Stonemaster Stories and Pictures Needed

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Messages 1 - 84 of total 84 in this topic
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 25, 2007 - 04:47pm PT
Yo, yo . . .

Looks like we're finally going to put together a book on the Stonemasters. Dean F. (a.k.a., Bullwinkle) of Stonenudes.com fame will be wrangling the photos, leaving me to get the text together. I'll announce the publisher once the paperwork between us is finished - it's in the works as we speak.

While both Dean and I am going to contribute pictures and stories, this is a community wide effort and will require much more material than what we can provide individually.

So I need your help to get this thing going. The main issue(s) is:

Which are all ye favorites in terms of pictures and stories per the Stonemasters, where did you see them and who took/wrote them? I need to get a list going here and if dropping said story or pic right onto this thread is the easiest way, kindly do that.

The Stonemaster glory days were basically from 1971 - 1976, with the scene of the crime usually being Josh, Tahquitz and Suicide, and Yosemite. Stonemaster forays to the Alps, England, Canada, Mexico, et al are also desired so long as they fall (roughly) within the aforementioned time frame.

Thanks!

John Long
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Oct 25, 2007 - 05:07pm PT
That is F-ing awesome news.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Oct 25, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
Deja vu?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=211354&msg=214596#msg214596

It would be cool to review the 12 part (at least) Stonemaster series:

(drill down to part 1).
http://www.supertopo.com/forumsearch.html?s=ratings&o=ASC&v=0&cur=75&ftr=stonemasters+largo#list

If you add up all the posts, I think this was by far the biggest "thread" of all time...
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Oct 25, 2007 - 05:21pm PT
Since Dean F. is taking care of the images does that mean we have to suffer seeing the Stonemasters in the buff? God I hope not.

Well there is one Stonemaster that would be a pleasure to see in the buff, but I'm not naming names, or what sex she is.

Oops! Dang it all. I gave that one away :-))


On-edit:

Please do a special chapter on Tobin Sorenson (I'm sure you thought of that already), and also include a bit about the semi-links between the Stonemasters and the Poway Mountain Boys. Turns out Tobin was involved in both.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Oct 25, 2007 - 05:33pm PT
Here's the original thread that started it all. I think it went at least to part XI, if knott higher...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=145850&msg=147931#msg147931

Someone made a post with all the threads in order; if someone finds it, maybe post it here?
bler

Boulder climber
Alamo, CA
Oct 25, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
the FA of 'dominator' ?
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2007 - 05:55pm PT
Before this gets all spread out in thread drifts, let me say this: I'm looking for existing stories, stuff already written that appeared somewhere at some time. "Do a chapter on Tobin" doesn't help (we WILL do a bunch on Tobin) because it doesn't refer us to anything tangible like an existing article or picture.

Again, what we need are the names of EXISTING ARTICLES YOU HAVE READ SOMEWHERE that pertain to the Golden Age of the Stonemasters (circa 1971-1976). Same for photos. Sources of where to find said stories and pics are also much needed.

I truly appreciate the enthusiasm about the project, but only specific references and titles will help us at this point.

Thank you very much,

JL
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Oct 25, 2007 - 05:59pm PT
this is short, but i'm not sure how much they've written on the subject.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=221504&msg=261667#msg261667


Rick A talks about the FFA of the Beckey-Chouinard
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Oct 25, 2007 - 06:26pm PT
Werner has some of the best damn stories and such a wealth of knowledge. I'd say get him involved if you can. He has such a unique and humorous perspective on those things too.
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
Oct 25, 2007 - 06:56pm PT
Largo,
I still think it would be cool for you to hear Phil Warrender's version of the origin of the stonemasters... besides, you haven't seen him in too Long!
Ed
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Oct 26, 2007 - 02:51am PT
I climbed with almost all of the stonemasters at one time or another through the years, even during their heyday. I guess I was wondering if that makes me a kind of vicarious stonemaster. Or is this exclusively Californians? And am I just a partner to the original Master of Rock?
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Oct 26, 2007 - 04:01am PT
Pat,

There's nothing vicarious about your influence on the StoneMaster's. Your routes, boulder problems, books, photogrpahs and groundbreaking visionary film "Silent Climber" inspired and fueled all of us.

I don't really think your role in the book will be so much a SoCal punk, like those boy's were, just a Master of Stone. . .DF
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 26, 2007 - 04:05am PT
I don't know if it was the stonemaster era or not but as a former curry employee, i thought the story of the climber romancing the daughter of a curry executive and somehow getting busted by the bigwig just after having to take a dump on some newspapers on the floor was priceless.

You wrote that

Peace

Karl
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 26, 2007 - 12:15pm PT
I will try to sit down and rummage through my memory and collection of books and stories to put my 2 cents in... but at least one new piece has to be written for the collection which details the historic time line and the accomplishments of the Stonemasters... that is something I have not seen, but I believe that any new account that doesn't summarize the climbing accomplishments in the greater context of climbing in North America would miss an opportunity to extend the historical dialog.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 26, 2007 - 12:15pm PT
"Gee Wally, can I be a Stonemaster someday?"

James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Oct 26, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
There's an old letter to the editor that JL wrote circa early 70s about how some of the hardest stuff was going down in his neck of the woods. I can't seem to find the date of the article but can look harder if you want.

Are you gonna conclude with a short piece on present day monkeys?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 26, 2007 - 12:19pm PT
Leave it to Largo....Good on ya for taking on the project. Lots of source material on the ST without a doubt. Look forward to checking it out.
TradIsGood

Half fast climber
the Gunks end of the country
Oct 26, 2007 - 12:26pm PT
I would urge Largo and Bullwinkle to consider adding an author who seems to have a colorful past but could not set up her own Taco account... Just to keep it honest, sort of.

(edit:)

Of course a chapter describing the evolution of the techniques used to get the "models" to pose climbing would make for some great lies.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Oct 26, 2007 - 05:33pm PT
I've been waiting for this book for soo long...

Thanks for taking this project on!
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 26, 2007 - 08:17pm PT
"Gee Wally, that Bullwinkle guy sure is scary."

graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Oct 26, 2007 - 08:54pm PT
Dean (Bullwinkle) has a small teaser of photos for members to view at stonemastergear.com

Easy to register, then click on Portfolios.
phillip mike revis

climber
snowbird, ut
Oct 26, 2007 - 11:52pm PT
the photos and text from meyer's book yosemite climber capture a lot from that era
when i was 16 i flipped through that book at my local climbing shop in western nc as soon as i had the money i went back and bought it because i wanted to be like those dudes
that book provided the inspiration for a lifetime of adventure for me
john bald

climber
Oct 27, 2007 - 12:45pm PT
John,
Looking forward to a great read. Thanks for tackling the project.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Oct 27, 2007 - 01:45pm PT
Largo,
This could well blow away Craig Stecyck/Geln E Friedman's "Dog Town and Z-boys"...just don't sell the rights to a Hollywood for a travesty like "Lords of Dogtown."
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2007 - 11:08pm PT
Yo, I know there's a bunch of good stories that were written back in the day but I'm not hearing anyone mentioning same. Wish I could remember them but I can't nor do I have copies of the old rags.

Anyone have a lead on where to get the old mags?? Remember all that old stuff from Ascent, Climbing, Mountain, et al??


JL
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Oct 27, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
Bachar, thanks for the laugh!
Me too Beaver!!

Largo:
I'll paw through my collection of old mags (in the next few days) and see if I can find anything.
Mimi

climber
Oct 27, 2007 - 11:53pm PT
JL, will sort through the mag collection and email to you.

Looking forward to the book and would love a signed copy to help with the cause.

Cheers,
Mimi
Mimi

climber
Oct 28, 2007 - 12:48pm PT
Stories surrounding these and other reported classic climbs would be awesome especially if they haven't been thoroughly written up yet.

Cover: American Speed Climbers; L to R, Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell, and John Long prior to their first ascent of Yosemite's El Capitan (Nose Route) in 15 hours. Each climber lead continuously a predetermined portion of the route, with Long handling the first section, Westbay the second, and Bridwell the grueling final 5 hours to the summit. Photo: Billy Westbay.

JL, you were an editorial assistant for NA Climber. Do you recall how many issues were printed during that run?



bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 28, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
There was that article by Mark Miller about "Insomnia" in Summit Mag (date ?)...

Mimi

climber
Oct 28, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
Here's the latest Stonemaster Stories X which includes all the previous threads at the top of it for continuity.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=210947&f=0&b=0
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 28, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
OK,
Can't recall too many Stonemasters specific stories other than Three Little Fishes, which of course should make the grade, but: Ricky and I went out for a little slabbing today and afterwards we discussed the genesis of the Stone Master experience. It seems the crucial inception years were ‘71 to ’73.

I heard tell of Largo, taking a Nols course in ‘71 and teaching a quick climbing class at Upland High School to Ricky and one or two others, followed by some first ascents of chimneys in Dome Lands Wilderness, circa ‘71/72 promptly mixed with other Joshua tree ascents using goldline and pitons, then by ’73, BLAMO!!!: Le Toit is freed and so much more…

Accomazzo has an early Taquitz guidebook annotated by Largo for ascents/free ascents: great stuff.

This is a ballistic trajectory, and I want some fleshy, detailed accounts, rife with the smell and feel of those germinal days…
Mimi

climber
Oct 28, 2007 - 10:55pm PT
Right on Roy and an important point about scarcity of stories. I could almost smell those germy days re-viewing the pics in threads I-X. You guys are great.

Oral histories are mostly what's available and they should be preserved in writing and on film if possible. The more tales the Stonemasters can write up or be interviewed/transcribed for JL and BW, the more significant their work will be. Huge effort.
WBraun

climber
Oct 28, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
There's only one "Master"

All the rest are disciples.

Now-a-days everyone thinks/is a master, and there's only one disciple?
WBraun

climber
Oct 28, 2007 - 11:21pm PT
You must take long journey into the knowledge of the "Super Soul".

Then you will find the real Stone Master. All the rest are actors.
Mimi

climber
Oct 28, 2007 - 11:21pm PT
One John to rule them all. One John to guide them. One John to run it out, and on the stone you'll find them.

Oooh, I think I outdid myself.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 28, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
"Traverse of the Boneheads" a vignette penned by Rick A, now that jarred some nice aroma.

-Yes WB, all are actors, but what an act to master.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 29, 2007 - 11:35am PT
He was defintiely stoned....and definitely a master.

Yabo on the first free solo of Spiderline (also the first "lead").
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
Roy, et al, these are great insights and rememberances but I really need to have some kind of trail where I can track this shite down, whatever had been written. Calling attention to a great piece is a crucial first step but I need the actual piece if such a thing exists.

Thanks,

JL
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 29, 2007 - 03:26pm PT
Understood John,
It is very time consuming to write even one piece; so you want to gather everything extant and go from that foundation.

Tell us if you are in possession of the things that you have published.
For instance, I think these two are yours, if not, perhaps some of us can dig them up from magazine archives:

1) Three Little Fishes: the account of freeing The Vampire.
2) Title unknown: but an account you wrote describing an ascent of Middle Cathedral with Bridwell. In particular, I recall you described hauling a gallon jug of water on a sling around your neck.


Traverse of the Boneheads: Rick A wrote this and posted it into the Stonemasters threads.
If digging for it is too much, perhaps he has a copy he can send you?

Roy
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2007 - 03:48pm PT
Thanks, Roy. Of course I have all of my stuff somewhere (not here at my house, that's for sure) but I can probably dig it up. But the purpose of the Stonemaster book is not to just showcase my writing - I only want to include a few of my stories. We want a balance and many entries from many folk. Everyone's already heard my stuff - what's needed is now material relative to that time ('71-'76). Perhaps from you, Roy. You were there. Pony it up, dood!

JL

graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Oct 29, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
Nice shot of Yabo there, looks as though he just ate the Bird.


Here is a link to Largo’s “Three little Fish”
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 30, 2007 - 01:57am PT
when I think of the Stonemasters I think Suicide Rock... here is a list of FAs and FFAs by known date... I don't know all these characters, but it might just be the death of enough brain cells that I don't remember...

from Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks AAC Climber's Guide edited by C. Wilts 6th Edition ©1979

Suicide Rock

Jackal 5.9, FA November 1971; M. Kaeser, Phil Warrender, J. Lonnie, T. Emerson
Free Lance 5.10, FA November 1971; John Long, B. Pottorff
Mikey Mantel 5.8, FA April 1972; J. Wilson, Phil Warrender
The Ultimatum 5.10, FA April 1972; John Long, Gib Lewis
Godzilla's Return 5.10+, FA April 1972; John Long, H. Aprin
Blown Out 5.10+, FA May 1972; Greg Bender, Phil Warrender
The Fiend 5.9, FA June 1972; J. Wilson, Phil Warrender
Drowned Out 5.9, FA September 1972; J. Knutson, Phil Warrender
Flower of Higher Rank 5.9, FA October 1972; Robs Muir, Mike Graham
Insomnia 5.11, FFA 1972; Jim Erickson
Arpa Carpa 5.9, FA May 1973; Phil Warrender, J. Wilson, Tobin Sorenson, P. Cowan
Forrest Lawn A2, FA May 1973; Phil Warrender, J. Wilson, Tobin Sorenson
Ten Karat Gold 5.10, FA June 1973; John Long, Richard Harrison, Rick Accomazzo, Don Watson
New Generation 5.11, FA July 1973; Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson
Question of Balance 5.10+, FA July 1973; Tobin Sorenson, B. Antel
Jigsaw 5.9, FA July 1973; Tobin Sorenson, B. Antel, John Long, Robs Muir, Richard Harrison, B. Foster
Mantel of No Return 5.8, FA October 1973; J. Wilson, Gib Lewis, K. Cooper
The Drain Pipe 5.11, FFA 1973; John Long, Richard Harrison
Sensuous Corner 5.9, FA 1973; Gib Lewis, G. Labadie
Down and Out 5.10, FA March 1974; Gib Lewis, J. Wilson
Wild Gazongas 5.10, FA July 1975; Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, John Long
Zucchinis from Alpha Centauri 5.10, FA July 1975; J. Wilson, P. Wilkening, R. Shockley
Hesitation Direct 5.11, FA 1975; John Long, Eric Eriksson
Flakes of Wrath 5.10+, FA 1975; John Bachar, Gib Lewis, Wilson, John Long, Eriksson, Tobin Sorenson
Quiet Desperation 5.11, FA March 1976; Gib Lewis, Rick Accomazzo, J. Wilson
Small Affair 5.9, FA 1977; John Long, W. Antel,
The Man Who Fell To Earth 5.10+, FA 1978; Eric Eriksson, T. Powell


Pink Royd 5.10+, FA ?; Eric Eriksson, John Long
Superfly 5.8, FA ?; W. Antel, Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson, Rick Accomazzo
Double Exposure 5.11, FA ?; Tobin Sorenson, Gib Lewis, K. Casper
Low Pressure 5.10, FA ?; Tobin Sorenson, Gib Lewis
Season's End 5.11, FA ?; Tobin Sorenson, Mike Graham
Dilema A3, FA ?; John Long, J. Wilson
Razor's Edge 5.8, FA ?; J. Wilson, Tobin Sorenson, John Long
Obscured by Clouds 5.10, FA ?; Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson, Gib Lewis
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Oct 30, 2007 - 02:18am PT
John/Bullwinkle,

Dave E and I have been discussing a suite of stories we might collaborate on hallmarking some our "younger" generation and adventures in the Stonemaster era.

Is there a submission deadline?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 30, 2007 - 02:28am PT
some stuff from Climbing which might be worth a re-read

Rick Accomazzo "The Dru Couloir Direct" Climbing (48) 21
Tobin Sorenson, "Witlessly Bold, Heroically Dull" Climbing (58) 14
Tobin Sorenson, Obituary, Climbing (64) 8, 34
John Steiger, "Johnny Rock" Profile of John Bachar, Climbing (98) 30
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 30, 2007 - 02:50am PT

Tobin Sorenson
AAJ 1978 Europe pp 587-588
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1978/europe1978_587-588.pdf

AAJ 1978 Book Review of Climbing Ice pp 656-666
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1978/books1978_656-666.pdf

AAJ 1981 In memorium p347
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1981/347_inmemoriam_aaj1981.pd
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Oct 30, 2007 - 11:54am PT
Ed, that’s Jim Erickson (from CO.) on Insomnia. He was definitely a Stonemaster

Glad I was there. That FFA was one of the best climbing efforts I’ve seen too date.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 30, 2007 - 02:44pm PT
thanks Mike, I suspect that Wilts' FA and FFA attributions have a number of errors, so corrections are much appreciated!

Many of these routes were being done as I was learning, with the Sierra Club... in the view of the Rock Climbing section, the degree of difficulty was beyond anything that they really understood. I never went over "there" during that time, funny what you pick up by those who are learnin' ya.

Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Oct 30, 2007 - 02:50pm PT
That WAS funny, Mimi...
john bald

climber
Oct 30, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
Hey John...thanks to Ed (posting Suicide fa's)I remembered Don Watson. Fun to think of all the good folks we climbed with back then....When asked where to pick up Don on my next trip to JT, Don said come by the park in Riverside..."you live in the park?"..."yea just look for the merry-go-round...I live under it."
cheers
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2007 - 07:33pm PT
Now we're talking, boys. Ed, you're heaven-sent and John Bald I haven't seen you since we did the first free ascent of Butterfly crack in 1857. And Hash bros and Dave Evans, please pen those articles lickity split. Honestly, if I have them in two months I'd be mint. You guys were there in the thick of it and recollections from inside the very tripe, so to speak, are what we all want to hear.

JL
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Oct 30, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
JL,
My vote goes for including the obituary for Yabo. Hands down one of your best pieces and one of the best pieces of climbing-writing around.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 31, 2007 - 02:50am PT
Rick Sylvester reports a Valley FA with Gib Lewis
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1973/usa1973_403-433.pdf#search=%22Gib%20Lewis%22

Fred Beckey reports on ascents he partnered with Phil Warrender and Greg Bender
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1974/141_lower48_aaj1974.pdf

Walter Vennum on Kettle Dome ascent with PW and FB
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1976/us1976_429-461.pdf
(page 445...)

Fred Beckey in Mexico with Greg Bender
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1978/mexico1978_555-556.pdf#search=%22Bender%22

Max Jones, Long, Difficult Free Climbing
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1981/87_jones_free_aaj1981.pdf

in Boulder Canyon, with Eric Eriksson
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1984/161_lower48_aaj1984.pdf#search=%22Eriksson%22

Alan Nelson, The Path of The Master - Tuolumne
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1984/109_nelson_tuolumne_aaj1984.pdf

Joanne Urioste describes Red Rocks, Richard Harrison included
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1986/151_lower48_aaj1986.pdf#search=%22Harrison%22
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 31, 2007 - 02:52am PT
I'll work on Joshua Tree and the Stonemasters... which of the guides has FA and FFA attributions (I only have Vogel's and it omits this info...)

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 31, 2007 - 01:32pm PT
All hail The Great Hartouni!
Thanks Ed, looks like you got a well deserved place in the acknowledgements Bro.

Maybe try the old orange John Wolfe guides for Josh FA attributions?
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Oct 31, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
I have the full set of Mountain, AAJ, Ascent, et al. I'll dig through them this weekend and try and post some references. Also, as a friend/school chum/occasional partner of Yabo I will wrack my brain on printable stories.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Oct 31, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
Ed, the purple cover Vogel guide (and accompanying supplement) were the last with FA and FFA stuff in them. I think the newest guides (of which only one volume is out so far) has the info back in there.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 31, 2007 - 03:47pm PT
These might have some pics or anecdotes:

Kauk Profile (Climbing Mag No 97,p 31)
Bachar Profile (Climbing Mag No 98,p 30)

Just read a profile on Dale Bard last night, can't find it in the index though. It was in either R&I or Climbing, relatively recent (last 15 years or so), written by Crouch. Had a cool pic of his camp in the Buttermilks with a killer crack machine and some other historical photos. I can run down the specifics in the next day or two.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
He wrote: "The reason you can't find much other stuff is because you wrote all that was ever written about them. The stomemasters proper were only Largo, Tobin, Graham, Accomazzo, Harrison and Robs Muir. Every one else came late to the party, even Baccher. Thats a pretty small bunch, maybe you can broaden your scope."

Dood, I never considered that small group to constitute the entire Stonemaster fraternity. My scope is broadened to include anyone active from (roughtly) '71-'76. Whoever was livin' the dream back then was a Stonemaster in my book.

JL
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Nov 1, 2007 - 05:00pm PT
Mom! I'm in!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 2, 2007 - 02:14am PT
Stonemasters in Yosemite 1971-1976

The Amoeba, Left Side 5.8 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Larry Young
Aquarian Wall 5.9 A4 FA 1971 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
Book of Job 5.10b FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Ben Read FFA 1971 Jim Donini Rik Rieder
Cartwheel 5.10a FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Catchy 5.10d FA 1971 Jim Pettigrew Jim Bridwell Mark Klemens
Chicken Pie 5.9 FA 1971 Jerry Coe Rick Sylvester
Chopper 5.10c FA 1971 Mead Hargis Rick Sylvester
Cream 5.11a FA 1971 Mark Klemens
Cristina 5.11b FA 1971 Mead Hargis Dave Davis FFA John Long
Drop-out 5.10a FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Larry Young
Electric Gully 5.7 FA 1971 Jerry Coe Rick Sylvester
Final Exam 5.10d FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Geek Towers, Right Side 5.10a A2 FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Heart Woute (Son of Heart) 5.10 A3+ FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Claude Wreford-Brown
Jam Session 5.10b FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Narrow Escape 5.10c FA 1971 Peter Haan Jim Bridwell Mark Klemens
The Nerf Test 5.8 FA 1971 Phil Gleason Rick Sylvester
New Diversions 5.10a FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Claude Wreford-Brown Jerry Coe
Outer Limits 5.10c FA 1971 Jim Bridwell Jim Orey
Pass or Fail 5.9 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Gib Lewis
Peter Left 5.10c FA 1971 Mead Hargis Kim Schmitz
Public Sanitation 5.10 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Roy Kligfield
Rycrisp 5.7 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Jim Downs
Seedy Leads 5.11a FA 1971 Mark Chapman Rick Sylvester FFA 1988 Clint Cummins Dan Nguyen
The Shaft 5.10d FA 1971 Matt Donohoe George Meyers
Steppin' Out 5.10d FA 1971 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
The Syllable 5.8 FA 1971 Rick Sylvester Sibylle Hetchel
Terminator, Right 5.10d FA 1971 Bruce Brossman Mike Breidenbach
Tinkerbell, Right 5.9 FA 1971 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz
Traffic Jam 5.9 FA 1971 Paul Cowan

North Dome, West Face Route 5.8 FA 1962 Art Gran Steve Roper FFA 1972 Peter Barton Mark Chapman
Lost Brother, Northwest Face 5.7 A2 FA 1963 Al Macdonald Jeff Dozier Dave French Gary Westernof FFA 1972 Barry Bates Rik Rieder
10.96 5.10d FA 1972 Jim Bridwell John Long Mark Klemens
Anchors Away 5.11a FA 1972 Tim Harrison Mike Breidenbach
Bare Necessities 5.10a FA 1972 Mark Chapman Rik Rieder
Base Pinnacle 5.9 FA 1972 Mark Klemens Bruce Pollock
Basket Case 5.11b FA 1972 Jim Donini TM Herbert FFA 1972 Mark Klemens Jim Bridwell
Brush Off 5.9 FA 1972 Ed Barry Mark Chapman
Chain Reaction 5.10c FA 1972 Rik Rieder Mark Chapman Ed Barry Rab Carrington
Cramming 5.10d FA 1972 Steve Wunsch Matt Donohoe George Meyers Jim Donini Rab Carrington
Forbidden Pinnacle 5.10a FA 1972 Mark Klemens Bruce Pollock
General Hospital 5.11c FA 1972 Rik Rieder Phil Gleason Chris Wegener
Isoceles, Left 5.9 FA 1972 Linda Halverson Rick Sylvester
Katchup 5.10a FA 1972 John Long Tony Zeek
The Last Resort Pinnacle, Center 5.10a FA 1972 Barry Bates Rik Rieder
The Last Resort Pinnacle, Left Side 5.9 FA 1972 Rik Rieder Dale Bard
Leanie Meanie 5.11b FA 1972 Jim Donini Rab Carrington Mark Chapman
Lichen Nightmare 5.10a FA 1972 Rik Rieder John Long
Lost on Venus 5.7 FA 1972 Ed Barry Mark Chapman
A Mother's Lament 5.10c FA 1972 Rab Carrington Rik Rieder
Olga's Trick 5.10d FA 1972 Rik Rieder Brian Bennett Bob Ost
Paradise Lost 5.10a FA 1972 Ray Jardine Rik Rieder
Penelope's Problem 5.7 FA 1972 John Long Tony Zeek
Plumkin 5.10a FA 1972 Rik Rieder Doug Scott
Pulpit Pooper 5.10b FA 1972 Jim Orey Jack Roberts

La Escuela 5.11b FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard TM Herbert FFA 1973 Steve Wunsch Mark Chapman
The Good Book (Right Side of the Folly) 5.10d FA1968 Warren Harding Tom Fender FFA 1973 Dale Bard Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall Ron Kauk
Bircheff-Williams 5.11b FA1969 Phil Bircheff Steve Williams FFA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.10d FA 1973 Jim Bridwell Roger Breedlove Ed Barry John Long Billy Westbay Ron Fawcett
Comedy of Folly 5.9 A4 FA 1973 Rik Rieder
The Crucifix 5.12b FA 1973 Jim Bridwell Kevin Worall FFA 1985 Peter Croft
Desperate Straights 5.10a FA 1973 Rick Sylvester Mike Farrell
Eagle 5.10a FA 1973 Ron Kauk George Meyers
Finger Lickin' 5.10d FA 1973 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall
Freewheelin' 5.10b FA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers Roger Breedlove
Fun Flake 5.9 FA 1973 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall
Hotline 5.12a FA 1973 Jim Bridwell Mark Chapman FFA 1975 Ron Kauk John Bachar
Jaw Bone 5.10a FA 1973 Mark Chapman Kevin Worrall
Knob Job 5.10b FA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Monday Morning to Patio 5.10a FA 1973 Mark Chapman Ed Barry
Nurdle 5.8 FA 1973 Bob Ashworth George Meyers
Pandora's Box 5.10a FA 1973 Mark Chapman Kevin Worrall
Quicksilver 5.9 FA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers Vern Clevenger
Seaside 5.10c FA 1973 Kevin Worrall Mike Breidenbach
Sherrie's Crack 5.10c FA 1973 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Smoky Pillar 5.10b FA 1973 Jim Bridwell George Meyers Vern Clevenger Larry Bruce
Stoner's Highway 5.10c FA 1973 Kevin Fosburg John Long Ed Barry Peter Barton Vern Clevenger
Straight Error 5.10c FA 1973 Mark Chapman Jim Bridwell

Rixon's Pinnacle, South Face 5.11d FA 1948 Chuck Wilts Ellen Wilts FFA 1974 Tobin Sorenson John Bachar
The Fin 5.11c FA 1961 Les Wilson Glen Denny FFA 1974 John Long Jay WIlson
Slab Happy Pinnacle, Center 5.10d FA 1961 Royal Robbins Tom Frost Harry Daley FFA 1974 Vern Clevenger George Meyers Tom Carter
The Calf 5.11c FA 1963 Joe McKeown Jim Harper FFA 1974 John Long
Book of Revelations 5.11a FA 1965 Gordon Webster Chuck Ostin FFA 1974 Bob Finn Chris Falkenstein
Crack-a-Go-Go 5.11c FA 1967 Harvey Carter Pete Pederson FFA 1974 Pete Livesey Ron Fawcett
Anticipation 5.11b FA 1974 Mark Chapman John Donini
Black Primo 5.11b FA 1974 Kevin Worrall John Long George Meyers
Black Rose 5.11b FA 1974 Kevin Worrall John Long George Meyers
Eagle Feather 5.10c FA 1974 John Long Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall
Eagle Roof A1 FA 1974 Dave Diegleman Bill Price Augie Klein
False Verde 5.9 FA 1974 Bob Finn Don Reid
Freestone (Geek Towers, Left Side) 5.11c FA 1974 Jim Bridwell Ron Kauk Dale Bard
Gang Bang 5.10a FA 1974 Paul Cowan Ray Jardine
Gillette 5.10 FA 1974 Pete Livesey Ron Fawcett
Greasy but Groovy 5.10d FA 1974 John Long Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Hairline 5.11b FA 1974 Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall Dale Bard George Meyers
The Hand Me Down 5.10a FA 1974 Mark Chapman Jim Donini
Hoppy's Favorite Direct 5.10a FA 1974 Mike Breidenbach Bruce Hawkins
Jungle Book 5.9+ FA 1974 Ron Kauk Jim Pettigrew
Ladyfingers 5.11a FA 1974 John Long Mike Graham
Little Wing 5.10d FA 1974 Mark Chapman Charlie Porter Bruce Pollock
The Mark of Art 5.10d FA 1974 Mark Chapman Art Higbee
Mouth to Perhaps 5.11b FA 1974 Rick Accomazzo Mike Breidenbach
Pee Pee Pillar 5.10a FA 1974 Peter Barton Eric Schoen George Meyers Bob Ashworth
Per-Spire-ation 5.10b FA 1974 Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman Matt Pollock Bruce Pollock
Picnic 5.10a FA 1974 Peter Barton Eric Schoen George Meyers
Plumb Line 5.10d FA 1974 Dale Bard Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall
The Reception 5.10a FA 1974 Mike Breidenbach Mike Farrell
The Riddler 5.10a FA 1974 Bruce Pollock Matt Pollock Mark Chapman Charlie Porter
Rock Bottom 5.11d FA 1974 Kevin Worrall George Meyers FFA 1980 John Long
Shake, Rattle and Drop 5.10b FA 1974 Rick Sylvester Chris Hassig Alex Behr
Short but Thin 5.11b FA 1974 Tobin Sorenson John Bachar
Solo Crack 5.9 FA 1974 Don Reid
Trial by Fire 5.8 FA 1974 Chris Falkenstein Don Reid
The Tube 5.11a FA 1974 Jim Bridwell Kevin Worrall Dale Bard George Meyers
Ugly Duckling 5.10c FA 1974 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Wild Turkey 5.10c FA 1974 Dale Bard Ron Kauk

Astroman 5.11c FA 1959 Warren Harding Glen Denny Chuck Pratt FFA 1975 John Bachar John Long Ron Kauk
The Cobra 5.11a FA 1966 Mark Powell Bob Kamps FFA 1975 Tobin Sorenson Tim Sorenson
Birds of a Feather 5.7 FA 1975 Kevin Worrall Jane Wituchki
Blind Faith 5.11d FA 1975 Dale Bard Ron Kauk
The Dove 5.8 FA 1975 Kevin Worrall Jane Witucki
Dynamo Hum 5.11d FA 1975 Tobin Sorenson John Long
Easy Wind 5.9 FA 1975 Kevin Worrall Billy Westbay
Electric Ladyland 5.10a A4 FA 1975 Gib Lewis Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Euellogy 5.10a FA 1975 Bruce Hawkins Mike Breidenbach Bruce Brossman
Figment 5.8 FA 1975 Mike Breidenbach Bruce Hawkins
Flake Off FA 1975 Bruce Pollock Jim Bridwell Jim Pettigrew Mark Klemens
Free Blast 5.11b FA 1975 Jim Bridwell John Long Kevin Worrall Mike Graham John Bachar Ron Kauk
Grape Nuts 5.9 FA 1975 Mike Breidenbach Bruce Hawkins
Hardd 5.11b FA 1975 Henry Barber Ron Kauk Steve Wunsch
Inch and a Quarter Blues 5.11a FA 1975 Dale Bard Kevin Worrall
Jesu Joy 5.10c FA 1975 Ray Jardine Rick Sylvester
Kauk-ulator 5.11c FA 1975 Ron Kauk John Yablonsky
Keystone Corner 5.8 FA 1975 Don Reid Jay Fiske
Mother Earth 5.11c A4 FA 1975 George Meyers John Long Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman Ron Kauk
On the Edge 5.11b FA 1975 Dale Bard George Meyers
Orange Juice Avenue 5.10a FA 1975 Chris Falkenstein Don Reid
Orange Peel 5.11b FA 1975 George Meyers Bruce Hawkins
Pacific Ocean Wall 5.9 A3 FA 1975 Jim Bridwell Billy Westbay Jay Fiske Fred East
Pinky Paralysis 5.11c FA 1975 John Bachar Jim Bridwell
Preface 5.11b FA 1975 John Bachar Tobin Sorenson
Ramblin' Rose 5.10 FA 1975 Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman
Realm of the Lizard King 5.11c FA 1975 Kevin Worrall John Yablonski
Short but Thick 5.11a FA 1975 Kevin Worrall John Bachar Ed Barry
Side Kick 5.9 FA 1975 Chris Falkenstein Don Reid TM Herbert
Tail End 5.6 FA 1975 George Meyers
Tips 5.12a FA 1975 John Bachar Ron Kauk 1985 Jonny Woodward Ron Kauk
Windjammer 5.10c FA 1975 Mark Chapman Kevin Worrall

Brass Knuckles 5.11d FA 1976 Kevin Worrall Mark Chapman
Phantom Pinnacle, Left Side (Regular Route) 5.9 FA 1950 Bill Dunmire Joe Faint FFA 1976 Mike Graham Roger Breedlove Jim Bridwell
Half Dome, Regular Northwest Face 5.9 C1 FA 1957 Royal Robbins Jerry Gallwas Mike Sherrick FFA 1976 Jim Erickson Art Higbee
Chouinard-Herbert 5.11c FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard TM Herbert FFA 1976 John Long Pete Minks Eric Erickson
Breezin' 5.10a FA 1976 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall
Castaways 5.10c FA 1976 Mark Chapman Kevin Worall
Eagle's Way 5.8 A3 FA 1976 Mark Chapman Mike Graham Jim Orey
Gait of Power 5.11d FA 1976 Ron Kauk John Bachar
Jigsaw 5.11a FA 1976 Kevin Worrall George Meyers Mark Chapman
Knob Hill unnamed 5.9 FA 1976 Kevin Worrall George Meyers
Leisure Time 5.10b FA 1976 George Meyers Bob Ashworth Mike Breidenbach
Mirage 5.9 A4 FA 1976 Jim Bridwell Kim Schmitz Jim Pettigrew
The Mouse King 5.9 FA 1976 George Meyers
Overdrive 5.11a FA 1976 Dale Bard Ron Kauk Nic Taylor George Meyers
Shake and Bake 5.10a FA 1976 Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Sky 5.11c FA 1976 Dale Bard Ron Kauk
Space Babble 5.11a FA 1976 Ron Kauk Kevin Worrall
Spooky Tooth 5.10a FA 1976 John Yablonski Fred East Richard Harrison
Starfire 5.10 FA 1976 Rick Accomazzo Richard Harrison
Taboo Treat 5.9 FA 1976 Don Reid Bob Bartlett
Windfall 5.11a FA 1976 Mark Chapman Kevin Worrall
survival

Big Wall climber
arlington, va
Nov 2, 2007 - 08:39am PT
Largo, I had to say hello.....I just discovered compooterz.
This is Bruce Birchell. The Oregon Bong Team still lives, and I still climb with a couple of those guys!
I have a great unwritten short story about Yabo returning some equipment to me that had absolutely nothing to do with the equipment that I loaned him! "Hey man, heh..heh..it was kinda close to this wasn't it? heh..heh.."
Oh well, at least I got some gear back.
This forum is a great thing, I guess I'll keep this here newfangled 'lectric picture radio. Makes one realize how many loops there are in the great cozmic daisy chain.....
Can't wait for the book man.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 4, 2007 - 01:02am PT
Largo- There is Stonemaster news bits in Mountain 30, 32, 39, 45, 51, 53, 56 and 58. Do you have this stuff? Contact me and I will get it to you.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 10, 2007 - 01:23am PT
the copy of the 1979 A Climber's Guide to Joshua Tree National Monument by John Wolfe and Bob Dominick arrived today... what a wonderful guide book! and it retained it's map in the back inside cover sleeve too...

Here is the "Stonemaster" oeuvre for 1971-1977

Fractured Fissure A2, F6 1971, John Long, Brian Pohorff
Lazy Day F7 1971, Jim Wilson , Mike Kaeser, Phil Warrender
Raven's Reach A2, F5 1971, John Long, Larry Brown
Straight Flush F8 1971, Joe Herbst, John Long
The Flake F8 1971, Jim Wilson , Dick Shockley

Billabong F11 1972, John Long, Bill Antel, Rick Accomazzo,
Candelabra F10 1972, John Bachar, Oliver Moon
Comic Book F9 1972, Richard Harrison, John Long, Don Watson, Rick Accomazzo
Half Track F9 1972, John Long, Royd Riggins
Hands Off F8 1972, John Long, Brian Pohorff
Judas F10 1972, John Long, Oliver Moon
Jumping Jack Crack F11 1972, John Long, Oliver Moon
North Overhang F9 1972, John Long, Rick Accomazzo
Right Ski Track Direct F10 1972, John Long, Oliver Moon
Skinny Dip F7 1972, John Long, Phil Warrender
Strawberry Jam F9 1972, John Long
Tennis Shoe Crack F8 1972, John Long

Are You Experienced? F10, A4 1973, John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison
Bearded Cabbage F11 1973, John Long, Richard Harrison
Beginner's Twenty-Six F11 1973, John Long, Rick Accomazzo, John Mokri
Bongledesch F10 1973, John Long, Terry Goodykoontz
Butterfly F12 1973, John Bald, John Long
Dandelion F10 1973, John Long, Richard Harrison, Kevin Worrall, Bill Antel, Rick Accomazzo, John Bald, America Pizzo
Dappled Mare F8 1973, John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison
Fisticuffs F10 1973, John Long, Rick Accomazzo
Grit Roof F11 1973, Tobin Sorenson, Rick Accomazzo, Jim Wilson
Hot Rocks A4, F8 1973, John Long, Richard Harrison, Ging Gingrich
Kung Fu F7 1973, John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison
Left Sawdust Crack F11 1973, John Long
Left Ski Track Direct F12 1973, John Long, John Bachar
Middle Band F11 1973, Bill Antel, Kim Cooper
Right Sawdust Crack F9 1973, John Long
T. S. Special F8 1973, Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo, Tobin Sorenson, Pete Wilkening, Jim Wilson
Tumbling Rainbow F9 1973, John Long, Richard Harrison, Rick Accomazzo, Ging Gingrich
Zigzag Chimney F7 1973, Steven Eddy, Robs Muir

Alice in Wonderjam F9 1974, Dick Shockley, Pete Wilkening, Jim Wilson
Bird of Fire F10 1974, John Long, Ray Ochoa
Diamond Dogs F10 1974, Jim Wilson , Gibb Lewis
Dolphin F7 1974, John Long
Energy Crisis F8 1974, Bullwinkle, Guy Keesee, Mike Pope
Exorcist F10 1974, Tobin Sorenson, Dick Shockley, Jim Wilson, Bullwinkle
Funky Dung F8 1974, John Long, Kevin Worrall
Gem F8 1974, John Bald, Hugh Burton, John Long
Grounder F9 1974, Mike Jaffe, John Bald, Bill Heiman
Harlequin F11 1974, Jim Wilson , Tobin Sorenson
Hour of Power F10 1974, Matt Cox, John Bald
It F8 1974, Dick Shockley, Tobin Sorenson, Jim Wilson
La Reina F9 1974, John Long, John Wolfe
Loony Toons F9 1974, Tobin Sorenson, John Long, Eric Erickson
Moubit F10 1974, Mike Jaffe, John Bald
Rites of Spring F9 1974, John Long, Mike Jaffe
Sidewinder F9 1974, Kevin Worrall, Eric Schone
That F11 1974, Mike Graham, John Bachar
True Dice F8 1974, John Bald
Vortex F12 1974, John Long, Tobin Sorenson, Jack Roberts,
White Rabbit F10 1974, Pete Wilkening, Dick Shockley, Chris Wegener, P. Stears
Zamrog the Dragon Man F10 1974, Jim Wilson , Bill Squires
Tobin Bias F6 1974 , Fish, Bullwinkle

Ballet F9 1975, Tobin Sorenson, Gibb Lewis
Colorado Crack F9 1975, Billy Westbay, John Long, Hugh Burton,
Deep Throat F9 1975, John Bachar, Tobin Sorenson, Bill Antel, Craig Parsley
Drano F10 1975, Jon Lonne, Dave Olsen
Flue Right F10 1975, Gibb Lewis, Tobin Sorenson
Hobbit Roof F10 1975, John Long
Loose Lips A2, F7 1975, Tobin Sorenson, Gibb Lewis, Bullwinkle
Lost Lid A4, F9 1975, Hugh Burton, John Long, Fred East, Billy Westbay,
O'Kelley's Crack F11 1975, Tobin Sorenson, Jim Wilson, Bullwinkle, Gary Ayres
Spiderman F10 1975, John Long, John Bachar
Super Roof F9 1975, Dave Olsen, Jon Lonne, Martin McBirney
Wangerbanger F12 1975, Tobin Sorenson
Watanabe Wall F10 1975, Tobin Sorenson, Jim Wilson, Guy Keesee

Axe of Dog F10 1976, Dan Ahlborn, Dave Evans, Randy Vogel, Kevin Powell, Tim Powell
Baby Route F9 1976, Mingo Morvin, Bill Antel
Dilly Bar F6 1976, Tim Powell
Doing That Scrapyard Thing F10 1976, Tim Powell, Dan Ahlborn
Double Dogleg F7 1976, Kevin Powell, Dan Ahlborn, Tim Powell
Epicopalian Toothpick F11 1976, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison
Hands Down F12 1976, John Bachar
Hercules F13 1976, John Long
Left Banana Crack F11 1976, Jon Lonne, Dave Olsen, Martin McBirney
Mr. Misty Kiss F7 1976, Dan Ahlborn, Tim Powell
My Laundry F8 1976, Jim Wilson , Herb Laeger
Pope's Hat F9 1976, John Long
Scrumpdillyishus F7 1976, Tim Powell, Dan Ahlborn
Squatter's Right F12 1976, Jon Lonne, Dave Olsen
Sympathy to the Devil F10 1976, John Bachar
Tax Man F10 1976, Tim Powell, Dan Ahlborn,
The S Cracks Left F7 1976, Dave Olsen, Jon Lonne
The S Cracks Middle F12 1976, Dave Olsen, Jon Lonne
The S Cracks Right F8 1976, Dave Olsen, Jon Lonne
Right Banana Crack F12 1976 , Jon Lonne, Dave Olsen, Martin McBirney

Ace of Spades F9 1977, Mike Lechlinski, John Long, Craig Fry
Baskerville Crack Left F11 1977, John Long, Dan Dingle,
Baskerville Crack Right F10 1977, John Long, Janet Wilts
Card Chimney F6 1977, John Long, Janet Wilts
Desert Song F12 1977, John Bachar
Goldenbush Corner F12 1977, John Bachar
Imaginary Voyage F11 1977, John Long, Richard Harrison
Jack of Hearts F9 1977, John Long, Janet Wilts
Jumping Jehosaphat F7 1977, Tim Powell, Dan Ahlborn
Make or Break Flake F10 1977, Craig Fry, Randy Vogel, John Long, Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery
Overseer F9 1977, Dan Ahlborn, Tim Powell
Popular Mechanics F9 1977, Mari Gingery, Mike Lechlinski, John Long
Solid Gold F10 1977, Herb Laeger, Jon Lonne, Jim Wilson, Mike Jaffe,
Tossed Green F10 1977, John Long, Randy Vogel, Mike Lechlinski, Craig Fry, Mari Gingery
White Powder F7 1977, Janet Wilts, John Long
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Nov 10, 2007 - 03:26pm PT
What I want- and I better get it- is to hear stories about Charlie Porter. I would also dig to hear about the FA of Quicksilver
murf
thetennisguy

Gym climber
Yuba City, CA
Nov 24, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
Ed,

Thanks for posting the information from the American Aline Journal on Tobin Sorenson. I was introduced to his name during a memorial service of sorts during a chapel service in 1981 at Biola College. His girl friend (perhaps fiance) was recounting some of his accomplishments. I can remember her telling about his climbing feats as noted in the articles you posted here. I still feel that sadness and loss.

I recall her telling about him climbing the Matterhorn in the dead of winter solo. They mentioned that he only used rope in the worst situations and that he had rope deployed when they found him in Canada.

It was said that he could do a pull up with one finger on either hand, and that he could climb the sides of the buildings on campus easily. His exploits even at school were legendary but I started school there right after his death in Canada. I've never seen him or met him unfortunately.

I've always wanted to know more about him because he was an extraordinary person by all accounts making extraordinary accomplishments at such a young age.

From your posting of his book review in the journal, I can see that he was an extremely articulate, intelligent guy.

Everytime I go to the climbing gym I think about him, his deep and abiding faith in Christ, and that day in the chapel service.

Thanks for sharing this about Tobin Sorenson. It's really helped me understand and appreciate his special gifts, talents and the grace God gave him during his lifetime here.

Warmest regards,

Tom W.
DUUUUDE

climber
Nov 29, 2007 - 11:16pm PT
Pictures and story of the first ascent of "Flying Circus" at Tahquitz.

Those pictures, and that story inspired me to start climbing... 17 years ago... gulp... geezzzzzzz
TripleS_in_EBs

Trad climber
Poulsbo, WA
Nov 30, 2007 - 01:14am PT
John, I'd say your account of the free attempt on Green Arch with Tobin and company is one of those yarns that really captures the spirit and sometimes downright craziness that occur in rock climbing. It should go in verbatim. Also your Nose in a Day short piece that's been published elsewhere a few times absolutely has gotta be there.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Nov 30, 2007 - 09:47am PT
Largo,
A couple of suggestions:
Get Richard Harrison to write something up about the El Cap of Cucamonga.

Have Robs Muir get something down on paper about Oliver Moon, Roubidoux, and Mt. Baldy traverses of the Elk Horn Lodge bridge.


Maybe have a retrospective set of images covering the different iterations of JT, Taquitz, and Valley guide books.

Reprint 'Team Machine' by Bill Westbay.

Photos that would rock:

*Yabo on Planet X (in Mari's JT bouldering guide)
*Yaniro on Janus (from the Wolfe guide)
*Early Insomnia and Valhalla shots
*The many incarnations of the Boom Boom Room

Somewhere out there the man who ran Pack and Piton (Lilegard?) might be able to be tracked down. He'd probably have some recollections of what you guys were doing, only from a unique outsider/insider perspective.
Anyhow, good luck.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 30, 2007 - 11:38am PT
great suggestions everyone, John is the "great attractor" of the Stonemaster's galaxy but he probably has so much to do that not all the good ideas are going to be included unless we can do a bunch of the leg work for him...

...so really, if we can get the material to John he can work some editorial magic and assemble it in a way fitting for the memory of those times. What I remember and what has been discussed here time and again, was the true collectiveness of action by all the people involved in whatever was going down at that moment.

So it should be here too!

Janet Wilts

Trad climber
Moose
Nov 30, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
Wow, Lots of names from the past....
If I only had kept writings (drafts) from certain people....that would be fun to post...

Jw
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 30, 2007 - 03:50pm PT
certainly, Janet, you aren't going to let lack of documentation limit the stories you could tell!

Belated welcome to SuperTopo!
SamRoberts

climber
Bay Area
Nov 30, 2007 - 04:34pm PT
Hi Janet
This is from about 15 years ago in Josh with Al Bartlet.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 1, 2007 - 12:18am PT
Janet Wilts

Trad climber
Moose
Dec 1, 2007 - 10:50am PT
Where did you ever get that picture....
well, I'll try to think up some stories about jl...

Janet
DHike

climber
Dec 1, 2007 - 12:39pm PT
The Original Stonemasters;-)




I think that 1st photo was before a NID attempt.
Kathy D.

Trad climber
San Francisco
Dec 4, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
Hi John, It's Cath C. that you'll be wanting to talk to about possible Stonemaster pic's, she snapped the Valley throughout her stay. Kathy D.
The Wolf

Trad climber
East SF Bay Area
Dec 8, 2007 - 10:27pm PT
JL,
I have an issue of CLIMBING Magazine Number 64. Jan-Feb 1981 It has an Obituary and Interview with Tobin Sorensen. Not sure it would be helpful to your project, but I can pass it along if you like.
Oddchick? Wingnut? Strangechick? Freakazoid?

Trad climber
Pollack Pines
Dec 17, 2007 - 06:53pm PT
Very cooooool thread!
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Dec 25, 2007 - 04:36pm PT
Rock & Ice number 46 Nov/Dec 91
"Largo's Apprenticeship" by Jim Bridwell
"Back Then" by John Long
"Playing the Game: A Conversation with Ron Kauk" By Nacny Pritchard
"Hanging out With my Buddy Ron" by Jerry Moffatt
"Death Valley Days" by Russ Walling
"Yabo" by Jean Milgrim
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Jun 3, 2008 - 10:14pm PT
This looks like climbing!
tage

Trad climber
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
Jul 21, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
Only being an average climber living in the Valley in the 70's. But I knew of the "Stonemasters". I went on to follow my own alpine dreams and was blown away with Tobins death on his 2nd ascent attmept of the North Face of Alberta. A very bold attempt for that time!!

I am an adventure sports film maker and have often even prior to JB's terrible passing thought of making some type of film or television special on the many storied indivuals of what has become some of my most special days of climbing. If someone close to the Stonemaster project would like to contact me I would enjoy seeing what we might be able to put together. Kirk Montgomery 808 640-0608
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 21, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
Cool shots of Ed H and Clark Jacobs, bitd...
tage

Trad climber
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
Jul 21, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
Only being an average climber living in the Valley in the 70's. But I knew of the "Stonemasters". I went on to follow my own alpine dreams and was blown away with Tobins death on his 2nd ascent attmept of the North Face of Alberta. A very bold attempt for that time!!

I am an adventure sports film maker and have often even prior to JB's terrible passing thought of making some type of film or television special on the many storied indivuals of what has become some of my most special days of climbing. If someone close to the Stonemaster project would like to contact me I would enjoy seeing what we might be able to put together. Kirk Montgomery 808 640-0608
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Nov 5, 2012 - 11:29pm PT
bomp
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