Jolly Roger Photo T.R.


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Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2007 - 10:39am PT
Here are some pics of an ascent of Jolly Roger I did with Erik Eriksson last month. We started with a third person but he didn't make it 'cause the wheels blew off his bus!

This is the infamous 6th pitch with runout free climbing leading to a reported A4+ aid section. In reality, the aid wasn't too bad after all but the free mantle at the end was spicy!
Another view of pitch 6. The mantle is above the frame of the camera, you can just make out the footholds that lead into the mantle to the bolt, and pheww!.

The first hard pitch, # 11 . Wild hooking near an arete leading to thin heads and around the arete back into the Heart ampitheater.

Another view of the first hard pitch, # 11 . Wild hooking near an arete leading to thin heads and around the arete back into the Heart ampitheater.

The Golden Doubloon pitch. A 120 degree wall with a seam like that on a football arching up & out the Heart ampitheater for a 190' pitch.
This is from midway on the pitch looking up at the belay which was right at the lip of the steepest part of the pitch. The bags were free hanging and swung around constantly in the wind.

Heading up the 12th pitch, it was cold and windy almost the entire time we were up there.

Looking across the top of the Heart over towards a climber on the Salathe Wall

Looking down mid-pitch from the 13th pitch. Thank god for portaledges, the belay station Erik is hanging at was at the lip of the ampitheater and everything was free swinging!

Here we have joined with Sunkist for some easier pitches. Note the talon hook left in for protection!

Pitch #17 the ramp. Hooking and more fun into the upper corner which gobbled beaks & peckers like mad. I believe 17 beaks went in on this pitch alone!

Another view of pitch 18. PTPP gave me a topo that said to stay Right at the pillar above. Don't listen to this nonsense!! That pillar is the loose crocodile head I mentioned elsewhere in this thread. It almost expanded off the wall with me riding it down Dr. Strangelove style!

18th pitch- A3+ heads & beaks up to easier climbing.

Black Diamond makes a good 'biner. Looking back down pitch #16.

The thin beaking of the upper part of pitch #17. Those things will hang on the barest of bumps in thin seams, shallow placements to be sure but they held bounce tests so you get on it, or not.There is a ledge seperating this from the lower ramp that you wouldn't want to hit if things went wrong. This is the "break every bone in your body" if you fall section.

Amazing waves of bronze & tangerine colored stone on the Golden Doubloon pitch. Very steep, very stout, very nice!

Looking down the 18th pitch, note the bronze colored crocodile head flake. It was loose as f*%# and almost came off when I tried to move on it. It pulled out a good 3 inches from the wall and several of my cams tipped out and fell down the crack. Yowza!!!


Revised pics:
The so called "body-cleaving" pinnacle mentioned by Pete begining the 11th pitch.
Another shot of the A4 hooking ramp on pitch 17. Note the glacier polish? on the slab.

Hauling above Little John in perfect weather.
Thin expanding flakes on the 13th pitch, old A4+, modern A3, due to modern cams & offsets.
The Captain's Quarters ledge.
The top at last. Even though the sun was out, it was windy & cold. Here, I'm breaking down the haulbags at the final belay tree.
Pitch 20, off the Crow's Nest, a tiny stance with a slung horn incorporated into the belay.
The Seven Seas pitch, an A2 beauty that bore the signs of some recent free climbing attempts( ie- chalked tick marks at key holds & gear placements. There was also a modern sport anchor above with a line of bolts entering & exiting some steep, wild looking rock.
A climber on the Shield.

Pitch # 13, which is the joining point with Sunkist, and passes belay #7 of Sunkist and goes all the way in a long pitch to what is belay #8 but on the J.R., it is numero 13.
Looking down pitch 16 from the point where J.R. & Sunkist diverge.


right here, right now
Oct 27, 2007 - 10:41am PT
Man, you guys just keep going, and going!

Social climber
St. Looney
Oct 27, 2007 - 11:52am PT
The Fake Blinny expressed it perfectly

Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
Oct 27, 2007 - 11:53am PT
Bill and E, congratulations! Those pitches look amazing(ly thin!)

Ya know, I was ready for some excitement when I opened the thread, but I think you are really asking too much of us when you expect us to be able to handle the *free climbing* in the First Photo this early in the morning.

Thank you for posting all of the great pictures.


'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 27, 2007 - 11:53am PT
I hope Bill is just taking a break from the editing [which takes a HUGE amount of time in a post like this] and will soon re-arrange the out-of-order photos and add lots more photo captions so everyone else knows what's what.

I hope there are a few Tom Evans telephoto pix available to splice in, too.

Superb recognizable photos from what is probably my all-time favourite El Cap route, which we climbed eight years ago. I have tons and questions and comments, but will wait a bit. Go Bill go!

Yes, Kate - you'll need a Rope Gun for a few of the pitches. My partner Jon Fox talked about 5.11x handslaps up and left of Mammoth, so I'd like to hear about that. And also the body-cleaving pinnacle - I wonder if Erik bypassed it somehow?

right here, right now
Oct 27, 2007 - 12:14pm PT
Those are damn nice pics!
How many days on the wall?
I was guiding the Salathe when Xavier Bongard was soloing the route.
He let out quite a yelp after finishing some hair ball lead,
As we were working left past the Heart, maybe in the vicinity of the Gold Doubloon...

Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
Oct 27, 2007 - 12:20pm PT
Pete, trust me, I have no plans to climb Jolly Roger! YEOW!

Plus, its on the wrong side. If you fell, you might land in Fresno, which would only add insult to injury...or v.v.!



Social climber
Ventura, California
Oct 27, 2007 - 12:31pm PT
WOW that was frigin great!

Thanks for showing

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2007 - 12:48pm PT
Thanks for the nice comments! I'll post more pics & comments later but I am busy at work this morning. More to follow for sure!

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 27, 2007 - 01:06pm PT

Thanks for posting your pics, I have allways wanted to see close ups of this route. Congrats on your climb!

Trad climber
Oct 27, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
Great stuff, thank you.
lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 27, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
Probably the best big wall photo TR ever, on this forum. Truly amazing!!!

Best to ya

chico ca
Oct 27, 2007 - 01:25pm PT
Great Pictures!!!!

Oct 27, 2007 - 02:06pm PT
Great job on the route and TR, Bill.

Thanks for the Saturday morning palm sweat, hehe.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Oct 27, 2007 - 02:57pm PT
Good one guys!

Oct 27, 2007 - 03:04pm PT
Awesome. thanks for posting the tr.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 27, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
A nice report!

Y'all see any, you know, like pirates or anything up there? Just wondering - Hallowe'en is coming soon.

Gym climber
Oct 27, 2007 - 03:29pm PT
That was an amazing TR thanks so much to both of you.

It is just to bad that PTPP didn't fill in his own captions to these pictures, since he apparently wants you to know he has also been there as well. Hopefully he will return with his questions and comments he promised, so we can hear more about his, i mean your trip. Then "everyone else" will know what went on up there.

It is someone elses chance to shine and like usual the spraymaster wants to talk about himself.


Trad climber
Oct 27, 2007 - 04:04pm PT
soooo coool! thanks for sharing!


Crestline CA
Oct 27, 2007 - 06:25pm PT
Yo.... from a guy who knows just a little about photography... I got to say these are some of the best big wall shots by climbers I have ever seen on this forum...WAY TO FCUKING GO LADS!!!!
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