Tarbuster, I love the shot of Oz.(Gram Traverse) and Hobbit Book.
Link-up for the everyman.
I do miss that that place.
P.S. I've done the bellyflop four times on Hoodwink's "Roof".
Roger Breedlove, I dig that climb, it's got a great view.
Racing a storm on Great Pumpkin is my greatest Tuolumne memory, although many are fond.
I met Richard Grode at a party. Your a climber?, says I. Will you take me climbing? Yup! We were in Toulumne the following weekend.
Golf Ball route was the first climb of my life. The following day Richard took me up Cathedral Peak and I was HOOKED! Sitting on the summit of Cathedral, the vortex of Toulumne, was a religious experience. That was 17 years ago.
There is no doubt that Tuolumne Meadows is my favorite place on the planet. It is sacred and has been for my whole life. The Soda Springs enclosure and bench just outside of it is the center of the universe.
Last weekend I was at the base of the p3 corner on Oz when my partner noticed some movement in the trees, then THIS sauntered out into the boulders and sat down to stare up at us for five minutes. Totally amazing. The route isn't bad either.
Not sure whether Tuolemne or JTree is my fave,
but having one be in season in Summer and one
be in season in Winter is close to heaven on earth.
I picked up and leafed through the draft plan for
Tuolemne from the grill two weekends ago, and I
get a really strong sense of care from all of those
involved. Really nice job. I noted that all four of
the proposed options list climbing as one of the
recreations that is planned for, and that speaks to
the fact that many of us revere and care for our
favorite meadows. Good vibes...
Thanks all for your wonderful comments. This means a lot to me...
A few TM alpine climbing shots.
On the summit of Dana
On the approach to West Ridge of Conness... We decided to take short cut up a 55 degree slope in trailrunners. It turned out exciting when my climbing partner punctured through the snow bridge at the top. Fortunately, no injuries...
The Vision looks awesome. We just climbed Euphoria on Pennyroyal Arches a few weeks ago; some of the most amazing moderate climbing in Yosemite. I can't wait to go back there and do something more committing.
No, that fellow on Ursula is Le Tarbaby, summer of 1980. I had left my first Stetson, a nice grey felt rendition, at the base of Sweet Jesus, One Toke over the Line, the week before…
The roof moves on Mesmerized:
It starts out fingers, a long reach through a wide hand section to good jams, then a big high step to get around the lip, some sort of 5.11.
The last pitch exit is kind of strange too; I chose a roundabout way that required a point of aid out left to get by a loose block, and when I looked down, I saw the way Dale Bard went, because I saw his bolt (or maybe just the holds, not perfectly sure about the presence of a bolt), which can't be seen from the belay. Essentially, you need to make a committing move up onto a hanging arête.
Summit of Unicorn or Cockscomb, (can't keep them straight, I think that is Cockscomb in the background)
Tim Messick and I had just done an old North Face route,
I don't know if it had been freed before, but it was about 10C, with a bit of a pumpy layback:
>>Summit of Unicorn or Cockscomb, (can't keep them straight, I think that is Cockscomb in the background)
You are on Unicorn. In the background is Echo Ridge (the highest formation) and some Echo Peaks. Cockscom is further to the left and is out of view. Can you give some beta about the old North face route?
Sure Misha, I can render some vague beta, along with a bit of superfluous background.
Bob Ashworth told Tim Messick and me about the route.
Here's Bob Ashworth out in front of the Tuolumne branch of the Yosemite Mountaineering School, circa 1986:
photo by Tom Carter
He just said he knew there was a route that had been done there, that may not have been free climbed, so we consulted The Climber's Guide to the High Sierra (Roper). Here's what it said: “Various short and unaesthetic routes have been done on the north and northwest faces. A three-pitch route, 5.8, A3, has been done on the direct north face.”
So Timmy and I got blasted on good weed and charged (struggled) directly up to said route, which consisted of a rounded flake, mid-face, either left or right facing (sorry). That's what we climbed!
Showing my friends around the neighborhood, ca.1969. We had a hard time finding a dry place to set up camp. Bears were everywhere. I don’t think there was a gate at the campground then, and so we just had to do the best we could getting back there in the snow and mud.
I knew certain among your photo library were bound to appear in this wonderful thread. I kept checking back with a kind of morbid curiosity...on the "lighter side"--Tuolumne is the best place in the world. As a dad now, I look forward to spending time on the beach, each year, with my growing brood (now 3 kids!)
Recent postings notwithstanding, your thread domination continues unabated....Hobbit Book IS the best!
Quite a life in photos! Your slide collection must fill a whole closet, sitting there dusty and dark for years until scanners
and the internet happened along and you could bring them back to the light.
“Upon hearing a conversation such as this one, TM Herbert would probably have said, ‘All right, to your corners. At the sound of the bong you’ll have one minute. Bottles and logs permitted.’ But TM didn’t arrive in Tuolumne until a week or so later. When he did, we set out to do a new route on a dome near Medlicott (the dome is tentatively called The Lamb, and the new route, Lament, III, 5.10). TM is the only climber who is an expert at both whimpering and karate. One section of the new route was 5.10 smallholds climbing, and TM began his mind-blowing moans at the sight of the tiny crystals. After various pops, whistles and screams, he managed the section and calmly claimed that the climb was one of the nicest he had done. Apparently even 5.10 can be kicks in Tuolumne.”
In the original 1969 American Alpine Journal article, for some reason (no fault of LongAgo’s, I’m sure) the magical place is consistently misspelled “Toulumne.” I sanitized the quotation above. But anyway ... I was at an impressionable age, back when I first read this passage by LongAgo, and I immediately added Lament to my list of life’s goals. Like all my other goals at that time I was not ready for such a lead yet. But a few years later I came back, to run out the tiny crystals imagining “mind-blowing ... pops, whistles and screams.”
Quite a stack of dusty old slides to be sure & the dust shows up great when you scan them too!
Yes, Jenny Bergeron; she was a lot of fun, and I'm sure the two of you worked together at the lodge. When I was done with guiding, we'd go climbing, she'd then head off to the lodge and I would go eat at "side hall" remember that? Pretty good fare for the employees I must say.
hey there tarbuster... say, i just dropped in to check out the suberbly lovely and wonderful tuolumne meadows here, as the thread is so named... and say, i get the extra treat of seeing my brother mark here.... great picture... i feel i could be there talking with him for a good chat, by the fire!
say, when did you take that picture.... awwwwwwwww, we were sure a bit younger, then, huh! :)
i am in a hurry, and have some test to take, so i have missed most of these pics... but i'll be back...
thanks so very much for posting that pic, tarbuster...! :)
Oops, I almost fergot, can't bust out old school Meadows shots without a peek at the workout area, just behind the gas station, behind the mountaineering school.
Shelley and Kauk, strutting vertically:
Nice "high country locals" follow up pictures there Nita,
Tom Carter used to have a pair of water skis stashed under our tent cabin and he'd occasionaly get a tow from a car out along the edge of Tenaya to get him up and ski the lake: now that's creative shreddin'!!!
Aww, great thread. That idea of quitting the job before the fall is becoming more and more of a reality... A few weeks in TM this past summer, and no photos to show for it! All the more reason to do it again. (To hell with the climbing, I just want my own photos! Although, "Crying Time Again," again would be nice. Thanks, DRC!)
My Tuolumne Meadows appreciation -has to include....
Ferdinand Castillo. It was on this day that Ferdinand passed-in 1993. I attended his Catholic service in Sonora, and the sweetest moment was when we all sang a rousing version of * Home on the Range*.
Tuolumne Meadows store/grill parking lot, summer 2007:
We got sick of the occasional car/SUV ripping past our morning hangout doing 40 or 50 mph in a 25 zone... so the next time I went back to Reno, I bought a flag. Some of them didn't wave with their thumb, though... Oh, what fun...
This thread has brought back great memories of time spent climbing in Tuolumne. It's nice to combine such great climbing with beautiful scenery.
Here is Eichorn in a storm. When we arrived here I knew we should be able to see it, but we couldn't see anything more than 15' away in the fog and rain. Then a little lift in the fog and WOW! Quite an experience.
These next two photos were taken within 5 minutes of each other. This 2 day storm started clearing right at sunset. Perfect timing! The first photo is a re-post.
Probably my first trip to the meadows. I remember being seated on the end of one of those way-bent over lodgepoles and being sprung up and down like a bucking bronco. I also remember the "bath" in the river, the pancakes at the grill, popsicles at the store, fizzies with Soda Springs water, and the smell of the old family oiled canvas tent.
West Farthing Wall, late Saturday afternoon (10/16)
Things are not looking good for more climbing days in the Meadows this year. I drove up to the pass today, thinking that I might get a hike in, but it was snowing and nasty out. Go away, bad weather!!!!!!!
Tuolumne will always hold a special place in my heart. Before this summer, I had never done any climbing that involved rock shoes - I had done my share of scrambling up peaks, but no bouldering, no roped climbs or anything like that. I had always wanted to try, but never knew anyone or where to start.
This July I was invited to camp in TM. My sister's friend is up there every summer camping and climbing and I was told to bring shoes and I'd get to try it out.
After a few days of hiking and doing my own thing, I finally found someone willing to take my beginner ass on some routes. With a borrowed harness, grigri and ATC, we headed for DAFF. West Crack had parties on it, so we did the two bolted face routes while waiting. In hindsight, my leader should have showed me a bit more beta on lowering with the grigri, but everything went well and we also did the first pitch of West Crack, then rapped down instead of trailing parties up farther (and the start of the second pitch looked a bit intimidating for a first day climber). One more pitch on Low Profile dome and I was done for the day. A couple days later I was able to latch on and follow in a party of three up Lunar Leap on Lembert Dome.
I was hooked.
Got home and ordered my own harness, chalk bag, 2 lockers and ATC.
Went back up by myself a few weeks later, as there were still friends camping. Highlights of that trip were West Country, Cooke Book and Phoebos! Got home and ordered a proper belay biner, personal anchor, nut tool and a couple more biners.
Made a final trip labor day weekend and drug my g/f along - she liked climbing more than hiking b/c the approaches were much shorter than my all day hikes I would drag her on. She borrowed some shoes and made it up the bunny slopes before we left!
I've now got enough gear to setup top ropes around here (santa barbara) and we're thinking of Jtree for halloween now! TM and Jtree before stepping foot in a gym sounds great to me ;-)
One trip and I'm ruined. New surfboard money has gone into climbing gear for now, but it is something that I see myself doing alongside surfing for the rest of my life.
enough with the words, here's a photo essay:
Cleaning on my last pitch of my first day of climbing
Hiked Mt Dana one afternoon - amazing summit views
2nd pitch of Lunar Leap - me spotting the leader on the 'leap' move
My final night one trip, I had to get out and watch the stars one more time
Push It, Drug Dome
Cragging out at Drug Dome - all to ourselves on a holiday weekend
Hey Ed, great icy shot of Tenaya Lake! Yeah, I'd even take some stink-buggin right now, jonesin to get out and do SOMETHING! 3.5 more weeks and I can start pulling on easy plastic routes... P.S. I'll be out in San Jose area on Biz Jan 24-26 - how far away are you?
My brother scanned a bunch of old family slides from our family camping trips in the early 60s. My dad and uncle made a Cathedral Range traverse supposedly from Cathedral to Unicorn. Here are some of the pictures of the trip, plus a few others. This summer will be the 50-year anniversary of that traverse: 1961 - 2011.
Credit: Dick Brown
Cathedral Rage traverse, ca. 1962. I see they brought a rope!
These pics made my day. I missed Eds pics when he posted. Really nice! Thanks Beth, Ed, and Tom! TM was certainly different this past summer. Lots of late snow. I hadn't seen it so snowy that late before. I thought that we were heading towards a similar year this year, what with so much snow coming over Christmas, but now its been mostly sunny for a month. So who knows what it will be like, except that whatever it is like, TM is always beautiful. Thanks again.
One of my best days last season was on Cooke Book. Did the original start (yes!) weather was absolutely perfect and there wasn't anyone behind us. We stopped on the big ledge at the top of p 2 and chilled for a bit. Went over and did Aqua Knobby after that. Stellar day, possibly the best of 2010.
good snow pack! good for ca and good for this years boating season!
self portrait.solo trip, from yosemite to mono lake to visit friends and crag at whitney portal. this shot is on the way back home, just inside the park, saw some red eyed tarmagens cruising around in the snow, which seemed quite odd at the time!
I have photos here somewhere of one of the best days climbing I ever had, at the Meadows.
Partner and I were up in the meadows for about 10 days. On our last day there, we climbed lucky streaks, then ran over to do Oz, then had enough day left to do the Regular route as a simul-climb. No falls from either of us. By that point in the day, the crowds at the base were gone, so we didn't have to try and pass anyone on the hard part. We'd planned on using regular route as our warm up for the day, but that was insanity with it being a Sunday. 3 parties of 2 waiting around at the base, and a party of 3 inching their way through pitch #1. Running around to LS was the right move, even though it was shady and cold.
We topped out on Regular Route (whole thing took 50 minutes), ran down and still had enough time to jet over to Phobos / Demios cliff. But after that hike and all that came before it, with only an hour or so of daylight left, we opted to just sit around up there, dozing peacefully in the late day ambiance.
I feel this swell of excitement and gratitude for being able to see these pictures and reconnect with this incomparable place. Many of the slab routes are too spicy for me, but I've had my share of deep experiences in the Meadows. A few years ago, I finally got to do 3rd Pillar--a dream come true.
I have to wait though. But the thought of getting out there stirs the embers in my belly. I really dig that place. Probably my favorite place to climb in the world. #1 on the list. Shuteye is a close second though. But after those two, the gap widens.
Climbed West Crack for the first time a couple of days ago. Never went up there cause I hate crowds. What an awesome route. Partner and I arrived at 11:00 a.m. on Saturday and were the only ones there! About fifty parties showed up minutes after our arrival but we got going and never saw anyone again. So fun.
Was going through a bunch of my photos and noticed this one, of an obscure crag in Tuolumne – Proctology Wall. I haven’t climbed here but wandered by one day on a geology hike. Figured I’d post it because there isn’t a photo in the Reid/Falkenstein guide. Refer to page 205 in the 4th edition of the Reid (Falcon) guide for the topo and approach info… if you actually want to climb here. It’s no surprise that Norman Boles was involved in the FA of these routes, based on the names. He and Brian Bennett just can’t help being crude when it comes to route names. Remember that one Valley route name about Fresno??? Leave it to Bennett to think of such things…
for whatever reason, I didn't have much going on in Tuolumne Meadows this year... sad to let a season go by without lots of memories... but my very best effort is shaping up to be an FA I did with Eric around and about that region... a 4 pitch climb with three pitches of 5.10...
Eric had called and asked "what are you up for?" and I replied "anything", he asked me that three more times and I replied the same... I could tell he was psyched for a great project, which we did...
(I'm not supposed to reveal anything about this... but I'm horrible, I know, but don't ask where... I won't tell)
It was the best of the all to brief season for me...
I had a great trip this season and saw that Jay Wood posted a few photos from it - I was lucky enough to have him gun for me on some great routes...
American Wet Dream, 4th pitch belay
Credit: Jay Wood
Letting him 'use' my rack, hoping to get some of the shine off...
Jay Wood with a n00b rack
but he barely placed a thing on Piss Easy...
Following on Piss Easy
Glad I found a route up there I was comfortable to lead...
Nearing the anchor on Goldmember
Another awesome route to follow this trip...
Such a great place and I'm ever grateful that the friendships I've made up there continue on to other locales all year round!
(edit)I just reviewed my post from last Oct and Jay Wood was the very next poster and someone I would later meet and climb with in Jtree in March of this year and TM in August! The small world of climbers.
2 long weekends this month and one more coming up! Can't get enough...
...and the climbing was great too - just didn't take any pics of it! From a full-moon 3-man simul of Cathedral (that included J Wood!) to flailing on Do or Fly and leading some slabby runouts - it just feels so awesome being up there...
Wow. It makes me very, very happy to see this thread on the front page again. Gets me all sentimental 'n such...
Roy, I remember looking through your photos on THIS VERY THREAD four years ago, during the last semester of my undergrad at Appalachian State in 2008. The lifestyle, climbs, and characters your photos exposed made me shift my priorities from grad school/career search to calling up the DNC and hunting for a job in the Meadows (great priorities, I know). I couldn't have been more excited when I got called back by the manager of the Tuolumne Meadows Lodge and offered a job up there.
I remember thinking of how I would get the opportunity to join in my own part of the tradition that your photos and stories revealed.
Which is sort of what happened over the course of the next three summers. I worked at the TML, Mono Market, and just dirtbagged it in the Meadows. The relationships I developed, routes I climbed, and all forms of experiences had could fill at least a volume. Someone said earlier on this thread that the Meadows is "heaven on earth" and I couldn't agree more.
My roommate and good friend Eric topping out the Third Pillar, which happened to be his first 5.10 onsight ever. Ironically, an older mentor of mine (Norm Larson from Wilson, WY) had climbed this thing just in front of us and snapped this photo of a relieved Eric just as he topped out.
A stylish Eric on a pre-work ascent of On the Lamb, a pretty regular occurrence:
Obligatory Cottage Dome photo
Rewarded by an incredible sunset after the classic Oz-Gram-Hobbit Book link
Me stoked on Handbook, a pretty underappreciated Meadows classic crack.
Common afternoon occurrence
Behind the TML with some coworkers, witnessing the incredible beauty
in 2001, on top of my first climb out west... we had no idea how to climb trad, so we shamelessly went to the only bolted climbs we knew of... but little did i know that on pywiack, fishing for those bolts is easier said than done.
so odd to look back... now i have a wife, a kid, a degree, a real job, a rack! ...oh, and of course, bills each month that are bigger than my annual salary used to be
we've been climbing together a long time... occasionally one or the other of us forgets to bring a head, but the bodies still know what to do... makes for a contemplative day pulling on knobs (for the one that remembered to bring their head along)...
That old shot of the Meadows credited to Stubbs.....do you know if he still hangs on the east side in the summers? Lost contact with him a few years back and would like to stop in on him if he stills comes out in the summers.
Last time I climbed was in JTree about 6 months ago, remembering Woody. His daughter, Tia, led Sexy Grandma and I made it up the rock just cause I needed to honor Woody and the name of the climb. :D
Today my son in law, Dave, and I were ready to do Darth Vader and Golfers Route but weather way hot and we didn't have the right gear so we retreated to Western Front. It was cooler but crowded. We chilled and hung around. I did Touch of Grey which, like Sexy Grandma, was right up my happy challenge line.
I made it. Took me two tries to get off the ground and then I came off once up where the gold slippery rock challenged. (Don't go that way). It was a blast, made it to the anchor and the endorphins told me I need to work my core and climb more.
LIFE: it is good and we need to keep after it. Love to all yo Campfire Taco Heads. C-YA at the Facelift.