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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
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HA! Good one Clint!
Yeah, by the time I met Chappy in 77 I think? The n00b was long gone from him.
I thought that Kevin and Mark stepped out of the womb as bad asses...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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Rumor up here is that the Warbler chewed thru his own umbilical cord, once born.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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Then resoled his EB's with it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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Jesus Christ, it is hard these days to even be considered a decent noob! :( I am pretty intimidated by that long lie back corner on The Good Book, which I am hoping to try this weekend! With cams, sticky rubber, lightweight helmet...and some noobs did a FFA of it in approach shoes. Thank god I don't compete at climbing. :)
PS: Pinky Paralysis is a badass climb.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 11, 2014 - 06:02pm PT
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No survival. PA's.
Lol what a visual.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 11, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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That FA/FFA list is outrageous! You guys are so solid.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 11, 2014 - 10:00pm PT
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Good chit Warbler.
Layin' down routes in the morning and strummin' Ripple in the Meadow by the afternoon.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 12, 2014 - 12:01am PT
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When there is no pebble tossed.....
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 12, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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Maybe Alexey will chime in. I think he's done it somewhat recently. Something about the worst descent of his life. The funny things, that now I do not remember why I wrote such harsh words about decent from BB on mountain project page, but probably it was a lot of loose rock on the upper part.
The lower part of the route Giblet and Tiblet + roof alcove 10d pitch can be done as 3 pitch rappel route, and it is clean and high quality. The middle part after that - is easy , not remarkable, but all those 3 pitches can be done in one full stretch of 70m rope with some simul- ~250 feet. After that climb become hard and high quality.
Last 15 feet is even too hard for me and way harder that anything on the Rostrum
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Oct 20, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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Just for the record, both Alexey and Kevin are right - it's a fairly short descent (by virtue of the route being short) - about 45 min to 1 hr, but it's also a bit heinous, since the whole ramp/ ledge system you are walking down is covered with loose leaves and totally overvegetated. A slip in a lot of spots can make the descent to the valley even faster. The descent off Sentinel is a LOT worse requiring 2-2.5 hrs and comparably unpleasant.
There are 2 official mandatory back-to-back rappels off new bolts that require every inch of a 60 m rope, not one and definitely not with a 150 foot rope. There are also 4 more short raps off slings around trees, that are all sprinkled in between slithering down through the bushes. That means you have to uncoil the rope 4 times total (the first mini rap is just to get to the first bolted anchor) and that also sucks a bit. I think I got off route at the very end and the 6th sling is mine, but with the ground visible I didn't care any more to look for the path of least resistance. It looked like it was possible to downclimb at all of those mini raps (easy 5th covered in moss and lots of leaves), but with slings in place and a good probability of a long tumble it didn't seem appealing.
Don't get me started about the route itself. What a grovel...
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