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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 28, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
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Great route, and a great thread- made truly historic by the pure fact that Craig actually posted on a climbing thread!
Nice vision there Dr.F!
My fave story is Spencer's about the joint smoking Yabo bug.
So classic.
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Mar 28, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
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The Gunslinger is a four pitch route about fifty feet left of Figures, it's a great ride and has a couple two or three pitches of 12a. It's a fun one as well, and doesn't get much traffic.
50 feet to the right actually. Amazing looking route, but I never got on it.
Climbed Figures though, in like 95 with hamslice. He let me lead the first pitch.
Still smitten by the route, I need to get back there and do it again and try Such a Savage while I'm at it.
Those domes...can't imagine finding them and getting to FA there. wow.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
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Still scared thinking about when I did it. haha
The rock is so great over there, and the position. 20' into it you're like 60' off the deck and a fly on the wall. It was awesome! :)
When I did Solid Gold around 80-81' there was a group doing Figures. The guys were doing the route and the girls were sun bathing nude at the base. Very distracting while I was leading the first pitch of SG. lol
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Mar 28, 2014 - 07:24pm PT
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I had not seen this thread before. Great pics and great stories.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
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Was hoping the foot was healed up by now. I will help T H carry the beer and herbs, and help provide the appropriate amount of heckling.
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R.B.
Trad climber
47N 122W
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Mar 30, 2014 - 02:06am PT
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I belong to the club of being able to climb it as "flash" when I was younger ('85?) and then taking multiple way penji whippers ('90) trying it again near the finish of the first pitch. Either something broke off or it was just a lot harder ... either way ... I took the way 30' sideways penji whipper twice, and each time, I lost my glasses down to the talus! And then I bailed off.
Great climb, but you'd better be on your "A" game. Enjoy!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Mar 30, 2014 - 10:54am PT
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I first did that route before the belay was moved up. I led the first pitch. My partner was a 6'5" guy who weighed correspondingly. Even though he was solid at the grade, I talked him into letting me lead the second pitch, too, because the thought of him possibly taking a factor 2 fall onto the belay was too terrifying!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 30, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
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Yay Todd! It would have been hard to believe if you hadn't. But is still suprises me how many haven't. Such a great climb and almost guaranteed to be empty when you show at the base. some of the best granite quality in the park, Bonzai like pines and the quiet. And the best view when you top out.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jun 22, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
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Wow, I hadn't read this in years, HILARIOUS!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jun 22, 2014 - 07:09pm PT
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Fantastic climb! One of the best!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jun 22, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
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It's over there somewhere...
Photo from last weekend in the Wonderland.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jun 23, 2014 - 07:58am PT
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just for fun bumpers.
sitting at work and burying meself
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 07:10am PT
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For historical as well as sentimental reasons, this was a personal favorite among threads I've started. But I see its historical zing has been gutted now by the admin's erasure of Dr. F.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 20, 2014 - 07:15am PT
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FA party; Randy vogel, Dave Evans (minus Dr. F. and specer )...
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Oct 20, 2014 - 11:54am PT
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Thanks for the bump on the fabulous thread, a real entertaining time suck! The removal of Craig's posts really makes for some gaps, but there are just so many stories and remembrances here that it is still a fascinating read, and the interpersonal toll is evident even without Dr. F's posts.
I liked all the spontaneous confessions of misdeeds too, I think to have climbed a long time ensures you've done something you're less than proud of. Reminds me of the scene in Eastwood's "Unforgiven" when the young guy tentatively declares to the old man that the man he'd killed had it coming, and Clint responds in a tired voice, "We all got it coming kid."
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
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The removal of Craig's posts really makes for some gaps, but there are just so many stories and remembrances here that it is still a fascinating read, and the interpersonal toll is evident even without Dr. F's posts.
True enough but it was Dr. F's entrance on page 3 that really brought out feelings and ignited the thread, not just with his viewpoint but the others he drew in.
IFO did not know about that history but it was fascinating to see it come out, and learn something about the personalities too.
Now starting on page 3 there are many invisible gaps, you have to read other posts to guess at what's been erased.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Oct 20, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
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I must agree that is unfortunate that Craig's comments in this thread (and some of the context) have have been lost as part of the "Dr.F" purge.
Still, this is a favorite thread -- thanks Chiloe for starting it. It is a good example of how this forum has brought out climbing history, ideas and divergent viewpoints in ways not previously possible.
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Jul 28, 2015 - 06:38pm PT
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climbing bump
Only lead the first pitch. My second got freaked out at the belay (after the 1st pitch traverse? looking at 2nd pitch?) and we bailed. I can only imagine the rest of the route. What a beauty.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 18, 2015 - 09:06am PT
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Bump for the article in Alpinist
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Five15Factor2
climber
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Nov 18, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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I tried to lead this about 2 years ago on a very windy day...
There was a couple of parties ahead of us so we waited in the cold shade at the bottom for a half hour or so.
I traversed over to the ledge at the first bolt, which as I recall is a wee bit off the deck.
At this point the Joshua Tree winds had come in FIERCE. Windy in Joshua Tree you say? I know, weird right....
I reached up to clip the first bolt and WOOOOOSH, a HUGE gust of wind catches the big hoody wrapped around my 145lb frame and I'm windmilling my arms to stay on the cliff, the rope uselessly running from my harness to my belayer with nary a piece nor bolt between.
I windmilled my hands back onto solid rock, and promptly retrated to the welcome safety of solid ground.
Maybe we can climb something else today?
It's still on the list.
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