11.a Yosemite cracks

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Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 9, 2007 - 03:37pm PT
I found very interesting recent tread about 5.10d cracks ( most of them in Yosemite park )
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=442592&tn=0&mr=0
It is like sitting at campfire and listening clibmbing stories.
Would you like to share your memory and impression about stelar Yosemitie 11.a cracks?
Not much from me, but
Hardd (pithch1)
Tideline in TM

I did not climbed "Overdrive", but it looks attractive from Reid book description: 10 feet hands roof
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 9, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
New D.
Dagger
Tube
The alternate p1 to Beggar's B. (name?)

Most seem to go from 10d to something much harder. :-(
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Oct 9, 2007 - 03:47pm PT
Wack and Dangle: easy, sort of..... traversing underclingy for a move or two. Cool.

Butterfingers: seems pretty hard to me. Butterballs might be easier!

Overdrive: way cool, exposed, not too bad. Turn the lip and you are almost done, if you don't freak out. Bring a solid second, or she might be doing the James Bond shoestring prussik routine after pitching out of the roof.

Cream: one patella jam and you are golden. Easier than the Zone, Steppin Out and some others that are rated easier.

Controlled Burn: tree at start is gone! Opening moves are now PDH, the rest is good and gets a bit wide about half way up, but undercling it and you just might get to the anchor bolts.

Catchy Corner: soft for the grade? Grease is a factor.

Enema: 11b, but if you squint it is just like 11a, only a bit harder.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2007 - 04:00pm PT
Melissa wrote: The alternate p1 to Beggar's B. (name?)
Tilbit?

Dagger - is it feel like 11.a? It rated 10d by Russ at mountainproject.com
wildone

climber
Where you want to be
Oct 9, 2007 - 04:30pm PT
Oh Man! I loved tideline! Big props to Yerian and Mary Braun!
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Oct 9, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
"Controlled Burn: tree at start is gone! Opening moves are now PDH, the rest is good and gets a bit wide about half way up, but undercling it and you just might get to the anchor bolts."

There is a log leaned against the wall folks are using to start this now (I'm sure Russ knows this already). It seemed that the start from the top of the log is height dependent. I was able to reach up to a better starting jam than my partner and walked my feet up, then reached a bit higher to a great jam to get my feet in the crack. Wasn't too bad for a 6' tall guy.

Russ is right about underclinging too, for sure.

"Dagger" - this is up next to "10 Years After", in the amphitheater, Mel?
lucho

Gym climber
San Franpsycho
Oct 9, 2007 - 04:58pm PT
Windfall 11a
nate

Trad climber
virginia
Oct 9, 2007 - 05:09pm PT
Bircheff-Williams

pitch 27? on the nose

waverly wafer (11a?)

Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 9, 2007 - 06:07pm PT
The Dagger is to the left of the popular 5.8 hand crack and 10a thin cracks on the eponymous formation. I think it's Russ' FA, but the Reid guide calls it 11a. Pick your favorite #. Similar in spirit to many of the 11a's and 10d's listed. I saw a guy whip on it last weekend while walking by and my bf quipped about trying not to whip on small formations where you can see daylight on the other side. ;-)

Tidbit was the one I was thinking of. V. nice!
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Oct 9, 2007 - 06:12pm PT
Dagger: Industry standard for 10+

How about Rock Bottom or Christina on the C4 Wall? I'm fuzzy on the details. Tree start? Dirty? Wide?
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 9, 2007 - 06:37pm PT
Overdrive? I totally forgot about that one. Always wanted to do it, never have.

I followed the second real pitch (11a)on South by Southwest on lower spire. Steep hands in a corner. I remember looking at it wondering what was so hard about it since it was hands, but for some reason its hard. Sweet pitch though and follows a classic 10d.
doughnutnational

Gym climber
hell
Oct 9, 2007 - 11:12pm PT
Knuckle buster is a great thin crack with a long approach.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Oct 10, 2007 - 01:04pm PT
Funny, there's not a set of single-pitch .11a cracks in Yosemite like there are .10d cracks.

Check out Childhood's End for some fun (I think it's out of the rock-fall zone!).

Tidbit is good, although a bit soft me thinks.

Anybody done the 3* ShortCake, it's rated .11b, but I've heard it's a stiffy.

Or how about Soul Sacrifice, certainly hard for .11a ...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 10, 2007 - 01:12pm PT
"...although a bit soft me thinks."

That's probably why 10d covers everything from Serenity to Steppin' Out and the next big cluster of classic climbs is around 11c. ;-)
WBraun

climber
Oct 10, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
Soul Sacrifice is not rate 11a

There must be typo somewhere ........
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2007 - 02:32pm PT
Soul Sacrifice rated 11.c in Reid book.
I followed once Butterfingers and found them also very hard for the grade. How about Ladyfingers (right-side start from Monkey island) next to it?
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Oct 10, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
A few notes:

Catchy Corner- standard 11a for Yos.
Soul Sacrifice - is 11c, not 11a
South By Southwest- easy for 11a. I thought the crux pitch was only 10c & the pitch preceeding it was a bit harder though still 10d
Knucklebuster- a bit of a hike but good
Haard first pitch- hands to a leaning thin crack
Book of Revelations 2nd pitch
Childhoods End is burly and might be 5.11b
Overdrive is excellent! cool hands out a roof to a thin hands crux, uncrowded & shady.
Fatal Mistake - hard to get to but looks good!!
Megaforce- this Reed Bros. route may be more like 5.11c but is excellent and clean! I wish more pitches were like this one!
Texas Chainsaw Massacre - grass filled, low angle, not recommended!
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Oct 10, 2007 - 03:03pm PT
Childhoods End: Industry standard for 10d

Cromagnon Capers: Nice 11a.... overated at 11b. Roadside. wide at the start to a thin crack top out.
scooter

climber
Moss Landing CA
Oct 10, 2007 - 03:45pm PT
Funny how pitches of the same grade can feel night and day diferent. For example, South By South West 2nd pitch VS Bircheif-Willams 1st pitch. I think someone once said "wow, that was easy" about S by SW. Another wise man once said. "holy crap, that was hard" About B-W. Though both are .11a.

P-Dub

aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Oct 10, 2007 - 08:04pm PT
Black Angel

Handbook

Arches Terrace Direct

Meet Your Maker - 3rd pitch
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