise to the rocks...

that's a great view of it...

sure hope to see some sketches of how folks tried to get up over it...

once again, ed, thanks for posting this "impressive" (now that i know what the ledge is and where it stands) photo...

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Nov 13, 2008 - 01:06pm PT
I loved the Alpinist article on Bob Scarpelli entitled "Squat." Do any of you locals know if he has ever come out to the Valley for an extended period of time? That guy is an offwidth monster and is apparently still going hard. Somebody should try to get him on Owl Roof if he hasn't done it already.

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 13, 2008 - 01:54pm PT
I did two trips to the valley with Bob in the mid/late seventies.

We reffered to them as the .10a OW tour (secret storm, Chingando Siberian, generator, doggies, and other stuff I can't remember), and then, the .10c OW tour (Chopper, Steppin'out, Edge of night, plumplinee, etc.) back home we were working through the oddub grades in Vedawuoo. We both got the right tube in maybe '81. Bob really took off in the early eighties, putting up Squat and a bunch of stuff, I can't begin to start to list.

I don't think Bob ever got on the Owl. Sometime in his heydey he climbed Paisano, I heard it was on his fortieth birthday, but that may be hyperbole, (he was born in 49)

He detached one of his Bicep attachments working on Belly Full of Bad Berries (his name!) @ Indian Creek. He kept on going back every other day in the June heat (mid late 90's) because he was confident his partner, Brad Jackson, would eventually get up it. And he did.

He put up more crazy ass Offwidth problems in and around Vedauwoo then you can imagine, it's only since about the turn of the century, that a new generation with the drive and skills evolved to catch up with him and expand the field.

But Russ claims he out arm wrestled him... heehee

Bob had the first wooden, fists/stacking, roof crack I ever saw, in the front yard of his pad in West Laramie. I could hang in it, but not do any moves. that was either '82 or ''87.

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Nov 13, 2008 - 02:15pm PT
Awesome Jaybro. Thanks for the history lesson.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 13, 2008 - 03:02pm PT
Jaybro and Freddie and Cpt 'Merica and Dingus have a whole lotta history that's inside 'em...

...we need to midwife that stuff... breath Jaybro, breath! now push.... you can do it!

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 21, 2009 - 12:29am PT
I had missed your post Ed, now that I've, kind of, settled comfortably into my new teaching gig, I'll get on it, and' light a fire'* under those guys...

* not original with him, but that used to be one of the Colonel's key phrases. Unless things have changed, he is probably not as psyched about today's events, as a lot of us. Frank looks like a hippy but is politically conservative, a life member of the Nra , etc...

-That, rambling, was a warm up for the history project. Also, paragraph a day is about to return, as well.

the ground up
Jan 21, 2009 - 12:55am PT
Was only gonna echo BASE104 cuz one day I saw Bard at Swan Slab with a bunch of hardcores just watching him swinging like a chimp all the way around a big square boulder there .

Jan 21, 2009 - 03:23am PT
Let me pipe up a bit about Mr. Scarpelli and Jaybro they are both Legends at Vedauwoo. (If you didn't already know)

And between them they have put up some of the most impossible lines there.

I ran into Bob last year bouldering, working on a problem in the Crow Creek area called Process of Belief, 5.13 V7.And word has it he's working a new area by Granite lake that has problems even much harder.

Yeah, So I put Bob Scarpelli right at the top and I mean the top of the older hardcore dude list.


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