Worst 20th century climbing phenomenons

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Demented

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 17, 2004 - 03:05pm PT
You asked for it (ok. maybe you did'nt).
Tori Allen
Grid Bolting
LEO's (i.e. Tools with Guns)
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Nov 17, 2004 - 03:09pm PT
Referring to boulder problems as 'routes.'

DMT
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Nov 17, 2004 - 03:53pm PT
dry-tooling aid routes to claim free ascents
Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Nov 17, 2004 - 03:55pm PT
"dry-tooling aid routes to claim free ascents"

I'll agree with that one.
Ben Wah

Social climber
Nov 17, 2004 - 04:19pm PT
"working" routes that are far beyond your grade; endlessly toproping them and hangdogging them and (oh, abomination!) minitraxioning them, so that on the 50th or 500th try you can say, "yeah, I've led 5.12"
This is not climbing
The Schmutzvink

climber
The WAY past
Nov 17, 2004 - 04:23pm PT
lawyers. lawsuits. land owners afraid of being sued who close access to their crag

land managers who think climbing is too hippy freak wierd and close their crags to climbing
dufas

Trad climber
san francisco
Nov 17, 2004 - 05:03pm PT
yeah, why just the other day I saw a cadre of slimy lawyers in a black Cadillac Escalade with tinted windows driving around looking for crags where climbers were enjoying themselves, just so they could sue the landowner. scumbuckets. from the way they carried on, this, apparently, is fun to them.
funkness

climber
So,Ca.
Nov 17, 2004 - 07:37pm PT
When the "NO CAMPING" signs got put up at the Black Velvet Trailhead.
Brick

Social climber
SF, CA
Nov 17, 2004 - 07:41pm PT
....along the same lines . . ..when they initiated the 2-car per campsite limit out at JT
(that was maybe 78?? Before then, it was a PARTY lemme tell you

oh- and lycra. . . .. .the absolute worst 20th century climbing phenomenon of all, bar none
montgomery wick

Trad climber
Baltoro Glacier, Pakistan
Nov 18, 2004 - 07:20am PT
i am a lawyer working pretty hard and spending my own money to help an lco open crags...so you say there are lawsuits out there related to crags? well damn, i quit and am headed over to the over team

asshat
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Nov 18, 2004 - 01:08pm PT
Crowded Sierra backcountry climbs
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Nov 18, 2004 - 01:12pm PT
worse yet Mick, guided Sierra backcountry climbs. They should stay the hell of things like the 3rd Pillar of Dana, Red Diehedral etc. Also they should keep their noob clients on Horsetail Falls and not clog up Lee Vining canyon.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Nov 18, 2004 - 01:38pm PT
agreed... guiding in LV (bringing the masses to a limited amount of ice)sends a F@#$% you to all other climbers, placing their climber-for-a-living lifestyle over all others. We should have seen it coming when top-rope anchors (bolts)were installed at the top of every single pitch and variation... sad
Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Nov 18, 2004 - 01:46pm PT
"Crowded Sierra backcountry climbs"

This only happens on the "Classics" that are covered in all the guides.

Take the 18 mile hike in to Seven Gables.

The two times I've been on the mountain I never saw another climber.

Try Spring Lake Wall

900+ foot wall with perfect granite and never seen a climber there either.

Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Nov 18, 2004 - 02:46pm PT
Jody:

I am guessing you job allows you to take weekdays off, whichis always an advantage. Unfortunatly some us don't always have that option. When I used to work weekends crwods were never a problem. I don't know why I complain, it is not like I get out climbing at all.

I do agree, hike a little farther. But let me tell you it sucks when you hike for miles only to be thwated by some ass who can't get up a backcountry 5.6 and prevents me from doing the climb. On the other hand running into competent climbers in the backcountry is a real treat.
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Nov 18, 2004 - 02:50pm PT
Ice guides should farm their own ice and leave the public ice to the public.
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
Utah
Nov 18, 2004 - 04:17pm PT
bad tattoos, nose rings and anything patchouli
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
Nov 18, 2004 - 04:20pm PT
ASCA retro bolts on the Aquarian Wall.
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
Nov 18, 2004 - 04:23pm PT
Bolts
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
Nov 18, 2004 - 04:24pm PT
Rap Bolts.

and climbers.
Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Nov 18, 2004 - 04:29pm PT
Mick K, you're right, weekends off are a definite rarity for me, as are holidays.
Ted Shred

climber
deep inside the green room
Nov 18, 2004 - 04:33pm PT
gyms
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Sep 2, 2010 - 09:24pm PT
oh my bump
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Sep 2, 2010 - 09:26pm PT
the loss of many great areas due to access issues and bolting...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 2, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
The worst 20th Century climbing phenomenon? Gotta be aid climbing.
OfBlinkingThings

Boulder climber
Jacksonville, Fl
Sep 2, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
The death of "Ground up"
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Sep 2, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
Pad People.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Sep 2, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
lycra
jghedge

climber
Sep 2, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
"Pad People."

Yes (although technically not a climbing phenomenon)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 2, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
Ghost! shut yer mouf! ;)
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Sep 2, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
Bad tatted, pierced, shirtless, beenie wearing, pad people , milling about like zombies, yelling, "do it dude!" and 'send".
Ugh!
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Sep 2, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
Climbing access-sensitive formations, and bringing a video crew.

I also agree with OfBlinkingThings.
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Sep 2, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
internet forums
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 2, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
^^^

Luckily, ST didn't get going until September 2001.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 2, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
Once again, I think Jstan nails it. I would only add that there are a few that can or have, pulled it off. That climbing means something, but usually at best, it's a part of a bigger, better something.
jstan

climber
Sep 2, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
I deleted my post. Upon looking at it a second time it seemed irrelevant.

Edit:

Sorry about that. I'll try and fix the error.

Many of the things we are doing are caused by a subliminal or conscious expectation that climbing is important in the grand scheme. It isn't. What we do has effects but they are pretty generally located only in the mind of the climber.

If we simply stopped thinking the clouds will part on our command because of something we did on the rock, a lot of good things would follow.

I felt it was irrelevant to say this because I have no expectation good can come from it being said.

My apologies W.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 3, 2010 - 12:37am PT
O.K. great. Leave me hanging, I've had worse. I still think you had a good point, irrelevant as it may seem.
Frogjamm

Trad climber
San Francisco
Sep 3, 2010 - 02:12am PT
20th century? I'd say the nadir was the advent of technical roped climbing.

Oh, and then it went downhill.
Richard

climber
Bend, OR.
Sep 3, 2010 - 06:19am PT
The stick clip
....and stick clipping
Disaster Master

Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
Sep 3, 2010 - 06:36am PT
Can't we all just smoke a bong.... er , I mean get along?

This thread is starting to sound like the late 80's, early 90's in climbing. That, or my family reunion.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Sep 3, 2010 - 07:31am PT
Those dirty Hippies, who was that now.... Bridwell, Long & Westbray? Long hair, drugs, and...fast climbing.

Belay devices, starting with the Stich plate by Salewa.

Crash pads...now I'm tearing at the last few gray hairs on my head.
Paulina

Trad climber
Sep 3, 2010 - 09:28am PT
"Get along": what he said. Also: what's wrong with Tori Allen?
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Sep 3, 2010 - 09:30am PT
Tube socks
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Sep 3, 2010 - 11:27am PT
lycra.
flakyfoont

Trad climber
carsoncity nv
Sep 3, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
summit registers
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Sep 3, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
FFA- first female ascent- does that mean this is first male ascent?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 18, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
Not climbing
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
Red Bull. It's all their fault.
Fletcher

Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
Oct 18, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
Grumpy old men.

Edit: Nah, on second, thought, I love them too. They give me a good laugh. Plus, for some reason, Sophia Loren hangs around them and you can't complain about that!

Eric
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Oct 18, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
LEO's otherwise known as TOOLS
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 18, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Too many climbers!

Jimmy Russells

climber
Oct 18, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
Climbing forums.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 18, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
The commercialization of Everest.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 19, 2012 - 12:17am PT
Saying "proj"
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Oct 19, 2012 - 12:43am PT
Climbing in jeans, unless you're Kauk.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Oct 19, 2012 - 12:58am PT
The sale of Rock & Ice at Whole Foods' checkout stands pretty much sums it all up nicely.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 19, 2012 - 06:12am PT
"The commercialization of Everest"....hands down, IF it were climbing.
MisterE

Social climber
Oct 19, 2012 - 06:15am PT
TPR and Hueco Tanks

Urban Climbing Magazine
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
May 3, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
Tori Allen?
Prod

Trad climber
May 3, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
The internet.

Prod.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 3, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
The sale of Rock & Ice at Whole Foods' checkout stands pretty much sums it all up nicely.
No freakin' way.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
May 3, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
Carabiners
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
May 3, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
.... and ropes
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 3, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
Naked Dulfersitz rappelling down overhanging rock.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
May 3, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
I wasn't the climber my Mom wanted me to be. Ok, so maybe that's second behind Maestri and Cerro Torre...but from MY vantage, not by much.
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
May 3, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
Nice one Randisi! I seem to recall a cartoon of that nature from Tami.


Ms Knight to the White phone pleeze...
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 3, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
I seem to recall a cartoon of that nature from Tami.


Yeah, it's a shame the glue-on bolt hangers never caught on...

Heh

Gerg

Trad climber
Calgary
May 3, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Jack Osbourne climbing El Cap
Fisticuffs on Everest
Climbing in expensive jeans bought at climbing shop
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
May 3, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
The sale of Rock & Ice at Whole Foods' checkout stands pretty much sums it all up nicely.

I think that's only a problem in portland and boulder. here on the dirty side of tahoe we still got globe and enquirer at the checkouts.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 3, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
Me of course.
T H

Social climber
May 3, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
pad stacking
Burch3y

Mountain climber
San Diego
May 3, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
"send" is definitely up there. Toss in those hand jammie things or whatever they are as well.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
May 3, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
Referring to boulder problems as 'routes.'

Direct causal link to the fall of Western civilization.
Onewhowalksonrocks

Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
May 3, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
climbers afraid of falling. ie: sport climbers and boulding only people.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 3, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
climbers afraid of falling. ie: sport climbers and boulding only people.

Weren't climbers afraid of falling for about the first 60 years of the 20th century?

Don't boulderers and sport climbers take all kinds of falls?
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
May 3, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
This is demented.

Should be PHENOMENA.

;)
rSin

climber
calif
May 3, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
photography...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 3, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
Sponsored climbers.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
May 3, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
Ms Knight to the White phone pleeze...


Awwww, sh1t. I'm in the WURST THREAD ?


:-)



Hee hee hee naked dulferzitsin' hee hee hee
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 4, 2013 - 05:17am PT
Speed climbing, gym climbing, naked dulfersitzing on overhanging cliffs FOR FREE JUST CUZ YA LIKE IT.

No dogs allowed signs.
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
May 4, 2013 - 05:44am PT
Tami you may be in the 'wurst' thread, but in my opinion yer the BEST!

If I ever catch the rascal that took my copy of Vicious Lies.. right off the back of the terlet! Geez.
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
May 4, 2013 - 10:27am PT
Mice everywhere!
The Mayor

Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
May 4, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
Slacklining, sponsorship, blogs, gopro videos...
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
May 4, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
go-pro?

that's KNOT 20th century

and I am a proud owner of Go-Pro!

sheesh
The Mayor

Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
May 4, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
Close enough.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
May 4, 2013 - 07:07pm PT

Synthetic material used to make climbing shoes smell like mixed SH!T and VOMIT...

In particular...

SMELL VOLVS...
Tami

Social climber
Canada
May 4, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
If I ever catch the rascal that took my copy of Vicious Lies.. right off the back of the terlet!


The horror, the horror.
:-O
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
May 5, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
Harnesses. Made it too damn safe and comfortable and then everybody wanted to do it!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
May 5, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
SPRAY


unless it's mine
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
May 5, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
Use of the verb "to send" to mean something other than mailing a letter.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 5, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
The sale of Rock & Ice at Whole Foods' checkout stands pretty much sums it all up nicely.


I still think Joe has the winner, because this confirms that climbing has become a mainstream activity for the well to do, fashionably countercultural elite. Lycra is a close second. The climber's misuse of the verb "to send" and the noun "beta" are up there, too.

John
Bad Climber

climber
May 6, 2013 - 06:02am PT
Use of the word "project" as a verb to mean working on a project. Gah!

Oh, "splitter" as an adjective for anything good as in "a splitter day." It's ONLY acceptable--just barely--for describing good cracks.

As a bonus Gah! I'm seeing "blue bird day" all over the place these days.

Kill the cliches! Kill the cliches! Kill 'em dead.


BAd
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
May 6, 2013 - 06:11am PT
Has anyone mentioned the movie Cliffhanger?
telemon01

Trad climber
Montana
May 6, 2013 - 06:28am PT

Vertical Limit?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y83qA10xTKI
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
May 6, 2013 - 07:49am PT
The Internet.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 6, 2013 - 07:51am PT
Excessive spotting.

Spotting for each and every move, no matter how safe or easy.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
May 6, 2013 - 08:06am PT
I bet Hermann Buhl never took his dog climbing.
jabbas

Trad climber
New River, AZ
May 6, 2013 - 08:17am PT
Those colored chalks , cuz of non-climbers freakin out about white spots on the cliffs !!
rSin

Trad climber
calif
May 6, 2013 - 08:32am PT
observers...
deschamps

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
May 6, 2013 - 08:37am PT
The development of the attitude that "climbing used to be better back before [insert offensive climbing development here]" and a lack of realization that those offensive modern developments led to the growth of the sport.
rSin

Trad climber
calif
May 6, 2013 - 08:43am PT
cancer is growth you know...
jopay

climber
so.il
May 6, 2013 - 08:45am PT
Hands down the "daisy chain", and suddenly en-mass everybody had to have one girth hitched to their belay loop, sometimes two of them. We had a guy at Jackson used to walk around with one between his legs clipped to his rear loop, plus he was short, so you get the picture.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
May 6, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
climbers afraid of falling. ie: sport climbers and boulding only people.

I fall a lot more sport climbing than I do on gear routes.

Your point fails.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 6, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Hands down the "daisy chain", and suddenly en-mass everybody had to have one girth hitched to their belay loop, sometimes two of them.
Daisy chains rock, but they clearly have their place. If I'm not a wall though, you'll never see me use one.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
May 6, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
The mentality that tard climbing is superior to boldering or spurts climbing just because grumpy old men can sew their way up a 5.8 crack without risking more than a 3' fall at any given time.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
May 6, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
amen!
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
May 6, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
Hands down the "daisy chain", and suddenly en-mass everybody had to have one girth hitched to their belay loop

AKA

The human funkiness device
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
May 6, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
We had a guy at Jackson used to walk around with one between his legs clipped to his rear loop, plus he was short, so you get the picture.

It would be worse if were his daisy that was short, no?

I really don't get the hate for the "PAS" type slings.

I think it's just as silly (and less safe) to have to thread a sling on the harness every time you have to anchor before a rap.

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 6, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
I hate those little 3' falls.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
May 6, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
grumpy old fuks criticizing Sharma's lack of technique when his feet cut on sh#t they couldn't hold if their lives depended on it (circa 1996).
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
May 6, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
Circa 1996 was twentieth century, but also close to twenty years ago.

Why are we discussing dumb sh#t from at least thirteen years ago?

Are you people stuck in the past?
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
May 6, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
The stupidtaco asked, I answered.

I wish I was stuck in 1996!

Damn, almost 6pm... I wanted to be high by noon and I failed miserably!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
May 6, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
The word "Trad"
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
May 6, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Down climbing climbs for fun....i.e. I just down climbed an 11a on TR boy I'm cool....

Stevo
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
May 6, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
Silent Partner
photo not found
Missing photo ID#294980
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