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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 16, 2014 - 10:58pm PT
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I did a lot of routes that hardly seemed worth a mention in a guide, though later I regretted that I did not document all of them. Did anyone ever try that slab directly above and to the west of Square Rock? Larry and I climbed that one, and I think I mention it in the guide. It had a hard move on it in one place, as I recall, and Larry was in good form.
One time Larry and I were dropped off in Eldorado, hiked up to the Maiden, climbed it, and it was a hot summer day. We were out of water now but continued north up the rugged ridge to Devil's Thumb. We climbed both east face routes, up that overhang. Then, totally dehydrated we hiked to the top of Bear Mountain and finally down into Bear Canyon. Then to Larry's house in what was Table Mesa then. Big fields where there are houses now, and cows often chased us... But that was quite a summer outing.
Alex mentions Saturday's Folly free. Yes that is a good route. It is a bit contrived, though, in that we made it off limits to get more than an arm length to the right of the classic piton crack up the headwall. That made it a much better route and harder. But you could go right a bit and find it quite a bit easier...
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Aug 19, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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Did anyone ever try that slab directly above and to the west of Square Rock?
More than likely, both Roy and I and many others have been on the hunt to climb all of the Flatirons and that one could be any of these.
The bouldering up there is phenomenal and is a great place to get away from crowds, most of the bouldering is still undocumented and between 3rd classing the east faces and farting around on the overhangs it's probably been tread over by someone.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Overhanging ground up, honey-badger-don't-need-no-hammer-so-he-drills-with-a-rock bump. Who in their right mind decides to proceed in that situation? Big smiles :)
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