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climbingbuzz
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2007 - 06:01pm PT
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How'd you like it? Hans raves about it in 50 Favs, but I see postings that it's not so fun in this forum.
One rope, or two, for the descent?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Here's a trip report from 2002:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/025ymem.txt
We used 2 ropes on the descent, but it looks like you could do it with just one 60m.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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I don't think it deserves Raves but it's a good route worth doing, maybe more than once if you are the type. Multipitch, shortish approach, no Ultrachoss. Recommend the tidbit variation
Don't take the off-Route corner on the left halfway up!
Used one rope to descend if I recall.
Peace
Karl
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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It may be my favorite route in Yosemite (although I haven't done Rostrum or Astroman yet).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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It used to have some of the black lichen grunginess intrinsic to Lower Rock, but it has nice architecture, good cracks, and up higher, some wild moves in a superb position.
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WBraun
climber
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Karl Baba said: "Don't take the off-Route corner on the left halfway up!"
And if you do you will come to my high point of actually attempting on purpose this path with Scott Cosgrove one day. There will be some nut there with a caribiner attached as we escaped.
To much lichen was the reason for bailing that variation.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Oct 18, 2012 - 03:50am PT
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Such a nice looking arete.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
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Oct 18, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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Absolutely worth doing. Tidbit start is far superior, and some bolted Mecca-style face (Giblet?) directly below will lead you into that for a long and clean first pitch.
Did this one with J, Melissa; neither of us had done it before but I'm guessing he liked it too. I was getting sick and gradually faded to non-leading status as the day wore on.
So a friend of mine climbed the BB as her first route in the Valley! She was 18, met some guy, he said 'you'll be fine' and they fired it. I don't think she led anything though.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 10, 2014 - 01:40am PT
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Beggar's bump.
Hey Clint do you have another link to that TR? I'd love to know more about this one or see some pics. Sounds rad.
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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Mar 10, 2014 - 11:02am PT
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killer climbing with killer ants they eat you......
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Mar 10, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
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A great climb - definitely worth doing.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Mar 10, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
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How does this one do for seeping? Is it usually wet in the spring?
More of a summer route since it catches shade?
Thanks!
 Luke
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 10, 2014 - 01:50pm PT
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Thanks for sorting that out Clint, nice TR! Would still love to see some pics of this one. I heard its like the Rostrum but with a much more adventurous feel.
Would still love to see some pics ;-)
Pics??
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 10, 2014 - 01:58pm PT
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Got some friends who got lost up there. Something about a choice of 3 crack systems. They tried one, didn't go, didn't like the look of the others, bailed.
Must be where Werner is talking about.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 10, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
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Yeah, it's not steep and clean like the Rostrum - there are ledges with trees on them, etc. It's still pretty cool. Summertime is good.
Actually, Ross tried it in mid-June last year and it was too hot.
It was good in May when I did it.
I didn't have a digital camera in 2002 and wasn't taking slides anymore.
Here are some photos of the first pitch (Tidbit start).
crimpergirl, photo by BrassNuts
It's nice fingers until a couple of moves at the end.
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Mar 10, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
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I've climbed Beggars twice and I'd say it feels considerably harder and more serious than the Rostrum. Whereas the Rostrum is largely jamming endurance on perfect splitters, this thing has a lot of bouldery cruxes, awkward jamming, and also some occasional lichen and loose rock to boot. In particular, the 10d alcove pitch and the easier section just above it require some care. I also found the chimney-squeeze at the start of the final pitch to be really difficult. Though that section is short, it's a brutal struggle.
It's definitely a route worth doing, but don't expect anything resembling the Rostrum. And the descent requires some routefinding skills and would be a nightmare in the dark.
Tidbit is an awesome pitch and worth doing by itself, but it's the cleanest pitch on the route and is by far the easiest of the 5.11 rated pitches.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 11, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
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Edit: if i wasn't on this pinner iPhone I'd elaborate
Thanks Kevin i'd love to hear you elaborate sometime. This is some good stuff. Thanks for the photos too Clint.
I had gotten the idea that BB was comparable to the Rostrum last fall when we were sitting in the meadows & wanted to do the rostrum but needed more gear. We were throwing other options around & the climbing ranger (can't remember his name- crusher dude) took some pity on our overwhelmed unguidebooked asses & suggested beggars. He actually talked us out of the DNB & said BB was easier & better? Maybe he meant it would be easier & better for him to rescue us from BB instead of the DNB? I don't know but we farted around too long & climbed 1/2 the rostrum anyways. For some reason BB has been on my mind since, cool to learn a bit more about it.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 11, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
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Maybe Alexey will chime in. I think he's done it somewhat recently. Something about the worst descent of his life.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:37pm PT
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As for difficulty - forty years ago two twenty year old noobs did the FA ground up in a push with EBs, Swamis, no cams, no water no food no bolts It's all pretty cool.
I'm not so sure about the noobs part, though.
By the FA in 1976, you had already done these FAs and FFAs:
Finger Lickin' 5.10d ***
Fun Flake 5.9 .
Pandora's Box 5.10a
Jaw Bone 5.10a *
Sherrie's Crack 5.10c **
Knob Job 5.10b *
The Good Book 5.10d ***
Seaside 5.10c *
The Crucifix 5.12b R *** (it still had a little aid at the time)
Bircheff-Williams 5.11c **
Central Pillar Direct Start 5.12 .
Stoner's Highway 5.10c ***
Quicksilver 5.9 R ***
Freewheelin' 5.10b R ***
Per-Spire-ation 5.10b
The Tube 5.11a **
Eagle Feather 5.10c *
Ugly Duckling 5.10c R *
Hairline 5.11b **
Rock Bottom 5.11d *
Black Primo 5.11b R ***
Plumb Line 5.10d *
Axis 5.10d *
Short but Thick 5.11a *
Pinky Paralysis (full) 5.11c ***
Birds of a Feather 5.7 *
The Dove 5.8 .
Easy Wind 5.9 R
Ramblin' Rose 5.10 .
Ramblin' Rose p3 direct. 5.11c
Columbia Point Direct 5.8 .
Realm of the Lizard King 5.11c
Mother Earth 5.12 A4 **
The Joker 5.10b R
The Thief 5.10d **
Windjammer 5.10c **
Free Blast 5.11b
:-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
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HA! Good one Clint!
Yeah, by the time I met Chappy in 77 I think? The n00b was long gone from him.
I thought that Kevin and Mark stepped out of the womb as bad asses...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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Rumor up here is that the Warbler chewed thru his own umbilical cord, once born.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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Then resoled his EB's with it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:55pm PT
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Jesus Christ, it is hard these days to even be considered a decent noob! :( I am pretty intimidated by that long lie back corner on The Good Book, which I am hoping to try this weekend! With cams, sticky rubber, lightweight helmet...and some noobs did a FFA of it in approach shoes. Thank god I don't compete at climbing. :)
PS: Pinky Paralysis is a badass climb.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 11, 2014 - 06:02pm PT
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No survival. PA's.
Lol what a visual.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 11, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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That FA/FFA list is outrageous! You guys are so solid.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 11, 2014 - 10:00pm PT
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Good chit Warbler.
Layin' down routes in the morning and strummin' Ripple in the Meadow by the afternoon.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 12, 2014 - 12:01am PT
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When there is no pebble tossed.....
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 12, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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Maybe Alexey will chime in. I think he's done it somewhat recently. Something about the worst descent of his life. The funny things, that now I do not remember why I wrote such harsh words about decent from BB on mountain project page, but probably it was a lot of loose rock on the upper part.
The lower part of the route Giblet and Tiblet + roof alcove 10d pitch can be done as 3 pitch rappel route, and it is clean and high quality. The middle part after that - is easy , not remarkable, but all those 3 pitches can be done in one full stretch of 70m rope with some simul- ~250 feet. After that climb become hard and high quality.
Last 15 feet is even too hard for me and way harder that anything on the Rostrum
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Oct 20, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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Just for the record, both Alexey and Kevin are right - it's a fairly short descent (by virtue of the route being short) - about 45 min to 1 hr, but it's also a bit heinous, since the whole ramp/ ledge system you are walking down is covered with loose leaves and totally overvegetated. A slip in a lot of spots can make the descent to the valley even faster. The descent off Sentinel is a LOT worse requiring 2-2.5 hrs and comparably unpleasant.
There are 2 official mandatory back-to-back rappels off new bolts that require every inch of a 60 m rope, not one and definitely not with a 150 foot rope. There are also 4 more short raps off slings around trees, that are all sprinkled in between slithering down through the bushes. That means you have to uncoil the rope 4 times total (the first mini rap is just to get to the first bolted anchor) and that also sucks a bit. I think I got off route at the very end and the 6th sling is mine, but with the ground visible I didn't care any more to look for the path of least resistance. It looked like it was possible to downclimb at all of those mini raps (easy 5th covered in moss and lots of leaves), but with slings in place and a good probability of a long tumble it didn't seem appealing.
Don't get me started about the route itself. What a grovel...
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