Left Side of the Remnant

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Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 18, 2007 - 01:16pm PT
It's not Reed's season yet either (I hope).

(I mean...I always end up sort of tired of Reed's and am longing for the longer routes in the Valley by the time the spring rolls around, so I try not to go there while the Valley is still nice.)
Alex Perry

Trad climber
California
Oct 19, 2007 - 02:39am PT
sheeesh, Melissa. Pat visits a thread about manteling, with some photos, with people looking mostly as though they are actually face climbing and, like, reaching with a hand to the top, and astutely he observes that they don't quite look like the photos are showing mantel problems, a harmless observation that meant no harm. Then everyone else goes off on what a mantel problem is. Then more jump in with arguments about what a proper mantel topout is, and eventually some get offended apparently by this or that, which he had nothing to do with, and heap everything they feel on Pat, who didn't even return to that thread, if I remember. Anyway as Rich Goldstone said, Ament was just about the best at manteling in his day and made an art of it, so he might know what he was talking about, maybe. But you have a memory like an elephant to bring in that old junk that doesn't have anything to do with the Remnant. Maybe I mis-read your intent. Sorry if so. But seems a silly comment.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 19, 2007 - 09:34pm PT
I just saw this...and Alex, I half no idea what have of your post even means. I was just playing off of Sewell's quote in the post above mine, and in that way, my comment seemed on topic enough.

I was recalling a discussion (that may or may not have involved Pat...I don't remember) where I asked why a mantel top out was considered more aesthetic, and Russ made a good-natured joke describing why that involved lighting small cities with the energy released from the butt clench required. I laughed at the visual then and when I've thought of it since. Ha, ha.

I'm sorry to disturb this very serious thread about the Right Side of the Remant (that seemed to be largely about other climbs anyway) with a joke. (Actually, I'm not.) But I honestly wasn't trying to take a swipe at Pat.

Those inspired by the heroic remembrances here who go to try their mettle on this 60? foot testpeice might appreciate my beta though...It tends to be very wet in the winter.
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Oct 19, 2007 - 09:42pm PT
funny Melissa.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Oct 19, 2007 - 09:43pm PT
That was a very weird post, alex. Please-ad... I mean, elucidate.


ps I led it in the fall, possiblly right now, in another year. With Josh Moore, still nobody knows of his current whereabouts?
scuffy b

climber
The deck above the 5
Oct 19, 2007 - 09:47pm PT
I think it got started by a video posted by Commodious,
folks were making fun of the climber for tossing a foot up to
the top before pressing out a mantel.

Melissa, thanks for the beta, I hope I make use of it.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 19, 2007 - 09:55pm PT
I hope you send in any weather Scuffy. :-)

The Left Side is of Reeds tends to be drier, and I've been told that you can tunnel past the crux too. Bridwell's account of the same story posted upthread is great too.

It was one of the first routes that my bf took me on to teach me how to climb ow's, and as I grunted up to the crux he quoted the story:

"Just then I took pity and divulged the secret rest hold he hadn't seen behind his back. John's hand shot to it like a chameleon's tongue,"

to see if I would do dart for it like a chameleon tongue too. I did. And then I fell.
atchafalaya

climber
California
Oct 19, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
Pat, glad to see you are still posting!

WBraun

climber
Oct 19, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
You guys missed inchworm

Move left, move left some more past Chingondo (how u spell this thing?)

Then came inchworm .......
scuffy b

climber
The deck above the 5
Oct 19, 2007 - 10:48pm PT
That's quite a ways left of Chingando, then.
I've been to Arch this century, Joe. I'm so embarrassed.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 19, 2007 - 10:52pm PT
actually Melissa, it's about the Left Side of the Remnant, but mostly other climbs (at least that you can see from the Remnant).

We'll be up there again this weekend on Sunday... a meeting of the VMC, Vicarious Mountain Club...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 19, 2007 - 11:25pm PT
Sorry, Ed. The Right Side was my own learn-to-chimney proj. for a while. It must be etched in my brain. It's almost always dry.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Oct 20, 2007 - 12:05am PT
Roy asked if I was there with him on the Left Side ascent.....

Roy floated it like he usually did. Power, grace, and polished aplomb while pushing a big cam. Keith Guy and Bill Russell both failed on it miserably, even with giant tape jobs and pulling on pro. I took some pointers from Roy and told him to pull the cord out of the way, and then I soloed it in Huraches with no chalk. Ho-man... casual.

















(um.... in reality, it is marked off in my yellow Myers guide, but there is no more information. Looks like something we would do together, but I have ZERO recollection of the route.)
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Oct 20, 2007 - 02:18am PT
Interesting stuff about the Left Side of the Remnant. Yes I believe I did the first free ascent, in 1967, although I was trying to be honest and mentioned my struggle to keep my finger from touching the piton I placed without thinking at the 5.7 top step. So the first ascent is credited to my old pal Royal, strangely. Tar was "pushing a cam?" Does that mean good protection all the way up? Does the cam work on the undercling too? Roy, it almost sounds as though you had only one piece of protection you kept using over and over, sliding it up?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 20, 2007 - 10:47am PT
Hi Pat,

I was hoping Russ would remember more about the LS Remnant than I.

Not to say it isn't a memorable route; as I recall it looked pretty burly. It was the idea of my buddies to do it and why the lead fell to me I can't recall either, so sometimes that influences memory. I think I was ripped on weed too, or at least really pumped up on adrenaline or both.

Vaguely: I had 2 big cams, but as I laybacked the bottom pretty much to the undercling, where I may have swung in to collect myself, I don't think I pushed any cams. At that time, I was mostly doing OW with arm bars, not stacks, so I wasn't comfortable pushing cams anyhow, as an MO.

I remember just blasting the layback mostly unprotected, placing a cam in it somewhere pretty high but at the right time to keep my head cool, then one more for the undercling, I think below the initial apex; so I had good gear where I needed it and I think they were pretty close to each other, just below the undercling.

Even more disconcerting to enlivened reportage is the fact that I have zero recall of the finger lock section, but that probably fell to a more era familiar engagement with thin cracks and small cams.

For me, the feel of the effort is very strong, much more so than the detail. And that feel was of a stimulating, steady go for it, intimidating and burly line.

Good stuff that Left Side Remnant!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Oct 20, 2007 - 11:15am PT
Hey Jay,

I can get contact info for Josh Moore, assuming it is the same one. His brother lives down the street.

Ken
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Oct 20, 2007 - 12:07pm PT
Ken, yeah, same guy (probably) we stayed with his brother when we did the remnant. Then on the second day, sunday his bro joined us for a leisurely jaunt up Harry Daley.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Oct 20, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
Jay, I just sent you an email with his number.

Ken
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Oct 20, 2007 - 02:07pm PT
Thanks, Ken! Good vibes to the power of the taco, and those that spend time within.
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Oct 20, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
Roy,
I was deep in that initial crack, as I recall. Isn't that a chimney or offwidth? Larry wasn't very good at chimneys or offwidth and was having trouble, I remember.

You wouldn't remember that top move, because it was so easy compared to everything below. That was the silly thing about it all, that I was solid all the way below and then slammed in a piton there in the finger hole one step from the bucket at the top. It seemed the right thing to do at the moment to let Dalke hammer it out, rather than take it out just so I could have that hold. I did not anticipate anyone would care if my fingers were on either side of the piton. I didn't imagine some bearded guy would claim the first free ascent later. That Robbins guy, you just can always trust him to try to find a way to outdo you (even though he and Price were hanging around a bit below, where I didn't). I jest, of course, because Royal is my friend, and really who cares now so far away from those peculiar days.

I actually did another route somewhere around there. I can't even remember exactly, but it seems it might have been at the bottom of the actual Reed Pinnacle part. I get confused, because it's been so long ago, but isn't there a little pinnacle down there along the bottom of Reed's somewhere called the Cookie that is different than the other Cookie formation that is lower down in the Valley and has Twilight Zone? Anyway, if I recall, this little route I'm talking about is on the Reed's Pinnacle wall. It is a short route at the bottom I did one day that seemed hard 5.11. I couldn't do it in climbing shoes but found I could do it in my Hush-Puppies, because they had such good smearing. It was a seam you couldn't get fingers into, and I had to lieback to the left, with my feet on slippery granite to the right. I don't remember what I named it, or if I finally ever did. I had been thinking about a name and then got distracted probably and forgot all about it. The route wasn't more than about 30 feet long.
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